Lets talk folding legs... (1 Viewer)

[UTGPoker]

I have a table I built myself and I got standard $35 a set folding legs from Home Depot. I need to have the table be portable because of space constraints, so folding legs are a requirement. The legs I got constantly creak, and the table wabbles a bit when people lean on it...

I found these
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000W...0_SY165_QL70&keywords=folding+legs+heavy+duty
But they are kinda expensive at $124.

What have you guys used? Help!

 

[MikesDad]

I used the Home Depot legs on two tables that I build and have been using for a couple of years with no problems.
Don't recall creaking, but I agree the table can wobble if people lean on it

If you get the $124 legs, please post a review

 

[BGinGA]

One solution for portable or stored poker tables is to use a manufactured table (with folding legs) as your base, instead of permanently attaching folding legs. Table sizes of 4', 5', or 6' length can be used (depending on your table-top dimensions), and some of those even fold in half for even smaller storage requirements.

Simply attach 1x2 wood blocks on the underside of your table top to secure it's position when placed on the manufactured table. If the resulting product is too high, you can easily shorten the table legs (remove the end caps, shorten to desired length with a hacksaw, and reattach the end caps).

Works like a charm, and many of these tables have a stance that results in a much more stationary end product than simply adding legs to plywood. Bonus is you always have a portable (folding) table handy that can be used for other purposes, too.

 

[ruskba]

One solution for portable or stored poker tables is to use a manufactured table (with folding legs) as your base, instead of permanently attaching folding legs. Table sizes of 4', 5', or 6' length can be used (depending on your table-top dimensions), and some of those even fold in half for even smaller storage requirements.

Simply attach 1x2 wood blocks on the underside of your table top to secure it's position when placed on the manufactured table. If the resulting product is too high, you can easily shorten the table legs (remove the end caps, shorten to desired length with a hacksaw, and reattach the end caps).

Works like a charm, and many of these tables have a stance that results in a much more stationary end product than simply adding legs to plywood. Bonus is you always have a portable (folding) table handy that can be used for other purposes, too.

This is what I do. Except I don't even have the 1x2 blocks to hold it in place. Haven't had an issue with it sliding or anything. Though depending on how much overhang there is, and how the table is built, you may have a little warping/tilting if someone really leans heavy on a side or end. But even that doesn't really cause problems.

 

[UTGPoker]

Do you guys have any specific table suggestions, there are lots of options on Home Depot, Lowes, and Walmart.

Is it worth paying the extra $30-$40 for the higher quality table?

 

[ruskba]

I'd just make sure it's the right size. We have two, one folds and the other doesn't. The folding one is a decent amount shorter. You just don't want to end up with too much overhang on the ends.

 

[BGinGA]

I have three (4' non-folding, 5' folding, and 6' folding). Which one gets used depends on the length of the table top itself. You don't want any part of the supporting table extending beyond the playing surface and rail.

The more expensive ones are worth it, imo. You should be able to pick one up for between $59-$99, depending on size.

Do you guys have any specific table suggestions

I'd avoid the tables with straight legs.

 

[Steve5k]

I used 2 table bases similar to these for my table and they're really stable. I'm not going back to folding legs anymore!

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/lan...30-black-metal-table-base/34920330 BL.html

Here's what I did to make the bases detachable: when I installed these on my table, I penciled out an outline on the underside of the tabletop where these bases would attach, then added about 4" outward, and squared it off. I then cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to that squared-off shape and permanently attached it to the underside of the tabletop using 1 1/4" screws. Now I have a depth of 1 1/2" to work with to attach the bases to, assuming 3/4" ply was used for the tabletop playing surface. I then set the tabletop on the ground, underside up, and set the bases on the plywood exactly where I wanted them, and marked the location of the bolt holes on the plywood. At each of those locations I installed a threaded insert nut (there's now enough depth so it's not poking through the playing surface) and used a bolt with a flat and a cut washer to attach the base to the table. The bases I used have 8 holes on each, so I needed 16 threaded insert nuts, bolts, cut washers, etc. It only takes a few minutes to get the bases on and off.

It's a little more money but if you can find a storage solution for the bases when the table is not in use I think it's a very sturdy option. Oh, you may have to cut the height of the legs down a little, too.

 

[bivey]

i just put Rockler legs on my table build. $104.

 

[UTGPoker]

i just put Rockler legs on my table build. $104.

How do you like em?

 

[UTGPoker]

I used 2 table bases similar to these for my table and they're really stable. I'm not going back to folding legs anymore!

http://www.webstaurantstore.com/lancaster-table-seating-30-black-metal-table-base/34920330 BL.html

Here's what I did to make the bases detachable: when I installed these on my table, I penciled out an outline on the underside of the tabletop where these bases would attach, then added about 4" outward, and squared it off. I then cut a piece of 3/4" plywood to that squared-off shape and permanently attached it to the underside of the tabletop using 1 1/4" screws. Now I have a depth of 1 1/2" to work with to attach the bases to, assuming 3/4" ply was used for the tabletop playing surface. I then set the tabletop on the ground, underside up, and set the bases on the plywood exactly where I wanted them, and marked the location of the bolt holes on the plywood. At each of those locations I installed a threaded insert nut (there's now enough depth so it's not poking through the playing surface) and used a bolt with a flat and a cut washer to attach the base to the table. The bases I used have 8 holes on each, so I needed 16 threaded insert nuts, bolts, cut washers, etc. It only takes a few minutes to get the bases on and off.

It's a little more money but if you can find a storage solution for the bases when the table is not in use I think it's a very sturdy option. Oh, you may have to cut the height of the legs down a little, too.

I was thinking of something like that, but I think I am going to try the folding table option for ease of use, but next build I might do this.

 

[bivey]

How do you like em?

It's still upside down letting some stain dry, but Rebelly and Links both used them before me. Redbelly likes his and I have played on the tables. Rock solid.

 

[UTGPoker]

It's still upside down letting some stain dry, but Rebelly and Links both used them before me. Redbelly likes his and I have played on the tables. Rock solid.

View attachment 27972

Damn, those look nice.

 

[Junior24xx]

I seem to recall a thread about the rockler legs. The verdict wasn't that great about them. I've iften wondered about them and would love to hear more.

 

[UTGPoker]

I bought a 6' folding table, testing it tonight.

 

[Jeff]

I seem to recall a thread about the rockler legs. The verdict wasn't that great about them. I've iften wondered about them and would love to hear more.

I have them on two of my 3 tables. They look great, there is a little wiggle long ways on both tables I've installed them on. Not enough to bother. The mechanism has a good lock open and shut.