Oblong Octogon table. Anyone build one or have advice? (1 Viewer)

Sparkynutz

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Played at a friend's house a few times lately using a pool table as the poker table. It seated all 10 of us very comfortably even tho dealing kinda sucked for anyone on the end. The corner pockets worked well for bottles of beer and couldn't tip over since they were down in the pockets.

I'm hosting a 3-4 table poker tournament in a few weeks and putting together some seating options. I currently use a Barrington table from Menards as my main table which seats 8 fairly well.The rest of my 72" standard folding tables don't seat more than 6 comfortably.

I have a 49"x97"x3/4" sheet of Melamine that I've used many years on saw horses to put crap on when hosting garage sales.
I put a nice edge on it and rounded the corners with a router then painted the exposed edge with about 10 coats of thick rubberized paint.
I will be ordering some 31" HD folding legs from casino supply as soon as they are back in stock any day now.
I have a standard size cheap poker mat to throw on it for this event.

It got me thinking about building or buying another decent dedicated main table. I may or may not use this melamine and legs for the base of the build.

I dislike racetrack tables.
I dislike the cupholders in the padded rail on my barrington.
I want to seat 10 comfortably and have plenty of room for an extra long wide table.
I really like the looks of the table below but think drinks may get in the way or may not comfy on the arms.
I also really like the deep recess of playing on the pool table making me want a raised thick padded rail.
Has anyone made basicly what my ideal table is?
I'm handy with woodworking and father runs a cabinet shop so building would be the easy part. Putting padding on the goofy angles is what scares me.

Any thoughts?
 

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Played at a friend's house a few times lately using a pool table as the poker table. It seated all 10 of us very comfortably even tho dealing kinda sucked for anyone on the end. The corner pockets worked well for bottles of beer and couldn't tip over since they were down in the pockets.

I'm hosting a 3-4 table poker tournament in a few weeks and putting together some seating options. I currently use a Barrington table from Menards as my main table which seats 8 fairly well.The rest of my 72" standard folding tables don't seat more than 6 comfortably.

I have a 49"x97"x3/4" sheet of Melamine that I've used many years on saw horses to put crap on when hosting garage sales.
I put a nice edge on it and rounded the corners with a router then painted the exposed edge with about 10 coats of thick rubberized paint.
I will be ordering some 31" HD folding legs from casino supply as soon as they are back in stock any day now.
I have a standard size cheap poker mat to throw on it for this event.

It got me thinking about building or buying another decent dedicated main table. I may or may not use this melamine and legs for the base of the build.

I dislike racetrack tables.
I dislike the cupholders in the padded rail on my barrington.
I want to seat 10 comfortably and have plenty of room for an extra long wide table.
I really like the looks of the table below but think drinks may get in the way or may not comfy on the arms.
I also really like the deep recess of playing on the pool table making me want a raised thick padded rail.
Has anyone made basicly what my ideal table is?
I'm handy with woodworking and father runs a cabinet shop so building would be the easy part. Putting padding on the goofy angles is what scares me.

Any thoughts?
Stretching the vinyl (or whatever your rail material is) over a those corners would be easier than a curved table, imo. Tuck and fold over each corner as you stretch would be easier than all those little creases that I see on curved rails.
And no cup holders is a good idea. Drinks can go on rolling carts.
 
Unfortunately I no longer have a good picture of it, but the first table I built was an oblong octagon. I used 2x6s for the rails, individually wrapped each piece with vinyl, and screwed them on from the underside of the table. Definitely not how I would do it today, but it worked.

Fwiw, melamine is not a great product to use for a table. It will sag over time without continuous support.
 
Unfortunately I no longer have a good picture of it, but the first table I built was an oblong octagon. I used 2x6s for the rails, individually wrapped each piece with vinyl, and screwed them on from the underside of the table. Definitely not how I would do it today, but it worked.

Fwiw, melamine is not a great product to use for a table. It will sag over time without continuous support.

May not be a great Idea but I bet it worked and easy to take off to fix anything that gets wrecked. It would stiffen up the table too. Something I need to do either way with this melamine.

I saw two more tables I really liked the looks of as well. One was boat shaped on here and the other is below found for sale for $600.

Thinking more and the dual usage of this table a few 2x4s coveted in padding with the nut fasteners should stiffen up the melamine enough. Maybe I can get by with an Amazon table topper 35x70 to cover the t nuts through the table top holding the legs on. There would be a slight racetrack left between mat and rail but oh well. I could remove the rails easily and still use for garage sales too.
 

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Best advice I can offer is that oval >>> elongated hex in actual play conditions.

Oval offers muliple seating configurations to fit crowd size, while the hex is always fixed seating positions (regardless of the number of players).

If you will always have exactly 8 players, hex is fine (but offers no advantages). If not, then oval is considerably better due to flexibility to comfortably accommodate fewer (or more) players.
 
How did you like it? Was it over 8ft long?

I thought it played well. It was easier for seats 2 & 8 and 4 & 6 to see each other. I'm pretty sure it was 8' long. The cupholders were handy in the rail. I retired the table because it was solid oak and way too heavy to move around.
 

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