Golf Thread (8 Viewers)

There are a few things I haven't read yet in this thread. Quite a read, but the small nuances makes everything go smoothly and properly.

Make sure you push from the butt end and not the front end if you want a normal install. If you push the front end, it will stretch out the rubber which can be a desired effect if you want a thinner/firmer feel. You can tell which grips are stretched out by comparing each grip lengths after install. That's only done if you want a firmer feel and are not using build up tape. Build up tape will give the firmer feel by stretching it out already.

Use way more solvent than you think for several reasons. You can place a tub underneath and pour it back in later. Using ample solvent prevents over-clamping the shaft. Pushing the grip on shouldn't have much resistance so the vise shouldn't be clamping that hard. It should be smooth as a slip and slide. Be careful not to over clamp the shaft especially graphite. There is a specific clamp for golf shafts, but I rather have a vise for other projects. Using plenty of solvent also allows more time to make any adjustments if it's not aligned up right, stretched, or twisted. If it's stretched you can hold the butt end and pull back on the front end. It should naturally bounce back on its own sliding back into its normal resting spot without any stretching. Solvent is basically mineral spirit with a few additives and like everything else in golf marked up in price. I'd just buy odorless mineral spirit (don't buy the plant/organic version). I've heard lighter fluid works if you have that lying around.

Like someone said, adding heat to the tape does make it easier to be removed. There's circular plastic tool you can buy or 3D print to remove the tape in one swipe after applying heat.

There a few things about air compressor installs. It doesn't work with every grip type. It's prone to twisting with some grips. There are a few way around the twisting, but I'd just go with the traditional way with lubricants like solvent. Air compressor is great if you want to try a grip out real quick and remove it. If you're short on time, there is no waiting for grip to dry time for air compressor installs. You can hit golf balls with it immediately.

I'm now just getting into building up with more tape layers as I prefer less of a gummy/soft grip. Also I prefer reduced taper grips as Plus 4 option is not available for all grips. Tape building can covert any grip into Plus 4/reduced taper. If you got questions on how to turn a standard size into a midsize or a size in between let me know.

There's also way to remove a grip without destroying it with a tool and solvent. An air compressor can't remove a grip that was installed with solvent activated double sided tape.

Later on when you're ready to regrip a club again with the exact same grip, you can mark where the grip ends to get the perfect tape length. Assuming you don't change the tape amount.
I’ve been regripping with the Golf Pride MCC Plus-4 Align grips in midsize. Amazing feel, I wish I had these years ago.
To remove a solvent-applied grip without destroying it, I’ve used a hybrid approach.
I hold the club butt-down and pry a small space between the grip and the club with an awl. I have solvent in a bottle with a long tip, and inject solvent into the hole. I can then push the awl 4-5 inches down and around the club shaft, while squirting more solvent between the grip and club. Then the club goes into the vise and I use air into the butt end, which loosens the grip entirely from the club. Sometimes I need to pinch the tapered end of the grip to keep the air from coming out, which makes the grip “balloon” out and separate from the club.
This method has served me well when I want to switch out grips without destroying them.
 
A hot one today.

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Lucky about the masters! Both lotteries?
No such luck. Had to buy the tickets (4 days Thur-Sun in 2010) from Go Tickets (now defuct) but others legit sites sell them as well. They were $5K per badge, + $1500 to return the patron badge, but got that $1500 reimbursed. In 2013, we bought the badge for Sat-Sun only. 1/2 the cost but the same $1500 for return of the badges. I'm assuming that patrons with lifetime tickets may need to show their tickets thus why they need them returned. We had no problem with the tickets, but the rules that you sign for those tickets are very strict. BTW, the patron badges displayed are phone pictures copied to the same size as the actual tickets.
It was well worth the cost. A bucket list item. I've been trying to win the lottery for ages and gave up when I found out tickets were available to purchase. The old saying goes, with enough $$, you can get anything. It's a matter how badly you want to go to golf heaven. No other course even comes close to matching it, but Jack's Memorial is a close 2nd. The others weren't cow pastures by any means. Even the lesser ones like River Highlands (Traveller's) were very nice. The Masters has no clutter like tents etc, and all the restrooms, and canteens are well hidden in the woods. The Memorial (Murfield Village) was somewhat like that as well back in the day, but now it's cluttered as well with tents etc.
I have a friend that put in for the Master's lottery for the very first time (5 years ago), and got 4 tickets for Wednesday, the best day to get them so you can take in the Par 3.
 
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I’ve been regripping with the Golf Pride MCC Plus-4 Align grips in midsize. Amazing feel, I wish I had these years ago.
To remove a solvent-applied grip without destroying it, I’ve used a hybrid approach.
I hold the club butt-down and pry a small space between the grip and the club with an awl. I have solvent in a bottle with a long tip, and inject solvent into the hole. I can then push the awl 4-5 inches down and around the club shaft, while squirting more solvent between the grip and club. Then the club goes into the vise and I use air into the butt end, which loosens the grip entirely from the club. Sometimes I need to pinch the tapered end of the grip to keep the air from coming out, which makes the grip “balloon” out and separate from the club.
This method has served me well when I want to switch out grips without destroying them.
Huh only takes about 5 inches to break the adhering? I would have thought it would have been more down. Guess it makes sense since the tapered portion is tighter on the shaft.

I got to try it out because tape inside the grip is a pain to get out.

The only thing is I can't seem remove without the tape messing up and sticking inside the grip. There was this one time I used a lot of solvent to remove it and the whole entire tape remained intact on the shaft! Not sure there a trick to it, but using more solvent did work that one time. Using Golfworks double sided tape btw.

Guess this hybrid approach would solve this issue.
Wish I read this sooner as I just removed some grips lol.
 
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