RUST Sucks - New Solution w No Abrasion, No water, No soap, No damage (Paris $2) (2 Viewers)

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ATTENTION
This method works really well and has proven to be a great method of removing rust. Please NOTE: and continue with CAUTION! it was discussed deeper in this thread that an electric or battery powered spinning eraser would work. DO NOT attempt this powered and spinning method as it will damage chips. Stick to the manual method with eraser in hand and scrub. I would have edited the parts of this forum that mentioned powered erasers but, as you know in the FAQ, this forum has exceeded the time allowed to be able to go back and edit. The admins offered to post this message in place of editing. Thanks Admins ;) So Manual hand eraser only. NO POWERED ERASERS as it may damages your chips. It's all explained deeper in the thread. -OneGearManySpeeds 4/4/24


Thought I’d share a method I stumbled onto that cleans up the rust on "Light Pink spots like Paris 2, assuming it will work with AS dollar spots and HSI snappers as well but have not tested. Many chips suffer from Rust.

This method is 100% non abrasive and does not seem to remove the clay surface and does not round crisp edges or remove surface texture or hat detail. I thought I’d share since I’m super excited about actually being able to use the Paris 2 as fracs and the pink is gorgeous after this process. Test and try yourself and share results here.

No water. No soap. No abrasion. No more rust! Money shot here. Left barrel is BEFORE and Right barrel is AFTER barrels are from the same identical rack. JD snappers for reference (note, thanks to @grantc54 the snappers don't actually match the Paris spots but I have them for reference cause it's the only pinkish chips I own). You can see that literally the sides of the MINT Paris chips still have all of the nice factory grain to them and they are not sanded smooth like with more abrasive solutions (Mr Clean Magic Sponge Erasers are abrasive and remove clay). I'm super excited about this method. Even tho I'm new to the forum I'm pretty good in the model shop and thought... there must be a better way to remove this film or whatever it is. And works like a charm.

Supplies needed.
Staedtler Erasers https://a.co/d/8AgCQZG
Staedtler Stick https://a.co/d/0zLgcCP
Staedtler Stick with Refills https://a.co/d/d5s1sPx
And a Brush to brush away all the rolled up little balls of rubber eraser
Magnifying Glass is super helpful for the faces to get that last 5% of rust out of the details.

*Note, I've not tried any other brands or any other erasers. But this works. you can test other brands but I've only tested Staedtler because that's what I had. Staedtler is the brand that has been around for years and is the brand we all used for drafting back in the day. I'm guessing other Mars plastic super soft white erasers would also work but it's not been tested.

Caution: Some users, myself included tried electric erasers that spin and they generate too much head and soften/melt the clay. Stay clear of electric solutions.

@casinochipper22 Thanks for the minty rack. This rack is gorgeous but you can see how much that rust bothered me lol.

Does anyone know if the rust comes back after cleaning? And what the rust is? Comment below.

Step by step, take you through the process below. Share your experiences.
98069ca5-9605-40b0-ba73-ec5f208e3e1a-jpeg.1102046


Step 1. Pick up a pack of these from Amazon. Assuming other similar white drafting or art erasers will work. I also have a pen type holder with the same eraser that works.
EEE493CB-7DAD-4C56-93D7-7344871B8F09.jpeg


Step 2. Rack them up in a Paulson rack and line up the spots. And erase. It’s easier to scrub along the barrel but the clay grain runs along the chip edge so I start by scrubbing along the length and then circular or sideways along each chip. Keeping them as a barrel saves any potential damage to the crisp edges. You can see I started erasing toward the bottom and only cleaned half the barrel in this pic. You can see all the rust coming off with the rubber eraser. These erasers are very soft and white and used in drafting to remove graphite from vellum and ink from drafting film. It's non abrasive, doesn't scratch anything even labels. It's designed not to destroy the surface of expensive papers and leaves the paper tooth intact. so on chips is the Boss.
A9135F1B-1846-46FB-AC0D-98167085606B.jpeg


Comparing the treated (right) with the untreated (left) a barrel can be fully treated in a few minutes. I was careful with the end chips and on the rest of the barrels I treated the centers and then split the barrel of 20 into two stacks of ten and put the end chips together and finished scrubbing.
314563FF-B6BB-49F9-AAAA-A8FFB8942E1F.jpeg


Before and after shots, barrel to the left is uncleaned and barrel to the right has just been cleaned.
98069CA5-9605-40B0-BA73-EC5F208E3E1A.jpeg



Rack before
54CAE0C5-A0E7-4F55-9A81-3F62E94EA979.jpeg
0F1A9ED6-5EE6-40AF-89A5-A43CB2A2BE31.jpeg


Rack after (Note... the snappers and "light pink" Paris spots are different pinks but coordinate nicely)
9B727AB0-6B07-4512-83B8-A03D37A829B9.jpeg
623E0288-C7B7-402F-A144-D2055257DE58.jpeg


Next step, the faces. You can scrub the faces similarly but this took some time. Additionally I turned a chunk of Delrin (plastic) on the metal lathe at the following dimensions and used it as a jig to hold the chip and protect the crisp edges. It’s perfectly flush and snug. If I made any more I think I'd add a little more material to the margins so there's more to hang onto. You can clean without this ring but I wanted to insure the crisp mint edges were untouched.
F8694AB8-41DE-4342-BFA2-864F35EA4FBF.jpeg
DF68BFF4-AC52-43BB-8964-30A79B06216B.jpeg
31057D9D-5E70-4A23-93BB-29B018507A7F.jpeg
A54D8A71-A7A9-4C7F-A8A9-BC027716A534.jpeg


Next step just work both sides with the eraser. Doesn’t scratch and isn’t abrasive against the label with overlay. I have not tested this with over labels without the protective overlay layer. Pretty straight forward. In the two photos you can see the cleaned chip on the left and the uncleaned chip to the right.
A54D8A71-A7A9-4C7F-A8A9-BC027716A534.jpeg
FEF2DC31-961B-4B9E-BF2C-7D617FCAE674.jpeg
C9FD4C54-AD31-4D40-A833-54923D8A30B6.jpeg


The results. Treated chip on the (left) and untreated chip on the (right). You can really see the rust in this photo on the chip to the right.
1A590330-FE96-4C8C-AB9F-55FFF4B4C03F.jpeg


Comparison Untreated on the (left) and treated on the (right). The Jack snappers and the Paris 2 are different Paulson colors according to @grantc54 but do coordinate nicely. Also the only other pink chips I have so using them as reference. The main point here is the Paris light pink spots no longer look like puke and actually resemble something in the pink family :p Ready to over label these and felt them. Can't wait. .
98069CA5-9605-40B0-BA73-EC5F208E3E1A.jpeg


Full rack cleaned up.
9B727AB0-6B07-4512-83B8-A03D37A829B9.jpeg


Share your thoughts, concerns, results, etc!
 

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How much do you charge per rack to erase Paris $2s...?
Ah man, this post is strictly me giving back to you guys. I've learned so much in the last two months and just sharing some insights. Not marketing here. But I do know some guys who are milling and labeling and stuff like that I'll try and tag them here if I can find the pms. Anyone with some Time and an eraser can do this.
 
My theory is it's some kind of oxidation, but it could be from skin oils or the pigment interactions in the clay colors
Agreed. I had a theory that it was interacting with the metallic fleck in the Paris base color but that can't be it if the SA dollar and HSIs have issues. Maybe someone was smoking week on the factory floor that day lol
 
My theory is it's some kind of oxidation, but it could be from skin oils or the pigment interactions in the clay colors
I’m inclined to believe the same, but it sure feels like it “bleeds” versus a surface reaction. But that may just be my imagination.

What really matters is will it continue to do so or is it confined to the manufacturing process. Time will tell, and this is as well-cleaned a rack as I’ve seen.
 
Thought I’d share a method I stumbled onto that cleans up the rust on pink spots like Paris 2, assuming it will work with AS dollars and HSI chips as well but have not tested. This method is 100% non abrasive and does not seem to remove the clay surface and does not round crisp edges or remove surface texture or hat detail. I thought I’d share since I’m super excited about actually being able to use the Paris 2 as fracs and the link is gorgeous. Test and try yourself and share results here.

No water. No soap. No abrasion. No more rust! Money shot here. Left barrel is BEFORE and Right barrel is AFTER. JD snappers for pink reference. You can see that literally the sides of the MINT Paris chips still have all of the nice factory grain to them and they are not sanded smooth like with more abrasive solutions. I'm super excited about this method. Even tho I'm new to the forum I'm pretty good in the model shop and thought... there must be a better way to remove this film or whatever it is.

@casinochipper22 Thanks for the minty rack. This rack is gorgeous but you can see how much that rust bothered me lol.

Does anyone know if the rust comes back after cleaning? And what the rust is? Comment below.

Step by step, take you through the process below. Share your experiences.
98069ca5-9605-40b0-ba73-ec5f208e3e1a-jpeg.1102046


Step 1. Pick up a pack of these from Amazon. Assuming other similar white drafting or art erasers will work. I also have a pen type holder with the same eraser that works.
View attachment 1102057

Step 2. Rack them up in a Paulson rack and line up the spots. And erase. It’s easier to scrub along the barrel but the clay grain runs along the chip edge so I start by scrubbing along the length and then circular or sideways along each chip. Keeping them as a barrel saves any potential damage to the crisp edges. You can see I started erasing toward the bottom and only cleaned half the barrel in this pic. You can see all the rust coming off with the rubber eraser. These erasers are very soft and white and used in drafting to remove graphite from vellum and ink from drafting film. It's non abrasive, doesn't scratch anything even labels. It's designed not to destroy the surface of expensive papers and leaves the paper tooth intact. so on chips is the Boss.
View attachment 1102043

Comparing the treated (right) with the untreated (left) a barrel can be fully treated in a few minutes. I was careful with the end chips and on the rest of the barrels I treated the centers and then split the barrel of 20 into two stacks of ten and put the end chips together and finished scrubbing.
View attachment 1102045

Before and after shots, barrel to the left is uncleaned and barrel to the right has just been cleaned.
View attachment 1102046


Rack before
View attachment 1102042View attachment 1102044

Rack after
View attachment 1102047View attachment 1102048

Next step, the faces. You can scrub the faces similarly but this took some time. Additionally I turned a chunk of Delrin (plastic) on the metal lathe at the following dimensions and used it as a jig to hold the chip and protect the crisp edges. It’s perfectly flush and snug. If I made any more I think I'd add a little more material to the margins so there's more to hang onto. You can clean without this ring but I wanted to insure the crisp mint edges were untouched.
View attachment 1102049View attachment 1102050View attachment 1102052View attachment 1102054

Next step just work both sides with the eraser. Doesn’t scratch and isn’t abrasive against the label with overlay. I have not tested this with over labels without the protective overlay layer. Pretty straight forward. In the two photos you can see the cleaned chip on the left and the uncleaned chip to the right.
View attachment 1102054View attachment 1102053View attachment 1102055

The results. Treated chip on the (left) and untreated chip on the (right). You can really see the rust in this photo on the chip to the right.
View attachment 1102056

Comparison Untreated on the (left) and treated on the (right). The pinks on the Jack snappers and the Paris 2 are a perfect match now. Ready to over label these and felt them. Can't wait. .
View attachment 1102046

Full rack cleaned up.
View attachment 1102047

Share your thoughts, concerns, results, etc!
Just one point of clarification. The problem colour is "light pink" (on the Paris $2, HSI, etc), the Jack Detroit snapper is pink. These colours shouldn't match.
 
Jack Detroit snapper is pink. These colours shouldn't match
Updating thread. I guess I never held them literally against each other. Thanks for the clarification man.

So the value here is the color no longer looks like puke and looks like an actual color resembling something in the pinkish hue lol. Thx man.
 
Thanks for posting such a detailed thread! I've got some of those same erasers, and I'm curious how this will work on the Horseshoe Cleveland 500 primaries that have the same pink shading issue.
 
Somebody please try on the secondary HSI snappers. Very curious
I was thinking that also. Since its the base colour it will be a lot more work especially since the "rusting" is under the inlay also. Once would IMO need to murder and flatten all the chips first before undertaking this new process.
 
Thanks for posting such a detailed thread! I've got some of those same erasers, and I'm curious how this will work on the Horseshoe Cleveland 500 primaries that have the same pink shading issue.
Talking about these? Ya add that to the list then. Try it and post results. It's non abrasive so there's no risk in testing that I can see.
1679200060572.png
 
I was thinking that also. Since its the base colour it will be a lot more work especially since the "rusting" is under the inlay also. Once would IMO need to murder and flatten all the chips first before undertaking this new process.

I think these are the grand daddy of all rust issues correct? I don't have any but if someone wants to donate a rack or so I'll certainly test and post results :)

Also, not sure if the rust spreads. If it doesn't then I would think you could leave the label on and just treat the exposed visible surfaces. If it does then ya under the label may be an issue. If the rust comes back after cleaning (unknown as of this date 3/19/2023) then all is lost.
XckGWAA.jpg
 
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Supplies needed.

Erasers https://a.co/d/8AgCQZG
1679201406785.png


or Stick https://a.co/d/0zLgcCP
1679201361984.png


or an electric eraser might be the $h!# if it fits the standard refills https://a.co/d/d5s1sPx Not sure what diameter these are but you'll need to make sure the speed and friction doesn't generate any heat. Would be good for getting into detail like the hats and the insides of the inlays.
1679201312586.png


And a brush to brush away all the rolled up little balls of rubber eraser.
 
I’m inclined to believe the same, but it sure feels like it “bleeds” versus a surface reaction. But that may just be my imagination.

What really matters is will it continue to do so or is it confined to the manufacturing process. Time will tell, and this is as well-cleaned a rack as I’ve seen.
original sale thread > https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/damaged-hsi-secondary-snappers.101826/

I saw your sale post after researching the HSI secondary similar issue with the Paris, Can you explain what "varying degrees of TSP/Ultrasonic damage" is and is this different than the manufacturing rust in general. I know the Paris I cleaned up have not been cleaned once and have not been dropped into any ultrasonic process. These HSI, do you think they could have been erased or did the ultrasonic process permanently damage? Help me understand.

I've been thinking of getting a rack from someone or some chips and testing this process on the HSI. If anyone has a few singles they don't mind shipping I can test and post results.

4HZReVv.jpg
 
original sale thread > https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/damaged-hsi-secondary-snappers.101826/

I saw your sale post after researching the HSI secondary similar issue with the Paris, Can you explain what "varying degrees of TSP/Ultrasonic damage" is and is this different than the manufacturing rust in general. I know the Paris I cleaned up have not been cleaned once and have not been dropped into any ultrasonic process. These HSI, do you think they could have been erased or did the ultrasonic process permanently damage? Help me understand.

I've been thinking of getting a rack from someone or some chips and testing this process on the HSI. If anyone has a few singles they don't mind shipping I can test and post results.

4HZReVv.jpg
No, the ultrasonic (US) damage is from someone attempting to clean them in a US bath, and either left them in too long or added to much cleaning chemical (TSP). It damaged the actual clay. These were originally sold and shipped AS-IS by Jim directly out of huge barrels, so expectations were low. *edit: I then outsourced having them cleaned and it just didn't go well.

You'd probably learn more here than from my sales thread: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/hsi-secondary-snapper-cleaning-tips.69427/
 
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No, the ultrasonic (US) damage is from someone attempting to clean them in a US bath, and either left them in too long or added to much cleaning chemical (TSP). It damaged the actual clay. These were originally sold and shipped AS-IS by Jim directly out of huge barrels, so expectations were low. *edit: I then outsourced having them cleaned and it just didn't go well.

You'd probably learn more here than from my sales thread: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/hsi-secondary-snapper-cleaning-tips.69427/
I gotcha... wonder how many other chips have been damaged in this way... I just threw out a thread in the classifieds simply asking for singles for testing. I'll need a few singles so I can post before and after shots. Looking for anything that's rusted but I'm doubtful that if a chip has suffered this fate of excessive ultrasonic cleaning it may come or or most likely may be permanently sealed in it's rusted state. Is this your thought as well?

Looking for singles for testing. ideally a few or any number. Or get on amazon, order the supplies for a couple bucks, try it yourself and post some results.
 
I gotcha... wonder how many other chips have been damaged in this way... I just threw out a thread in the classifieds simply asking for singles for testing. I'll need a few singles so I can post before and after shots. Looking for anything that's rusted but I'm doubtful that if a chip has suffered this fate of excessive ultrasonic cleaning it may come or or most likely may be permanently sealed in it's rusted state. Is this your thought as well?

Looking for singles for testing. ideally a few or any number.
I honestly don’t think it matters if there is rust on an already ruined chip outside of curiosity. It’s already ruined.

Specifically, the chips from my sales thread are such an outlier that I don’t think it really helps anyone that much, regardless of the outcome. I also lost a ton of time and money on them, and as my sales thread noted, I’d really hoped to just forget them instead of turning them into a science project. But definitely following along. :)
 

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