Upholstering Round Rail (1 Viewer)

MoscowRadio

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I have a question for you guys concerning upholstering a rail with rounded ends for the dealer spot. I've never had the opportunity to make one of these types of tables, but I'm speaking with a client about a table and I'd like to be able to offer it to them. I just need to make sure I know exactly how the foam should be cut.

So, for a full oval ring you would use 3/4" of foam on the inside (provided you're using 3/4" plywood) and 1.5" of foam on the outside to cover the rail and the lip. My question is this: how do you cut the foam at the dealer spot when the wood thickness changes from 3/4" to 1.5"? I can't quite seem to wrap my head around how to cut the foam.

Below is a quick render of what I mean. Any help would be sincerely appreciated. Thanks!

248549
 
Apologies, but neither of those pics make sense to me. Maybe I’m just not understanding it correctly?
 
Apologies, but neither of those pics make sense to me. Maybe I’m just not understanding it correctly?

You know how when you upholster a table you use 3/4” for the inside of the rail (if you’re using 3/4” plywood) and 1.5” for the outside to cover the rail and the lip? I’m just trying to figure out how I should cut the foam for a rounded edge at the dealer spot.
 
You know how when you upholster a table you use 3/4” for the inside of the rail (if you’re using 3/4” plywood) and 1.5” for the outside to cover the rail and the lip? I’m just trying to figure out how I should cut the foam for a rounded edge at the dealer spot.

I still dont understand. I only use two types of foam on a table build... If I’m upholstering a rail, I use 1” HD foam for the rail and 1/4” volara (or similar) for the play surface. I’ve never used a different foam on the inside of the rail.. though I know some prefer to build using no foam on the inside edge, for a cleaner flush look.

I’m not the ultimate table builder (there’s people far more experienced), but I’ve never even heard of using 1.5” foam AND 3/4” foam on the same rail. I usually advocate for not having differences or breaks in the foam, as they often can be seen or felt under the rail cover (vinyl). This is why I use one solid piece of foam.
 
I think @MoscowRadio is talking about overhang? Foam as normal till you get to the dealer spot. At the dealer spot 3/4 inch on the inside, 3/4" on the in between, 1-1/2" on the outside. Round the corners. Then make your small dealer rail insert.

It's the same thickness foam, just different overhangs.
 
I still dont understand. I only use two types of foam on a table build... If I’m upholstering a rail, I use 1” HD foam for the rail and 1/4” volara (or similar) for the play surface. I’ve never used a different foam on the inside of the rail.. though I know some prefer to build using no foam on the inside edge, for a cleaner flush look.

I’m not the ultimate table builder (there’s people far more experienced), but I’ve never even heard of using 1.5” foam AND 3/4” foam on the same rail. I usually advocate for not having differences or breaks in the foam, as they often can be seen or felt under the rail cover (vinyl). This is why I use one solid piece of foam.

I’m talking about overhang to wrap around the rail. The foam thickness is 1”, but I’m talking about the amount used to wrap the rail.
 
I’m talking about overhang to wrap around the rail. The foam thickness is 1”, but I’m talking about the amount used to wrap the rail.

So you’re talking about the amount of 1” thick foam you overhang to get wrapped? I don’t overhang ANY on the outer edge. I wrap the foam and glue it. Then cut it flush with the outer lower lip. The inside edge, yes about 1/2-3/4” depending. No way to pre wrap/glue the inner foam edge effectively that I’ve found.

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248619
 
I think @MoscowRadio is talking about overhang? Foam as normal till you get to the dealer spot. At the dealer spot 3/4 inch on the inside, 3/4" on the in between, 1-1/2" on the outside. Round the corners. Then make your small dealer rail insert.

It's the same thickness foam, just different overhangs.

Are you saying that the second photo would be the way to do it?
 
Honestly, the images you posted aren't very clear. And I've never done a dealer insert. I would take some scrap and mock up the small dealer's "rail" and the rounded edge of the main rail, and see how it comes together. But yes, I usually enough foam to cover whatever the rail thickness is on both sides (in this case 3/4" inside and 1-1/2" outside. Your cut to cover the rounded edge needs to reflect that - make sure to leave enough foam to go past the lip 3/4" in the horizontal plane (if that makes sense)
 
Honestly, the images you posted aren't very clear. And I've never done a dealer insert. I would take some scrap and mock up the small dealer's "rail" and the rounded edge of the main rail, and see how it comes together. But yes, I usually enough foam to cover whatever the rail thickness is on both sides (in this case 3/4" inside and 1-1/2" outside. Your cut to cover the rounded edge needs to reflect that - make sure to leave enough foam to go past the lip 3/4" in the horizontal plane (if that makes sense)

Gotcha. Sorry if the photos were unclear. It’s supposed to look like you’re seeing the rail laying on top of the foam, like you’re about to upholster it. I guess it made sense to me, but that’s because that’s just how I saw it in my mind’s eye.
 
Essentially I’m curious how to cut the foam for this type of rail made by @T_Chan.

View attachment 248561
Based on those pics, it looks like his dealer spot rail is a separate piece, independently upholstered (which is how I've done mine in the past).

But if you really want to know how Tony does it, why aren't you asking @T_Chan directly?
 

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