CPC designs - Cash and Tournament - Almost there? (1 Viewer)

LotsOfChips

Flush
Joined
Jul 10, 2019
Messages
1,984
Reaction score
2,577
Location
Fraser Valley, BC
With lots of advice from a bunch of different PCF'ers, especially @allforcharity, and with many thanks to @grantc54 for the loan of the CPC color samples, I'm making pretty good progress (I think) on base colors and edge designs for both a Cash and Tournament set. I would appreciate any feedback that you care to provide.

For the Cash set, it is Cali-inspired, using unweighted and bright colors (except for the weighted Black $20). Denoms are .05c, .25c, $1, $5, $20, $100 & $500 (stakes from .05c/.10c through $2/$5).

1571072498071.png


For the Tournament set, I have used somewhat more muted colors, all weighted. Denoms are T25, T100, T500, T1000, T5000, T25,000, T100,000 & T500,000 (I'm planning to use the last three for "High Roller" events)

1571032305551.png


My table is a dark red, and most of the above base colors stand out nicely on the felt (all of the reds and browns get completely lost). I have also tried as much as possible to avoid duplication of colors between the Cash and Tournament sets (although the Peacock Blue and Imperial Blue are close) I'm trying the keep the chips averaged at L2, with the highest denoms that will have fewer numbers a little more jazzy.

So, have I got it close with a few tweaks remaining, or do I need to go back to the drawing board (chip simulator) and start again?

Cheers,
 

Attachments

  • 1571032336449.png
    1571032336449.png
    411.8 KB · Views: 180
  • 1571072409019.png
    1571072409019.png
    411.4 KB · Views: 86
Last edited:
Sometimes you don't need a spot progression when doing a tournament set. There are many examples of tournament sets using the exact same spot pattern between chips, just different colours (or sometimes they can even be all solids, no edge spots). Play around with a few options that fit within your budget.
 
Sometimes you don't need a spot progression when doing a tournament set. There are many examples of tournament sets using the exact same spot pattern between chips, just different colours (or sometimes they can even be all solids, no edge spots). Play around with a few options that fit within your budget.
Thanks for that. The responses to my poll thread on progression vs. all the same for the cash set were pretty tilted in favor of progression. For my newbie edification, is there a particular reason why progression is favored for cash sets but not necessarily for tourney sets?
 
Thanks for that. The responses to my poll thread on progression vs. all the same for the cash set were pretty tilted in favor of progression. For my newbie edification, is there a particular reason why progression is favored for cash sets but not necessarily for tourney sets?

Tourney chips don't necessarily require the same type of security features that cash chips in casinos do, because they literally have no cash value. Cash chips ("value" chips) have edge spots and other features so they can recognized and counted in stacks and racks and trays, and also differentiated from each other. Custom home chips tend to reflect practice in casinos.

You'll often see sets of solids (no edgespots) as tournament sets (and, of course, roulette), but almost none in cash sets outside of fracs.
 
I think you are ready to order. I think spot progression on tournament chips is good, as it helps to distinguish one denomination from another in stacks besides the chips having different colors. Casinos and cardrooms generally want to spend less time designing and less money on their tournament chips then their cash chips because their tournaments generate less revenue and there is less need for chip security in tournaments.
 
Sure there are some common practices, but 100% do whatever it is you like. You are the one who is paying the bill and will be looking at them for years to come.

I think most will agree this is one of the best sets created and it has zero spot progression.

1571050829782.png
 
LOL - it seems the edge progression debate could go on for a long time, with great examples and valid reasons on all sides of the discussion. I still need to develop the inlays, so I have a month or three to ruminate and consider (and play with the chip designer tool). I'm reasonably happy with the results so far, but I may tweak the edge colors a bit here and there, and I'll mock up a couple of no-progression L2 for the tourney set just to see what I can come up with.

I'm definitely open to comments and suggestions for improvement, and appreciate the ones that have brought me this far.
 
These are looking great, @LotsOfChips!

One concern I would have regarding your T100 and T500, is that charcoal and lavender can be pretty hard to tell apart when next to each other, especially in low light. This issue might be mitigated by the edgespots, but it’s worth considering. I think using a black T100 with lavender, or a weighted pink T500 with charcoal could be a good option.
 
Tourney chips don't necessarily require the same type of security features that cash chips in casinos do, because they literally have no cash value. Cash chips ("value" chips) have edge spots and other features so they can recognized and counted in stacks and racks and trays, and also differentiated from each other. Custom home chips tend to reflect practice in casinos.

You'll often see sets of solids (no edgespots) as tournament sets (and, of course, roulette), but almost none in cash sets outside of fracs.
Another mystery of the chipping world explained. Now if only I could figure out how they get the caramel inside the Caramilk bar...

Seriously, thanks for your continued knowledge and guidance. Much appreciated.
 
These are looking great, @LotsOfChips!

One concern I would have regarding your T100 and T500, is that charcoal and lavender can be pretty hard to tell apart when next to each other, especially in low light. This issue might be mitigated by the edgespots, but it’s worth considering. I think using a black T100 with lavender, or a weighted pink T500 with charcoal could be a good option.
Yeah, I was kind of thinking the same thing once I looked at them in low light. I initially had the Black in the T100 spot, but went to charcoal to differentiate the tourney and cash sets a bit more. I may try the Retro Lavender as the T500, or change out the T500,000 to a different color and use the weighted pink as the T500 as you suggest.

Once again, thanks for the good advice.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom