Tourney Newbie looking for advice. (1 Viewer)

Zapados

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I'm thinking about pulling together a T5K planned to go for about 3.0 hours for <= 9 people.

This seems like a good breakdown for starting chips (thanks to @inca911):
  • 8 x $25
  • 8 x $100
  • 4 x $500
  • 1 or 2 x $1000
What do you recommend for a total chip purchase?

On a different topic...why is there so much talk about T10Ks? It seems too...large. What's "wrong with" T5Ks or T1Ks?
 
In my experience starting with less blinds is better. A lot of the structures you see for a 4-5 hr home game play out like a hyper turbo when it really counts. Shallower stacks and slower level jumps are the way to go.

T5k is absolutely fine
I’d have to agree. The shorter tournaments I’ve played that start 200BB deep end up progressing too fast too soon.
 
c...why is there so much talk about T10Ks? It seems too...large. What's "wrong with" T5Ks or T1Ks?

T10K starting at 25-50 is the "classic" WSOP main event structure, before they changed it to T30K starting at 50-100, I believe. (Edit, the change to 30k was longer ago than I thought, going back to at least 2007.)

So a lot of hosts just consider T10K the "standard" inspired by this but nothing wrong with using different amounts depending on your timing goals. In terms of starting big blinds, I think of tournaments this way.

Under 40 Turbo
40-80 short
80-150 average
150-250 deep
Over 250 mega deep.
 
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This structure with 5k stacks and 15min levels will end in about 3-3.5hrs with no breaks. You can cut 25-25 to speed it up a bit (or add breaks). Given you just want 3 hours, I don't think cutting the 25-75 level is the worst either.

25-25
25-50
25-75
50-100
75-150
100-200
150-300
200-400
300-600
400-800
600-1200
800-1600
1000-2000
 
Thanks for all the great feedback on the blinds and blind raising!

What kind of chip counts do I need to support a T5K with the starting stacks mentioned in the OP?

  • 8 x $25
  • 8 x $100
  • 4 x $500
  • 1 or 2 x $1000
 
  • 8 x $25
  • 8 x $100
  • 4 x $500
  • 1 or 2 x $1000

Well the answer is 2 *T1000 to make T5K :)

The two most common tournament breakdowns for a T25 base you will see suggested on PCF is the minimum 8/8/4/x or the bigger stacks of 12/12/5/x where x is the number of T1000 chips needed to make the desired starting stack.

So what you have in your last post is enough to get by, but if you want to get more chips in play, I do prefer 12/12/5/x personally.
 
80/80/40/40 should do it for you. Maybe a few 5K's for late stages.
 
Thanks @Beakertwang!

This should be enough info. to get me through this tourney, then I'll be ordering my Apache sampler and going from there. Those Majestics look pretty enticing!
 
This structure with 5k stacks and 15min levels will end in about 3-3.5hrs with no breaks. You can cut 25-25 to speed it up a bit (or add breaks). Given you just want 3 hours, I don't think cutting the 25-75 level is the worst either.

25-25
25-50
25-75
50-100
75-150
100-200
150-300
200-400
300-600
400-800
600-1200
800-1600
1000-2000

I really like this structure for a 3hr tourney.

That said, anything under 5 hours and I would prefer to play cash. One too many coin flips lost =(
 
For 5K starting stacks, you have few options :
8/8/4/2
8/8/6/1
8/8/8
12/12/5/1
12/12/7

Multiply by your number of players.
T5000, 10 players will end around level 1500-3000.
So you shall foresee few T1K chips to color-up the T25 and T100. Basically you need one per player for 8/8/... stack and 1-1/2 per player for 12/12/... stack.

So basically for 10 players :
80/80/40/30
80/80/60/20
80/80/80/10
120/120/50/25
120/120/70/15

Just round up to get full barrels. Also a good Idea is to have few spares of each value (in case of lost, ...).

This assumes you don't use addon and / or rebuy.

The structure given by @Legend5555 is very good.
 
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Thanks @Beakertwang!

This should be enough info. to get me through this tourney, then I'll be ordering my Apache sampler and going from there. Those Majestics look pretty enticing!
I’d highly recommend getting the 43mm Royal chips instead. For an extra 10¢/chip, you get better colors, edge spot progression, and most importantly, less slippery chips.

Good luck with your search! :tup:
 
@DarkestHorse yeah I understand the sentiment, but I'm going to have some casual players and pretty big newbies here, I mean I'm def. in the casual range, so that little bit of lopsidedness towards luck is a draw and will make it a little more fun I think.

@Kid_Eastwood thanks for the those numbers! This helps dictate what I can do this tournament, and will help shape my future purcahse. What do you mean by "full barrels?"

@Beakertwang is there an Apache sampler that includes the Royals? I was looking at the "super sampler" which is basically everything else including the Majestics...but I don't see a Royal in that list!
 
@Beakertwang is there an Apache sampler that includes the Royals? I was looking at the "super sampler" which is basically everything else including the Majestics...but I don't see a Royal in that list!
If the super sampler you’re considering is the one pictured below, I’d skip it. One chip is not enough to get a feel for a set. How they stack, feel, sound, shuffle, etc. takes at least 8 chips. I bet you could buy or “rent” full samples of Majestics, Royals, or other chips you may be interested in by posting a wanted ad.

81D865F1-F2DF-472B-BC2C-08C10ED52F1D.png
 
This structure with 5k stacks and 15min levels will end in about 3-3.5hrs with no breaks. You can cut 25-25 to speed it up a bit (or add breaks). Given you just want 3 hours, I don't think cutting the 25-75 level is the worst either.

25-25
25-50
25-75
50-100
75-150
100-200
150-300
200-400
300-600
400-800
600-1200
800-1600
1000-2000


I second or third this. In my opinion, the most important things about blind structure are in order:
1) Evenness of progression
Blinds should go up at an even rate. In this example, no matter where you are in the tourney, the blind rate doubles every two levels. My buddy's home game league goes at an even rate for too long then doubles all at once (1-2, 2-4, 3-6, 4-8, 5-10, 10-20). Don't do that.
2) Rate of progression
* Doubles every 2 levels (the Legend555) for a faster pace, which fits your 3.5 hour mark. Or every 3 levels for a slow burn (The Matt Savage). Take the Legend 555 and add 250-500, 500-1000, 1200-2400, etc.
3) Level length. Longer levels let attrition do its thing, instead of getting to the next level with more short stacks hanging on for dear life. Increases avg stack size.
4) Starting Blinds deep. I can start you 200 blinds deep, but if the blinds double every 15 minutes, you're at 12.5 blinds at the end of an hour.
5) Gross Starting stack.
 
If you go from 400-800 to 600-1200, expect someone to ask "What happened to five-one [500-1000]?" Eventually it may become an ongoing joke that lasts years.

It makes sense to do it that way though, having a 500-1000 always made for an awkward progression.
 
This structure with 5k stacks and 15min levels will end in about 3-3.5hrs with no breaks. You can cut 25-25 to speed it up a bit (or add breaks). Given you just want 3 hours, I don't think cutting the 25-75 level is the worst either.

25-25
25-50
25-75
50-100
75-150
100-200
150-300
200-400
300-600
400-800
600-1200
800-1600
1000-2000

This is pretty solid advice. In my personal opinion, I would prefer to double the starting stacks and blinds (except for the 1200 and 1600 levels, don't double them, use 2000 and 3000 instead). The tourney would play the same, but without the lopsided levels (L1 and L3). I realize @Legend5555 was staying true to your OP, but I'm not. :D
 
@DarkestHorse yeah I understand the sentiment, but I'm going to have some casual players and pretty big newbies here, I mean I'm def. in the casual range, so that little bit of lopsidedness towards luck is a draw and will make it a little more fun I think.


Nothing wrong with slinging chips. That said, I am in the exact same scenario. My most frequent game is social with friends and coworker with some very new players. We started off with similar 3 hour tourneys for low (~$20) buy-ins. They didn’t really want to do cash because tournaments are what they had always done. Now that I finally started them on 0.10/0.10 cash game ($10-$20 buy-in), not one person wants to go back.

Cash with beginners has some massive upsides.
1) Start time is flexible. Don’t have to worry about every single person being there on time.
2) No eliminating people.
3) Leave when you need to (here the trains stop running somewhat early)
4) Beginners get a chance to play a lot of different hands. In a tourney when you get to 20bb, you either just go all in or fold. In our tournaments new players just bled chips and never got to experiment with a hand all night.
5) People don’t lose their whole buy in (most of the time). This has been a big selling point in our game. The bad players had almost no chance of winning the whole thing, so they were just donating to hang out. Now they regularly win a small profit or at least don’t lose everything.

Cash has plenty of luck for new players. It removes the tournament strategy aspect, so it’s much better for learning in my opinion because it simplifies a lot of situations.

At the end of the day though, I totally get the appeal of quick tournaments. Sitting down, slinging chips, and one person walking away with a decent chunk of money and everyone else not out too much and consider it an entertainment fee. Just wanted to highlight cash as an option.

I guess my ultimate advice would be to get a set that could handle both (scale the tournament buy in so the denominations line up.....ie do T2000, but in cash the 2000 would represent $20 if that makes sense). Note that I think this would fall under “unpopular opinion“ on the site as most people prefer 2 sets. Depends on your game / budget, but if it’s a new game I would stay as flex as possible.

I also strongly recommend used ceramic (~0.50/chip). They feel tremendously better in my opinion and don’t smell (China clay will have a slight smell, doesn’t bother most people, but is noticeabl). I posted this in the other thread about new chips, but the players (mostly beginners) in my group who know nothing about poker chips unanimously thought the china clays were the cheapest, and the cheap 13.5g chips were the most expensive along with ceramic. I wouldn’t put a ton of weight in that, but I found it interesting.
 
@Beakertwang what are rental fees normally, any idea? I'll have to look at previous posts and see if I can find some reference points.

@DarkestHorse great info. and some very strong points!
 
the players (mostly beginners) in my group who know nothing about poker chips unanimously thought the china clays were the cheapest, and the cheap 13.5g chips were the most expensive

"These chips are so light, and why are there hats on the edges? How's about we all throw in a fiver and you can get some quality 14 gram chips!"
 

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