Tourney set help (1 Viewer)

BNM

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So, I'm working on making a tournament set. I've again enlisted the able help of J5 (The Man!), but I'm not giving him much to work with, so after thinking on this awhile I figured I'd seek the help of the forum.

In general, I like the edge spots. I have some other ideas that I'll put forward later, but I'm pretty happy in general with the chip color basics.

The inlay, however...it just doesn't feel right. We tried different colors for the denominations and that didn't seem to do it, either.

Thoughts?

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I think it may be the font itself causing your concerns. To me, black denominations without any outline will probably look best across all chips, although you may need to alter the 25K chip inlay color to match the lighter blue spot for it to look right on that chip.

Regarding your chose colors/spots, I like 'em all... but personally, I'd probably go with this lineup:
green 25
charcoal 100
purple 500
white 2000
orange 5000
blue 25K (and I'd probably use "25K" to keep the denomination size consistent)

May want to pop for bright white spots on the 25K chip, too -- will make a huge difference.
 
Black lettering looks a lot better than the others....it makes the values stand out without drowning in the design. I'd change the colors of the denoms as well ...... charcoal 100, purple 500, orange 2k and white 5k
 
Black lettering for sure. Maybe white labels with a light base color match water mark in the back ground and spot color matched hands and crescent moons(?). I think it would make the set look a little more cohesive. Also agree with BGinGA on color/denom pairing.
 
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Also if you move the center hand offset to the top (name) side of the inlay you could move the denoms up a Little bit
 
I really like the 100 inlay. Have you considered having white inlays throughout and color matching the denom or symbols?
 
There is good advice about the inlays above, my question is the denoms. Why go 25/100/500/2000/5000/25000? The T5000 is 2.5 times the T2000 If I missed something I apologize but wouldn't this work better? 25/100/500/2000/10000/50000
 
Thanks for the input! Very helpful

I'm fairly set on keeping the green, white and orange chips in that order (Irish flag) but I'm pretty open on where the other ones go. The idea was to have a fair amount of Irish in play at one time. Why the changes in denomination colors?

"I really like the 100 inlay. Have you considered having white inlays throughout and color matching the denom or symbols?" Solid suggestion and I am very open on this and will ask J5 to explore this direction.

The denomination progression is just a mistake. I think halfway through I changed to the 500/2000/10000 concept and forgot to update all of them.

Thoughts on a small plaque for my highest denomination? I was initially thinking of using the charcoal chip as the high value plaque but not sure.

And, of course, the chip design tool has me tweaking some more. The green, white and orange chips are set as far as colors/edge spots, but I was working with the others. Any thoughts?

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They are symbols from the family crests.
 
I have a couple more refinements from J5 based on some thoughts I've had and a few of the ideas on here. I feel like this is closer but it needs further refinement. Any thoughts?

jh_tour1e.jpg


Initially I thought the background should be a bit more beige, but it needs to be lighter (like the one on the right) so the denominations pop more. Same for the background image. I like the way he's matched the darker/base chip color to the 3 crescents, and the lighter edge spot color to the background design.

Thoughts? Input?
 
Initially I thought the background should be a bit more beige, but it needs to be lighter (like the one on the right) so the denominations pop more. Same for the background image. I like the way he's matched the darker/base chip color to the 3 crescents, and the lighter edge spot color to the background design.

Thoughts? Input?

Actually, the background beige is identical in these pictures. The beige on the left may seem darker to you because of the white ring providing contrast.

This picture is a composite of the left image at bottom, and the right image at top; the dividing line is through the Harvey:

upload_2015-9-27_11-16-31.png



So the differences are the white ring, and the fact that the background image is color-matched to the light spot versus the dark spot.

Beautiful set in progress, here - I especially love the 25 and 500.

I think both are lovely, but I prefer the design without the white ring. It feels more traditional, which would be in line with the family crests - the white ring has a more modern feel, to me.
 
[/QUOTE]So the differences are the white ring, and the fact that the background image is color-matched to the light spot versus the dark spot.[/QUOTE]

Wow, pretty impressive how much of a visual/optical effect the white ring has! Also impressive are your image-editing skillz!
 
Also impressive are your image-editing skillz!

Thanks, but no. It was just a rectangular cut/paste. All I had to do was line up the halves of the words... and I was sloppy, at that, because now I see the white bar across the top of the image I made! But it's enough to make the visual effect clear. (I like to study optical illusions and how the eye/brain processes them.)
 
Coming along great. Really like the bottom left.

Are you doing alternating sides with moons on one and hands on the other?

I'm also leaning bottom left. I've asked J5 to mock that up with the colored star watermark for comparison. Yes, I'll be doing alternating sides with the torques/moons on one side and the hands on the other. That's the plan at least!
 
Okay, first of several posts to try and push this project to the finish line. Pretty sure I know what I want to do but would love some feedback from the constituency. Please ignore the denomination amounts.

First, preferences between these two inlays? I think I prefer the one on the right since it helps with the contrast a bit more, but could be problematic with my white chip.

Second, preference on orientation? I prefer the orientation on the left.
 

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Coming along great. Really like the bottom left.

Are you doing alternating sides with moons on one and hands on the other?

Here is the whole set with the bottom-left styling (with color-match watermark), in the final order/progression. I think.
Tourney 4.0.png
 
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Much prefer the white inlay (on right in post #20). The inlays in post #21 look sorta drab, like they just need a good bath. I think your color details pop much better on a white background.
 
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Much prefer the white inlay (on right in post #20). The inlays in post #21 look sorta drab, like they just need a good bath. I think your color details pop much better on a white background.

Thank you for the input and I concur.

Any confused chip concerns given the above progression? Assumes either a 25/100/500/2000/10k/50k, or 25/100/500/1000/5k/25k, order. Looks okay from my samples and the other sample sets I have.
 
Having some minor issues with a purple chip that's not in the T500 slot, but that's just me. I'd probably go with one of these two lineups:

green 25 / charcoal 100 / purple 500 / orange 2000 / white 10k / blue 50k
or
green 25 / charcoal 100 / purple 500 / orange 1000 / white 5000 / blue 25k

Nothing wrong with exchanging the charcoal and white chips in either one, however - which would give more table contrast when the lower three denominations are in play.

I also have a slight preference to using the orange chip with a 1/4-twist, to help prevent it looking like target crosshairs.
 
These look amazing. Only feedback I have is the watermark and crests on the hundo are slightly lost in each other. Compared to all the others which contrast nicely more (to my eyes). I can't think of a solution to that though.. Perhaps the crest moons could take on a dot colour instead or a light grey to contrast more over the watermark? Not sure.

Definitely doesn't look "bad", just a minor observation.

These are going to be fantastic chips. Is the 1" inlay confirmed to be OK on this mold? I was always confused about why they recommend only 7/8 inlays because there seems to be plenty of room there. I never asked though..
 
Latest mock-up and pretty sure this is where we're going to land. Updates:

1. Had to go darker on the watermark on the white chip, vice a shade of the edge spot, to give it the necessary contrast.
2. Rearranged the order to reflect the more standard color progression and I'm kind of digging it. Will need a tourney structure that ensures good utilization of the T1000, though, since that's the signature chip.
3. Softened the background color - close to ASM white.
4. Changed the edge spots on the purple chip to a 314318.
5. Changed the color of the 25k from dark blue to blue. Not 100% sure about that change, but I feel blue brightens up the set.

jh_tour1k.jpg


Thoughts?
 
Like everything except the new T25K chip color -- the lighter blue loses a lot of contrast 'pop' compared to the previous darker one, and this one is way too close to the T500 chip imo.

Do you really even need a T25K chip? It rarely (if ever) sees any play unless your starting stacks are huge (20K+ with 20+ players) or there are multiple tables in play (4+). What is your intended breakdown for this set?

Time to print these out real-life size and see what the inlays look like on the poker table.
 
I can't disagree with Dave on a single point. Buuuuut, I make 25k chips for 2 reasons. Sometimes I host a high roller game where we simply adjust the blinds and announce bigger bets. Just for fun. Even if I didn't use my 25k chips, I'd still get a handful because I like having fun with it.
 
Sometimes I host a high roller game where we simply adjust the blinds and announce bigger bets.

Totally agree, but the set breakdown also has to support this..... it's not just a matter of having some T25k chips thrown in for good measure.
 
Like everything except the new T25K chip color -- the lighter blue loses a lot of contrast 'pop' compared to the previous darker one, and this one is way too close to the T500 chip imo.

Do you really even need a T25K chip? It rarely (if ever) sees any play unless your starting stacks are huge (20K+ with 20+ players) or there are multiple tables in play (4+). What is your intended breakdown for this set?

Time to print these out real-life size and see what the inlays look like on the poker table.
40 lashes with a wet noodle for suggesting less chipes!
 

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