Cash Game Cash games with 20$/25$/50$/100$ buy-ins, with a 600 chip set possible? (4 Viewers)

[Rhodeman77]

I don’t know what kind of set you are looking at, custom, stock, real casino, but I would advocate to get enough chips now to cover potential growth of your game. The chips you buy now may not be readily available later or at all.

having 20 $100 chips adds a lot of bank to the set but doesn’t add much cost to the set as whole.

I have had sets that I ran out of chips and had to pull $100’s from another set to add more bank for the game. I tried to add more $100’s but I couldn’t find them very easily and the cost was more than when I first bought the set.

My ideal 800 chip set break down to cover the widest stakes of games would be:

25c—100
$1–200
$5–400
$25-80
$100–20

Total bank of $6225.

5 years ago or so my game was 25/50c and $1/1 $200 max and this would cover those games.

now it is $1/2 and $300 starting stacks with bigger rebuys and that bank would never be enough. So now I go with a full rack of $100’s as well to make sure I have enough bank.

You don’t know how your game will grow and change. If this is a one time purchase (especially customs) make sure you get enough bank to handle the future.

 

[JustinInMN]

I don’t know what kind of set you are looking at, custom, stock, real casino, but I would advocate to get enough chips now to cover potential growth of your game. The chips you buy now may not be readily available later or at all.

He did say CPC in the OP.

 

[Rhodeman77]

He did say CPC in the OP.

reading is fundamental lol. I skimmed over most of the post and went by the title mostly.

With it being CPC I would definitely order some higher denomination chips to future proof the set if it can be afforded.

 

[Ben8257]

Warning Ben book*** proceed with caution!!

I find it halarious how many times we have to debate between (100) or (120) quarters.... over and over week in and week out! Usually with CPC chips fracs are made between levels 1 - 3... by far the cheapest chip in the set!!

Optimal... optimal... optimal... lol we are talking about $40 - $50 for the most part for this barrel.

At the end of the day as I said in the other thread you do not want to promote limping by putting too many fracs in play, also it does become a pain with counting all in bets. But some games do not play that large and never going to play that way!

No 2 games are the same and this debate is going to continue forever. One person even said in this tread (I don't recall who) $600 per player with $50 buy ins.... I know one player and only one that would ever buy in 12 times into the same game! From my experience whatever the stakes are most people have had enough when they reach into their pockets for the 4th time in any given session. Therefore you should adjust your max buy in to reflect if you are planning for the game to play that big.

My opinion on the matter still for an 8 player game 100 quarters is plenty, a 10 player potential game I would go with 120. If you think your game will always be $50 buy in a breakdown of 100/200/200/100 is $403 per player and more than plenty to cover that game forever. I don't think you need a full rack of $20s so I would do a barrel of hundos for that freak once in a blue moon game that plays huge!

If you think it is possible the game could ever grow to a full 10 player table go for the 120/200/200/80 for a $2,830 bank for a $50 buy in.... it will not be enough if if ever grows $100 buy in game but all of these break downs are in a very similar realm, make your decision and go with it!

I do agree with customs future proof your set, order one time so you know all of your chips will match! If you think the game could grow to 10 players and $100 max buy ins and willing to go to an 800 chip set I would go with 120/200/300/140/40 a bank of $8530 would also cover your standard $200 buy in for a $.50/$1 game (3 rebuys for 10 players covered here) and you would never have to think about another chip!! Lol

Just an idiotic noobs opinion but there it is!

Your chippin buddy Ben

 

[JustinInMN]

Now the mission is to design some chips/inlays until the samples from CPC arrive and I can examine them! Hope to see you around (at the latest when I post the chip designs) Cheers

Just some broad advice on this point. My customs were over a year in the making for designs. You should not rush this. You also should not stop hosting. (Or resume hosting at a point where you find it acceptable to resume hosting.) Take this year and host games with the cheapest chips you can find (or chips you already have) so you can experiment with breakdowns and whatnot. (Poker-chips.eu has suited sluggos for 10 EUR a rack, getting 600-800 of those for a year seems a small price to figure breakdown out when your CPCs are going to cost 10-15x that much. I had an 8-stripe custom labeled set myself before I went for my sunfly customs. ) Also over the course of the year, you will get a good idea to see which games are attended and you can make your future-proofing decisions based on that. Keep working on design, and samples on the side, those things can be done on paper. But when you can host games, use that as the opportunity to test different quantities in real situations beyond the paper.

 

[swana]

Just some broad advice on this point. My customs were over a year in the making for designs. You should not rush this. You also should not stop hosting. (Or resume hosting at a point where you find it acceptable to resume hosting.) Take this year and host games with the cheapest chips you can find (or chips you already have) so you can experiment with breakdowns and whatnot. (Poker-chips.eu has suited sluggos for 10 EUR a rack, getting 600-800 of those for a year seems a small price to figure breakdown out when your CPCs are going to cost 10-15x that much. I had an 8-stripe custom labeled set myself before I went for my sunfly customs. ) Also over the course of the year, you will get a good idea to see which games are attended and you can make your future-proofing decisions based on that. Keep working on design, and samples on the side, those things can be done on paper. But when you can host games, use that as the opportunity to test different quantities in real situations beyond the paper.

You've gotten a lot of good advice and as you can tell there is no one simple answer to your question, it really is a matter of preference. So as suggested play with some cheaper chips to see what you like...

As my main game is a .25/.50 NLHE I can tell you that MY preference would be for no more than 200 $1s. They are a pain to count for all ins, don't encourage action and end up just sitting in stacks after a few ppl reload. My preference is also for even starting stacks with 12 quarters (but is certainly not required) which would mean 120 fracs if you will eventually be accommodating up to 10 players... however with less than 10 players our game never puts more than 12 fracs per player into play for the same reasons I outlined for keeping $1 to a 200 count maximum.

 

[JustinInMN]

As my main game is a .25/.50 NLHE I can tell you that MY preference would be for no more than 200 $1s. They are a pain to count for all ins, don't encourage action and end up just sitting in stacks after a few ppl reload.

Amazing I have the opposite preference . I like players having 2-3 barrels in front of them so I usually issue 40 singles at this stake and just a smattering of fives. (In my head, this is analogous to casino 1-2 where a 200 buy in would be issues in all fives.) The buy in matters too. My 0.50-0.50 game is a 60 max, so it's not as deep as a 100 max buy in where more fives may be helpful for counting all ins. When we play 0.50-1 I usually do 100 singles and 60*0.50 chips, but that actually felt tight on singles, so I am going to go for more next time I get to host.

But it does go to show it really is a personal taste thing.