Explain Tina chips to me (1 Viewer)

Question for any Tina chip owners, when you receive an order of Tina chips from the group buy. Is there anything you need to do to them, wash them with dish soap, rinse off just with water anything? Or right out of the box their ready to fly? Thanks
 
Question for any Tina chip owners, when you receive an order of Tina chips from the group buy. Is there anything you need to do to them, wash them with dish soap, rinse off just with water anything? Or right out of the box their ready to fly? Thanks

Each roll of 25 chips are wrapped in plastic, but they can be slightly dusty. So I like to wipe them with a damp paper towel. But I’ve also played with them out of the box without issues.
 
Ceramic chips when totally smooth are uhh... Ceramics. Chips using the same material but having indented/debossed edge designs along with a recessed center are called "hybrids" as in "they're ceramic, but they're like traditional chips with indentations for designs... so uhhh, we'll just call them hybrid."
Been scratching my head with the "hybrid" designation for a while. I thought it meant it contained two different materials (plastic and fairy dust) thank you
 
Been scratching my head with the "hybrid" designation for a while. I thought it meant it contained two different materials (plastic and fairy dust) thank you
Facts Yes GIF by CC0 Studios
 
I actually have both. The Apache Taj Mahals have slightly different artwork in regards to edge spots. As to the ceramic blanks, I can’t say, but the Justin Taj Mahals have a whole lot less spinners.
 
Wait, really? I feel like I’ve seen a bunch of full bleed Tina’s designs (Stardust, Lunar Landing, etc.).
They will adjust the margins to protect what they deem as the critical art - usually text, denom, or any main logos. In the case of the Tangiers faux inlays, they also adjusted the margins there too as the faux inlays were deemed critical. But half the designs have background art that can be trimmed without making the design look off.

I'm good with the adjustments generally, but their printer has less variance than the adjustments they make (more heavy handed).
 
They will adjust the margins to protect what they deem as the critical art - usually text, denom, or any main logos. In the case of the Tangiers faux inlays, they also adjusted the margins there too as the faux inlays were deemed critical. But half the designs have background art that can be trimmed without making the design look off.

I'm good with the adjustments generally, but their printer has less variance than the adjustments they make (more heavy handed).
Hi @Cratty ,
I'm trying to get some of my own designs right for Tina. Could you explain your process for handling bleed a little more? I'm looking at your Cratty House set for example. It has a black border around the inlay. For this, one did you just submit a 24mm label without any bleed? Or did you submit a larger label (with extra black around the desired cut area) with some sort of instructions and/or indication in the file of where the cut should be made?
Thanks for the help!
 
To prevent miscommunication with China, I have been sending the labels as a mask of their final size with the image behind it (if this makes sense).
Hi @Colquhoun , can you clarify this a bit? Let's say you are designing for a 24mm label. Are you saying that you'll create the design with a bleed area (for a total size of 28mm, or something like that), and then you add a clipping mask that is 24mm? Do you try to communicate the clipping mask to Tina/Justin, or just hope she figures it out?
Thanks for your help!
 
Hi @Colquhoun , can you clarify this a bit? Let's say you are designing for a 24mm label. Are you saying that you'll create the design with a bleed area (for a total size of 28mm, or something like that), and then you add a clipping mask that is 24mm? Do you try to communicate the clipping mask to Tina/Justin, or just hope she figures it out?
Thanks for your help!
I included bleed on chips early on with Tina jobs, and quickly found that the label printer (she sends them out to a 3rd party) ignores my cut lines, reduces the label slightly, and makes the real cut in a slightly different spot than I specified. This still happens on every chip I’ve submitted, regardless of my instructions in English and Mandarin.
I think the printer feels the live areas I’ve used are not where they prefer, so they alter them slightly.
To me, the fact that they alter the size/cut is just a necessary evil…for getting a good chip with a beautiful label at a great price. It would be nice to have it all, though... :p

My suggestion is to provide labels without bleed, clipping mask right at 24mm, and be flexible with your expectations. Be careful if using a thin line around the edge of your labels, it’s always tricky to cut them just right, and the printer will thicken the art accordingly.
 
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I included bleed on chips early on with Tina jobs, and quickly found that the label printer (she sends them out to a 3rd party) ignores my cut lines, reduces the label slightly, and makes the real cut in a slightly different spot than I specified. This still happens on every chip I’ve submitted, regardless of my instructions in English and Mandarin.
I think the printer feels the live areas I’ve used are not where they prefer, so they alter them slightly.
To me, the fact that they alter the size/cut is just a necessary evil…for getting a good chip with a beautiful label at a great price. It would be nice to have it all, though... :p

My suggestion is to provide labels without bleed, clipping mask right at 24mm, and be flexible with your expectations. Be careful if using a thin line around the edge of your labels, it’s always tricky to cut them just right, and the printer will thicken the art accordingly.
Got it! Thanks so much for sharing your expertise!
 

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