My Man Cave Remodel (2 Viewers)

[Tommy]

We got the soffit done. Bottom side has 1/4". Unfortunately the drywall supplier did not have it in 10ft so we had to pick up 3 sheets. We were trying to have just one butt joint at the column since most of it would get covered up there. Oh well.

The subfloor is going in before we box in the column.

 

[Tommy]

Major change in the sub-flooring. Originally I was going to go with Delta-FL underlayment and 1/2 Plywood. While I was at the drywall supply place, I saw a product called TyROC.

http://www.tyrocinc.com/

After some research and talking with the Canadian manufacture, I decided to go with this product. Its's about a $500 more to do the TyROC vs the Delta-FL system but the installation is much easier and there is no wood and tapcons involved.

http://www.tyrocinc.com/actual-tyroc-installations/

I'll be picking up 166 pieces of it on Tuesday to do 885 SQ Ft. The panels are 16" x 48" and can be passed through the basement window.

 

[Tommy]

They are calling for lots of rain tomorrow so I picked up the Tyroc today and got all 166 pieces down into the basement.

Had to do it myself since my buddy was only available tomorrow. Carried 4 to 5 at a time. Wasn't too bad.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3

 

[Mr. Cheese]

Looks like fun carrying all that into the basement lol. At least you got your cardio workout in at the same time

 

[Tommy]

LOL, its better than carrying 80 sheets of drywall down the basement in the middle of the summer. I think it was 90+ and very humid that day.

Working on installing the switches today.

\

 

[Tommy]

Holy crap! My Cree LED bulbs just came via UPS. I cannot believe how the moron packed them! They just tossed the loose ones into a box, no packing material either and just shipped them. They are all broken!!





I just call Home Depot. Heading to the local store to exchange them. They do not sell the discounted 4 packs in the store so that is why I bought them online.
They are $19.99 each in the store and the 4 pack is $68.

 

[Tommy]

Just got back from Home Depot. I returned all 16 of them. I said that even though some are not visually broken, I don't want to take the chance that some could be damaged internally from bouncing around in a poorly packed box. They got 16 off the shelf and gave them to me at the 4 pack price. I used a $25 off $250 or more Lowes coupon that came in the mail today and Home Depot matched it.

 

[Tommy]

Finally got all the wires that were hanging out of the walls cut back and folded inside the multi gang boxes. 12 wire is a PITA to work with. If I were to do it over again, I would of used 14 wire and ran two circuits to cover the possible max load.

The switches are just in temp so I wasn't worried about making them perfectly straight right now. Will pull them off the wall a little when it comes time to paint.


This is the main bank of master dimmers. (near the wet bar) The other areas have companion dimmers. Love the fade to off feature.
(still have to spackle the other side of the corner there too )

 

[Trihonda]

Ah hem... Been a while since we've had an update!

 

[Tommy]

Sadly there is not much to report. We are going to be back at it this Mon and Tues.

I have been testing some polyurethane and solvent based construction adhesives to make sure the TyRoc sub-floor will be installed properly. The TyRoc manufacturer recommends a poly construction adhesive but I was not getting good results on some test pieces I cut up. I am basically gluing rubber and compressed magnesium oxide board. Liquid Nails LN-950 Polyurethane did not bond well. I was able to break the glued pieces apart after 24 hrs by just flexing the joint. I tried PL-400, a solvent based adhesive, it held much better but TyRoc recommends and only warranties the product if you use a polyurethane construction adhesive. I tested some PL Premium Poly and it is holding very well.



I was also laying out the bathroom to get some measurements. My sewer pipe is 3 ft above the slab so I will be using a SaniFlow upflow system. I have the commercial grade model that will handle a shower, toilette, and vanity+. (The wetbar sink drain will Y into bathroom vanity drain line.)



Getting the wires at the column secured. Will be boxing that in soon.




I do have some good news. A guy a work has a friend who installs granite countertops. He has a few leftover pieces and said that I can have any of them for free. He will also cut the sink in for me for free if I bring him the template. That saves a few hundred bucks!

 

[Tommy]

Organizing pics and cleaning out the computer today. Found a couple of pics from the very beginning of this project.


Windows that the previous homeowner bricked over because of the wood stove that was installed in that corner.


Close up after I removed some bricks.


Bricks I saved to brick up the window that goes into the garage. (the garage was extended and the windows was originally an outside window. See post 25 for pic)


Some pics installing the 2" XPS foam board






Sanded, primed, and painted the old metal window frames with some semi-gloss Rustoleum

 

[Mr. Cheese]

Looks like its coming along nicely! Before you know it you'll be done and you'll have your nice cabinet with your Terrible's in it

 

[Tommy]

Some flash patching today.

Sent from my Galaxy Note 3.

 

[Tommy]

Got the column done today. Still have to install the corner beads. Subfloor going in tomorrow.

 

[Tommy]

We got most of the subfloor in today. The TyRoc is easy to work with.

 

[Mr. Cheese]

Wow coming along nicely Tommy! Can't wait for the 1st Annual PCF Tourney Extravaganza in your new man cave

 

[Tommy]

Thanks. Very tired today. My legs and back are killing me.

 

[Tommy]

Nothing to report. Took a break due to the holidays and lots of OT at work. Back at it next weekend.

 

[ttttubby]

I'm reading this with equal parts awe and despair. I had a contractor look at my basement to do something similar (though only 450 square ft. + a bathroom.) Cost range between 19k and 26k (way more than I can afford). I'd like to tackle the job myself, but I think I'd be in way over my head. Sad thing is that my wife's dad had decades of construction experience but he passed several years ago. I have next to no experience whatsoever. This job looks amazing and it looks like you'll have one hell of a man cave.

 

[Tommy]

Thanks. I just can't wait until it is finally finished. My poker table w/ glass top is in our dining room which has been my home office since the start of the project. The wife is not thrilled about that.

 

[ttttubby]

You still anywhere around your budget of $6k? Or has that been expanded?

 

[Tommy]

You still anywhere around your budget of $6k? Or has that been expanded?

Well over! I did expand the remodel a bit to finish more area so there is a little added cost from that.

I would estimate when all said and done, probably $14k in materials. I can't remember if I included doing a full or half bath and wetbar when I said about $6k. I know the subfloor was only going to be $650 using the Delta-FL plus the cost of 22 sheet of 1/2" plywood and Tapcons. The TyRoc added some cost but the ease of installation was well worth it.

 

[Tommy]

Finished up the rest of the subfloor today. Had a little more to do in the office and under the stairs. Only had 3 pieces of TyRoc left.



We also got the rest of the corner bead on the the column and other side of soffit.





Started working on the bathroom in the afternoon. Unpacked the shower kit and brought all the pieces from the garage into the basement. We test fitted everything and started to build the platform for the shower.

 

[Mr. Cheese]

So this may be a dumb question, but why do you have to put a subfloor in? In all the houses I've been in the floors are concrete and we just put whatever finishing surface (carpet etc) over the concrete floor.

 

[Tommy]

There are a few reasons to use sub-floor products like TyRoc, Delta-FL, Dricore, on a basement concrete floor. Where you live and if a vapor barrier was installed before they poured the floor are very important also. I basically installed it for a moisture and thermal barrier.

Here some info on Delta-Fl. It is pretty much the same for all the products I mentioned.

In a conventional basement, dry air in the living space acts as a "magnet" for water vapor migrating up through the concrete. The air-gap created by DELTA®-FL allows the water vapor pressure above and below the concrete slab to equalize, while preventing the moisture to migrate further inwards. Hence, moisture does not affect the flooring material, and your basement area stays dry and comfortable. The membrane also provides a thermal break, which increases the comfort in your basement and makes the floor feel warmer.

 

[Mr. Cheese]

There are a few reasons to use sub-floor products like TyRoc, Delta-FL, Dricore, on a basement concrete floor. Where you live and if a vapor barrier was installed before they poured the floor are very important also. I basically installed it for a moisture and thermal barrier.

Here some info on Delta-Fl. It is pretty much the same for all the products I mentioned.

Oh ok that makes sense

 

[Tommy]

We finished up most of the drywall on Tuesday. A couple areas still need another coat. We used 6 buckets of joint compound already.

We haven't did any sanding yet. If you have central air or heat, make sure to turn it off! You don't want drywall dust sucked into your returns. I will be hanging plastic to keep the drywall dust from getting upstairs and in the laundry room.




















Testing the fit for the access panel.

 

[Mr. Cheese]

You're one step closer to hosting a poker game down there

 

[CdnBeerLover]

It's looking really nice. I'm jealous of the space you have there.

 

[Tommy]

Thanks. I ordered the doors today. Trying to decide if I want to do carpet cove baseboard or just wood.