Tourney T.25 tournament breakdown (1 Viewer)

dylpickle

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Hello all!

New (a few months) PCF member here, college student up in MN.

I am curious about how to stretch a nice set of low denom cash chips to run T.25 tournaments. I would like to be able to have a comfortable one table or potentially tighter two table breakdown. So far I haven't found T.25 advice that maps wonderfully to my needs due to the T1000s landing awkwardly between 5s and 20s in my game.

I know this isn't the gold standard, but having gotten a nice set of chips as a college student, I'm more interested in using my chips more than picking up a tournament set for now. I also am aware of security risks with using the chips in multiple ways, but I will never be playing with the higher denom chips in cash games for the near future anyhow (games have a 7-15 dollar buy-in depending on the evening).

Critically, I am starting with a couple hundred quarters and ones, and fifty fives. Have some 20s and 25s, but not many, and a rack of 100s.
Also, I've been told @Sprouty might be a strong resource for this.

Thank you all for your help with my quirky questions!

- Dylpickle
 
Thank you for linking that! I had a feeling BGinGA had posted about this, but I couldn't find the post in my searches for T.25
 
Hello all!

New (a few months) PCF member here, college student up in MN.

I am curious about how to stretch a nice set of low denom cash chips to run T.25 tournaments. I would like to be able to have a comfortable one table or potentially tighter two table breakdown. So far I haven't found T.25 advice that maps wonderfully to my needs due to the T1000s landing awkwardly between 5s and 20s in my game.

I know this isn't the gold standard, but having gotten a nice set of chips as a college student, I'm more interested in using my chips more than picking up a tournament set for now. I also am aware of security risks with using the chips in multiple ways, but I will never be playing with the higher denom chips in cash games for the near future anyhow (games have a 7-15 dollar buy-in depending on the evening).

Critically, I am starting with a couple hundred quarters and ones, and fifty fives. Have some 20s and 25s, but not many, and a rack of 100s.
Also, I've been told @Sprouty might be a strong resource for this.

Thank you all for your help with my quirky questions!

- Dylpickle
What is your current chip break down and how much will your buy ins be?
 
I have a larger set of Hardwell Undergrounds from Sean (bless that man), and a smaller set of Tiki Kings I got for Christmas.

For the Tikis , the breakdown is:

180 x 0.25
200 x 1s
50 x 5s
20 x 20 custom plaques
20 x 100s

I have the opportunity to pick up a bit more Tikis, and with my budget constraint I'm trying to choose chips that would let these be used for T.25 tournaments, mainly for one table at present. Thinking I want some 5s for sure, would love to think of a way to keep the plaques in use (except perhaps when the 100s are needed at the very tail end of the tournament) but 20 may just be too few. Some 25s might need to replace them :(
 
For the Tikis , the breakdown is:

180 x 0.25
200 x 1s
50 x 5s
20 x 20 custom plaques
20 x 100s

I have the opportunity to pick up a bit more Tikis, and with my budget constraint I'm trying to choose chips that would let these be used for T.25 tournaments, mainly for one table at present. Thinking I want some 5s for sure, would love to think of a way to keep the plaques in use (except perhaps when the 100s are needed at the very tail end of the tournament) but 20 may just be too few. Some 25s might need to replace them :(
For a single-table (10-player) set using 12/12/5/2 = T80 stacks (160bb with .25/.50 blinds), you will need:

120 x .25
120 x 1
50 x 5
20 x 20
---------
310 chips minimum, but will need to add 30 x T5 chips for the T.25/T1 color-ups and improved game play.

You won't really need the 100s -- blinds won't get larger than 15/30 or 20/40.
 
That makes a lot of sense, thank you. 160bb is considered very short stacked for tournament norms now, right? Or is that fine if buy-backs are allowed for the first several increases?

5s definitely seem like the pinch point, and maybe some more plaques or 25s (hate them being bigger than the plaques) for later in the game.
 
That makes a lot of sense, thank you. 160bb is considered very short stacked for tournament norms now, right? Or is that fine if buy-backs are allowed for the first several increases?

5s definitely seem like the pinch point, and maybe some more plaques or 25s (hate them being bigger than the plaques) for later in the game.

It depends on your blind structure. 160bb with slow increases isn't short stacked. Similarly if you start at 250bb but double blinds your first two levels you're hardly deep stacked. Given your chipset you probably have to start at .25/.50. Instead of doubling to .5/1, add a .25/.75 level to smooth it out. If you make the first two levels at least 30 minutes you'll have an hour of >100bb play.
 
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Highly dependent on the specific blind structure used, but generally-speaking, starting stacks of:

< 50bb = unreasonable
50bb-75bb = turbo
100bb-175bb = normal/typical
200bb-300bb = deepstack
> 300bb = unnecessary

Most tournament pots played beyond the flop will contain 15bb-30bb on average (5bb-10bb pre, 10bb-20bb after flop, 20bb-40bb after turn, 30bb-60bb after river).

It's not unusual to consider up to to 30bb of your stack at imminent risk (on average) when initially getting involved in a hand, although it's typically in the 5bb-10bb range.
 
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