Barrington poker table thread (13 Viewers)

I'm not sure I follow the reasoning on moving the pilot hole 1/4" from the original center. If the new cup holder is simply a larger diameter, the center point should still be the center point regardless of the size of the hole. Moving the pilot hole would actually shift the entire cup holder off-center relative to the original location, although that’s perfectly fine if the intent is to reposition the cup holder itself rather than just enlarge the existing opening.

I drilled mine centered on the original location, and they came out perfectly centered on the rail!
I think the reasoning was to avoid cutting to close to the outside edge of the table into the side frame.
I could be wrong but since reading majority of the modified cup holders on these barrington tables, looks like they all used the the 1/4" off original center hole and it turned out all centered.
do you have a picture of yours by chance? just for reference.
 
Sure thing! I posted a couple of pictures earlier in the thread, but he is a picture of one of the finished cupholders:

FOUR.webp
 
that looks centered, I'm wondering the different variations of measurements that still leads to the same center placement at the end.
That’s possible. I tried to make this as easy as possible for myself and not overcomplicate the process. Just take it slow. I’m certain you will be satisfied with the end result. Happy to answer any questions along the way!
 
I'm thinking I could maybe go a couple more MM towards this outside frame to avoid having the cup holders sit to closely to the inner edge towards the felt.
 

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3-5/8" hole saw
large cup holders 4" lip to lip, inside diameter is 3.5"
3 5/8” should work, although the cupholders may or may not fit as snugly. I used a 3 1/2” and had to go back and slightly elongate some of the holes to get the new cupholders to fit. But they do not move whatsoever.

Can you explain your concern about the lip being too close to the edge of the rail/felt? If you move it in, they may not be exactly center as you had previously mentioned.
 
3 5/8” should work, although the cupholders may or may not fit as snugly. I used a 3 1/2” and had to go back and slightly elongate some of the holes to get the new cupholders to fit. But they do not move whatsoever.

Can you explain your concern about the lip being too close to the edge of the rail/felt? If you move it in, they may not be exactly center as you had previously mentioned.
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
 
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
I suppose that wouldn’t hurt anything - just might not be perfectly centered if that was the look you were going for. The rail is 5” across so you really only have about 1/2” on each side of the cupholder to play with. My thoughts are center it as best you can and call it a day!
 
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
I also used the step by step guide by @RadicusScout including moving the center point 1/4” closer to the felt. That enabled not hitting the edge frame of the table by about 1/8” margin . So if you want to, you probably have room to reduce this 1/4” center offset a bit.
IMG_7342.webp

There may be some manufacturing variation table to table. You could verify this edge frame clearance for each cup holder by drilling a small hole from the topside at the edge of each existing cup holder hole and measure between the small drilled hole to the edge frame. That’s what I did. That gave me confidence the saw would be close but wouldn’t hit the edge frame.
IMG_7327.webp
 
ok so I just finished mine. I went with 1-7/8 instead of 2" and turned out pretty good.
when you mention to find the outside edge wouldn't we just use that side wall underneath to determine the max sidewall distance?
 

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I also used the step by step guide by @RadicusScout including moving the center point 1/4” closer to the felt. That enabled not hitting the edge frame of the table by about 1/8” margin . So if you want to, you probably have room to reduce this 1/4” center offset a bit.
View attachment 1692025
There may be some manufacturing variation table to table. You could verify this edge frame clearance for each cup holder by drilling a small hole from the topside at the edge of each existing cup holder hole and measure between the small drilled hole to the edge frame. That’s what I did. That gave me confidence the saw would be close but wouldn’t hit the edge frame.
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wouldn't this be max edge you can saw?
like go right up to this wall and start drill and you'll still be within frame without damaging the edge?
 

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wouldn't this be max edge you can saw?
like go right up to this wall and start drill and you'll still be within frame without damaging the edge?
Sure, you could line up your saw a hair away from the wall and start sawing. You’d just be deviating from the step by step process @RadicusScout posted. As long as you have a way to otherwise saw and be aligned with the existing smaller cup holder hole, you can change the process. The step by step process provides a center guide pilot hole to ensure such an alignment.

For me, slight damage to the wall is less critical. More important is that the new cut hole is located where you want and looks good from the top.
 

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