Controversial Chip & Poker Opinions (89 Viewers)

We're still T5 people. When I got my newest tourney set I told everyone I can start with T25s or 100s and change the structures and the supermajority of our players were like, "Why?" So we kept it.
So I ask, why start at 5,000 when you can lopp off the ,000 and start at 5. You do that and this photo accurately depicts our set.
 
there are a chunk of people out there that use 50c as their fracs.
That’s true. But since it’s a less efficient chip with a $1 in play, and since the quarter is more flexible, the quarter has always been a popular and probably preferred option.
No sarcasm; I found your statement controversial in the spirit of this thread.
 
10x between denominations is the new 4 or 5x. Instead of .25/.25, we should all play .10/.20 like the wynn $10/$20 game. No 25s, 50s or 500s, and mOaR 10s and 100s:

View attachment 1694610
that is the way it should always have been.

1,10,100,1,000,10,000,100,000

I hate to say it as a chipper - but the $2,$3,$5, $20, $500, $5,000, etc. should not bee needed...

Flame away on me ...as the first person who will say, to bet $99 I need 9 $10's and 9 $1's???that is too many chips. Well if you are a chipper then 18 beautiful chips should be preferred. but who bets $99 - really. (the old way - if players are using twentyfives- is 3 twenty fives, then 4 fives, and 4 ones - using 11 - or using 19 fives and 4 ones totaling 23 chips-moar chips than the dec 10 system)

Imagine all those other value chips not being used. And the ease to count stacks if all were 10 based numbers - no more calculating how many fives are needed then counting twenty fives, etc. Seems simpler - it might just be simplier to me - but I have hosted poker games using this method, it seems better to me, but what do I know...
 
Hey now, when I joined I asked the forum about doing 10c/50 vs 5c/25c and that seemed to ruffle a few feathers lol. I was told to "stop trying to reinvent the wheel" and "why are we trying to fix something that isn't broken?" etc, so surely it's a little controversial (but maybe sentiments have changed since).


So cool!


TLDR for my response below: Starting with T500's is more efficient for a tournament breakdown because you need fewer T500 chips in play which will soon be back in the case at the first colour up anyway.


But @JustinInMN already covered one of the main reasons being that since you only ever need one T500 chip per bet, you can get away with having fewer T500's in starting stacks, and when the first colour up comes around you don't lose ~35% of the chips on the table. (ex: T5 base, 2000 starting stack of 10/10/7/2 removes 35% of chips within the first hour of play, where as a T500 base, 125,000 starting stack of 6/12/12/2 only removes ~19% of chips). Most people love having moar chips, and this helps maintain that in a fairly efficient way.

But to expand further on this...there is a positive trade off to having fewer of the smallest chip in a starting stack. If you think about the standard T5 stack needing 10/10/7/x or a T500 needing 10/10/7/x VS a T500 using 6/12/12/x you are effectively sacrificing the smallest and least valuable chip (the same chip that is only used for 25% of the total gameplay then tossed back into a case) to gain extra, more valuable chips that are used much later on or even to the end of a game. You convert those 4 measly T500 chips into two extra T1K and five extra T5K's which are the early and late workhorse chips, respectively, giving more useful betting chips and having less change making scenarios after the first break when the game is in full swing.

And a much less important reason for not starting at T1000 (or T5000) is that when people make bets or count their stacks they don't use the word "thousand" very often. When everyone knows the context that each chip is already in the thousands they just drop the word and say "3" or "I'll bet 50" instead. Having a T1K or a T5K base tournament is the same as a T1 or T5 base but you've just added on the word thousand for funsies (which is perfectly valid for novelty, especially when you have @cpac54 Rio set :wow:, but not for a standard tournament, in my opinion). When doing a T500 base set you start the tournament betting in "hundreds" (ie 15-hundred, 85-hundred etc) and then switch into betting thousands later on (5-thousand, 45-thousand etc), so in a way the denominations actually matter a little more and serve more of a purpose.
I love my .10/.50/2/10/50 set for some .10/.10 $10 action or a .10/.20 $20 buy-in game. And yes, we did get the 50s in there once or twice (custom DDLM plaques). I think it’s a solid set, a little different, and very nice to have around for certain occasions
 
If you are someone that buys and sells poker racks or sets even occasionally, go buy 20, 40, 100 boxes from Spinettis or Justin or someone and place them in a closet. When you sell chips, ship them in the d*mn boxes.

View attachment 1694609

*this has been your daily Barrie vs clouds PSA*
My wife’s attorney is giving me a raft of shit about the volume of warnecke boxes they just discovered in my basement. I was false accused of storing garbage and ordered to throw them away. It’s causing an issue.
 
My wife’s attorney is giving me a raft of shit about the volume of warnecke boxes they just discovered in my basement. I was false accused of storing garbage and ordered to throw them away. It’s causing an issue.
Explain to them you’re one of 5 people keeping PCF from delving into the despairs of chips never being shipped with warnecke again.

IMG_9596.gif
 
Flame away on me ...as the first person who will say, to bet $99 I need 9 $10's and 9 $1's???that is too many chips.
No. I make that bet with net zero chips.

I put in a $100 chip and I take back a $1 chip. I have the same number of chips now as I started and that $99 bet only took one chip.
 
My wife’s attorney is giving me a raft of shit about the volume of warnecke boxes they just discovered in my basement. I was false accused of storing garbage and ordered to throw them away. It’s causing an issue.
Dear God you live in a house like mine it sounds like. If you're not wearing it, holding it, eating off it or it has your name on it, it's eligible for being thrown away.
 
Dear God you live in a house like mine it sounds like. If you're not wearing it, holding it, eating off it or it has your name on it, it's eligible for being thrown away.
I couldn't be further from that reality.

I have stuff from my move that I have yet to unpack.

Not my most recent move, the move I made in 1998. I don't know what's in there, but when I "get around to it" it's going to be like an archeological dig on my own life.
 
Don’t want to derail so edited my response in the thread and will just paste here instead. I don’t think it’s controversial, but it must be since there’s literally not been 1 socially engineered standard procedure implemented since I’ve been here.

This was in response to:
One of the scary things is all the people milling and killing and then change direction and decide to sell. I wish people put more thought into their direction before doing something that cannot be undone.

You guys had so many YEARS to figure that out.

Nobody can give me “oh the hobby” nonsense when this is the site we get.

How hard was it to set a standard, ie if buying to murder, name your price and people get a small window to match.

If murdering, best practice to post the thread and no comments needed just thumbs up/down. You can murder either way, but if the feedback was overwhelmingly to not do so, do it at your own peril (may have a bit more difficult time in classifieds after that).

There’s a million diff routes.

But we don’t have standards for anything, a membership that obviously couldn’t care less as a whole, and administration that prefers a completely opaque and buyer/seller beware marketplace.

I’d bet the overwhelming % of pcfers agree on prob 95%+ of which chips should or shouldn’t be murdered.
 
Don’t want to derail so edited my response in the thread and will just paste here instead. I don’t think it’s controversial, but it must be since there’s literally not been 1 socially engineered standard procedure implemented since I’ve been here.

This was in response to:


You guys had so many YEARS to figure that out.

Nobody can give me “oh the hobby” nonsense when this is the site we get.

How hard was it to set a standard, ie if buying to murder, name your price and people get a small window to match.

If murdering, best practice to post the thread and no comments needed just thumbs up/down. You can murder either way, but if the feedback was overwhelmingly to not do so, do it at your own peril (may have a bit more difficult time in classifieds after that).

There’s a million diff routes.

But we don’t have standards for anything, a membership that obviously couldn’t care less as a whole, and administration that prefers a completely opaque and buyer/seller beware marketplace.

I’d bet the overwhelming % of pcfers agree on prob 95%+ of which chips should or shouldn’t be murdered.
You should change your username to BernieJ3
 
Bob has a one of a kind set. Short one rack of $X.

A rack is found and put up for sale. Joe dibs before Bob sees it to murder for a mixed set.

Of course Joe can murder it? I’m all for people doing what they want. I’ve murdered various racks people refuse to murder, like the green/yellow half pies. Should Joe murder it? Obviously not.
People can murder whatever chips they want, albeit it may be stupid, but we don’t need a governor body to worry about it
I’m not suggesting a governing body. I’m suggesting common sense and best business practices.

Like…we still haven’t asked people to stop editing classified threads erasing previous prices when “discounting”? Lmao okay. In the last week we’ve had 3 different new threads/issues of pcfers stealing from pcfers.

I’m just saying, if we’re going full wild Wild West, then let’s do it all the way no half measures.

IMG_9648.gif
 
I’m not even complaining. It’s more so an eye roll from the sidelines.

But I agree, sometimes we (I) need to stop complaining and start looking at the silver lining.

We have member rewards now, and Danny and Okku representing set collectors at chip shows and with other chip groups! Yay.
 
Don’t want to derail so edited my response in the thread and will just paste here instead. I don’t think it’s controversial, but it must be since there’s literally not been 1 socially engineered standard procedure implemented since I’ve been here.

This was in response to:


You guys had so many YEARS to figure that out.

Nobody can give me “oh the hobby” nonsense when this is the site we get.

How hard was it to set a standard, ie if buying to murder, name your price and people get a small window to match.

If murdering, best practice to post the thread and no comments needed just thumbs up/down. You can murder either way, but if the feedback was overwhelmingly to not do so, do it at your own peril (may have a bit more difficult time in classifieds after that).

There’s a million diff routes.

But we don’t have standards for anything, a membership that obviously couldn’t care less as a whole, and administration that prefers a completely opaque and buyer/seller beware marketplace.

I’d bet the overwhelming % of pcfers agree on prob 95%+ of which chips should or shouldn’t be murdered.

People can murder whatever chips they want, albeit it may be stupid, but we don’t need a governor body to worry about it

Bob has a one of a kind set. Short one rack of $X.

A rack is found and put up for sale. Joe dibs before Bob sees it to murder for a mixed set.

Of course Joe can murder it? I’m all for people doing what they want. I’ve murdered various racks people refuse to murder, like the green/yellow half pies. Should Joe murder it? Obviously not.

I’m not suggesting a governing body. I’m suggesting common sense and best business practices.

Like…we still haven’t asked people to stop editing classified threads erasing previous prices when “discounting”? Lmao okay. In the last week we’ve had 3 different new threads/issues of pcfers stealing from pcfers.

I’m just saying, if we’re going full wild Wild West, then let’s do it all the way no half measures.

View attachment 1695363

I’m not even complaining. It’s more so an eye roll from the sidelines.

But I agree, sometimes we (I) need to stop complaining and start looking at the silver lining.

We have member rewards now, and Danny and Okku representing set collectors at chip shows and with other chip groups! Yay.
 
A milled chip is never worth more than it was in its original state, in fact much less.

Labeled chips should not be more desired than inlaid or hotstamped chips.
 
A milled chip is never worth more than it was in its original state, in fact much less.

Labeled chips should not be more desired than inlaid or hotstamped chips.
I’m with you there. I always say I came to this site because I wanted chips with numbers on them. But there was a second reason - I didn’t want chips with stickers that pop off.
To be fair, obviously the kind of labels we get from gear and others have far better adhesives than the cheap stickers on cheap WPT plastics. So good quality labels are not the worst thing in the world. But they’re also not inlays.
 
I’m with you there. I always say I came to this site because I wanted chips with numbers on them. But there was a second reason - I didn’t want chips with stickers that pop off.
To be fair, obviously the kind of labels we get from gear and others have far better adhesives than the cheap stickers on cheap WPT plastics. So good quality labels are not the worst thing in the world. But they’re also not inlays.
legit question. Can you tell a difference if they’re the exact same type and design?

Like if they look identical, feel identical, no spinners or issues? What’s the way to tell then? Could you tell by sound? Or do we have to peel it off to know?
 
A milled chip is never worth more than it was in its original state, in fact much less.

Labeled chips should not be more desired than inlaid or hotstamped chips.
The exception to this rule would be when the chip is a highly sought after chip to be milled and put into a custom set. Milling takes time and costs to be performed and as long as it's done well I'd be willing to pay a bit more than the market value of the original chip if I had an ideal project for it.
 
legit question. Can you tell a difference if they’re the exact same type and design?

Like if they look identical, feel identical, no spinners or issues? What’s the way to tell then? Could you tell by sound? Or do we have to peel it off to know?
Yes, you can tell the difference between an inlay and a label. In play it's not noticable but it is when you look closer.
 
legit question. Can you tell a difference if they’re the exact same type and design?

Like if they look identical, feel identical, no spinners or issues? What’s the way to tell then? Could you tell by sound? Or do we have to peel it off to know?
do you even chip? i wish i couldnt tell the difference.
 
legit question. Can you tell a difference if they’re the exact same type and design?

Like if they look identical, feel identical, no spinners or issues? What’s the way to tell then? Could you tell by sound? Or do we have to peel it off to know?
Pretty much yes. I can always tell visually when a chip is milled, and many of them without close inspection.
One of my silly pet peeves are the textured labels from Gear. I don't mean to trash the product, because people seem to like them; they're just not for me. The feel is noticeably different than paulson textured inlays. And you can even see the difference in the textures, visually. In a vacuum, I'd probably like them. But I'm not in a vacuum and I can't help but compare them to paulson textured inlays.
 
Pretty much yes. I can always tell visually when a chip is milled, and many of them without close inspection.
One of my silly pet peeves are the textured labels from Gear. I don't mean to trash the product, because people seem to like them; they're just not for me. The feel is noticeably different than paulson textured inlays. And you can even see the difference in the textures, visually. In a vacuum, I'd probably like them. But I'm not in a vacuum and I can't help but compare them to paulson textured inlays.
Ty for actually answering the question. Makes sense.
 

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