Tourney 300 chip breakdowns (2 Viewers)

[wolfpack]

I am putting together a count for 300 chip sets for different denominations T1 T5 T35

these will be for 1 table tournaments up tob10 people.

so far I have

T25
80x25
80x100
40x500
80x1000
20x5000

10k starting stacks 8/8/4/7 enough chips for color up. Stating blinds 25/50

T5
100x5
100x25
75x100
25x500

2k starting stack 10/10/7/2 enough chips for color up starting blinds 5/10

T1
100x1
100x5
70x25
30x100

400 starting stack 10/8/6/2 I think enough for color up. Starting blind 1/2

I am pretty confident the t25 and T5 breakdowns are good, but not sure if the T1 is the best breakdown

 

[Darthhoodie]

Will these be 3 different 300 chip sets or are you building one set, say 500 chips to accommodate these 3 situations?

 

[wolfpack]

3 different sets

 

[Darthhoodie]

For the T1 set,
100/80/80/40 would give you 10/8/6/2 with a barrel of 25's to color up the 1's and 5's and a barrel of 100's for up to 5 rebuys.
If your good with 26 starting chips this seems efficient to me.

 

[JustinInMN]

T1
100x1
100x5
70x25
40x100

400 starting stack 10/8/6/2 I think enough for color up. Starting blind 1/2

You probably have to do 100/80/60/60 (or 100/100/75/25 depending on the purchase quantity requirements) to fit under 300 chips on your T1 structure, but otherwise I think this is your best bet.

If you have to purchase multiples of 25 for the base T25 set, you either have to go over 300, or settle for accommodating 9 players instead of 10. (75/75/50/75/25)

 

[Pippa]

What about for 600 chips?
Usable for cash game and tournament?0.10/0.20
Thanks

For the T1 set,
100/80/80/40 would give you 10/8/6/2 with a barrel of 25's to color up the 1's and 5's and a barrel of 100's for up to 5 rebuys.
If your good with 26 starting chips this seems efficient to me.

View attachment 526168

 

[allforcharity]

What about for 600 chips?
Usable for cash game and tournament?0.10/0.20
Thanks

We generally try to avoid using the same chips for cash and tournament, unless you completely restrict the denominations, i.e. use 20 and below for cash only, and 25 and above for tourney only. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

 

[MathijsVS]

We generally try to avoid using the same chips for cash and tournament, unless you completely restrict the denominations, i.e. use 20 and below for cash only, and 25 and above for tourney only. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't.

Just to tag along here: why? It seems so handy to have one big set that can cover both purposes?

 

[allforcharity]

Just to tag along here: why? It seems so handy to have one big set that can cover both purposes?

So a tournament chip doesn't disappear one night and reappear another night as a cash chip.

 

[Eriks]

So a tournament chip doesn't disappear one night and reappear another night as a cash chip.

And so it gets easier to justify getting more chips!

 

[Coyote]

So a tournament chip doesn't disappear one night and reappear another night as a cash chip.

Unless Tournament units cost (upon buy-in) the same as in a cash game.
E.g. a T2,000 tournament costing $20 to buy-in, so each unit costs a cent. The T5, T25, T100 etc chips can be used as 5c, 25c, 100c cash chips also.
To do the same with a T25-based tourney set, you need you tournament buy-in to cost $100.
To do the same and use the denominations as dollars, your tourney buy-in should cost $10,000.

 

[JustinInMN]

What about for 600 chips?
Usable for cash game and tournament?0.10/0.20
Thanks

+1 on separating cash and tournament sets. Even innocently, you don't want to worry about it should a tournament chip ever go missing.

That said, I could build tight sets for both in 600 chips.

Tournament:
80/80/40/80/20 of T25/100/500/1000/5000 accommodates 10 stacks of 8/8/4/7 for T10K plus extra T1000 for color ups and T5000 for re entries.

(If having to buy in qty of 25 do 75/75/50/75/25, and you will still be able to accommodate 9 stacks.)

Cash:
100/40/100/60 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

I favor the dime-half-dollar progression for 0.10-0.20 games, but the secret is you don't really need that many halves since you will co-workhorse with the singles. The total bank would be 430 or 21 total buy ins of 20, it's a little tight if you get over 7-handed. (I like to plan 3 buyins per player in my cash sets.)

Starting stacks matter less in cash, but if you get 10 players in for a buy in of 20, the average would be aroud each player having 10/4/7/2 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

(If having to buy in qty of 25, get 100/50/100/50 of 0.10/0.50/1/5 instead)

Another cash option that would be more efficient would be to change the stakes to 0.25-0.25 (or 0.25 single blind) and do the more standard 0.25/1/5 progression.

Then you can do something like 100/120/80 of 0.25/1/5 and have a bank of 545 or 27 buy ins of 20, much more coverage.

(Or 100/125/75 if you have a qty of 25 limitation)

The cash sets are admittedly tight, and on bigger nights you may exhaust the bank which means you would have to permit 20 bills on the table, which is not ideal for these stakes, but it would work if needed.

But this is how to get a single table tournament and cash set for 300 chips each.

 

[wolfpack]

the 300 piece sets I am talkig about are strictly tournament. I have a custom 400 piece set for cash games.

I want a tournament 1/5/25/100 and 5/25/100/500 breakdown for the chance to make resonably priced used casino chip sets tht can be used in 1 table tournaments.

 

[JustinInMN]

the 300 piece sets I am talkig about are strictly tournament. I have a custom 400 piece set for cash games.

I want a tournament 1/5/25/100 and 5/25/100/500 breakdown for the chance to make resonably priced used casino chip sets tht can be used in 1 table tournaments.

Maybe I wasn't clear in my post before the last one above, but I think your original suggestions for T1 and T5 were pretty good.

T5
100x5
100x25
75x100
25x500

2k starting stack 10/10/7/2 enough chips for color up starting blinds 5/10

T1
100x1
100x5
70x25
30x100

400 starting stack 10/8/6/2 I think enough for color up. Starting blind 1/2

The only change I would consider to your T5 structure is go 100/100/70/30 instead and just plan all color ups with T500 chips from the bank (would require 6 to account for T5 and T25s in play). You just make it for a T2000 stack * 10.

T1 is kinda awkward because you have to pick between 10/8/x/x of 1/5 or 10/13/x/x.

Probably need to do 10/8/6/2 starting stack just to keep the total down. So 100/80/60/60 all your color ups with T100 chips from the bank. (would require 5 to account for T1 and T5s in play.)

 

[Pippa]

+1 on separating cash and tournament sets. Even innocently, you don't want to worry about it should a tournament chip ever go missing.

That said, I could build tight sets for both in 600 chips.

Tournament:
80/80/40/80/20 of T25/100/500/1000/5000 accommodates 10 stacks of 8/8/4/7 for T10K plus extra T1000 for color ups and T5000 for re entries.

(If having to buy in qty of 25 do 75/75/50/75/25, and you will still be able to accommodate 9 stacks.)

Cash:
100/40/100/60 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

I favor the dime-half-dollar progression for 0.10-0.20 games, but the secret is you don't really need that many halves since you will co-workhorse with the singles. The total bank would be 430 or 21 total buy ins of 20, it's a little tight if you get over 7-handed. (I like to plan 3 buyins per player in my cash sets.)

Starting stacks matter less in cash, but if you get 10 players in for a buy in of 20, the average would be aroud each player having 10/4/7/2 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

(If having to buy in qty of 25, get 100/50/100/50 of 0.10/0.50/1/5 instead)

Another cash option that would be more efficient would be to change the stakes to 0.25-0.25 (or 0.25 single blind) and do the more standard 0.25/1/5 progression.

Then you can do something like 100/120/80 of 0.25/1/5 and have a bank of 545 or 27 buy ins of 20, much more coverage.

(Or 100/125/75 if you have a qty of 25 limitation)

The cash sets are admittedly tight, and on bigger nights you may exhaust the bank which means you would have to permit 20 bills on the table, which is not ideal for these stakes, but it would work if needed.

But this is how to get a single table tournament and cash set for 300 chips each.

+1 on separating cash and tournament sets. Even innocently, you don't want to worry about it should a tournament chip ever go missing.

That said, I could build tight sets for both in 600 chips.

Tournament:
80/80/40/80/20 of T25/100/500/1000/5000 accommodates 10 stacks of 8/8/4/7 for T10K plus extra T1000 for color ups and T5000 for re entries.

(If having to buy in qty of 25 do 75/75/50/75/25, and you will still be able to accommodate 9 stacks.)

Cash:
100/40/100/60 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

I favor the dime-half-dollar progression for 0.10-0.20 games, but the secret is you don't really need that many halves since you will co-workhorse with the singles. The total bank would be 430 or 21 total buy ins of 20, it's a little tight if you get over 7-handed. (I like to plan 3 buyins per player in my cash sets.)

Starting stacks matter less in cash, but if you get 10 players in for a buy in of 20, the average would be aroud each player having 10/4/7/2 of 0.10/0.50/1/5

(If having to buy in qty of 25, get 100/50/100/50 of 0.10/0.50/1/5 instead)

Another cash option that would be more efficient would be to change the stakes to 0.25-0.25 (or 0.25 single blind) and do the more standard 0.25/1/5 progression.

Then you can do something like 100/120/80 of 0.25/1/5 and have a bank of 545 or 27 buy ins of 20, much more coverage.

(Or 100/125/75 if you have a qty of 25 limitation)

The cash sets are admittedly tight, and on bigger nights you may exhaust the bank which means you would have to permit 20 bills on the table, which is not ideal for these stakes, but it would work if needed.

But this is how to get a single table tournament and cash set for 300 chips each.

This is my set for cash game
I want to buy another for tournament
What you think about denomination?
Usually we are in 7/8 guys
Thanks

This is my set for cash game
I want to buy another for tournament
What you think about denomination?
Usually we are in 7/8 guys
Thanks

This for tournament
1.000
5.000
25.000
100.000
Quantity????

 

[BGinGA]

I am putting together a count for 300 chip sets for different denominations T1 T5 T35

these will be for 1 table tournaments up tob10 people.

so far I have

T25
80x25
80x100
40x500
80x1000
20x5000

10k starting stacks 8/8/4/7 enough chips for color up. Stating blinds 25/50

T5
100x5
100x25
75x100
25x500

2k starting stack 10/10/7/2 enough chips for color up starting blinds 5/10

T1
100x1
100x5
70x25
30x100

400 starting stack 10/8/6/2 I think enough for color up. Starting blind 1/2

I am pretty confident the t25 and T5 breakdowns are good, but not sure if the T1 is the best breakdown

Not sure why you see a need to have three different single-table tournament sets, using T1-, T5-, and T25-base.

Neither T1- or T5-base sets play particularly well, compared to T.25-, T25-, T100-, or T500-base events), and none of your proposed breakdowns are optimized for single-table use.

I think you'd be better served with two flexible and well-configured 400-chip sets (totalling 800 chips) than three 300-chip sets (900 total chips) that only meet bare minimum requirements. Or even a single 600-800 chip set that is configured to be used as one of two (or three) different Tx-base sets.

 

[joepro]

This thread has excellent info on a T5 base tournament, even much discussion on a 300 chip setup...

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/2k-tourney-t5-base.59158/

 

[wolfpack]

For the T1 set,
100/80/80/40 would give you 10/8/6/2 with a barrel of 25's to color up the 1's and 5's and a barrel of 100's for up to 5 rebuys.
If your good with 26 starting chips this seems efficient to me.

View attachment 526168

Is this a spreadsheet I can download soemwhere?

 

[Raptor5]

Not sure why you see a need to have three different single-table tournament sets, using T1-, T5-, and T25-base.

Neither T1- or T5-base sets play particularly well, compared to T.25-, T25-, T100-, or T500-base events), and none of your proposed breakdowns are optimized for single-table use.

I think you'd be better served with two flexible and well-configured 400-chip sets (totalling 800 chips) than three 300-chip sets (900 total chips) that only meet bare minimum requirements. Or even a single 600-800 chip set that is configured to be used as one of two (or three) different Tx-base sets.

Hey BG, I'm a noob on here from UK and looking at doing exactly that but two 500 chip sets. Have to buy in set of 25 chips. Single table usually 8 players but would like to accommodate 10 if needed. Guys I play with don't usually play such structured poker and I'm trying to change that. But know they would struggle with the low chip start stacks I've seen on some of the posts. Was thinking of getting T5 for one set and then T25 for the other but more i read the more i'm not sure if that's the right approach. Also can't decide whether to get one set for tourney and one for cash. It going to be my first half decent chip set as fed up with playing with dice set with all the wrong amount of doms as been mixed up with other people sets in the past. So any words of wisdom would be appreciated. As I've said I'm trying to break the mould with the couple of groups I play with to try and get a regular structured tourney going. Oh and one of the groups i play with like to have at least 3 re-buys before the freeze out.

 

[Colquhoun]

Hey BG, I'm a noob on here from UK and looking at doing exactly that but two 500 chip sets. Have to buy in set of 25 chips. Single table usually 8 players but would like to accommodate 10 if needed. Guys I play with don't usually play such structured poker and I'm trying to change that. But know they would struggle with the low chip start stacks I've seen on some of the posts. Was thinking of getting T5 for one set and then T25 for the other but more i read the more i'm not sure if that's the right approach. Also can't decide whether to get one set for tourney and one for cash. It going to be my first half decent chip set as fed up with playing with dice set with all the wrong amount of doms as been mixed up with other people sets in the past. So any words of wisdom would be appreciated. As I've said I'm trying to break the mould with the couple of groups I play with to try and get a regular structured tourney going. Oh and one of the groups i play with like to have at least 3 re-buys before the freeze out.

Let me help him see this post...
@BGinGA

 

[Raptor5]

Let me help him see this post...
@BGinGA

Cheers Colquhoun