My first re-label project NYNY $1s to Empress $1s (1 Viewer)

PR0N update!!! :D

Finished the re-label, or rather, overlabel of NYNY $1s. 240 of them. It was tedious but fruitful and in my opinion, the original label was sucky and this Empress label by @Gear is amazing! You rock Gear. Just a beautiful thing the way it can transcend a chip through a set , for me, it works very well and I will make great use of these...

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Thanks so much Grant! Wow!

I'll swing by Tony's game on Tuesday, or attend all together. Either way, I'll bring the labels.

Cool, bring some of the other relabelled chips too so we can do a side by side (maybe some of the other denoms too).

I think you'll find we should just relabel them all properly. ;)
 
For the record, the cut mark on the face of the chip on the right was not caused by me or from me. Previous attempt before I was asked for help.

Yeah... I was going to comment on that. That was probably me but it was my last attempt. Glad they're in the hands of a professional surgeon now.
 
Yeah... I was going to comment on that. That was probably me but it was my last attempt. Glad they're in the hands of a professional surgeon now.

Not so bad then. One of my early attempts I tried putting a chip in very hot water (trying to duplicate a youtube video showing what counterfeiters did), can you say warped chip! It snapped in two when I put even a little bit of pressure on it. 0/10, would not recommend trying.
 
A dumb newbie question here ........

How strong is the adhesive on Gear labels in terms of retention once applied ? From the opposite perspective, how easy is it to remove a Gear Overlabel without compromising the original inlay beneath ?
 
A dumb newbie question here ........

How strong is the adhesive on Gear labels in terms of retention once applied ? From the opposite perspective, how easy is it to remove a Gear Overlabel without compromising the original inlay beneath ?
Hardly find the question dumb,

I just finished applying 240 Gear labels to NYNY $1s.

I feel you have a bit of time to play and center the label as you need before pushing down. Like the label can be gently pressed on for say 10% of the surface area and removed entirely a couple times so you can get proper alignment. Anymore, and the glue can be seen stretching as it as already adhered itself to the inlay surface.

However, I did make a couple boo boos.

I use a sharp little hobby knife to gently get under the label and pull it up, and it is not too difficult to remove and I just use a damp rag to wipe the residue and re-apply a new label and good to go. I didn't think the inlay was compromised as a result. However, on a microscopic level, there may be some material that comes off the inlay with the overlabel glue when removed.
 
Hardly find the question dumb,

I just finished applying .....................................................en removed.

Cheers. Answered everything I wanted to know. Might be something for me to consider further down the pipeline
 
A dumb newbie question here ........

How strong is the adhesive on Gear labels in terms of retention once applied ? From the opposite perspective, how easy is it to remove a Gear Overlabel without compromising the original inlay beneath ?
I've had inlays come up/off when removing overlabels before. I expect it is chip dependent, it may also vary based on how long the label has been on (the glue hardens after time).

I suggest testing a few chips of you are concerned about damaging the inlay below. If you aren't concerned about damaging the original then just do a full inlay replacement!
 
I've had inlays come up/off when removing overlabels before. I expect it is chip dependent, it may also vary based on how long the label has been on (the glue hardens after time).

I suggest testing a few chips of you are concerned about damaging the inlay below. If you aren't concerned about damaging the original then just do a full inlay replacement!
Thank you for replying.

For the timebeing, I do not have any candidates for overlabels but merely wanted to get an idea if the opportunity ever presented itself.

The other thing I was interested to know is the retention strength of Gear labels and both you and Jeevanluck answered that conclusively for me. Much appreciated.
 
I'll just follow that up with saying that this weekend I put my Empress 5000's (overlabeled Casa 100's) into play for the first time. At the end of the game, I pointed out to people that they were relabeled chips. Nobody had a clue. Colors matched perfect, the feel and size is perfect, and if you put them on right, you really can't even tell that it's a label. None of them came even close to having any slippage or lifting at the edges while in actual play like I was worried about. Just looked and worked great!
 
Ready and waiting for the laminate labels you have.

View attachment 377094

So I wanted to come and update my thread. I met with my good friend and "chip executioner" @grantc54 . He murdered 2 of the 260 NYNY $1s I recently acquired. I proceeded to overlabel all of them, save for 2 that the previous owner had attempted murder on. (Pictured above)

Long story short, I was also given a few Gear labels that were of the textured and laminated type to go on to a murdered chip..

I must say, the results are undeniable and at some point, I see NO WAY I can avoid murdering all these NYNY to get the cooler laminated and textured label. Which is crazy, since I just applied all 240 overlabels:eek:. This hobby is maddening at times :jawdrop:

As sad as it is true, I may have to learn how to commit these crimes. I'm going to take a few lessons from @grantc54
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Wow, it’s that big a difference?? I may have to look into redoing the $5ks
 
Wow, it’s that big a difference?? I may have to look into redoing the $5ks
For me, yes. The overlabel is nice and all, but the chip looks a lot better with the smaller textured label on there. Especially when next to the Empress $5s and $25s, the label better lends itself to the rest of the set.

For now, gonna play the chips with overlabels. Learn about murder, get myself a kit, get some lessons, and take it a barrel at a time.
 
I had to come back here and post yet again!

Last night, without instruction or any real idea of what I was doing, I decided to murder 1 more of my NYNY $1s on my own.

The results weren't the greatest as I managed to put little Knicks in the inner ring of the inlay area of the chip. I figured it's 1 chip and what have I got to lose.

I'll be seeing my good friend and fellow chipper @grantc54 . I'll get tips and advice on how to achieve the flawless results on 2 chips he previously murdered for me. They turned out amazing.

Here are my results..
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This was my first side, it went terrible..
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Then my second side, a bit better..
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Then cleaned it all up with nail polish remover soaked sponge thingy my wife gave me, she was an accomplice if I am to be charged or otherwise condemned for murder.
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It's not the best ending. But I'll figure out how to do the inner edge properly before proceeding.
 
I had to come back here and post yet again!

Last night, without instruction or any real idea of what I was doing, I decided to murder 1 more of my NYNY $1s on my own.

The results weren't the greatest as I managed to put little Knicks in the inner ring of the inlay area of the chip. I figured it's 1 chip and what have I got to lose.

I'll be seeing my good friend and fellow chipper @grantc54 . I'll get tips and advice on how to achieve the flawless results on 2 chips he previously murdered for me. They turned out amazing.

Here are my results..
View attachment 382434View attachment 382435
This was my first side, it went terrible..
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Then my second side, a bit better..
View attachment 382437
Then cleaned it all up with nail polish remover soaked sponge thingy my wife gave me, she was an accomplice if I am to be charged or otherwise condemned for murder.
View attachment 382442View attachment 382444

It's not the best ending. But I'll figure out how to do the inner edge properly before proceeding.
Bring a few chips when you come by to get me and I'll give you a frer chip murdering lesson!!
 
I like to cut from the top but I leave a little space as to not nick/cut the circular inaly cutoff area. Once you have the plastic film off just a couple drops of non acetone nail polish and the labels pops right off. I just murdered 60 43mm AS $20's and they came out great. On a few of the chips maybe less then 8 you can feel the cut area under the label if you press down but no one would be able to tell mid game.
 
I like to cut from the top but I leave a little space as to not nick/cut the circular inaly cutoff area. Once you have the plastic film off just a couple drops of non acetone nail polish and the labels pops right off. I just murdered 60 43mm AS $20's and they came out great. On a few of the chips maybe less then 8 you can feel the cut area under the label if you press down but no one would be able to tell mid game.
The trick is not to press the label down too hard on the chip. The glue will hold it and harden in time making the cut very hard to find.
 
Been hesitant with a relabel project but this thread has really inspired some confidence in me. Great job, @Jeevansluck !
 
I recently bought a new set from a great friend and fellow Chipper. It's an Empress cash set that features NYNY $1s. The seller had only relabeled 1 barrel. I bought the set with 260 NYNY $1s , so that left a small matter of 240 chips needing a label. So I have started.

The coolest thing about relabeling to me, is the fact I can do edge spot alignment. I like this. I've got a barrel done. 11 more to go..View attachment 374550View attachment 374551
Doesn't that one look a little out of alignment?;)
 

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