Blinds: 25¢/50¢ or 50¢/50¢… is there really a difference? (5 Viewers)

Blinds: 25¢/50¢ or 50¢/50¢… and is there really a difference?

  • 25¢/50¢

    Votes: 17 81.0%
  • 50¢/50¢

    Votes: 4 19.0%

  • Total voters
    21
25c/50c. Cause the initial buy in is $100 not $200.
We do half of biggest for match. So rebuys are $1-200. You lose maybe $5-600 on a terrible night.

50/50c Initial would be $200; rebuys would be 200-$400. You probably lose $1K+ on a bad night.

Poker wise does it make a difference?
Probably not.

Game running/ game health / sustainment of a consistent game?
I think it has an impact. Losing $300 hopefully isn't lifre impacting money for anyone in my game. I know it isn't. Losing $1K? Probably is for some people.

I rather have a consistent game with vetted players. We did like 60 sessions last year. Rather than have a slightly bigger game and have to semi constantly recruit more player.

I know for a fact some of my players have a stop lost of $300. Not because it's 3 bullets. But of the potential financial impacts.
 
My biggest gripe with .5/.5 or any other blind structure where the small and big are the same is that there is very little difference between 1st and 2nd position except who goes when. Blinds being equal, you have zero incentive to fold a hand from the small unless there is a raise. That’s good for action, suck outs, bad beats etc, but I prefer more decision making and strategy whenever possible. There isn’t a lot that you can do about it at smaller stakes, but it’s hard enough to get people to drop a hand for just a few dollars/cents. Giving 2 people an auto free look in a passive game/hand doesn’t sit well with me.

Smaller potatoes, but I find it harder to remember who’s small and big when folks aren’t paying attention and someone forgets to move the button. Keeping the blinds different usually makes it easier to recall who put out the one chip and who put out the two chips in the previous hand.

From a dollars and cents stand point, there isn’t much of a difference. I play a .25/.5 game that runs way more like a .5/1 game.

It’s not an issue of right or wrong. Just a strong personal preference.
 
Depends on why you’re hosting and what kind of players you have imo.

My guys are idiots, don’t care about learning, just want to “touch some cards” as we like to say. 50¢/50¢ works best in this scenario in my opinion. If I’m not in the hand most hands are going to the flop limped anyway, so there is no difference between SB calling 25¢ or checking.

My biggest pro: almost no bets are made using the frac past pre-flop. My players reach for the $1’s much more frequently playing 50/50. It has been making for bigger pots, and this in turn actually is getting them think a little more, which I count as a positive.
 
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Sometimes I sheepishly like betting odd amounts to collect a tower of fracs for shits and giggles. But I digress.
3:30 in the morning, flop is betting $3.75 into a $15 pot while telling us why he doesnt like the musical Chicago. It's exhausting mind games.
 
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In my group, there isn't a difference. We only need to to a $200 buy in the big bonds is $1.
 
25c/50c. Cause the initial buy in is $100 not $200.
? the calc for 200 BB is based on the BB only right? So then $100 as a buy in works for both .25/.5 and .5/.5. - So now that you know you'll be hosting a .5/.5?
My biggest gripe with .5/.5 or any other blind structure where the small and big are the same is that there is very little difference between 1st and 2nd position except who goes when. Blinds being equal, you have zero incentive to fold a hand from the small unless there is a raise.
I find the small bind only folds in a .5/.5 if there is a raise, it's the same in both lol, but it speeds up the action in the .5/.5
 
I play mostly .25/.50 for NL and PL games, sometimes .25/.25 PL. As a practical matter, I think .50/.50 plays about the same as .25/.50 in NL games. As @Rieguy mentioned, whether you have quarters or halves is important.

Another blinds issue for .25/.50 PL is whether to treat the SB as .25 or assume completion at .50 pre-flop (I prefer the latter because I think it's easier to calculate the pot pre-flop).
 

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