Cash Game Looking for Feedback on a Micro‑Stakes Cash Game Setup (1 Viewer)

Sap

Pair
Joined
Mar 14, 2023
Messages
148
Reaction score
334
Rewards
105
Location
Cincy / Indy
My home group has only played tournaments so far ($20–$50 buy‑ins), but I think it would be fun to introduce a cash table either running alongside the tourney or as a separate event. I’d like to keep the stakes similar and possibly increase them gradually over time.

I’ve been reading the Beginner's Guide to Mapping out a Cash Game, which was very helpful. Based on that, I see two possible set configurations that could accommodate both 0.05/0.10 and 0.10/0.25 blinds if we decide to raise stakes later.

Here’s what I’m considering (assuming 10 players, each with one starting stack and up to two rebuys):

1765656103663.webp


These are the two options I saw in the Beginner's Forum:

1765656184047.webp


Questions I’m Still Unsure About

1) Is 2 rebuys per person reasonable?

2) Are large denominations fine for rebuys (4 $5s for a $20 rebuy)

3) I’ve seen different rules, some use a fixed max rebuy ($20), while others allow up to half the largest stack. Would sticking with a flat $20 rebuy be okay?

4) Should there be any forced cash-out once a player accumulates a large stack? For example if one person has $60+ (600BBs) should they have to go down to $60? or is that not a good idea? I just wouldn't want them bullying and putting people all in.

I’m comfortable running tournaments, but cash games are new territory for me, so I’d appreciate any advice or considerations I might be missing. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
This is my opinion and a lot depends on your players and how the dynamic of your game develops over time.

2 rebuys per person is reasonable from a chip planning perspective as not all players will be rebuying, if someone is rebuying then someone is winning. 😉

Once you have enough of your workhorse chips in play, work your way up through the larger denominations for rebuys. They can make change from the other players..

Capped or match the big stack, etc. for rebuys is up to you based on your game. Based on your question on "forced cashout", which I would never do in a cash game because it takes away the opportunity for someone who is down $$ for the night the chance to win their $$ back, it sounds like you may have a concern about large stacks "bullying" smaller stacks. If that's the case then a more liberal top-off or rebuy rule might be in order.. Again, it's really dependent on the dynamics of your game and your players.

Hope this helps..
 
This is my opinion and a lot depends on your players and how the dynamic of your game develops over time.

2 rebuys per person is reasonable from a chip planning perspective as not all players will be rebuying, if someone is rebuying then someone is winning. 😉

Once you have enough of your workhorse chips in play, work your way up through the larger denominations for rebuys. They can make change from the other players..

Capped or match the big stack, etc. for rebuys is up to you based on your game. Based on your question on "forced cashout", which I would never do in a cash game because it takes away the opportunity for someone who is down $$ for the night the chance to win their $$ back, it sounds like you may have a concern about large stacks "bullying" smaller stacks. If that's the case then a more liberal top-off or rebuy rule might be in order.. Again, it's really dependent on the dynamics of your game and your players.

Hope this helps..
Helps plenty, thank you. Sounds like don’t ever require a forced cash-out (I may be thinking too heavily in terms of tournament poker).

Then depending on how the games play out, change the rebuy requirement to be more liberal if needed.
 
Agree with soccerdad - it's generally poor form to take money off the table in a cash game after a big pot, without some notice before leaving for the night, etc.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sap
  • Rebuys: the bigger you allow rebuys to be, the more advantage a skilled player will have, and the faster the weaker players will lose. You definitely want to limit rebuys to half the big stack or smaller.
  • Forced Cash Out: This is a bad idea. One of the reasons most people play poker is the dream of a big stack. It's the whole point. :) And adapting your play with a big stack at the table is part of the fun. Also, if I just lost a big pot, and you force the winner to take my money off the table, I'd be pissed.
One more idea, based on personal experience: get rid of the small blind in microstakes (ie, have two 10c blinds, rather than 5c/10c). No one folds for 5c at these stakes, and having an extra rack of your workhorse chip will be so much more useful, and extend the life of your set. I was very relieved when I finally convinced my crew to get rid of the "small blind" denom - it was a pain in the ass to bring, count out, include in rebuys, and cash out at the end of the night, for zero benefit.
 
  • Rebuys: the bigger you allow rebuys to be, the more advantage a skilled player will have, and the faster the weaker players will lose. You definitely want to limit rebuys to half the big stack or smaller.
  • Forced Cash Out: This is a bad idea. One of the reasons most people play poker is the dream of a big stack. It's the whole point. :) And adapting your play with a big stack at the table is part of the fun. Also, if I just lost a big pot, and you force the winner to take my money off the table, I'd be pissed.
One more idea, based on personal experience: get rid of the small blind in microstakes (ie, have two 10c blinds, rather than 5c/10c). No one folds for 5c at these stakes, and having an extra rack of your workhorse chip will be so much more useful, and extend the life of your set. I was very relieved when I finally convinced my crew to get rid of the "small blind" denom - it was a pain in the ass to bring, count out, include in rebuys, and cash out at the end of the night, for zero benefit.

So you are recommending a .10/.10 and the smallest denom being .10 rather than .05 for the set?
 
Hi, I planned for a very similar set when I started here. I ended up getting 100 x .05c with my set for my $20 buy in game. Found out quickly that my group preferred playing .25/.50 even for the small $20 buy in. We even tried .25/.25 too. Losers will usually buy in two or three times. I know every game is different, but just saying the .05c chips might not be worth it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sap
Hi, I planned for a very similar set when I started here. I ended up getting 100 x .05c with my set for my $20 buy in game. Found out quickly that my group preferred playing .25/.50 even for the small $20 buy in. We even tried .25/.25 too. Losers will usually buy in two or three times. I know every game is different, but just saying the .05c chips might not be worth it.

Thanks for these references. Helpful and a condensed version of what I was trying to make myself.

The more I research, the more I see the same sentiment that .05 is not really used. I'll have to think more about it, I just don't want anyone losing too much once we start, but also don't want to get 200 .05s just for them to never be used after one sessions.
 
Thanks for these references. Helpful and a condensed version of what I was trying to make myself.

The more I research, the more I see the same sentiment that .05 is not really used. I'll have to think more about it, I just don't want anyone losing too much once we start, but also don't want to get 200 .05s just for them to never be used after one sessions.
Yes, I'm recommending just having two big blinds at microstakes - the small blind really becomes meaningless, and absolutely no one you want playing in your game cares at all about a nickel either way. Use that extra rack to buy more dollars and future proof.

I'd also suggest you only need 1 rack of fracs (your smallest denomination). I made the same mistake with my first set (having two), and quickly regretted it. It's a bunch of extra chips I don't need - a healthy cash game's bankroll will grow rapidly through the night, increasing stacks and making the frac chip nothing more than for blinds.

If you do keep it to two racks, consider having the frac be non-denominational, so it can become a quarter or 50c in the future if you want to raise stakes.
 
Yes, I'm recommending just having two big blinds at microstakes - the small blind really becomes meaningless, and absolutely no one you want playing in your game cares at all about a nickel either way. Use that extra rack to buy more dollars and future proof.

I'd also suggest you only need 1 rack of fracs (your smallest denomination). I made the same mistake with my first set (having two), and quickly regretted it. It's a bunch of extra chips I don't need - a healthy cash game's bankroll will grow rapidly through the night, increasing stacks and making the frac chip nothing more than for blinds.

If you do keep it to two racks, consider having the frac be non-denominational, so it can become a quarter or 50c in the future if you want to raise stakes.

Yea the .05 does seem quite meaningless. I'm the cheapest in the group, mostly to make sure no one is miserable losing $100s in a night.

Good Ideas. I'm going to look at a breakdown with only 1 rack of the smallest denom (.05 or .10) and that should be plenty for starting. If we move on from it, totally doable.
 
Thoughts:

- match (half, etc.) the stack is a huge benefit to experienced players, and could contribute to losing recreational players in the long run.

- I set expectations for players to bring 3 buy ins minimum for the night, and they should expect to win/lose 1 or 2 of them.

- I rarely use my .05 chips from r .05/.10. I only have 1 rack of them and wouldn't need more.

- a buy in range will appeal to more players. E.g .25/.25 with a buy in between $20 (80 bbs) and $40 (160bbs).
 
  • Like
Reactions: Sap

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom