HSI Secondary Snapper Cleaning Tips (1 Viewer)

davislane

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Now that the sale thread was marked as SOLD we are unable to continue sharing wins and losses on how to turn these ugly ducklings into the swans they were meant to be.

So I thought I would start a thread to continue the conversation around how "best" to clean off the chip rust on these chips.

Thanks to all who originally contributed over at

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/snapper-sunday-sale.68257/
 
Having read that thread, but not having reread to refresh my memory, it seems that ultrasonic will do it. Someone said that they found the US to be the most "damaging" - i.e. it took off the most chip material, but at least it should do it evenly. The petroleum distillate products scare me, but Paulsons are the most resistant to solvents, so that may be a way to go. For me, when these are in my possession, I'm going to start with US and finish off with Magic Eraser. If that doesn't do the trick, I suppose the polishing products will be the next step.
 
Is anyone planning overlabelling these? Curious to know if its sufficent or if murder is required.
I have not milled nor have I overlabelled, but if one is using these as an HSI frac, the way to go would be to remove the 7/8ths inch inlay and replace with a 7/8ths inch frac label. If you want to use them with a label larger than 7/8ths, then, as I understand it, milling+label is superior to overlabel.
 
Has anyone tried petroleum distallate products yet?

I dont recall anyone talking about US cleaning damaging the chips. I must have missed that if it was discussed.
I will, of course reread every post before my first rack arrives, but someone definitely said something like "I tried US, Magic Eraser, and the various cutting compounds, and US took off the most material". All the cutting compounds and polishes contain petroleum distillates.

EDIT: WRONG - see post #16
 
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I used the US earlier this week on the chips I had already done using the magic eraser. I am very happy with the results, a ton of the yellow is gone on most chips.

I did 8 mins with dawn/tsp, at 45 degrees. I also used my salad spinner to rotate the chips every minute.

The only downside has been some of the warping has come back and I will need to reflatten some chips.
 
Label of Meguiar's cutting compound:

e45363357ebe5f20a35204ee5e49a245.png
 
When I used the polish compound I was very concerned about how much pink matial was on my cloth.

May have been in my head but it seemed like the inlay ridge and ridge at the H&C was softened too which scared me. I would vote US before polish.

I think I have the chips where I like them now.
 
Having read that thread, but not having reread to refresh my memory, it seems that ultrasonic will do it. Someone said that they found the US to be the most "damaging" - i.e. it took off the most chip material, but at least it should do it evenly.
Not with Red Devil; I left it in there and ran it for an hour. It was all washed out when it came out. But my latex glove STILL TURNED YELLOW after handing it.
 
I used the US earlier this week on the chips I had already done using the magic eraser. I am very happy with the results, a ton of the yellow is gone on most chips.

I did 8 mins with dawn/tsp, at 45 degrees. I also used my salad spinner to rotate the chips every minute.

The only downside has been some of the warping has come back and I will need to reflatten some chips.

When I used the polish compound I was very concerned about how much pink matial was on my cloth.

May have been in my head but it seemed like the inlay ridge and ridge at the H&C was softened too which scared me. I would vote US before polish.

I think I have the chips where I like them now.

pron?
 
After a reread, I realize that no one in the thread said that an ultrasonic removed material. The only posts that I could find that mentioned material being removed were:

post 411, @TeamNapoli said:
"i would say the ultra cut is most abrasive, maybe start with a finishing compound and if it fails then and move up the ladder in cutting strength. just like detailing your car."

post 478, @grantc54 said:
"I tried some cut compound today. I suspect it is taking a lot more of the chip away than the magic eraser does (based on amount of pink on cloth and general feel of chip after). I need to experiment a bit more when I have more time next week."

I guess I misread.
 
After a reread, I realize that no one in the thread said that an ultrasonic removed material. The only posts that I could find that mentioned material being removed were:

post 411, @TeamNapoli said:
"i would say the ultra cut is most abrasive, maybe start with a finishing compound and if it fails then and move up the ladder in cutting strength. just like detailing your car."

post 478, @grantc54 said:
"I tried some cut compound today. I suspect it is taking a lot more of the chip away than the magic eraser does (based on amount of pink on cloth and general feel of chip after). I need to experiment a bit more when I have more time next week."

I guess I misread.
#fakenews. ;)
 
my first barrels from last week end.
chip face are ok but edges are not perfect. i will add another session of ultrasonic on some
Cleaning is a very long work :( Flattening is the most quick (only 10 minutes)

i tested magic eraser but i don't like it cause it damage hatchcrossing (imo).


IMG-20210220-225614.jpg




IMG-20210220-225732-W.jpg


some uvs:
IMG-20210220-225740-W.jpg
 
I dont know if you can clean off the yellow without effecting the cross hatch as the yellow is the actual chip material.
 
Another update to the methods I've been trying mainly using the ultrasonic.

Did another round of cleaning and was trying several different things during this process to monitor differences.

1) The water I used this time was at 70 °C, which is 158 °F. Yes I know sounds like it's too much for the chips but I really didn't feel like it was. Considering the chips were probably originally molded at a higher temperature, I had a feeling that temperature wasn't going to harm them. I used just the TSP by itself without adding the Dawn dish soap at first. Ran a barrel in the US for 5 minutes and took them out. I'm pretty sure that it wasn't as effective as it was when I mixed in the Dawn. To confirm, I put in 2 TBSP of Dawn and did another round on the same barrel for 3 minutes. Took the barrel out and noticed it did a really good job. There were a couple that weren't as good as I wanted them to be so I kept those on the side as re-do's that would go in with the next barrel.

2) After trying out one barrel at a time, I thought it was time to experiment with doing a half barrel at a time. I wanted to try this to allow the cavitation bubbles to hit as much of the chip surface as possible. I did notice an improvement and less redo chips having to back in after each round.

Some notes after going through this process:

  1. I wouldn't go above 70 °C on the US. I felt like I was pushing the envelope at those temps but I tested with a couple at first prior to doing 20 at a time.
  2. Some chips still have very mild traces of the yellow film still on them but only ever so slightly and you have to look closer to see it. I removed the remaining traces to the best of my ability with magic erasers and some good elbow grease.
  3. The chips will be really dry to the touch and very grippy when stacked right after they completely dry from the ultrasonic and as a result of that, I highly recommend using mineral oil on them. Not only does the mineral oil help remedy the dryness while providing them with that luster they so desperately deserve, but I noticed the mineral oil also helps rub off any remaining yellow film that was missed by the ultrasonic.
  4. I was curious if the high water temp would help with the really badly warped chips. Was a bit skeptical since I thought pressure must be applied in order to flatten them. To my surprise, not only did it help but it was a significant improvement leaving very little flattening work to do afterwards. I was shocked.

They aren't in front of me as I'm writing this as I had to deal with a family emergency, but I'll post the before and after pics tomorrow for everyone to see.
 
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Another update to the methods I've been trying mainly using the ultrasonic.

Did another round of cleaning and was trying several different things during this process to monitor differences.

1) The water I used this time was at 70 °C, which is 158 °F. Yes I know sounds like it's too much for the chips but I really didn't feel like it was. Considering the chips were probably originally molded at a higher temperature, I had a feeling that temperature wasn't going to harm them. I used just the TSP by itself without adding the Dawn dish soap at first. Ran a barrel in the US for 5 minutes and took them out. I'm pretty sure that it wasn't as effective as it was when I mixed in the Dawn. To confirm, I put in 2 TBSP of Dawn and did another round on the same barrel for 3 minutes. Took the barrel out and noticed it did a really good job. There were a couple that weren't as good as I wanted them to be so I kept those on the side as re-do's that would go in with the next barrel.

2) After trying out one barrel at a time, I thought it was time to experiment with doing a half barrel at a time. I wanted to try this to allow the cavitation bubbles to hit as much of the chip surface as possible. I did notice an improvement and less redo chips having to back in after each round.

Some notes after going through this process:

  1. I wouldn't go above 70 °C on the US. I felt like I was pushing the envelope at those temps but I tested with a couple at first prior to doing 20 at a time.
  2. Some chips still have very mild traces of the yellow film still on them but only ever so slightly and you have to look closer to see it. I removed the remaining traces to the best of my ability with magic erasers and some good elbow grease.
  3. The chips will be really dry to the touch and very grippy when stacked right after they completely dry from the ultrasonic and as a result of that, I highly recommend using mineral oil on them. Not only does the mineral oil help remedy the dryness while providing them with that luster they so desperately deserve, but I noticed the mineral oil also helps rub off any remaining yellow film that was missed by the ultrasonic.
  4. I was curious if the high water temp would help with the really badly warped chips. Was a bit skeptical since I thought pressure must be applied in order to flatten them. To my surprise, not only did it help but it was a significant improvement leaving very little flattening work to do afterwards. I was shocked.

They aren't in front of me as I'm writing this as I had to deal with a family emergency, but I'll post the before and after pics tomorrow for everyone to see.
158 degrees F is about the temp I was using while doing the testing for the heating pad method of flattening. At that temp, the chips are definitely softened and more malleable.
As I was reading your post, I wondered if the process you were using would somehow “relax” the chip a bit, and sure enough, that was your experience!
The only thing I would recommend is that when they are at that temp after the US, they should be handled carefully until they cool...they’re soft like cookies fresh out of the oven! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
 
I gotta say I'm quite surprised. I ran them though my U/S for 30 minutes at 48 degrees with just TSP. Plenty of yellow still left on them; my gloves had it all over them after setting the chips out to dry.

Maybe I'll have to try dawn + higher temps...
 
Interesting I thought I always read that the higher temperatures caused fading. Is that not the case with what you’ve seen. So many old rules of thumb being destroyed, the other one was that dish soap wasn’t good in Ultrasonics.
 

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