Cash Game Totally Rethinking My Micro Cash Set I'm building - Jack Detroit (1 Viewer)

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Ok, here's my question and hoping you all can help. I'm a 5 year host of tourney style CC Pharaoh's that just woke up to PCF last month, Just woke up to the wonder of Cash games and working tirelessly at acquiring a Micro cash set of JACK DETROITS, lord willing. (shameless plug, any help would be wonderful)

So we have now, one cash game under our belt thanks to the forums advise and a set of majestic CC that will work for the time being while I build my dream set. We have another game coming up this next weekend so not many cash games under my belt yet. And I'm building the jacks so I'm really focused on the right amount of denoms and chips. I'm starting to rethink my whole distribution of denominations. Help me with what racks you think I need.

Below is my game, stakes, buyins, etc. and the original plan for racks and barrels. Can you guys take a look at what I'm building here and suggest some advise? I was chatting with some folks in another thread about dispensing with nickels in order to thin down the amount of chips you're buying. Obviously that's great for my wallet but I want the table of 10 to feel like they're playing with enough chips as well. The $20 buyin will prolly not change much, maybe $25 since JACKS don't have $20 chips. Beyond that I don't see myself playing $1 blinds or $50 buyins. I surveyed the group last game and one person prefers $50, all the rest said $20 and one person said $10 lol and another said $20 unless the kids are playing then maybe 10. So you see I've got a group that's been playing a bit and likes the buyin.

Question is more around what stakes I should play and chips I need. Below WAS my plan, would be nice to get a second opinion. Would love to fit them all in a nanuk 910 but that may not be possible either to get it down to 4 racks. Not a big deal. It's more about having the right amount of racks and barrels. And also what chips are available and not having to murder a ton of chips would be nice.

My Cash Game
  • $20 buyins friends and fam, unlimited rebuys
  • Nickle/dime stakes now, (open to suggestions but also tell me why)
  • 10 person table with a total buy maybe around $400 total. So pretty friendly but max fun.
  • Rebuys will have to be four $5 chips unless I raise buyins for $25 (what would you do?)
MY ORIGINAL Jack Detroit PLAN (5-6 racks)
  • 100 nickels murdered SY 2s
  • 100-200 quarters JD murdered pink snappers
  • 200 dollars JD
  • 60 fives JD
  • 20 twenty fives JD
  • 20 hundreds JD
PS> any help acquiring any of these would be awesome. Everyone's been super helpful so far and I'm close on some of them. Still a ways to go with $5s tho. Thanks.
 
If that buy-in structure is keeping your players comfortable and making for good action, keep it exactly as it is. No one else's preferences matter.

I'd keep rebuys at $20. It's a nice, convenient amount that's easy for people to part with, and it's much simpler for banking than $25 rebuys.

You probably don't need hundos, but I can't argue with wanting a barrel anyway.
 
Depends how your game plays, but my nickel/dime game needs way more quarters than 100. 200 minimum, they do most of the work and a barrel being $5 is very efficient and approachable for people/banker. That being said, we also love our nickels, I've got 200 and they all get on the table. Very soft game though, lots of limping and small bets.
 
If only you had put this out there when you first signed up. :(

I sold off my pretty large Jack Detroit relabel set with two racks each $1's, $5's, secondary $25's, primary $100's, and a rack of SY $2's that would have been perfect for your game as I relabeled them for nickel stakes up to 0.50/$1 stakes. Good luck in your search!
 
You probably don't need hundos, but I can't argue with wanting a barrel anyway.
haha, yes I'm learning. TBH I have 5 Jack Detroit primary 500s so that barrel will look more like 15 hundos and 5 500s ya baby.

As for the stakes, starting stacks and chip racks... I've only hosted one cash game so far with the Majestic CCs and I'm still building the Jack Detroits so I really don't know what I need in terms of racks and barrels. I'm close but when you're paying $5 a chip for Smuckers Jam Red Chips and Fracs I need to make sure I'm close to the mark on starting stacks, stakes, and the set ya know?
 
Depends how your game plays, but my nickel/dime game needs way more quarters than 100. 200 minimum, they do most of the work and a barrel being $5 is very efficient and approachable for people/banker. That being said, we also love our nickels, I've got 200 and they all get on the table. Very soft game though, lots of limping and small bets.
Tell me your game man... buyin, number of people, rebuys with what chips? (4 fives?) and assuming your stakes are nickle/dime right? Love it, thanks for the reply.

I have a rack of Jack Snappers cued up to ship and those will be quarters, sounds like I need a rack or two more of those then based on your input. Getting murdered
 
If only you had put this out there when you first signed up. :(

I sold off my pretty large Jack Detroit relabel set with two racks each $1's, $5's, secondary $25's, primary $100's, and a rack of SY $2's that would have been perfect for your game as I relabeled them for nickel stakes up to 0.50/$1 stakes. Good luck in your search!
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If only you had put this out there when you first signed up. :(

I sold off my pretty large Jack Detroit relabel set with two racks each $1's, $5's, secondary $25's, primary $100's, and a rack of SY $2's that would have been perfect for your game as I relabeled them for nickel stakes up to 0.50/$1 stakes. Good luck in your search!
That's exactly what I'm trying to do. Do you happen to have photos of the set still or a link to the sale? I'd love to see them. Feel free to message these as well. It's exactly what I'm building. I have my 2 racks of 1s, working hard at getting some Jack 5s. Snappers as quarters and SY 2s as nickels. I'd love to see them all labeled up. I was going back and forth on the nickels to either use SY 2s or perhaps Paris 2s.
 
Tell me your game man... buyin, number of people, rebuys with what chips? (4 fives?) and assuming your stakes are nickle/dime right? Love it, thanks for the reply.

I have a rack of Jack Snappers cued up to ship and those will be quarters, sounds like I need a rack or two more of those then based on your input. Getting murdered
Buyin between $5-20 with most opting for $10. Rebuys same amount, no match or anything.

People wise 10 max on the table, most we've had is 15 unique players and 13ish rebuys, wrapped a bottle in electrical tape and whoever finished it got a free buyin. Brutal idea, but we handled it.

Starting stacks at the beginning of the night are a barrel of 5c ($1) and add quarters until you either get to their buyin or a full barrel ($5), then do the rest in $1s. Ends up being 54 chips for $20, looks good and my players like the chips. Absolutely not efficient.

Rebuys I usually give dollars and $5s. For noobs, I usually add in a few dollars in quarters instead, hence having the extras. Piles of chips is not efficient but microstakes is fun with stacks, whatever. If I know the player is decent I just toss $5 chips and go back to dedicated dealing, they can figure it out.
 
Buyin between $5-20 with most opting for $10. Rebuys same amount, no match or anything.

People wise 10 max on the table, most we've had is 15 unique players and 13ish rebuys, wrapped a bottle in electrical tape and whoever finished it got a free buyin. Brutal idea, but we handled it.

Starting stacks at the beginning of the night are a barrel of 5c ($1) and add quarters until you either get to their buyin or a full barrel ($5), then do the rest in $1s. Ends up being 54 chips for $20, looks good and my players like the chips. Absolutely not efficient.

Rebuys I usually give dollars and $5s. For noobs, I usually add in a few dollars in quarters instead, hence having the extras. Piles of chips is not efficient but microstakes is fun with stacks, whatever. If I know the player is decent I just toss $5 chips and go back to dedicated dealing, they can figure it out.
Thanks for sharing man, that sounds like fun. I was starting with a stack of dollars (20) and removing the top 5 for a stack of quarters, then removing two quarters for a half stack of nickels. Worked well for the first night and ends up 43 chips with majority quarters and dollars. I'm wondering if I can just avoid nickels all together but might be too pinched with .25/.25 and a $20 buyin. Eh... idk
 
Thanks for sharing man, that sounds like fun. I was starting with a stack of dollars (20) and removing the top 5 for a stack of quarters, then removing two quarters for a half stack of nickels. Worked well for the first night and ends up 43 chips with majority quarters and dollars. I'm wondering if I can just avoid nickels all together but might be too pinched with .25/.25 and a $20 buyin. Eh... idk
Personally that would be tight for my game, I'd make 10c and 50c chips before making the jump from nickel/dime to quarters. Up to you!
 
That's good advise. Sound like I'll be picking needing two racks of SY 2s now at least for nickels. Thanks for the insights.
Up to you. Most everybody on this site only needs 100 of their minimum chip, Im just being honest about my experience. Feel free to only give 10 and make up the difference, that's fine too and way more economical. Mine are cheap chips so I could do that.
 
Thanks for sharing man, that sounds like fun. I was starting with a stack of dollars (20) and removing the top 5 for a stack of quarters, then removing two quarters for a half stack of nickels. Worked well for the first night and ends up 43 chips with majority quarters and dollars. I'm wondering if I can just avoid nickels all together but might be too pinched with .25/.25 and a $20 buyin. Eh... idk

If I were you, I would wait until I had at least a few more games under my belt before committing. The chips you are chasing are not cheap (as you know), I'd want to nail down the stakes the group is comfortable with before making any rash decisions.

Host a few more games with your Majestics to get a feel. I mean, the Majestics are probably pretty impressive to your group of players, no? ;)
 
I'm considering moving toward a Paulson RHC NCV chip in a color that makes sense for nickels or thousands and just use them as a more flexible chip at the low ends and high ends of this set and future sets. prolly won't be labeling them, foil stamped preferably. This way I'll just get the 1s and 5s I need, relabel some quarters and then NCVs for the low ends. then I don't have to stress on actual starting stacks and stakes. and Stop chasing the perfect color/label for nickels that just fit with jack detroits. What do you guys think?
 
Hey fellow detroit seeker! (GO 5s for my shameless plug).

Here's one I don't see often, but before I got my hands on any fracs (MGM detroit is great btw if you don't mind mixed sets) for our once in a while low stake games, we multiplied instead of playing in true value.

Typically we would just base it on a $1/$2 game. So everyone always got $200 in chips.

$20 buy in? Ok 10X - ok you're now playing a 10¢/20¢ game, that allows you to bet and play like a 1/2

$50 buy in? Ok, 4x - now you're playing a 25¢/50¢ game. Still with the same $200 in chips.


Cash out? Add up your stack and divide
 
I'm considering moving toward a Paulson RHC NCV chip in a color that makes sense for nickels or thousands and just use them as a more flexible chip at the low ends and high ends of this set and future sets. prolly won't be labeling them, foil stamped preferably. This way I'll just get the 1s and 5s I need, relabel some quarters and then NCVs for the low ends. then I don't have to stress on actual starting stacks and stakes. and Stop chasing the perfect color/label for nickels that just fit with jack detroits. What do you guys think?
PErsonally, I think the denomination is integral to the design. But I know others hold the opinion that non-denoms are okay too. So it comes down to preference.

I think you have the right idea for a breakdown, and to be honest, having hosted a similar family game at these sorts of stakes, you will almost never need to get 5s in play.

Personally, I like the idea of relabeling the pink snappers as nickels and then trying to find a brown chip for quarters (the SY 5s for example might be a good choice.
 
PErsonally, I think the denomination is integral to the design. But I know others hold the opinion that non-denoms are okay too. So it comes down to preference.

I think you have the right idea for a breakdown, and to be honest, having hosted a similar family game at these sorts of stakes, you will almost never need to get 5s in play.

Personally, I like the idea of relabeling the pink snappers as nickels and then trying to find a brown chip for quarters (the SY 5s for example might be a good choice.
Would you use pink jack snappers and relabel them as quarters and peach perhaps as nickels or the other way around. I have a thread where we visually explore this and some comments were introduced stating peach nickels and pink quarters made more sense for the jack Detroit. Thoughts?

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Also I have a thread regarding the proper solid nickel poll. Would love your input on this. Gives me NCV flexibility in the nickel and reuse options with other sets and games.

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ickels-thousands-etc-poll.102119/post-2112984
 
Would you use pink jack snappers and relabel them as quarters and peach perhaps as nickels or the other way around. I have a thread where we visually explore this and some comments were introduced stating peach nickels and pink quarters made more sense for the jack Detroit. Thoughts?
Oh I had missed that thread ovbiously. I like pink as a nickel because I perceive that as a "light 5, light red" sort of setup. I'll check out your other thread. :), good luck.
 
Just my two cents for how my $20 buy in game goes. We play $0.25/$0.25 blinds (gives everyone 80 bb). Starting stacks are 12 quarts and 17 $1. It works well for my table. Most pre flop raises are in the $1-3 range and most guys will depart with $40-80 dollars if they are getting stacked often. We only play for three hours though so that may be a factor as well. Idk my exact count but I have I believe 125 quarts, 300 $1 and 175 $5 for a total of 600 chips. We haven't come close to running out of chips. However I usually don't table the $5 unless all the $1 are in play.
 
Just my two cents for how my $20 buy in game goes. We play $0.25/$0.25 blinds (gives everyone 80 bb). Starting stacks are 12 quarts and 17 $1. It works well for my table. Most pre flop raises are in the $1-3 range and most guys will depart with $40-80 dollars if they are getting stacked often. We only play for three hours though so that may be a factor as well. Idk my exact count but I have I believe 125 quarts, 300 $1 and 175 $5 for a total of 600 chips. We haven't come close to running out of chips. However I usually don't table the $5 unless all the $1 are in play.
Wow this really helps man I appreciate it. Prolly the only difference between your game and mine would be all the guys spend about half that amount. Guys depart with $20-40 and a few usual suspects about $60 for the night. Would love to shed the nickels but I think I may just try some of these stakes and get some test games in. Thanks man.
 
So you have 10 players and the median preferred buy in is $20 (maybe $25)?

I'm assuming this is no limit. Do your players understand they will need multiple $20 buy ins for the session, or is the $20 for the entire session? Answer this question and set stakes accordingly based each player bringing 3 buy ins for the session. Note the number of buy ins per player per session will vary based on how much gamble your players have. 3 is a good place to start to and adjust saw needed.

Your entire bank can be calculated based on this analysis.
 
Assuming 10 players with multiple $20 buy ins a night, .25/.25 blinds are reasonable of you're on a budget. If no budget and you want more chips/denominations, .10/.25.

100 x nickels - Optional if you don't go .25/.25.

120-200 quarters - More limping/calling and less raising requires more blind chips.

200-400 x dollars - The workhorse depends on your budget and how many chips you want to see on the table. If you have lots of these they'll be used for the first few rebuys too, so don't expect to get many higher denominations in play.

Finally, top up the rest of your total bank with $5s and/or $25s for rebuys.
 
Your game is not dissimilar to ours at present.

We play .20/.20 with a $20 buyin, unlimited rebuys and top offs up to half the big stack.

My custom cash set (waiting on placing my label order) is as follows:

200 non denom (we play then as .10 presently)
200 .50
200 1.00
60 5.00
40 20.00

700 chips

The non-denom let’s the game go to .25/.50 or smaller if we choose.

We never bring more of the non-denoms to the table and are just good at floating then around for change for blinds.

All add-ons/rebuys are a mix of $1 & $5 chips

Starting stacks:
20 non denoms - $2
20 .50 - $10
8 1.00 - $8

$20 - 100 BB’s

It’s a good set up in my opinion. I based it on over 40 cash games and the chips that we put in play over that time.

I don’t see our game getting any larger in the near future as there is plenty of action and big pots where we’re at now.
 
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Your game is not dissimilar to ours at present.

We play .20/.20 with a $20 buyin, unlimited rebuys and top offs up to half the big stack.

My custom cash set (waiting on placing my label order) is as follows:

200 non denom (we play then as .10 presently)
200 .50
200 1.00
60 5.00
40 20.00

700 chips

The non-denom let’s the game go to .25/.50 or smaller if we choose.

We never bring more of the non-denoms to the table and are just good at floating then around for change for blinds.

All add-ons/rebuys are $5 chips

Starting stacks:
20 non denoms - $2
20 .50 - $10
8 1.00 - $8

$20 - 100 BB’s

It’s a good set up in my opinion. I based it on over 40 cash games and the chips that we put in play over that time.

I don’t see our game getting any larger in the near future as there is plenty of action and big pots where we’re at now.
Thanks man. That helps. I think that’s a great idea doing the NCV non denoms at the low end but still thinking quarters for the next. Do you have any rational “other than it just works” why I should move to 50¢ over quarters?
 
The .50’s are more functional no matter what the non-denom is. It won’t make your game crazy and you want those .50’s to sort of “future-proof” the set a little.

Those non-denoms play as .25’s whenever you need them to and they won’t necessarily kill your 50’s.

I struggled with my set thinking I might need as many as 1000 chips. Nope. I’ve spread 46 cash games since October and just looked at what we had in play at the end of the night.

The 700 does it.
 
Also maybe the group can chime in on this. I have a good long time friend joining tomorrow evening who plays high stakes with another group of friends. He’s telling me some of the house rules they play in their high stakes games and one of those house rules is something like…

“If your cashing out you need to announce like an hour before leaving”

This rational was if someone doubles up they can’t just leave the table but allow others to win back. Honestly I’ve never thought of this nite have I ever heard this. I see the logic tho.

Should I be concerned about this or is this a ridiculous rule? I’m asking honestly what are the thoughts here. Seems kinda petty.
 
Also maybe the group can chime in on this. I have a good long time friend joining tomorrow evening who plays high stakes with another group of friends. He’s telling me some of the house rules they play in their high stakes games and one of those house rules is something like…

“If your cashing out you need to announce like an hour before leaving”

This rational was if someone doubles up they can’t just leave the table but allow others to win back. Honestly I’ve never thought of this nite have I ever heard this. I see the logic tho.

Should I be concerned about this or is this a ridiculous rule? I’m asking honestly what are the thoughts here. Seems kinda petty.
Good form is to announce “I’m out when the button get back to me.” At the least. But it’s form.

We don’t enforce any such rule but as host I make a note of people if they rake and split. Rarely happens. More often is the bust and bail. And I only note it and shrug. Life goes on. They won’t get skipped for the next session if there’s a seat. Other invites might get out before they get theirs but that would be the worst of it.

It’s a cash game. Come and go as you wish. It’s not ideal but they’ll be back. Home games rely on that. Rules can get out of hand.
 

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