Color/Progression Thoughts - Tourney Set (1 Viewer)

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Hey guys, Just wanted to see what the experts have to say about a future tourney set I'm slowly working on. I'll be getting samples and tweaking accordingly, but what do you think? I'm undecided on molds, and inlays are a long ways off, but I'm hoping will be shaped and color-matched

Thanks!



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Black T100 and Blurple T500 is not a good idea even in very different chips... but both chips sharing two spot colors is asking for trouble IMO.
Nice chips though... be warned you may decide on simpler spots once you price them out :D
 
You chose some really expensive edge spot combos there. That said, I’m not a fan of spot progression on tournament chips. Either solids or all matching spots. Color matched inlays really help solidify chip colors.
 
Black T100 and Blurple T500 is not a good idea even in very different chips... but both chips sharing two spot colors is asking for trouble IMO.
Nice chips though... be warned you may decide on simpler spots once you price them out :D

I was wondering about black and blurple. Point well taken, I will play around some more, thanks.

You chose some really expensive edge spot combos there. That said, I’m not a fan of spot progression on tournament chips. Either solids or all matching spots. Color matched inlays really help solidify chip colors.

Appreciate the thoughts. The thing is, my group basically never plays cash games, I have a cash set thats never seen a secod on the felt. But, I do love fancy spots and progressions, so yeah, I'm just gonna have to be a bit unconventional I suppose.
 
Here's another try, hopefully less dirty stacks.

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And yeah, I realize these will be worth their weight in gold, but my plan is to have them the rest of my life, I see it as an investment. (not really).
 
I'm blunt, but once you know me, you'll figure out I do this on these posts to really try to help.

So, I'm looking at your set, and I see no flow. Zero. When I see a set, I want it to tell me a story. I want the quarters to be quarters, and the hundos to shake the earth when you see them. Same with tourney. I need that 25 chip to tell me it's worth 25, and I need that 5k to kick me in the balls.

I see one chip that's kinda speaking to me, and that's your 500. It has personality. It works to me. You can pick any chip, but then I'd start framing the rest of the set around that one. Also, you have piles of colors and seem to just hit the bright ones. Sometimes, it's the light blue next to that arc yellow that makes the arc yellow pop. See as in these claim stakes. Don't use a color because it's bright, use a color because it's right.
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First, grab a color sample set from CPC. See the colors in your hands. The monitor does not match the actual color. Second, find that base chip and mold and play, figure out what the flow needs to be. Could be a color... maybe make the spots all the same color, making it a family, but various chip colors. Could be one spot in the 25. Two spots in the 100. Three spots in the 500. There are a billion ways to make flow.

If you want. Feel free to PM me and I can show you the tourney set I'm having made and let you see how I did it.

If not, good luck! This is the best hobby, just remember. It's a marathon, never a sprint. It can take months to get these made, spend a week or two and try the various molds, see each color, make sure they are perfect for the rest of your life.
 
I'm blunt, but once you know me, you'll figure out I do this on these posts to really try to help.

So, I'm looking at your set, and I see no flow. Zero. When I see a set, I want it to tell me a story. I want the quarters to be quarters, and the hundos to shake the earth when you see them. Same with tourney. I need that 25 chip to tell me it's worth 25, and I need that 5k to kick me in the balls.

I see one chip that's kinda speaking to me, and that's your 500. It has personality. It works to me. You can pick any chip, but then I'd start framing the rest of the set around that one. Also, you have piles of colors and seem to just hit the bright ones. Sometimes, it's the light blue next to that arc yellow that makes the arc yellow pop. See as in these claim stakes. Don't use a color because it's bright, use a color because it's right.

First, grab a color sample set from CPC. See the colors in your hands. The monitor does not match the actual color. Second, find that base chip and mold and play, figure out what the flow needs to be. Could be a color... maybe make the spots all the same color, making it a family, but various chip colors. Could be one spot in the 25. Two spots in the 100. Three spots in the 500. There are a billion ways to make flow.

If you want. Feel free to PM me and I can show you the tourney set I'm having made and let you see how I did it.

If not, good luck! This is the best hobby, just remember. It's a marathon, never a sprint. It can take months to get these made, spend a week or two and try the various molds, see each color, make sure they are perfect for the rest of your life.

Thanks for this, some really great points I hadn't really thought about. Youre right about me going heavy on the dayglo/bright colors, the drab tones while they are nice, just don't really do it for me. With the spots, I've always liked more complex patterns, but I understand that comes at a price of them looking busy. In my head there was a bit of a progression, although unconventional. But if others aren't seeing it, I will definetly keep that in mind.

Anyways I appreciate the detailed response.

Seth
 
Black T100 and Blurple T500 is not a good idea even in very different chips... but both chips sharing two spot colors is asking for trouble IMO.
^^ This. Try using charcoal (or bright white) for your T100 chip to set it apart from the blurple/purple T500, or using retro lavender for the T500 base if fixated on having a black hundo.
 

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