Custom Set Help (1 Viewer)

StingRay

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Hello everyone! I am a total newcomer here and need a lot of help. First, a little about myself and what brings me here:

I am currently in the process of building a home with a a large enough game room to finally fit my own poker table. I have pretty much decided on BBO elite poker table. Now what I thought was the easy part was a chip set until I started researching :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:. I was about ready to pull the trigger on the Atlantic Club 500 set from CPC. Then I stumbled upon this forum and how I can do custom chips through them and I'm trying to decide if I should go that route. I have been playing for about 17 years now. It started off strictly online but nowadays I mainly travel the WSOP circuit. I have never really been a part of a home game and certainly never hosted one myself but I do spend a couple hours studying the game pretty much every day.

Here are a list of questions at the top of my head:

1) First of all, can someone recommend a designer for the inlay?
2) What's the difference with going with a $20 vs $25 chip. Is one better suited for cash vs tournament play?
3) Pros and Cons of putting a $ sign on the chip or not
4) Are there any rules regarding edgespots and colors in general? Ex. Do's and Don'ts
5) Any chips other than basic denominations to consider? Ex. Bounty
6) While browsing this site I noticed custom dealer buttons. I didn't see these on the CPC website. Best place for these?

Any other general guidelines or list of do's and don't would be greatly appreciated!
 

raynmanas

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first off, welcome! and GET SAMPLES of anything you are considering - everything is different in person than on a computer screen, and you just don't know what you will end up liking best until you are able to handle them.

1. off the top of my head, @Johnny5, @p5woody, @timinater, @JeepologyOffroad all contract chip design work for members here, and they all do great work. there may be others i am forgetting, and i apologize to them if so.
2. $20 vs $25 for cash is personal preference. seems more and more going to $20 lately, but $25 is probably still more common. i personally went $20 for my custom set, but that was more for non-poker reasons. i don't think i've ever seen a T20 chip in common use.
3. cash vs tourney, basically. most people will recommend keeping separate cash/tourney sets for security reasons, even if you don't think you have security reasons.
4. nah, do whatever looks good to you. obviously there are most common chip color progressions, but they are your chips. also a lot of people prefer to keep the same edgespot pattern for an entire tourney set, but that is also personal preference (i didn't). people here will be more than happy to give honest feedback on your designs as you work through them.
5. bounty, seating, member chips are probably the most common.
6. ABC Gifts & Awards, they are a vendor here
 
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Coyote

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1. covered (see above)
2. $20 gets somewhat more chips on the felt and makes players less nitty
3. Certainly seperate sets, unless it's a single-table tourney with childhood friends and family. Even so, there should never be a tournament AND a cash game simultaneously or successively under the same roof. Beyond malice, there are mistakes out there too.
Unless your Tournament units cost the very same as your cash units (ie T5-T25-T100-T500 costing the same amount of cents, for a T2,000 tournament, provided that the buy-in is indeed $20).
4. No real rules, but see a lot, sleep on it and get taught (in the Galleries and Pr0n section)
5. Not really familiar with that
6.Indeed, as above
 

StingRay

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Thank you so much raynmanas, this is wonderful info!

I was kinda hoping to just do one set. I feel like most times I would want to do tournament or single table SNG. Therefore it makes sense to leave off the $. If I do decide to do a set of each, how secure would the chip design be? I am picturing a fairly basic inlay (similar to atlantic club). Couldn't someone just copy the design and submit to CPC if I were to do a set of cash only chips?
 

raynmanas

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Thank you so much raynmanas, this is wonderful info!

I was kinda hoping to just do one set. I feel like most times I would want to do tournament or single table SNG. Therefore it makes sense to leave off the $. If I do decide to do a set of each, how secure would the chip design be? I am picturing a fairly basic inlay (similar to atlantic club). Couldn't someone just copy the design and submit to CPC if I were to do a set of cash only chips?

i'm fairly certain CPC will not use your custom artwork/color combos for anyone else without your permission. regardless, that would be a ton of effort and cost, so unless you are playing ridiculous stakes, almost certainly not worth it for anyone anyway. the security issue i am actually referring to is regarding using the same chips for tourney and cash games. say you host a $25 tourney followed by a $0.25/$0.50 cash game for the players who bust out. if you use the same chips for both, someone could easily remove a $25 (as the lowest tourney denom) from the tourney, bust out, buy into the cash game, and then (accidentally or on purpose) add that $25 to their cash stack. boom, your bank is off by $25, and you don't know how, so you're stuck $25.

if you're only gonna play tourneys anyway, it's fine to just go with your plan and non-denoms. and honestly if you trust your players and you are careful, it most likely will never be an issue. but some people just dont like to take chances. plus you could always add on or buy a different cash set down the line if you decided to branch into cash games.
 
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GianThaMan

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I know you said you decided on a BBO table, but Chanman tables are even higher quality and offer much more customization. You pay a premium, but it's worth it, especially if it's the only table you'll use for the rest of your life.
 

StingRay

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2. $20 gets somewhat more chips on the felt and makes players less nitty

Interesting, that's a great point and I really like that. That's the kind of information I was looking for.

4. No real rules, but see a lot, sleep on it and get taught (in the Galleries and Pr0n section)

Your Athenian Owl Club set is actually what sent me down this rabbit hole. I mean that in the highest of compliments because I love your set and the story. Like I mentioned, I was ready to pull the trigger on the Atlantic Club but I figured I would create an account here and just test the waters about creating a custom set and now it's all I can think about.

[/QUOTE]
i'm fairly certain CPC will not use your custom artwork/color combos for anyone else without your permission. regardless, that would be a ton of effort and cost, so unless you are playing ridiculous stakes, almost certainly not worth it for anyone anyway. the security issue i am actually referring to is regarding using the same chips for tourney and cash games. say you host a $25 tourney followed by a $0.25/$0.50 cash game for the players who bust out. if you use the same chips for both, someone could easily remove a $25 (as the lowest tourney denom) from the tourney, bust out, buy into the cash game, and then (accidentally or on purpose) add that $25 to their cash stack. boom, your bank is off by $25, and you don't know how, so you're stuck $25.

if you're only gonna play tourneys anyway, it's fine to just go with your plan and non-denoms. and honestly if you trust your players and you are careful, it most likely will never be an issue. but some people just dont like to take chances. plus you could always add on or buy a different cash set down the line if you decided to branch into cash games.

I totally get the reasoning behind 2 sets, I just wasn't sure if I wanted to go down that path since I prefer a SNG format or small MTT. However, if I'm going to hire a designer and spend the time, I might as well since it may be easier to find cash players. However, you bring up an interesting point. Sorry to keep bringing up the Atlantic Club but I LOVE the color scheme!!! I was planning on using that color scheme with maybe 1 or 2 minor color tweaks, and of course the inlay and also choose a different mold. For arguments sake, if I kept the colors the exact same and just changed the inlay would CPC allow me to order the custom set?

I know you said you decided on a BBO table, but Chanman tables are even higher quality and offer much more customization. You pay a premium, but it's worth it, especially if it's the only table you'll use for the rest of your life.

Fantastic advice! That's the reason I signed up and included that. I mentioned I had decided on BBO but I hadn't pulled the trigger yet. I have a lot of research to do tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing what I can create with Chanman. I hadn't stumbled across them before.
 

GianThaMan

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Interesting, that's a great point and I really like that. That's the kind of information I was looking for.

4. No real rules, but see a lot, sleep on it and get taught (in the Galleries and Pr0n section)

Your Athenian Owl Club set is actually what sent me down this rabbit hole. I mean that in the highest of compliments because I love your set and the story. Like I mentioned, I was ready to pull the trigger on the Atlantic Club but I figured I would create an account here and just test the waters about creating a custom set and now it's all I can think about.
I totally get the reasoning behind 2 sets, I just wasn't sure if I wanted to go down that path since I prefer a SNG format or small MTT. However, if I'm going to hire a designer and spend the time, I might as well since it may be easier to find cash players. However, you bring up an interesting point. Sorry to keep bringing up the Atlantic Club but I LOVE the color scheme!!! I was planning on using that color scheme with maybe 1 or 2 minor color tweaks, and of course the inlay and also choose a different mold. For arguments sake, if I kept the colors the exact same and just changed the inlay would CPC allow me to order the custom set?
Fantastic advice! That's the reason I signed up and included that. I mentioned I had decided on BBO but I hadn't pulled the trigger yet. I have a lot of research to do tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing what I can create with Chanman. I hadn't stumbled across them before.
I’m pretty sure that CPC allows chips with identical edge spots and colors, as long as they have a different hot-stamp/inlay. I can’t be sure though. They’d definitely allow an Atlantic club set with a different inlay if that’s what you like. By the way, the atlantic club is inspired by WTHC, and if you search for those on here, you’ll go down a deep rabbit hole, they’re beautiful.
 

Coyote

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Your Athenian Owl Club set is actually what sent me down this rabbit hole. I mean that in the highest of compliments because I love your set and the story. Like I mentioned, I was ready to pull the trigger on the Atlantic Club but I figured I would create an account here and just test the waters about creating a custom set and now it's all I can think about.




Many thanks for the flattering compliment.:hearts:
I have allowed a member, who asked, the use of the Owl for an extra run of dealer buttons.
Chips are different though. You can copy a couple of chips, but not the whole line-up please.
The Owl inlays are of course reserved for my set only.:)
 

StingRay

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Thanks everyone!

My next big question as I'm working through my design is the weighted vs unweighted colors. Is it ok to mix and match these or should I do all my cash chips in weighted colors and all my tournament chips in unweighted colors?
 

StingRay

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CustomChips.png


Here is my first go of the cash set. For the base 25c chips and one of the edges on the 100 I used unweighted colors. All the rest are weighted. Any drawbacks to doing that?
 

Rhodeman77

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If you play low stakes cash games with 25/50c blinds then a $20 chip works well. If your blinds start at $1 then a $25 chip is probably better.

Also using a $20 chip as you top denomination in the cash side means you can use the same set for tournaments and cash games.

use .25, 1, 5, 20 for cash games and 25, 100, 500, 1000 for tournament chips.
 

Coyote

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Weighed and unweighed colors can be mixed freely on the same chip.
Some people prefer the weighed ones (those colors are the majority anyway) for their feel.
Others dislike the brass flakes present in these, so they prefer the unweighed ones (all Retros, all DGs, and Bright White).
 

ConsensualPresidency

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Taking a stab at number #2 & #3 - This is mostly frowned upon for the aforementioned security reasons, but I left the denomination off my 25 so it could play as either $ or ¢ in my CPC cash set (unlike the 1 & 5, which have the $) to create additional flexibility in my set without moar chips.

#6 - If you want a clear, laser etched acrylic dealer button, I can recommend Amish Rabbi (the two larger buttons on the right in first picture) and PokerChipsDesign (the single smaller one on the left)
 

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Josh Kifer

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Chanmans are worth it. And remember, when you see the price... It's in Canadian currency, so your price is a bit lower due to the conversion.

I had a BBO table and it's not much of a battle IMO. I'm currently saving for a Chanman myself.
 

Eriks

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Here is my first go of the cash set. For the base 25c chips and one of the edges on the 100 I used unweighted colors. All the rest are weighted. Any drawbacks to doing that?

I would change the spots to dg pink on the $1, regular pink is pretty dull in real life. I would also try to get a spot progression where each denom is more complex than the previous. Now you go a little back and forth.
 

Coyote

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Needless to say the attempt at designing is pointless without the CPC color sample set (and ideally the mold sample set) in your hands.
Several colors look different in reality, and almost all look brighter on the screen than in reality.
 

Irish

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View attachment 501061

Here is my first go of the cash set. For the base 25c chips and one of the edges on the 100 I used unweighted colors. All the rest are weighted. Any drawbacks to doing that?

Would highly recommend either blue or imperial blue for base on the $1. Dark blue is practically black, that chip will be very similar to the $100. If you don't have one yet, get a cpc color sample set!

Lots of great advice here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/first-custom-set-cpc-dos-and-don’ts.41932/
 

StingRay

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Didn't even think about the spot progression. Is this any better?

I just ordered the sample set of 38 colors and 15 molds. However on the design tool I'm only seeing 30 colors. Am I missing something here?

Also can I order any mold anytime? I thought I read somewhere that they rotate through but it wasn't quite clear. If that's the case, how long do they run each mold for? Is there a way to know when the one you want will be back up in the rotation?
 

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View attachment 501184

Didn't even think about the spot progression. Is this any better?

I just ordered the sample set of 38 colors and 15 molds. However on the design tool I'm only seeing 30 colors. Am I missing something here?

Also can I order any mold anytime? I thought I read somewhere that they rotate through but it wasn't quite clear. If that's the case, how long do they run each mold for? Is there a way to know when the one you want will be back up in the rotation?
Yepp, I like this better. It flows better as a set. Most important however is that you end up with a set that YOU are 100% happy with. Take your time and don’t rush it. It’s great that you’ve got a color sample coming, it’s very possible you will rethink colors here and there based on the actual colors. As have been pointed out the weighted colors are not as bright in real life as in the tool.

Weird that you only see 30, there should be 38.

Molds are in rotation so you may have to wait several month before your mold is up. You should however order as soon as you’re done because waiting for a specific mold can mean you’ll be too late. I just put in an order myself on the scrown mold.

Edit: you can always ask cpc directly through @David Spragg about which mold is running/scheduled to run
 

Coyote

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All 38 colors are in the design tool.
The only permanently running mold is the A-mold.
About the rest of the molds, the only reliable source is CPC's management, namely David Spagg (a member here).
Waiting time nowadays is a few months for a set on the A-mold, while other molds might require more than a year's wait.
In general, don't rush at all for a custom set.
If in a hurry, there are always the off-the-shelf CPC sets (Atlantic Club, Rounders, American Eagle) plus the Key West chips (also a vendor business here, also CPC-made).
 

StingRay

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After getting all the samples and playing around for a few weeks I have a design that I am happy with. Would like any input now before I move on to the next step. Anything I should reconsider? (please ignore the last chip)

CustomChips9.png
 

Coyote

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Not bad at all, in terms of colors and spot progression (with the possible exception of the DG Pink top chip which looks somewhat poor, unless it's not a top value chip, but rather a bounty chip).

I insist though: Make sure to have seperate sets for cash and tourney, unless it's a single table tourney with family and childhood friends; even so, it's not conceivable to play tourney AND cash under the same roof on the same night with the same set; too many mistakes lurking. See post #3.
 

raynmanas

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Not bad at all, in terms of colors and spot progression (with the possible exception of the DG Pink top chip which looks somewhat poor, unless it's not a top value chip, but rather a bounty chip).

I insist though: Make sure to have seperate sets for cash and tourney, unless it's a single table tourney with family and childhood friends; even so, it's not conceivable to play tourney AND cash under the same roof on the same night with the same set; too many mistakes lurking. See post #3.

agreed on the top chip looking somewhat "poor" - using 4D14 with the same colors might be enough to remedy that.

it also tilts me that the (presumably) $5 has the edgespot angle offset, but i kinda doubt that's an intentional design feature.

but TBH, i think i actually prefer your spot progression from post #19 - it flows very well. maybe make the purple an 8A14 and the new DG pink the 8D18?
 
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Coyote

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it also tilts me that the (presumably) $5 has the edgespot angle offset, but i kinda doubt that's an intentional design feature.
That's a misdemeanour. Can be easily fixed. Trying now to protect the good man from serious crimes against himself. :)
 

warma

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After getting all the samples and playing around for a few weeks I have a design that I am happy with. Would like any input now before I move on to the next step. Anything I should reconsider? (please ignore the last chip)

View attachment 517172

I recommend throwing an inlay in there to see how it works.

Then I would pause. Read the forum, check out the classifieds, look at the nominations for the 2020 chip of the year. Just make sure there’s nothing out there that doesn’t excite you.

Then I would look at the recommended chip break-downs for the types of games you want to play. No/pot/fixed limit. Will help you make sure you order the right quantity for your game(s).

Then anxiously await the arrival of your set!
 

StingRay

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Not bad at all, in terms of colors and spot progression (with the possible exception of the DG Pink top chip which looks somewhat poor, unless it's not a top value chip, but rather a bounty chip).

I insist though: Make sure to have seperate sets for cash and tourney, unless it's a single table tourney with family and childhood friends; even so, it's not conceivable to play tourney AND cash under the same roof on the same night with the same set; too many mistakes lurking. See post #3.

Thank you so much, you have been a huge help! Yes, I mentioned to ignore the last one. Was just a placeholder so I don't forget to do a missed blind or something like that if I want to.

This would be the cash set, I am planning on doing a tourney set as well.

it also tilts me that the (presumably) $5 has the edgespot angle offset, but i kinda doubt that's an intentional design feature.

but TBH, i think i actually prefer your spot progression from post #19 - it flows very well. maybe make the purple an 8A14 and the new DG pink the 8D18?

Hi raynmanas! Can you explain to me what edgespot angle offset means? I tried searching but nothing was jumping out right away. I'll try playing around with the edgespots some more tomorrow and try our your recommendations. I appreciate it.

I recommend throwing an inlay in there to see how it works.

Then I would pause. Read the forum, check out the classifieds, look at the nominations for the 2020 chip of the year. Just make sure there’s nothing out there that doesn’t excite you.

Then I would look at the recommended chip break-downs for the types of games you want to play. No/pot/fixed limit. Will help you make sure you order the right quantity for your game(s).

Then anxiously await the arrival of your set!

Thank you! I need to hire one of the recommended people here to do the inlay. I have an idea in my head but I just need someone with a design background to make it a reality.

I probably will need help with the quantity when the time comes though but just trying to nail down the design first.
 

Rhodeman77

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After getting all the samples and playing around for a few weeks I have a design that I am happy with. Would like any input now before I move on to the next step. Anything I should reconsider? (please ignore the last chip)

View attachment 517172

definitely put an inlay on the chips while mocking them. It makes a big difference in appearance. use a stock one if needed.

my biggest gripe would be the $1 & $5 using the same color edge spot and the other color edge spot being very similar. if you really want the colors them mix up the size of the spots. Use 3ds316 for the $5?

314 is a classic spot pattern, but the new tri-moon as a single color edge spot looks so good and is only level 2, small price jump for a much better looking chip IMO.
 

raynmanas

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Hi raynmanas! Can you explain to me what edgespot angle offset means? I tried searching but nothing was jumping out right away. I'll try playing around with the edgespots some more tomorrow and try our your recommendations. I appreciate it.

I just mean that the edgespots on the red chip arent centered to the top of the chip like the rest of them, they're off by 15 degrees. There are rotate buttons near the bottom right of the chip design tool, you probably just clicked it once by mistake.
 

StingRay

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my biggest gripe would be the $1 & $5 using the same color edge spot and the other color edge spot being very similar. if you really want the colors them mix up the size of the spots. Use 3ds316 for the $5?

314 is a classic spot pattern, but the new tri-moon as a single color edge spot looks so good and is only level 2, small price jump for a much better looking chip IMO.

Yea the $1 and $5 edge spots have been the hardest for me. I wanted a really fun $1 chip and I feel like blue is so much better than white. OtherwiseI want all the colors to be pretty traditional. I'm a pretty big car guy so the inspiration for the $1 comes from the Gulf colors. I know the $1 and $5 have similar color edge spots but IMO I feel like they work well together when both are being used a lot and I can't imagine anyone mixing up the two so I think it works. However, I do like your suggestion for 3ds316 for the $5.

I agree the tri-moon looks better but I don't know if that will make the 50c chip look out of place if all the rest have more of the squareish edge spots.

I just mean that the edgespots on the red chip arent centered to the top of the chip like the rest of them, they're off by 15 degrees. There are rotate buttons near the bottom right of the chip design tool, you probably just clicked it once by mistake.

Ah, I hadn't even noticed that!


Thanks everyone for all the feedback, much appreciated!
 
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