LOL! my cat and dog only met once. Then cat lives happily in a 2nd floor private room by herself, staring down upon every insect below, while dog lives downstairs.“Human sacrifice, dogs and cats living together, mass hysteria!”
-Dr. Peter Venkman
Good idea! Since I have weighted color chips, am I still able to use those unweighted colors as edge spot color? Does it affect anything? (I thought if I choose weighted color, I have to stick with those colors...)Nice idea.
$1 and $5 are fine.
$25 try probably Blurple edge instead of Dark Blue - or use Dark Green if you want something really dark. You could have a different yellow also (DG I 'd say) , not to repeat the Canary.
The black $100 definitely needs lighter edge spots: I would use Light Blue and Pink (or Retro Lavender at the darkest). Or DG Arc Yellow.
A ND chip might also be useful, as frac or anything.
Thanks for the info! For the colors, if I have one chip with both base and edge using weighted color, and another chip using weighted color base and unweighted color edge, does that mean the second chip is lighter in weight???You can have any combination of weighted and unweighted colors, and even use the latter as base colors, at a premium.
ND is Non-Denominated, so you can assign to it any value that fits your game each time.
Frac is for fractional (below $1) values, be it .50, .25 or even .20 (the latter, I guess not in the USA)
Edit: Don't even attempt to arrive to any conclusion about color combos before having a CPC color sample set in your hands!
Got it. Thanks for the info!I believe you can mix unweighted and weighted no problem - using unweighted spots will have negligible impact on the total chip weight.
Personally I would do a $20 in a cash set instead of a $25. For the same reason as you do a quarter instead of 20c. Also keeps the multiple in a consistent pattern.
.25 x 4 = 1
1 x 5 = 5
5 x 4 = 20
20 x 5 = 100
instead of
.25 x 4 = 1
1 x 5 = 5
5 x 5 = 25
25 x 4 = 100
Of course, if you ever plan on using these chips as part of a tournament set (not recommended but budget friendly) then $25 is better.
Negligible difference, if any at all.Thanks for the info! For the colors, if I have one chip with both base and edge using weighted color, and another chip using weighted color base and unweighted color edge, does that mean the second chip is lighter in weight???
I'm only planning to play with family(most often) and a couple of close friends(occasionally). We play for like 2 hours after dinner on not-very-busy days.Negligible difference, if any at all.
By the way, I 'm in the 20 camp too, especially for cash. It's not right or wrong, but a matter of preference. Vastly experienced and knowledgeable members here would vote for 25 though (this issue has been talked to death - search).
If you 're going to play tourneys too, the forum's doctrine is to get a different set, for game security, unless you 're sure you 'll only ever play single-table, with childhood friends and family. In the latter case, you breakdown would have to be a little bit more top-heavy.
If you 're bound for a second set for tourneys, and want to stick with top clay chips, you can spend less by getting a CPC off-the-shelf set (Rounders, Atlantic Club, American Eagle) or a Key West set, also made by CPC but offered by a name-sake vendor, at an excellent price.
Yeah I got the HS sample and AC horsehead sample. They feel very nice.I need to pause for a moment to say that committing to over a $1000 investment for custom chips for a $2 buyin game is so awesome I can't even explain it. Good for you. Get what you like.
The weight difference between weighted and unweighted colors is not drastic. I would recommend getting some samples from CPC before you pull the trigger. There's really no substitute for seeing the colors in person. $48 for a full color sample set is kind of a lot, but with those shaped inlays you've lined up some pretty expensive designs anyway. Samples of some of CPC's stock designs could also give you some sense of a few of the colors. For example, you can get a $16 Atlantic Club sample set, which like your design has a Mandarin Red $5 (and canary spots), a green $25, and black $100. The $12 Atlantic Club Hot Stamps set has some of your colors and some of the Dayglo colors (Mandarin Red, Black, DG Peacock, DG Green, DG Yellow, DG Tiger, and Retro Lavender), although you don't get to see any edge spots in that set.
Ah I forgot the ordering requirement for 4 different chips. Thanks for the reminder. By T400, do you mean I buy total 400 chips?If you 're already having denominations representing cents, not even dimes, apparently there is no need for a frac
I don't know how practical the cash-out is in this type of game, so you might want to make it a 2USD buy-in T400/500 tourney anyway.
Minimum quantities per player in that case would be 10X $1, 10X $5 (8 in starting stack and 2 for removing $1s), 12X $25 (10 in starting stack and 2 for removing $5s) and one or two $100s (one for T400, two for T500 starting stack) plus 4 or 5 $100s per player for a full rebuy / add-on.
Remember that you have to get at least 400 chips total, in order to make 4 different (types of) custom chips, with CPC.
Got it. This seems a little complex, but I'll definitely keep it in case we want to try different plays.T400 means a tourney with a starting stack of 400 play dollars per player, which can cost to buy from nothing (free roll) to $400 indeed.
In tournaments, stakes go up at preset periods of time and players are eliminated as the game gets more and more expensive (in T money at least). The last remaining player, to have gathered all the chips in play, is the winner. The prize can range from millions of $ in World Series to a glass of wine in family games.
Here is a small social single table tourney structure:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/structure-help-for-small-social-stt.27849/