putting a label over a hotstamped chip (1 Viewer)

xdan

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Hi All

if i grab some paulsons which are hot-stamped, can you place a sticker ontop without it looking shit?

will the indents of the hot-stamp show through the sticker?
 

Mental Nomad

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Depends on the thickness of your sticker. Also, the raised edges of clay that got hot-pressed can prevent the sticker from adhering well.

Most people mill the hot-stamps - put a flat (chisel) bit in a drill press, clamp a half-box jig in place to center your chips, set the depth properly, and you can mill chip after chip making a flat surface for labeling.
 

200 Motels

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Here's a few pics of samples I got.


IMG_20150115_003813.jpgIMG_20150115_003911.jpgIMG_20150115_004037.jpgIMG_20150115_004045.jpgIMG_20150116_052937.jpg

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Much less noticeable on the laminated labels. Pinks didn't spin, but the two blue chips I labeled did have a slight spin with the labels on.
 
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tigon

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Thanks 200! I was waiting for someone to make a post about Derbys and labels just like yours. Were both the glossy and textured laminated vinyl too high for the recesses of the $3 chips?
 

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Thanks 200! I was waiting for someone to make a post about Derbys and labels just like yours. Were both the glossy and textured laminated vinyl too high for the recesses of the $3 chips?

I only tried the Glossy Vinyl Textured Laminate. They only spin slightly and only if it's two specific sides. I gather smooth laminate would be fine as they work fine on the pink 2s. Small sample size though, could just be lucky/unlucky.
 

Wifey

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I only tried the Glossy Vinyl Textured Laminate. They only spin slightly and only if it's two specific sides. I gather smooth laminate would be fine as they work fine on the pink 2s. Small sample size though, could just be lucky/unlucky.

What great pics!!! Can Gear and I reference this thread if other folks ask him about this kind of thing?

The sample set Gear sells is just that, a sample of not only media, but size as well.
When/If you decide to place an order, we may ask for a sample of the chips If we don't have a sample in our collection.
This is to ensure the labels are precisely the right size for your chip. (He has some fancy digital measuring tool thingy...)

Gear understands everyone's preferences are a bit different, an will work with you to ensure you get exactly what you want.
 

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The stiffer labels don't show the ridges of the hot stamps through the lables, but they're probably still standing on those edges. That means they sit higher and also aren't adhering to as much surface. If you try milling them, I'll bet you don't have any spinners. For test purposes, you can use a flat chisel to scrape off the high edges of the hotstamps and get a mostly-flat surface and see how much it helps.

You don't have to get them perfect, you just need to get all the ridges off so the labels are sticking to more flat surface.

Here's pic I found online of someone who milled the starbursts off of Paulson roulettes on a lathe - that's a little overkill! I think he's getting read to do new hot-stamps, but that's not recommended, as the chips are more likely to break the second time they're hot-stamped.

cPdVPa6.jpg
 

Wifey

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The stiffer labels don't show the ridges of the hot stamps through the lables, but they're probably still standing on those edges. That means they sit higher and also aren't adhering to as much surface. If you try milling them, I'll bet you don't have any spinners. For test purposes, you can use a flat chisel to scrape off the high edges of the hotstamps and get a mostly-flat surface and see how much it helps.

You don't have to get them perfect, you just need to get all the ridges off so the labels are sticking to more flat surface.

Here's pic I found online of someone who milled the starbursts off of Paulson roulettes on a lathe - that's a little overkill! I think he's getting read to do new hot-stamps, but that's not recommended, as the chips are more likely to break the second time they're hot-stamped.

Gear uses a drill press and some fancy flat drill bit. He built a jig and has gotten pretty fast...
Make sure you practice before you start in on the set you want to label, those first ones he did were pretty funny.
He does offer the service, <cough> if you don't want to spend all the time and money on building your own set up.

He is teaching me the ropes, "unskilled" labour and all... (believe me, you don't want me near the electronics...)
 

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Don't sell yourself short... there's definitely skill to manual labor, and if you have a knack for it, you wouldn't be the first woman to be a better craftsman than her man.

I haven't milled chips, but I've spent time at a drill press. I suspect the trick is to hold or clamp the chip tight, but run the drill down with a gentle touch. Men are more liable to try to muscle it down to speed things up, which is liable to get the bit to bind in the chip and screw things up.
 

RussB42

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Just take an X-ACTO with a chisel blade 1/2 inch wide, scrape off the raised part of the H/S and apply a Vinyl label.(non Laminated)

I have done several K this way and the all looked fine when done.

This is very easy to do....
 

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Just take an X-ACTO with a chisel blade 1/2 inch wide, scrape off the raised part of the H/S and apply a Vinyl label.(non Laminated)

I have done several K this way and the all looked fine when done.

This is very easy to do....

I'll try it on a few to see how it goes.
 

KingZilla

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I really like this idea. I've labelled hot stamped chips but they didn't have the raised surfaces. I was able to remove the foil with plain rubbing alcohol (dipped a q-tip in and just rubbed them). I would use RussB42's method and follow up with the alcohol treatment.
Good Luck.
Just take an X-ACTO with a chisel blade 1/2 inch wide, scrape off the raised part of the H/S and apply a Vinyl label.(non Laminated)

I have done several K this way and the all looked fine when done.

This is very easy to do....
 

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Just take an X-ACTO with a chisel blade 1/2 inch wide, scrape off the raised part of the H/S and apply a Vinyl label.(non Laminated)

I have done several K this way and the all looked fine when done.

This is very easy to do....


I've dug a few hotstamps out. The Lucky Derby side seems to turn out fine but the scrapes are visible on the denom side underneath the label. What should I do differently? It's not as noticeable as the unscraped at all really. But the grooves are still visible.
 

BGinGA

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I've dug a few hotstamps out. The Lucky Derby side seems to turn out fine but the scrapes are visible on the denom side underneath the label. What should I do differently? It's not as noticeable as the unscraped at all really. But the grooves are still visible.

Which are still visible: the hot-stamp grooves, or the dug-out grooves? Done properly, there shouldn't be any digging out or dug-out grooves.... just scraping off the high parts of the melted material that was displaced during the hot-stamp process -- using the flat side of the x-acto blade.
 

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Which are still visible: the hot-stamp grooves, or the dug-out grooves? Done properly, there shouldn't be any digging out or dug-out grooves.... just scraping off the high parts of the melted material that was displaced during the hot-stamp process -- using the flat side of the x-acto blade.


After some practice, the quality of the smoothing is better. What's your thoughts on labeling one side of the Lucky Derbys?

I'm thinking pros.

* half as many labels (cheaper)
* half as much x-acto scraping
* beautiful Derby Hotstamp stays in tact.

Cons.

* inconsistent looking
 

ParrotheadMZ

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After some practice, the quality of the smoothing is better. What's your thoughts on labeling one side of the Lucky Derbys?

I'm thinking pros.

* half as many labels (cheaper)
* half as much x-acto scraping
* beautiful Derby Hotstamp stays in tact.

Cons.

* inconsistent looking
Way too many cons:p Label both sides or your OCD side will kick in if you don't already have one;)
 

RussB42

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I have always used 2mil non-laminated labels.

When scraping the H/S be very careful not to nic the inside of the recess.

There are lots and lots of Pic's of some I have done on CT.

Don't have any left or would post pic's.
 

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Has anyone tried using a filler on the recesses of the hot stamp after scraping off the ridges? It seems that would allow for thinner vinyl labels, which might be necessary on older hot-stamped chips to avoid spinner.
 

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I have always used 2mil non-laminated labels.

When scraping the H/S be very careful not to nic the inside of the recess.

There are lots and lots of Pic's of some I have done on CT.

Don't have any left or would post pic's.

I went thought a bunch of your CT posts but don't see any. Gotta link?
 

luckbox

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to do it right i think milling is the only way to come out with a decent looking result, alot of threads at ct on this subject..i am always looking for an excuse to buy a dremel tool and thought that may work a bit better but have not tried that yet....just a thought
 

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to do it right i think milling is the only way to come out with a decent looking result, alot of threads at ct on this subject..i am always looking for an excuse to buy a dremel tool and thought that may work a bit better but have not tried that yet....just a thought

I think if you go hand-held, it's much too easy for the it to catch and jump off the recess, and you can mar your chips. You may have a very steady hand, but by the time you get to chip three hundred and forty five, second side....
 

luckbox

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I think if you go hand-held, it's much too easy for the it to catch and jump off the recess, and you can mar your chips. You may have a very steady hand, but by the time you get to chip three hundred and forty five, second side....

yeah but i was thinking if you lightly used it just to get the high spots off and try to smooth it out somewhat...i am sure even then with a thin label you will still see the indents sort of...but it might be a legit excuse for me to buy a dremel to try it :)

milling is the best method to remove hotstamps if i had to vote on it.....after i got tired of trying a few different ideas, i stumbled onto these and made a trade for them, asm a molds with the label removed , now i need to design a label, its a future project

DSC03249.jpg
 
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BGinGA

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Has anyone tried using a filler on the recesses of the hot stamp after scraping off the ridges? It seems that would allow for thinner vinyl labels, which might be necessary on older hot-stamped chips to avoid spinner.

Seems like I remember a filler discussion on ct, but have no recall beyond that....


EDIT: Okay, went searching, and found several discussions regarding chip filler/spackle -- mostly questions, very few answers. wartdog said he was going to do some experimentation with fillers, but never posted a followup or any results. BigBrando mentioned using superglue to fill hot-stamp voids, and links_slayer stated that drywall mud worked well -- but I'm unsure if he was kidding or not...
 
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RussB42

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Sorry about pic's

CT Poker Chip Gallery, pg 20, Mega Pron TX Armadillo.

I'll try and find more, don't know where my Album went.

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I tried filler, and causes more prob's than it's worth.

Couldn't get the recess smooth enough to where the labels looked better than just scraping the H/S.

If you want really smooth labels on the chip, then just label an Inlayed Chip and eliminate many many hours of scraping.
 

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Seems to me that full milling should worth it, so that the label does not float on top of the chip, or create a trough around the label edge. Goal should be to get the label as flush as an inlay, with little or no gap, to the extent possible.

Otherwise, it’s always going to look like a label.
 
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