"Third Friday Poker" Cards Mold Mockups (Quarter Pies Inside!) (1 Viewer)

TheOffalo

Full House
Tourney Director
Joined
Sep 26, 2021
Messages
4,263
Reaction score
7,430
Location
Los Angeles, CA
[EDIT: Would appreciate any instructions or hints on creating the edge stripes for my designs (figure the quarter pies would be easier) or in general if I use other edge spots in the future... Thanks!]

My primary home game is called Third Friday Poker for the obvious reason--we play on the 3rd Friday each month, at least that's the goal. We've been playing weekly on Zoom during the pandemic but finally starting to mix live games back in.

As I mentioned in another thread, I got the nickname "Kung Fu Panda" at some point, so I decided to use a panda in the art here, but not sure if that will be final. I tried thinking of other graphics that might go with the name of our home game, but just came up with boring calendar related images or TGI Friday's parodies which I wasn't happy with.

Since it's in Santa Monica, I was thinking of incorporating the beach or surfing or the Santa Monica Pier or something. I'm not an artist, so I have to depend on finding graphics that would work, and so far I haven't found ones I'm happy with. Any ideas or suggestions for inlay art related or unrelated to any of the above?

Been playing around with the quarter pie I saw on the New China Club and finally stumbled across a font that I liked. Decided to combine Cali and non-Cali colors on each chip. So without further ado, here's my initial version of the Third Friday Poker cash chipset...

The quarter and dollar chips have a regular inlay design. Colors on the quarter remind me of woods, where pandas roam free. Colors on the dollar, plus the font a little, made the chip come out more Dodgers-y than I intended but hey I'm in L.A., so that's not a bad thing!
TFP_Panda_25.png
TFP_Panda1.png


Shrunk down the center art to fit the shaped inlays starting with the $5 and $25. I'm nicknaming the nickel the "Gryffindor" and the $25 the "Joker".
TFP_Panda5.png
TFP_Panda25.png


Narrowed the "Third Friday Poker" to fit the narrower shaped inlays in the $100 and $500, and rotated the quarter pie. Not ecstatic about the colors on the $500 (purple and brown don't make great combinations) but had to distinguish from the purple on the $25 and made the brown more orange-y. Will need to tweak further (or most likely just leave it off, since we're not baller enough to need $500 chips in our game).
TFP_Panda100.png
TFP_Panda500.png


Anyway, constructive feedback wanted! Thanks!
 
Last edited:
Very nice!

The only thing that comes to mind is perhaps changing the 25¢ to a quarter pie as well. So you have consistency throughout.
Thanks, I definitely thought of that, but I see a lot of fracs be of a different design than the whole dollar chips and decided to do something similar. Plus I like the green four moons on the brown, like almost a top-down view of some bamboo trees. Also, I knew I'd have green on the $25 and potentially brown on the $500 (not that we'd mix quarters with those chips in the same game) and I wanted have the quarters be more easily distinguished from higher denoms.

But I'll play around with a quarter pie version of the 25¢! :)
 
I love the theme.

I just feel on some chips the design elements are too close to the shape's border.

To make the rolling edge, it's only about trigonometry and calculate the length of an arc based on an angle and circle radius.

For quarter pie, it's easy : (39mm x pi) / 2
 
My own preference for a set is one with edge progression or all denomination with the same edge

It also quite easy to get dirty stack for 1/4 pie edging example the $1 & $25 & $500 as the edge each take up 25% of the chip

I like the inlay thou look very causal
 
Last edited:
Makes sense, do what you like. Ironic that the quarter chip would be the only one not a quarter pie! :)

I thought of that! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:

I love the theme.

I just feel on some chips the design elements are too close to the shape's border.

To make the rolling edge, it's only about trigonometry and calculate the length of an arc based on an angle and circle radius.

For quarter pie, it's easy : (39mm x pi) / 2

I've seen on real chips where the inlay shapes get pretty close to the designs--seemed like the element placement/size were fixed. Rather than resizing the inlay elements for each denom custom, I just have a slightly larger version for the no-shape inlays, and a slightly smaller version for the shaped. Thought it might look more "realistic" to keep them relatively consistent and have some inlay shapes get closer than others.

Thanks, I just need to bust out the math and get it done. So the strip would be 122.52mm long, each quarter would be 30.63mm long. Looks like most of the stripes start at the top of the chip (12 o'clock) and go clockwise, so for the $1 for example, It'd go blue for 15.315mm, then white, blue, white for 30.63mm each, and then blue for 15.315mm again to meet at the top. Am I doing it right?

And the height of the stripe would be 3.3mm, standard poker chip thickness, I presume.

(How do people do it for all the other spots. I could see it being easier for some edge spots, like 8V would probably just be dividing the circumference by 16 and alternating colors, but the bear claws and all the other ones. I'll have to see if Inkscape can let me "trace" distances around a circle...)

My own preference for a set is one with edge progression or all denomination with the same edge

It also quite easy to get dirty stack for 1/4 pie edging example the $1 & $25 & $500 as the edge each take up 25% of the chip
I don’t think I’d have two chips with purple. Dirty stack problems will run rampant.

I'll probably make a separate mockup with more standard edge progressions, just liked the quarter pie aesthetics of the New China Club, which has non-quarter pies for its fracs too.

Since this is for a cash set, and we generally play between 25¢/50¢ and $1/$1, I'll probably just drop the $500 completely to avoid dirty stacks. Hopefully the $100's light/dark greys are different enough from the $1's white/blue.

Quarter should be half pie. Tilt some folks probably.
:wtf: Love it!
 
Last edited:
I thought of that! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:



I've seen on real chips where the inlay shapes get pretty close to the designs--seemed like the element placement/size were fixed. Rather than resizing the inlay elements for each denom custom, I just have a slightly larger version for the no-shape inlays, and a slightly smaller version for the shaped. Thought it might look more "realistic" to keep them relatively consistent and have some inlay shapes get closer than others.

Thanks, I just need to bust out the math and get it done. So the strip would be 122.52mm long, each quarter would be 30.63mm long. Looks like most of the stripes start at the top of the chip (12 o'clock) and go clockwise, so for the $1 for example, It'd go blue for 15.315mm, then white, blue, white for 30.63mm each, and then blue for 15.315mm again to meet at the top. Am I doing it right?

And the height of the stripe would be 3.3mm, standard poker chip thickness, I presume.

(How do people do it for all the other spots. I could see it being easier for some edge spots, like 8V would probably just be dividing the circumference by 16 and alternating colors, but the bear claws and all the other ones. I'll have to see if Inkscape can let me "trace" distances around a circle...)




I'll probably make a separate mockup with more standard edge progressions, just liked the quarter pie aesthetics of the New China Club, which has non-quarter pies for its fracs too.

Since this is for a cash set, and we generally play between 25¢/50¢ and $1/$1, I'll probably just drop the $500 completely to avoid dirty stacks. Hopefully the $100's light/dark greys are different enough from the $1's white/blue.


:wtf: Love it!

When I design shaped inlay, I always start with the shape leaving less space to the design elements and then keep it consistent for all other shapes.

I also think it's important to keep the absolute size of the design elements consistent over all denoms. It's just that I start with the tightest shape.

Your math for the quarter pie looks good.

For bear-glow, here's how I did :
1. Calculate the angle of the center spot.
2. Calculate the length of the arc of the center spot.
3. Calculate the length of the arc of center spot + space between the center spot and first spot.
4. Calculate the length of the arc of the center spot + space + first spot

Just calculate the differences to get :
- spot 1 only length
- space only length

Seems a little bit complicated. I've not my PC opened to illustrate it.

Inkspace does not have a function to measure arcs as far as I know.
 
Last edited:
3.5mm for cards mold based on a sample design file Tina provided.
Interesting, so they're thicker than "regular" chips? I have a sample stack of 8 New China Club cards mold chips, but I unfortunately don't have calipers. However, if I compare that stack against a stack of all the other kinds of chips that I have handy (B-mold CPCs, Spinetti's Dunes Commemoratives, DPS's Monaco and Outlaws, and cheap dice chips), the cards mold stack are noticeably (though not significantly) shorter than all the other stacks...
 
20211101_201658.jpg

20211101_201728.jpg


Top is 9 chips so 3.30mm avg

Maybe they just like the rolling edge art to be a little oversized?
 
Ah okay thanks @eightyWon, misread your last comment, so the chips themselves aren't that tall. Would you be willing/able to share that sample design file?
 
Totally. It's a room name I recognize from around here so hopefully they don't get upset but
It's again what Tina provided when I asked for specs a few days go.

Attached. Forum won't allow PDF attachments so you'll have to change the .txt extension back to .pdf
 

Attachments

  • 2021年10月15日第4单网面陶瓷39MM.txt
    212 KB · Views: 87
Took @Kid_Eastwood's advice and made all the inlay elements the same size, then decided to put inlays on the two lowest denoms and changed the dollar from a quarter pie to a tri-moon. Figured out (hopefully correctly) how to do edge stripes...


tfp_panda_mock_v2.png


Do you think a faint stroke around the inlay border on the $100 would be okay, to help with the contrast against the off-white/light grey chip color? I've seen chips with real shaped inlays look like there's a faint border because the inlay area seems slightly recessed. Wonder if it'd be too small to show up on the printing...

100withinlayborder.png
 
Last edited:
I would be afraid of using such a specific name. With my luck, the game would suddenly change to second Friday as soon as I ordered the chips. My first thought when I saw the design was Lazy Panda Poker.
 
I would be afraid of using such a specific name. With my luck, the game would suddenly change to second Friday as soon as I ordered the chips. My first thought when I saw the design was Lazy Panda Poker.
The game has been known as Third Friday Poker for over a decade even though with all our different schedules we probably play on the actual third Friday of the month only half the time. It's almost an in-joke at this point.

I threw around lazy panda, sleepy panda, even angry panda (ironically, keeping the sleeping panda graphic). In the end I decided to keep the Third Friday name since it's specific to our group.
 
Took @Kid_Eastwood's advice and made all the inlay elements the same size, then decided to put inlays on the two lowest denoms and changed the dollar from a quarter pie to a tri-moon. Figured out (hopefully correctly) how to do edge stripes...


View attachment 804741

Do you think a faint stroke around the inlay border on the $100 would be okay, to help with the contrast against the off-white/light grey chip color? I've seen chips with real shaped inlays look like there's a faint border because the inlay area seems slightly recessed. Wonder if it'd be too small to show up on the printing...

View attachment 804747

Thin lines can be tricky on ceramic chips. But black on white might be ok.

Pay attention that sometimes Tina makes thin lines thicker on purpose... Be ready to check that at prototyping phase...
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom