Warning on Over labeling Scandias (2 Viewers)

Jers28

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I’m going to suggest to anyone who’s considering an overlabel project to not use Scandias, especially the $25s and $100s. First off, you can clearly see the shape of the inlay through the label (yes, I used @Gear labels, so good stuff). Second, because the recess and the textured finish, the labels absolutely will not stay stuck in place. I found myself going through racks of chips and smashing around the outer circle before every card game, which is a massive time suck and not fun. Third, when you do finally decide you can’t take it anymore, you’re out whatever money you spent, countless hours labeling, reapplying and then finally peeling them back off (which admittedly didn’t take that long since they wouldn’t stick) so you can start over.

The upside is, @pokercole thinks he has a solution and I’m shipping the now naked chips to him and if successful, will order another set of labels from @Gear that will look significantly nicer in the end. I only wish I’d known and saved a lot of time, money and aggravation. I’m not blaming anyone. I can’t find much pertaining to the subject on the forum. What little I saw was old and there seemed to be a difference of opinion. Overlabeling all shaped inlays isn’t the same. I have some chips that are fine. But, certainly not Scandias.

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Full set
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A pic from the initial post, you can see the labels specifically on the $25s wanting to peel up already and they’d never been played
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Not nearly as exciting as applying labels, to be sure. You can see on the left top of stack the label peeling off and it’s hard to make out in a pic, but the inlay pattern can be seen, as well.

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Hopefully @pokercole can save the day! Otherwise, I’ll be purchasing chips with labels removed, or hot stamps that can be milled, or simply a chip with a smooth label like Empress Star/Tiger Palace/Paris/etc. Those labels are all stuck like glue and look fantastic! (Just to be clear I’m not complaining or bashing anyone at all)

I’m only posting this specifically to warn against over labeling Scandia shaped inlays. I can’t speak to other chips.
 
Just a thought. Plastic will grow and shrink with temp swings. Are the chips all in a temp controlled environment?

—Diz
 
I’ve been told I’m not apposed to use that word…but YES!!!
 
Just a thought. Plastic will grow and shrink with temp swings. Are the chips all in a temp controlled environment?

—Diz
Yes. It barely changes by a degree or a % humidity year round. My cigars love it as it’s pretty well ideal at 68/68.
 
The Scandia inlay has a definite recess combined with the textured nature of the inlay gives the label virtually zero contact patch.
 
Oh boy. That’s a nice chip to murder!

I’ve started to mess around on my own with an overlabel and it’s…. Frustrating. Just trying to dial in size now to see if I’ll get spinners.

The nature of the job precludes gears help as the end result can be used for nefarious means.

I was reading the how to inlay removal threads just yesterday and for the first time.

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(The flat spot at 3 o’clock is a mfg defect and they’re remaking these).
 
I’ve had a couple racks of overlabeled Scandia $1s and didn’t have an issue so it may be limited to shaped inlays.

Agree with others here, there should be plenty of round Scandia $25s to trade the shaped ones for… don’t think you’re going to go with a shaped label. It’d be even more of a shame to mill these into round centers.
 
I’ve had a couple racks of overlabeled Scandia $1s and didn’t have an issue so it may be limited to shaped inlays.

Agree with others here, there should be plenty of round Scandia $25s to trade the shaped ones for… don’t think you’re going to go with a shaped label. It’d be even more of a shame to mill these into round centers.
I don’t believe the label adherence on top of a shaped inlay would be any worse than on a round one. Consider how the chips are made. The inlay is pressed into the recess in the clay. The result is that the inlay is flush with the rest of the clay in the recess, and the entire recess ends up with the same texture.

If you held two of the same Paulsons, one with a shaped inlay and the other with a round inlay and you closed your eyes and examined it just by touch and feel, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

I’ve never tried overlabeling textured-inlay Paulsons. But I have to think that you’re going to have problems getting good adherence overlabeling any textured-inlay Paulsons, especially if they’re minty with crisp texture.
 
I don’t believe the label adherence on top of a shaped inlay would be any worse than on a round one. Consider how the chips are made. The inlay is pressed into the recess in the clay. The result is that the inlay is flush with the rest of the clay in the recess, and the entire recess ends up with the same texture.

If you held two of the same Paulsons, one with a shaped inlay and the other with a round inlay and you closed your eyes and examined it just by touch and feel, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

I’ve never tried overlabeling textured-inlay Paulsons. But I have to think that you’re going to have problems getting good adherence overlabeling any textured-inlay Paulsons, especially if they’re minty with crisp texture.
I’m with you and don’t disagree. However, I have seen some shaped inlay, textured chips to actually have a slightly different height on the inlay than the recess of the chip, and think that may be happening here. Just mentioning that I didn’t have the issue with textured, round inlay Scandias.
 
I don’t believe the label adherence on top of a shaped inlay would be any worse than on a round one. Consider how the chips are made. The inlay is pressed into the recess in the clay. The result is that the inlay is flush with the rest of the clay in the recess, and the entire recess ends up with the same texture.

If you held two of the same Paulsons, one with a shaped inlay and the other with a round inlay and you closed your eyes and examined it just by touch and feel, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.

I’ve never tried overlabeling textured-inlay Paulsons. But I have to think that you’re going to have problems getting good adherence overlabeling any textured-inlay Paulsons, especially if they’re minty with crisp texture.
My guess was a shaped inlay IS a little more recessed below the clay hence the problem.
 
ressed into the recess in the clay. The result is that the inlay is flush with the rest of the clay in the recess, and the entire recess ends up with the same texture.
Except it’s not flush. It’s very assuredly recessed from the rest of the chip. Not 100% uniform at all. Some it’s flush. Most it’s not. Some, it’s really not.
If you held two of the same Paulsons, one with a shaped inlay and the other with a round inlay and you closed your eyes and examined it just by touch and feel, you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference.
Not accurate. They are sitting right here. You can theorize all you like. I’m holding proof to the contrary.
I’ve never tried overlabeling textured-inlay Paulsons. But I have to think that you’re going to have problems getting good adherence overlabeling any textured-inlay Paulsons, especially if they’re minty with crisp texture.
This is definitely more true than the other statements in that the Viva Las Vegas version of this chip, which I also own, is textured and the labels could stick better. But, they are still on a few months later and haven’t peeled off on their own. The shaped inlays on the Scandias are another story.

The handful of Scandias that the inlay was dead flush on, as you described, also weren’t a problem. It was the 90% that weren’t flush.

I’m not looking to debate anyone. I was just offering a simple warning to people to help avoid making a costly mistake that I made. I honestly don’t care if anyone believes me. I’ve done my part. I warned people. If anyone chooses to ignore my warning and wants to learn the hard way, by all means. Go for it.

I also 100% agree round vs shaped for my purposes would be better. So, who has 3 racks of round Scandia THC chips they want to trade me?
 
I’m with you and don’t disagree. However, I have seen some shaped inlay, textured chips to actually have a slightly different height on the inlay than the recess of the chip, and think that may be happening here. Just mentioning that I didn’t have the issue with textured, round inlay Scandias.
This. It’s not uniform at all. Much like the inlays aren’t dead center. There is variance. Making chips isn’t exact. Why would the inlay on a shaped inlay be suddenly perfect when nothing else on a clay chip is?
 
Not accurate. They are sitting right here. You can theorize all you like. I’m holding proof to the contrary.
FWIW, I’m not theorizing. I’m speaking from experience. I have certainly not examined every shaped inlay chip I’ve ever seen, so I appreciate you letting me know that some variance can occur.

Why would the inlay on a shaped inlay be suddenly perfect when nothing else on a clay chip is?
Why would the surface of a chip be perfectly flat? Well that’s pretty much the most important feature of a poker chip. But maybe those recesses exist because that perfection is difficult to achieve.
 
I’m not speaking as an expert on all things poker chips or even shaped inlays. I’m only speaking specifically to the shaped inlays in the near mint Scandia $25s currently in my possession. My practical application of labels didn’t work out. I’m not trying to insult anyone or imply anyone isn’t smart. There’s a clear advantage to holding the evidence in your hands vs a notion in your head was my only point. That’s what my theoretical comment vs practical application was intended to point out. Specifically on these Scandias, only.

Just trying to save some people some time, money and grief. Instead I’m creating more grief for myself. I’m checking out. I tried to help. I’m done. Best of luck to anyone who thinks all Scandias shaped inlays are flush and I’m just a moron with oily chips and or fingers.
 
I’m not speaking as an expert on all things poker chips or even shaped inlays. I’m only speaking specifically to the shaped inlays in the near mint Scandia $25s currently in my possession. My practical application of labels didn’t work out. I’m not trying to insult anyone or imply anyone isn’t smart. There’s a clear advantage to holding the evidence in your hands vs a notion in your head was my only point. That’s what my theoretical comment vs practical application was intended to point out. Specifically on these Scandias, only.

Just trying to save some people some time, money and grief. Instead I’m creating more grief for myself. I’m checking out. I tried to help. I’m done. Best of luck to anyone who thinks all Scandias shaped inlays are flush and I’m just a moron with oily chips and or fingers.
I’m always here for the discussions - to teach and to learn. If you don’t want to engage, that’s up to you.
 
I thought creating the thread and my comments were doing exactly that. If that’s what we are doing, fantastic. I’m all for it.
 
I’m kind of confused by the thought that this wouldn’t be a problem. The inlay on my hex PCA $25’s certainly seems more deeply recessed than the rest of the “circle” where a round inlay would usually lay.

Could definitely see trying to lay a circular label over the shape being a problem. I think it’s probably very rarely been done, tbh.
 
I’m kind of confused by the thought that this wouldn’t be a problem. The inlay on my hex PCA $25’s certainly seems more deeply recessed than the rest of the “circle” where a round inlay would usually lay.

Could definitely see trying to lay a circular label over the shape being a problem. I think it’s probably very rarely been done, tbh.
This was my first over label set ever. Lessons were learned. I never actually held the Scandias and didn't even apply the labels. It was a joint effort and the first time I ever got a Scandia in my hand was with the labels applied. Except they were falling off when I got them. So, I have been trying to make lemons from my lemonade from the jump. It definitely won't be something I'd ever do again.

I bought some Scandia $100s and $500s with the intention of relabeling in one fashion or another. They are still sitting on a shelf and those plans were abandoned. I suppose I could just try to buy some Scandia $5s (not easy) and $1s (slightly easier) and have a full Scandia set with shaped inlays. Replace the greens with something else in my "vegas" color custom cash set and move on with my life. That's most likely what will happen at this point.
 

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