Scandia $1. Relabel as pca or keep for mixed set? (1 Viewer)

Relabel as PCA $1 or keep for mixed set?


  • Total voters
    36
Wonder if they would have received the same treatment if any had been in mint condition.

But as worn bicycle tires on top of everything else, they sure were easy targets. Best used for target practice, too.

If they were mint, it’s be a lot closer to the PCA $1 situation, for me anyway. Different mold (and giant inlay), but at least matching condition and stack heights.
 
Wonder if they would have received the same treatment if any had been in mint condition.

But as worn bicycle tires on top of everything else, they sure were easy targets. Best used for target practice, too.

Mint or not I would never have used them. The worst thing is gigantic WHITE inlay. It would have been tolerable if it had been done with some kind of color matching so that it was a red inlay. Or if the $1 has been a blue based chip, or anything not white.
 
Wonder if they would have received the same treatment if any had been in mint condition.

But as worn bicycle tires on top of everything else, they sure were easy targets. Best used for target practice, too.

Case study: mint St. Jo Frontier secondary $5s.
16405.jpg
 
Full inlay replace for the PCA $1. The PCA $1 is the RHC bastard child of an otherwise grail set, similar to (but not quite as bad as) the Aztar MO $5.

Lol, that's pretty harsh, (not to mention not even one of the options he was considering).. you've been talking to "Dan the Butcher" too much :p
I get some people don't like RHCs, and the PCA $1 has the unfortunate luck of being a RHC in a set with other awesome THC chips... but not all RHC chips are created equal. The PCA $1 is one of the better/best ones. I think it is a great chip.
Great stacking, feel and weight (leaded I believe?).. and a Textured inlay that fills the Entire RHC recess.
Great color and spot combo that goes well with the PCA set.
If there is going to be a single RHC denom in an otherwise THC set, this is about as good as it gets.
I think the PCA is an awesome set (grail set if you like), and don't think the $1 makes it not awesome / a non-grail set.
Maybe I'll have to start a go fund me to "Save the PCA $1s" from the exacto knife..

I own a PCA cash set with 4 racks of original PCA $1s and I approve this message
 
Lol, that's pretty harsh, (not to mention not even one of the options he was considering).. you've been talking to "Dan the Butcher" too much :p

I like the new name!

I get some people don't like RHCs, and the PCA $1 has the unfortunate luck of being a RHC in a set with other awesome THC chips... but not all RHC chips are created equal. The PCA $1 is one of the better/best ones. I think it is a great chip.

As RHC chips go, the PCA $1 is excellent. The textured inlay makes a huge difference.

Maybe I'll have to start a go fund me to "Save the PCA $1s" from the exacto knife..

Technically, no one is threatening to butcher the PCA $1, just other chips to replace them. So they actually don't need saving, so the speak.
 
I like the new name!
As RHC chips go, the PCA $1 is excellent. The textured inlay makes a huge difference.
Technically, no one is threatening to butcher the PCA $1, just other chips to replace them. So they actually don't need saving, so the speak.

Make sure you have someone announce you as that when you arrive at games..
for example, "Uh oh, Dan the Butcher is here" :eek:
Then take note of the sweat beads forming on the other players foreheads.

Ah, I must have misunderstood Kyle's statement.. "Full inlay replace for the PCA $1..."
Then he means full inlay replace the Scandia $1 and get the PCA $1 out of the set.
Personally wouldn't do that either (but I don't mind mixing and matching)... that would bring the cost to over $5.50 a chip, which gets you in PCA $5 territory.. so what I'm saying is: sell me the Scandia $1s, keep the PCA $1s and buy more PCA $5s..
 
Make sure you have someone announce you as that when you arrive at games..
for example, "Uh oh, Dan the Butcher is here" :eek:
Then take note of the sweat beads forming on the other players foreheads.

Ah, I must have misunderstood Kyle's statement.. "Full inlay replace for the PCA $1..."
Then he means full inlay replace the Scandia $1 and get the PCA $1 out of the set.
Personally wouldn't do that either (but I don't mind mixing and matching)... that would bring the cost to over $5.50 a chip, which gets you in PCA $5 territory.. so what I'm saying is: sell me the Scandia $1s, keep the PCA $1s and buy more PCA $5s..

It would certainly be a pricey $1 chip in the end, so one does have to consider if you're getting enough improvement to justify it. And some people probably prefer the original $1 to the inlay replaced Scandia $1, so there's that too.

In the case of the money I spent to do the Aztar $5 chips, it was a no brainier as the improvement from the original $5 was enormous.

I own a PCA cash set with 4 racks of original PCA $1s and I approve this message

My PCA set also uses original $1 chips (3 racks in a set of 1500: 300/800/300/100). Over the past 7 years I've often considered doing something with the $1 chip, but at the end of the day I like the original $1 chips well enough to just leave it alone. While I don't like the mismatched mold, I do like the fact that they're original and match in that respect.
 
It’s just so difficult to peel the labels though. So much worse than I expected.
 
It’s just so difficult to peel the labels though. So much worse than I expected.

Yes... it would be harder than with the modern RHC chips, which are already tough... this is probably why such projects are so rare.
 
It’s just so difficult to peel the labels though. So much worse than I expected.

I've (literally) felt your pain. It's time consuming and can be tedious, but the end results (IMO) are often worth in as compared to just relabeling over the existing inlay.

Yes... it would be harder than with the modern RHC chips, which are already tough... this is probably why such projects are so rare.

Actually, in my experience, I've found THC chips to be a little easier than RHC, maybe because there's typically 30-40% more inlay area to remove on RHC, not sure.

The toughest chips I've ever tried to remove inlays from where the house mold Stardust Poker Mansion chips. The original inlays on those go right up to (and sometimes into) the edge of the recess. I gave up on those after a few chips.
 
Did another one. It was easier than the first and I essentially got the inlay out in one piece with no residue behind. I’m going to persevere and do all 300.

Extremely impressed with the laminated labels though, you’d never know they are a replacement.

I did narrowly miss my finger with the knife and scratched the chip instead. I anticipate many cuts in this process.
6730799E-D2DF-4193-9CCF-CDCEB3139851.jpeg
 
I like those much better. Did you try any label overs to compare. I’m in a similar situation with those scandias also.
 
I like those much better. Did you try any label overs to compare. I’m in a similar situation with those scandias also.
I’ve labelled over chips before and whilst they came out quite nicely, they looked like a label over.

There’s no comparison with the full replacement.
 
Thanks. It feels great committing a bentax.
Knocked this one out in about 90 seconds.
I’ll be a serial killer in no time.
View attachment 205900
View attachment 205901
View attachment 205902

If you want to take it to the next level, find/buy a 7/8" (22mm) aluminum rod. Keep one end in a boiling water and then remove it and let it sit on the original inlay for 10-12 seconds. The heat will transfer to the inlay, but not the face of the chip. Then remove the rod and go about the removal. Depending on the chip, it can make things a lot easier. Still not easy, but for stubborn chips I found it can be helpful. It will slow down the process because of the added step, but you can often make up the time if the inlay ends up coming off easier with less scraping.


tl;dr I sometimes brand my chips with a hot metal rod before killing them.
 
Are you at least wearing disposable exam gloves? They will offer a modicum of protection from the blade edge/point while keeping full range of motion with your fingers. May enhance friction, too, if you're the sweaty-hands type. And besides, you'd look so *clinical* while doing the work!
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom