CPC = Color Perception Confusion
My own color samples arrived this week. I was seriously confused at first and will share some of my (more obvious) observations below:
- most colors are as before seen, some are quite different
- all Dayglos (except orange) are waaay more vivid/intense than the samples I got from @PatTheCat a while ago, barely sitting in AdobeRGB (maybe) but definately outside of sRGB.
- The whole line frome Blurple to Retro Lavender is more differentiated - just bigger color-gaps between them
- Maroon is a dark but rich brownish red, not nearly as dark as before
- The Bright White is much lighter as seen before - really clean and bright
- The brass flakes in weighted colors are more coarse than in the first samples I've seen - seems like I have to overhaul my material definitions
Quick notes to my mold samples
- I have six different shades of white in my hands - seven if I count the one from the color samples. Photos don't do justice to the slighter variations but from the snap you should clearly distinguish three.
- The diameters of the various molds ranging from 39,3 mm to 39,8 mm, I was thinking they're the same?!
Two extras were included (ha! thanks!), they look like promo-chips.
#1 Base color is a variant of Mandarin Red (differs slightly from the color sample) with spots in green (match), yellow (match) and purple (clearly less saturated than my sample but a match in luma)
#2 Base Imperial Blue (darker and more greenish than sample) and a green I've never seen before. It doesn't even come close to any of my sample colors: a very warm, rich middle green. Dunno what to make of this. Could be that it is a severely degraded Dayglo Green?!
Onto some tests:
I put my samples on a decent scanner and snapped them with a dslr as well (whitebalance from graycard), averaged the 'measurements' and put the new colors into my renderpipeline.
The results are (mostly) ok when setting my monitor to D5000 or D5500 which is roughly my lighting situation indoors before noon with mostly overcast sky. D65 is too cold/bluish compared to real-world light (and there is no technical lightsource emitting D65 with a full wavelength spectrum in the first place, afaik).
I discounted all dayglo colors from the scans as they look plain wrong (in general much too bright and undersaturated). It seems that the combination of scanner lighting/CCDs and the conversion of light waves into other visible wavelengths these dayglo pigments do is just beyond the gamut of the device.
Taking all observations into account I would assume that there is a mild color variation from the factory coupled with a significant degradation of the Dayglo pigments and a slight degradation of some other pigments over time (unless you keep them in the dark basement with your potatoes).
I'm kinda lost now and the whole approach to get good color representation from my renders feels quite questionable. And it explains some of my observations when looking at photos from actual chips and samples that always threw me off in the past (I'm no slouch when it comes to compensating lighting situations and typical camera tendencies when viewing pictures).
My temporary conclusion and approach after these tests boiled down to this:
I did exactly this today from scratch with the colors for my metronome set. Funny thing is, I ended with colors pretty close to the colors I already had. But it will take some time to update the other colors as well and do a full recap of all things involved in render setups.
What I problably won't do is this:
Can anyone confirm or counter my observations? Any reasonable (not overly expensive/sophisticated/third-party) methods to improve from where I am? Would like to hear some other points of view or possible solutions/suggestions to to my dilemma.
My own color samples arrived this week. I was seriously confused at first and will share some of my (more obvious) observations below:
- most colors are as before seen, some are quite different
- all Dayglos (except orange) are waaay more vivid/intense than the samples I got from @PatTheCat a while ago, barely sitting in AdobeRGB (maybe) but definately outside of sRGB.
- The whole line frome Blurple to Retro Lavender is more differentiated - just bigger color-gaps between them
- Maroon is a dark but rich brownish red, not nearly as dark as before
- The Bright White is much lighter as seen before - really clean and bright
- The brass flakes in weighted colors are more coarse than in the first samples I've seen - seems like I have to overhaul my material definitions
Quick notes to my mold samples
- I have six different shades of white in my hands - seven if I count the one from the color samples. Photos don't do justice to the slighter variations but from the snap you should clearly distinguish three.
- The diameters of the various molds ranging from 39,3 mm to 39,8 mm, I was thinking they're the same?!

Two extras were included (ha! thanks!), they look like promo-chips.
#1 Base color is a variant of Mandarin Red (differs slightly from the color sample) with spots in green (match), yellow (match) and purple (clearly less saturated than my sample but a match in luma)
#2 Base Imperial Blue (darker and more greenish than sample) and a green I've never seen before. It doesn't even come close to any of my sample colors: a very warm, rich middle green. Dunno what to make of this. Could be that it is a severely degraded Dayglo Green?!

Onto some tests:
I put my samples on a decent scanner and snapped them with a dslr as well (whitebalance from graycard), averaged the 'measurements' and put the new colors into my renderpipeline.
The results are (mostly) ok when setting my monitor to D5000 or D5500 which is roughly my lighting situation indoors before noon with mostly overcast sky. D65 is too cold/bluish compared to real-world light (and there is no technical lightsource emitting D65 with a full wavelength spectrum in the first place, afaik).
I discounted all dayglo colors from the scans as they look plain wrong (in general much too bright and undersaturated). It seems that the combination of scanner lighting/CCDs and the conversion of light waves into other visible wavelengths these dayglo pigments do is just beyond the gamut of the device.
Taking all observations into account I would assume that there is a mild color variation from the factory coupled with a significant degradation of the Dayglo pigments and a slight degradation of some other pigments over time (unless you keep them in the dark basement with your potatoes).
I'm kinda lost now and the whole approach to get good color representation from my renders feels quite questionable. And it explains some of my observations when looking at photos from actual chips and samples that always threw me off in the past (I'm no slouch when it comes to compensating lighting situations and typical camera tendencies when viewing pictures).
My temporary conclusion and approach after these tests boiled down to this:
- I go with my personal visual interpretation an do my best in directly comparing/adjusting monitor colors with real chip colors in (roughly) D50 lighting and calibration-setting - got no light-box and it's more likely I'm buying chips instead of one. I do a warm-up of 20 - 30 min to complete human chromatic adaption and my monitor does warm up as well, so both of us are at 'working-temperature'.
- I will then shift these colors in order to compensate for the shift from D50(D55) to D65 (widely used when calibrating with standard tools in the ~$100 range).
- devil-may-care
I did exactly this today from scratch with the colors for my metronome set. Funny thing is, I ended with colors pretty close to the colors I already had. But it will take some time to update the other colors as well and do a full recap of all things involved in render setups.
What I problably won't do is this:
- let my (still questionable) samples get measured by a costly pro-service and convert these colors from *L *a *b to a gamut like AdobeRGB or any other colorspace applicable to RGB-monitors (I assume that a fair amount of Dayglos would still be out of these).
- then go with these measurements and postulate them as 'ultimate real' colors.
- secretly adjusting render lighting until getting 'pleasant' results.
Can anyone confirm or counter my observations? Any reasonable (not overly expensive/sophisticated/third-party) methods to improve from where I am? Would like to hear some other points of view or possible solutions/suggestions to to my dilemma.