First try designing (CPC) (1 Viewer)

[HelloGamer2]

This 6 piece cash chipset is my first attempt at designing a somewhat intuitive (to me) color progression and edge progression set.

Goes in order: 25¢ $1 $5 $25 $100 $500

Classic white for $1 and black for $100 though I’m not sure if I want red to be $5 or $25

The edge spot progression(viewed from the side) goes like this:

Basic Tier:
Solid 3 small-size
Hollow 2 tiny-size

—
Mid Tier:
Solid 3 medium-size
Hollow 3 tiny-size

—
Fancy Tier:
Solid 3 medium-size
Hollow 6 tiny-size

Please let me know any thoughts or improvements.

 

[Cratty]

Have any thoughts on inlay or an inital design idea? Shaped?

Personally I usually find myself designing both chip and inlay together, and would be good to know what you're thinking there if anything

 

[HelloGamer2]

Right good point, I’m feeling like a pure white background with something random in the center would be cool. I really like “Atlantic Club” from CPC

 

[warma]

What stakes do you play? What buy-in? How much is on the table?

 

[HelloGamer2]

What stakes do you play? What buy-in? How much is on the table?

Going to be playing alot of 10¢/20¢ and 25¢/50¢

Occasionally 50¢/$1

Buy-in will be min 80bb max 200bb, expecting each player to buy in up to 600bb over the course of the game. And I want to be able to comfortably support 8 players, and be able to manage with 10 players.

I want room to be able to grow into $1/$2 or $2.50/$5 in the future when inflation kicks in in 20 years. My easy solution to that is going to be multiplying the face value of every chip by 10. It leaves room to expand up to $2.50/$5 in the future since the smallest denom will be $2.50

When I play 10¢/20¢, 10¢ will equal a $10 chip.

When I play 25¢/50¢, 25¢ will equal a $2.50 chip.

I could just keep the face values as standard denomination and make 10¢ = $1 chip but I just wanna have fun and play with larger face values.

 

[FestiveKnight]

Going to be playing alot of 10¢/20¢ and 25¢/50¢

Occasionally 50¢/$1

Buy-in will be min 80bb max 200bb, expecting each player to buy in up to 600bb over the course of the game. And I want to be able to comfortably support 8 players, and be able to manage with 10 players.

I want room to be able to grow into $1/$2 or $2.50/$5 in the future when inflation kicks in in 20 years. My easy solution to that is going to be multiplying the face value of every chip by 10. It leaves room to expand up to $2.50/$5 in the future since the smallest denom will be $2.50

When I play 10¢/20¢, 10¢ will equal a $10 chip.

When I play 25¢/50¢, 25¢ will equal a $2.50 chip.

I could just keep the face values as standard denomination and make 10¢ = $1 chip but I just wanna have fun and play with larger face values.

If budget is of any concern, you can do a non denominated chip which can serve as frac at the lower stakes or a $500 at higher denoms. You don’t explicitly need both because you’re unlikely to have a game where you need a 1,000 or 2,000 BB chip. Obviously MOAR CHIPS = MOAR Better. But can be good option

 

[HelloGamer2]

If budget is of any concern, you can do a non denominated chip which can serve as frac at the lower stakes or a $500 at higher denoms. You don’t explicitly need both because you’re unlikely to have a game where you need a 1,000 or 2,000 BB chip. Obviously MOAR CHIPS = MOAR Better. But can be good option

That would be a good idea, but I’ll only need about a barrel of $500 chips so it would save ~$100 but then I would lose the dope L11 fancy chips

 

[allforcharity]

Okay, I must ask the obvious questions and make the not-so-obvious statement.

How are you going to play 0.10/0.20 when your smallest chip is a 0.25?

Do you really need a $500?

Tri-moon sucks.

 

[HelloGamer2]

Okay, I must ask the obvious questions and make the not-so-obvious statement

To play .10/.20 with standard denominations. I would treat a $1 chip as ten cents. So dividing face value by 10

I really don’t need a $500 chip but I wouldn’t mind having 20 or so just for the novelty

Tri moon sucks in general or do you ever appreciate it? You do have a point it’s the odd one out in this set. I don’t like how we are mostly limited to simple shapes for spot edges, triangular shapes would be cool.

 

[allforcharity]

To play .10/.20 with standard denominations. I would treat a $1 chip as ten cents. So dividing face value by 10

Do not do this. Make actual chips with actual denoms.

This means you will need 2 fracs, either 0.10 and 0.50 or 0.05 and 0.25.

 

[wtlau]

Completely agree with @allforcharity. If you want more flexibility though, maybe keep the progression you have and make the $500 a non-denom? You can play them as 5/10c and it gives them a purpose other than just to look at

 

[HelloGamer2]

Do not do this. Make actual chips with actual denoms.

This means you will need 2 fracs, either 0.10 and 0.50 or 0.05 and 0.25.

Yeah it’s a tough decision. What are the pros and cons?

One pro is that you can be accustomed to $1/$2 sizing while you practice with 10¢/20¢. So when you hit up the ‘sino, you won’t have to adjust at all! Pretty cool benefit tbh

 

[wtlau]

Yeah it’s a tough decision. What are the pros and cons?

One pro is that you can be accustomed to $1/$2 sizing while you practice with 10¢/20¢. So when you hit up the ‘sino, you won’t have to adjust at all! Pretty cool benefit tbh

Why stop there? Whack a couple more zeros on your numbers and you’re ready for the really really big games.

 

[AlbinoDragon]

Do a single non-denom in the set and define it as such before the game and as people buy into the game.

You only need one "oddball chip" in the entire set. It saves you money when you build the set and saves many games of agony of having do "do the math" and to re-convert, de-convert and make up for the difference between the value on the chip and what it really is worth.


I say this as someone who, for the longest time, did 100-1 values on my chips (PCA $5 as 'nickels' as infinitely fun until the game outgrew nickel-dime blinds...).



Many of the posters here are from North-America, so denominations of 0.10 or 0.50 are crazy-talk as those just don't exist here, but trying to do some fractional "adjustment" to make a chip line up with the native currency where you are is bound to cause headaches and ultimately problems with the band when cashing in or out.



You're working on custom chips here. Don't adapt... don't settle, make the chips that make your game work the best.
\

 

[Jers28]

No way I’m paying for a level 11 chip on a game this size. I’d work on keeping your levels to maybe a 3 average and work on killing the inlays. A “boring” chip with only one edge strip can look absolutely stunning if the inlay kills. See one of the guys here on the PCF’s set of Flamingo chips. These look amazing and are all level 2 chips.

 

[Jers28]

I realize they’re Paulson’s and not CPCs, but you get my point. Sometimes less is more.

 

[AlbinoDragon]

I realize they’re Paulson’s and not CPCs, but you get my point. Sometimes less is more.

I've come to dislike "emptying the clip" on the highest level spots on the chips you will rarely see. Tweak your budget and where you deploy the "good" spots and put those where you will see them the most and they will be on the felt the most so you can enjoy what you paid for.

My most recent custom set...

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/a-d-s-devils-nest-cpc-customs.78031/

I really should have done this a few custom sets ago rather than the most recent (and possibly last) custom set I make. Just remember, "spot progression" is something we chippers invented, but very few casinos have done. Browse the ChipGuide, particularly the newer casinos, and you will see the highest denominations chips do not have the most elaborate spots. The spots are there to distinguish from the ones "nearby" in value and not ultimate value....

 

[HelloGamer2]

Why stop there? Whack a couple more zeros on your numbers and you’re ready for the really really big games.

I had a genuine chuckle from this true

Do a single non-denom in the set and define it as such before the game and as people buy into the game.

You're working on custom chips here. Don't adapt... don't settle, make the chips that make your game work the best.

Right right right you are making quite a lot of sense. I just want some flexibility with the chipset and be able to run anywhere from 10¢/20¢ up to 1/2 depending on what kind of week it is. My first motive for this idea was to be able to ‘recycle’ some of the chips to be useful in a wider range of sizings. Another motive is the fantasy aspect, throwing some valuable chips down on the table and saying “I raise $100” is alot cooler than saying you raise $10.

I don’t forsee the division thing being a problem while cashing in/out players as long as they’re well aware of the setup before starting

I’ll still have too long to plan for this as cpc isn’t taking orders for the time being. Thanks for your input.

No way I’m paying for a level 11 chip on a game this size.

Meh personally the game sizing doesn’t relate to chip quality for me, just that I’m willing to spend about $3 avg per chip. And I could always relabel them in the future, so I want to invest in one good 10 player chipset instead of having multiple sets of various quality

 

[acezag]

No way I’m paying for a level 11 chip on a game this size. I’d work on keeping your levels to maybe a 3 average and work on killing the inlays. A “boring” chip with only one edge strip can look absolutely stunning if the inlay kills. See one of the guys here on the PCF’s set of Flamingo chips. These look amazing and are all level 2 chips.

Such a perfect example. One of IMO the most beautiful sets ever, and dead simple from a design standpoint - and lots of folks would trade a grail set for it in a heartbeat.
A couple other examples of super simple lineups that are coveted classics (including my current obsession, Stockyards):

 

[acezag]

This 6 piece cash chipset is my first attempt at designing a somewhat intuitive (to me) color progression and edge progression set.

Goes in order: 25¢ $1 $5 $25 $100 $500

Classic white for $1 and black for $100 though I’m not sure if I want red to be $5 or $25

The edge spot progression(viewed from the side) goes like this:

Basic Tier:
Solid 3 small-size
Hollow 2 tiny-size

—
Mid Tier:
Solid 3 medium-size
Hollow 3 tiny-size

—
Fancy Tier:
Solid 3 medium-size
Hollow 6 tiny-size
View attachment 1532227
View attachment 1532228
Please let me know any thoughts or improvements.

You've got some experts in here already on the design front. My biggest recommendation - most folks here seem to end up regretting or even really disliking their first custom set in hindsight, as they learn and see more after the fact.

I know for myself having only mocked stuff up, I come back after a few weeks and usually really dislike what I've made.

Since you have time, I'd say set aside any design you really like and don't look at it at all for a month or more. When you come back - does it put a big smile on your face?

 

[warma]

Do you really need a $500?

You don’t, honestly. Inflation isn’t going to go that bonkers. And to make that work, you’ll be buying a ton of chips.

Tri-moon sucks

They really don’t- some folks just don’t have tastes Go with what you like.

Make actual chips with actual denoms.

Agreed. Mental math problems during and after long poker games are the worst. The NCV chip could also solve your inflation concerns. Use it as 5¢ today and $100 in 20 years.

As for the design, I like what you’re thinking. Enjoy!

 

[Phoe9x]

If you’re serious with this route (CPC) make sure you know what you’re getting yourself into.

You need to buy a color sample set, since the colors on the screen don’t really match to real life. We also recommend getting shuffle stacks of your favorite molds so you know how they feel in your hands.

CPC is currently in the middle of an ownership transfer, and isn’t accepting orders until later this year. After that, you can expect to wait 4-12 months after paying to get your order just due to how lengthy the process is. Remember that CPC is pretty much a luxury in this hobby. I want you to have realistic expectations going with this route.

 

[FestiveKnight]

To play .10/.20 with standard denominations. I would treat a $1 chip as ten cents. So dividing face value by 10

You’re gonna have one of your chips represent a 10th of face but the rest not? Are you t totaling math professors who only play in the middle of the day? This seems so unnecessarily confusing. Beyond that silliness, the bigger question is to actually think about the stakes as values and play patterns, not just sets of two numbers. So to that end, I think the real salient advice if you want to avoid a non-denom and having both a 5¢/10¢ and a 25¢ is to ask yourself if 10¢/20¢ actually plays that differently than 25¢/25¢. If those few cents of effective stake would play meaningfully different at your game then you are forever away from some of the future proofing you’ve been discussing.

Yeah it’s a tough decision. What are the pros and cons?

One pro is that you can be accustomed to $1/$2 sizing while you practice with 10¢/20¢. So when you hit up the ‘sino, you won’t have to adjust at all! Pretty cool benefit tbh

Your players will be smart enough to have only one of the denoms representing 1/10th of face value but they’re bad enough at portioning out their chips that they need to practice in this way?

I don’t mean to come across harsh but you should slow down. A CPC set is expensive and takes a long time (at this point a very long time). Learn about denominations and stack composition and how they affect the game. Learn about the stakes and effective stack sizes and think about how you want your game to play.

Honestly I’m gonna guess that you haven’t actually hosted much. This maybe isn’t classic chipper advice but buy a $20 dice chip set and get half a dozen games under your belt. You might learn a lot that can inform your set design choices.

 

[VerdeChipper]

Right good point, I’m feeling like a pure white background with something random in the center would be cool. I really like “Atlantic Club” from CPC
View attachment 1532239

I agree that it's always better to keep things simple. Less is more. Also, there's nothing wrong with tailoring YOUR chips to YOUR game. There's nothing wrong with altering colors to suit your tastes IMO. I get the idea of having standard colors, but if the majority of your players aren't casino regulars, it just doesn't matter. They will be impressed that you have custom chips. Casino players can easily adapt to the colors. If you play cash games, you typically only need 4 chips. Tournaments... that's a different animal. I had a small stakes set that we would occasionally play tourneys with - on the 25c (lowest value we had) it would become a 25$ chip when we colored up. It worked but was a little bit of a pain. You can always add chips in the future if you find yourself playing more tourneys. When CPC gets up and running again, my set will have 4 chips with denominations and 1 chip that's an AV assigned value. I had never thought of that, but many members kept suggesting that. It makes more and more sense to me. Not sure I'd go with 10c chips - inflation yada yada. You could always go 25c/25/c for a low stakes game or use an AV chip as an additional micro frac or a higher value chip. Flexibility.

In real life, the light gray chip with the BROWN edge spots are sexy. You don't see them in sets that often, but every time I do, they end up being a standout chip - at least to me. That purple chip is too busy, but that's just me. As others have suggested, make your work horse chip the star of the set.

 

[SteveEH]

And I could always relabel them in the future.

Designing a half ass CPC set with a backup plan to relabel is just wrong. Take your time and design a set that will be your GOAT. Until you come up with that meaningful theme, buy a high quality interim set with a decent breakdown that can be resold (or kept).

Maff is hard. Don't use $1 denomination and tell your players to divide by 10. On the other hand, telling your players to pretend the $ symbol is actually a ¢ symbol isn't maff. This is what I do, it works fine with my players, but it's not popular on PCF.

Here's my stack, from THE GOAT set, of about 23,000 pennies:

 

[HelloGamer2]

I appreciate all of the insight fellas. I took some design advice from you guys and altered the set into something that feels more clean. Let me know what you think!

And I made a list of the number of chips I’ll need for a 10 handed game. It can support .25/.50 | .50/1 | 1/2

There’s no way it would be worth it to be able to support .10/.20 games. I would have to add a .10 chip, .5 chip, $2 chip, and a $10 chip to get it to play the way I would want it to. So I’m just gonna do quick maffs for .10/.20 games and divide by ten.

Now that I’m thinking about it though, I could add a 12.5¢ chip and run 12.5¢/25¢ fairly well. Would have to add 120 12.5¢ chips to do so. Sounds awkward as hell however.

 

[FestiveKnight]

Now that I’m thinking about it though, I could add a 12.5¢ chip and run 12.5¢/25¢ fairly well. Would have to add 120 12.5¢ chips to do so. Sounds awkward as hell however

Can you explain, using variables such as pot equity and stack to pot ratios the difference between how you imagine your group would play a 12.5¢/25¢ game vs a 25¢/25¢ game?

No hate directly on goofy denoms but also seems to me like a good fit for a chipper way down the road who has structured effective sets and then gets a barrel of a weird denomination as a joke, and not something to plan around for first customs.

 

[HelloGamer2]

It wouldn’t have any meaningful monetary difference since it’s low stakes. But it would make the starting pot one extra small blind larger than standard. Which would change strategy slightly. I would like to stick to standard strategy, I would be OCD about having to play slightly differently for the altered initial pot size. Don’t want to build bad habits.

Can you explain, using variables such as pot equity and stack to pot ratios the difference between how you imagine your group would play a 12.5¢/25¢ game vs a 25¢/25¢ game?

No hate directly on goofy denoms but also seems to me like a good fit for a chipper way down the road who has structured effective sets and then gets a barrel of a weird denomination as a joke, and not something to plan around for first customs.

 

[Phoe9x]

It wouldn’t have any meaningful monetary difference since it’s low stakes. But it would make the starting pot one extra small blind larger than standard. Which would change strategy slightly. I would like to stick to standard strategy, I would be OCD about having to play slightly differently for the altered initial pot size. Don’t want to build bad habits.

I don’t really see what the issue is. There’s more dead money in the pot, wouldn’t you want that?

If that’s the case do you not like straddles because it changes how you’re supposed to play?

 

[HelloGamer2]

I don’t really see what the issue is. There’s more dead money in the pot, wouldn’t you want that?

If that’s the case do you not like straddles because it changes how you’re supposed to play?

I prefer making it play as close to the way the casino does it, so straddles are fine. I understand lots of people compromise and play sb = bb in low stakes because it makes things easier but I don’t want to make that compromise

Rather would do the funky division thing personally