Edgespot Choices and Progression Help (1 Viewer)

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jskel

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Just was browsing the CPC website and looking at the edge spots. I have a couple of questions for you guys as I don't know what direction to go. The set would contain 4 chips and be of the cash variety.

1. From your smallest denomination starting point, is there a suggested guideline to try and follow when making progressions?

2. Does it make sense to stay with edges spots are the same width or locations on chips? Use all 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 inch sized spots

3. Any suggestions keeping from level 1 - level 2 typical progression

Look forward to see what you guys have to say
 
jskel said:
Thought I would get that
Click to expand...

but he is right. I love an edge spot progression on a chipset. Some guys could care less. My preference of a progression is probably different than half, three quarters of the guys/gals on this site.

FWIW, I also like a color progression.
 
I like edge spot progressions that move from basic to complex, in theory. In practice, the problem is that your coolest chips will see the least amount of felt time, at least with a cash set.
I'm not a fan of keeping the spots the same width or location, just because it seems less interesting to me.
I think the best way to go is to just look T a whole bunch of different sets and decide what appeals to you.
Maybe everybody should post their favorites.
Here's my favorite:
(And this one makes little sense progression-wise because the $1 and the $100 have the same pattern.)
IMG_9041.JPG
 
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Trying for a progression is fine, but I believe you definitely should not cling to it come what may. If you simply can't get a good looking chip with the edge spot it'd be intended to have as per the progression, dump the spot pattern and try others.

You can get sets that still look like they have edge spot progression of some sort that use a variety of spot widths. Also don't believe you absolutely have to order your spot progression by level. I personally think the thin but more expensive #DS18 spots fit lower denoms (<= $1) much better while the more bulky and cheaper #D14 ones are good for $5 and up. In the set I'm designing, my $5 actually is one level cheaper than my $1 and 25c.

upNdown, since you posted those Paulson edge spots... I'm really missing the 4TSA18 spots at CPC. Same for the 4TA316. The latter one baffles me even more since they do offer a 3TA316. Is it really that they just can't/won't do them or is this a "on request only" thing of some sort?
 
upNdown said:
This, from the guy who just built a custom set where the chips all have the same pattern, and has another set with no edge spots at all.
But there's a lesson there - do what makes you happy.
Click to expand...

Yes sir. Even if it's solids, or quarter pies, there still is a flow from chip to chip.
 
links_slayer said:
Aren't your custom sets all solid or all 1/4 Pie? lolololol

and wtf is color progression?
Click to expand...

Lol.... can't explain it. Minus the 100 dollar chips, I need to feel like there is a smooth transition from one chip to the next. I'm sure it doesn't make sense too anyone but me, and I'm fine with that.
 
upNdown said:
I like edge spot progressions that move from basic to complex, in theory. In practice, the problem is that your coolest chips will see the least amount of felt time, at least with a cash set.

View attachment 108480
Click to expand...

I second this. Progression does seem to make sense but I would focus more on what is going to see the most table time. For me, making a cash set $100 the best chip in the set would mean I have an awesome chip that makes it to the table maybe once year.
 
This all comes down to personal preference. If not having typical casino colors/progressions in your chips is going to bug you when you play with them, then conform the set to your ideal standards. That's what I did with mine.

My quarters have spots that are not intrusive to the base color of the chip, and by not having any "flash" give the appearance of a cheaper (read: lower denom) chip. I also LOVE the color combination of it.

My $1 gets the most play, and in keeping with a standard casino spot, gets a 2-color single-spot edgespot. Blue/white was the color combo I'm used to seeing for $1s, and I added in a bright pink for a big splash of color that would belong in any casino chip too. My flashiest chip is the $20, and although there aren't many of them in play, they CLEARLY are the star of the show on the table, and their impact makes them that much more meaningful.

If there were a thousand different colors on the table in a 4-denom set, I would hate it. "When everything is unique, nothing is." I want clear chips, colors, and denoms. I don't want to have to work to figure out someone's stack. I also don't want to see every color CPC has to offer on the table at the same time. Visually it makes no sense. I see plenty of sets that have so many colors that if you have a stack of 20 made up of 4 denoms, you would have no idea what chips were in there, let alone how many were in a stack. PASS. These are poker chips, not Warhols.

Also, if I was playing with pink ones and black quarters and purple fivers it would drive me absolutely batshit crazy. I wouldn't mind playing with someone else's chips with THEIR custom colors, but for MY set, I wanted to stick to what you would see in a casino. And they are one of my prize possessions since I designed them from the ground up, and I paid a pretty penny for them to get made.

If you want flashy flagship chips on the table then go for it. If you want clean, professional looking chips, then go with standard colors and edgespot progression.
 
I can echo what others are saying about progression and I totally agree with making your workhorse chips as special as others and not waiting till the upper denom to show the most wow. One thing to consider though is obviously you need more of the workhorse chips so pick a level that not only looks great but is still affordable for 4-5 racks (or whatever the case may be).
 
I like my cash sets to have a progression, with the complexity of the edge spot increasing with the denomination. I like my tourney sets to all have the same edge spot. But half the fun of getting customs is playing around the chip design tool and seeing what works for you. I did a very quick mockup of a very basic set, with just 1 and 2 levels, but again, play around with it until you're satisfied. And if you post a mockup and ask for help, I'm sure you'll have a bunch of people willing to offer their ideas.
basic.png
 
Chippy McChiperson said:
I like my cash sets to have a progression, with the complexity of the edge spot increasing with the denomination. I like my tourney sets to all have the same edge spot. But half the fun of getting customs is playing around the chip design tool and seeing what works for you. I did a very quick mockup of a very basic set, with just 1 and 2 levels, but again, play around with it until you're satisfied. And if you post a mockup and ask for help, I'm sure you'll have a bunch of people willing to offer their ideas.


View attachment 108508
Click to expand...

I have the same thoughts on progressions. low to high and tournament the same. I actually like the more basic edge spots better than the complex ones, but I think I'm in the minority on this.

upload_2017-7-13_16-23-0.png
 
As @72o said start with your workhorse chip and make it however makes you happy. Then from there build around it.

You will end up makes lots of small adjustments as you go and if you want it there is plenty of great advice to be had. My custom set started in spot and after a few weeks ended up much better overall with help from the board, but not a lot different, other than the $20 chip which completely changed, and for the better!

It is a fun journey. Enjoy the ride!

And because we love chips here is a pic of my set.

IMG_2909.JPG
 
Rhodeman77 said:
As @72o said start with your workhorse chip and make it however makes you happy. Then from there build around it.

You will end up makes lots of small adjustments as you go and if you want it there is plenty of great advice to be had. My custom set started in spot and after a few weeks ended up much better overall with help from the board, but not a lot different, other than the $20 chip which completely changed, and for the better!

It is a fun journey. Enjoy the ride!

And because we love chips here is a pic of my set.

View attachment 108541
Click to expand...

That $20.......
 
Rhodeman77 said:
As @72o said start with your workhorse chip and make it however makes you happy. Then from there build around it.

You will end up makes lots of small adjustments as you go and if you want it there is plenty of great advice to be had. My custom set started in spot and after a few weeks ended up much better overall with help from the board, but not a lot different, other than the $20 chip which completely changed, and for the better!

It is a fun journey. Enjoy the ride!

And because we love chips here is a pic of my set.

View attachment 108541
Click to expand...
Is that $1 chip light blue or imperial blue?
 
upNdown said:
I like edge spot progressions that move from basic to complex, in theory. In practice, the problem is that your coolest chips will see the least amount of felt time, at least with a cash set.
I'm not a fan of keeping the spots the same width or location, just because it seems less interesting to me.
I think the best way to go is to just look T a whole bunch of different sets and decide what appeals to you.
Maybe everybody should post their favorites.
Here's my favorite:
(And this one makes little sense progression-wise because the $1 and the $100 have the same pattern.)
View attachment 108480
Click to expand...

Those edge spots for the $1/$100 (somewhat similar to the 818 spots of the WSOP chips) aren't even available for CPC chips, am I right? Does anyone know if Sun-Fly can make them?
 
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I think there are many ways to do spot progressions well. I also think using the same spots works well too. It's all about the overall feel of the set though. Here are the two that I designed, very different concepts, but both work well for my tastes. Oh, and if you don't have white edge spots somewhere, you did it wrong! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO::cool:

IMG_20170721_210423.jpg
IMG_20170424_004935.jpg
 
jskel said:
Just was browsing the CPC website and looking at the edge spots. I have a couple of questions for you guys as I don't know what direction to go. The set would contain 4 chips and be of the cash variety.

1. From your smallest denomination starting point, is there a suggested guideline to try and follow when making progressions?

2. Does it make sense to stay with edges spots are the same width or locations on chips? Use all 1/8 or 1/4 or 1/2 inch sized spots

3. Any suggestions keeping from level 1 - level 2 typical progression

Look forward to see what you guys have to say
Click to expand...
+1 what Rainman Trail said. In my humble opinion, it's all a matter of preference. I typically find a set I like and mimic the edge spots, making small tweaks to suit my taste. I also think no progression (same edge spots) works well if done right. Below are 2 of my all time favorites. The Samurai Palace have what I consider to be one of the best progressions ever. The WSOP have no progression and are AWESOME!! Ultimately, I mimicked the WSOP in my first set, but might lean more toward the Samurai type edge spots in my next.

sam1fgr.jpg
s2843c4f9d5.jpg
downloadfile-6.jpg
 
Interesting to read the opinions on here, as this idea of edge spot progression is something I've been trying to come to grips with while playing around with two different chip sets in the chip designer tool. As others have mentioned, I think I'll just end up putting up my mock ups on here once I'm a little further along with my concepts, and take in the feedback and wisdom of those who have far more experience than I in designing sets.
 
Even using one size of spots can give you a decent spot progression. I created this set when ASM first offered X14 spots to the general public.

IMG_6139.JPG


Of course, now that a 114 and 814 are offered, I may need to make a small addition to the set...
 
links_slayer said:
1. Yes. Whatever you prefer - they're your customs.
2. Yes. Whatever you prefer - they're your customs.
3. Yes. Whatever you prefer - they're your customs.
Click to expand...
=
^^^^^^^What Links said... Get samples, play with the chip design tool, when you find what you like then your good....

Once you start putting ideas together, then ask for suggestions on things you are unsure of, it is fun to see what others come up with for your design..

My $1 chip is the one we use the most, so I wanted that one to be the coolest (to me) But I did put a little progression in it..: HAVE FUN

TMS_Set_Berl.jpg
 
Is there any reason behind to not have edge-spot progression in a Tournament set? I see many tournament set with the same edgespots on each denomination, but never on custom CG sets.
 
I would say simplicity since the actual value of tournament chips are all $0. Cash chips actually grow in monetary value and their complexity and security measures grow as the value increases. It costs more for the more complex edge spots. The last thing you want to do is put expensive complex edge spots on low denomination cash chips or tournament chips that don't need the extra security.
 
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I haven't really worked on a custom set that much, so hard for me to say.


Maybe try a bunch and get samples...
 
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