Table topper size for 36 inch table (1 Viewer)

iHeartBeaver

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Hi everyone,

I have a small dining table (36 inches) and I want to seat 6 for a poker night. I think my table might be small so I'm thinking of putting a bigger table topper on top of it that is 48 inches. Good idea? Bad idea? Is it going to swing forward if someone puts their elbows on the table?


This is one that I was looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027AJ5XY/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1

Let me know what you think!
 
The biggest risk is tipping, where if someone tries to get up from the table and tries to use the table as support, the other end may flip up. However, as long as your players are aware of that and don't do it, you should be fine. With a 48" topper, there's only 6" of overhang all around which isn't a lot. You should also look into getting a non-slip mat to put between your table and the topper. It will not only prevent the topper from sliding around, it will also protect your table from any potential scratches.
 
Another option is to make your dining table "bigger" by getting a 42"-48" diameter 10mm glass top to go on top of your existing dining table (with a few clear plastic protectors in between), and then put your topper on top of that.
 
The biggest risk is tipping, where if someone tries to get up from the table and tries to use the table as support, the other end may flip up.
That's the first thing I thought when looking at the ad. Is there any way to attach it to the base?
 
You can secure an oversize topper on a table by adding screw-in eye hooks to the underside of the topper on four sides and stretching bungee cords between the hooks under the table. Keeps every thing tight and secure, especially if you add spacer blocks to the underside to keep the topper perfectly centered (no lateral movement).

A custom topper with suited speedcloth and 1/4" foam using 1/4" MDF can be built to fit your table (or as oversize) for about the same cost as one of those cheap ones. You can even make a folding version using a Gorilla tape hinge.
 
You can secure an oversize topper on a table by adding screw-in eye hooks to the underside of the topper on four sides and stretching bungee cords between the hooks under the table. Keeps every thing tight and secure, especially if you add spacer blocks to the underside to keep the topper perfectly centered (no lateral movement).

A custom topper with suited speedcloth and 1/4" foam using 1/4" MDF can be built to fit your table (or as oversize) for about the same cost as one of those cheap ones. You can even make a folding version using a Gorilla tape hinge.
I was thinking of building one of these (bi-folding topper with a modular padded rail) to fit on top of a 6-foot Lifetime table from costco (the kind that both legs fold but also the table surface itself folds in half). I know some other people mentioned that when you use a folding topper that has an overhang, sometimes when people lean against the padded modular rail, the topper has a tendency to lift up in the middle where the sections of the topper meet. I know you have built many of these -- do the eye hooks and bungee cords prevent this issue and allow people to lean on the padded rail a bit?
 
I was thinking of building one of these (bi-folding topper with a modular padded rail) to fit on top of a 6-foot Lifetime table from costco (the kind that both legs fold but also the table surface itself folds in half). I know some other people mentioned that when you use a folding topper that has an overhang, sometimes when people lean against the padded modular rail, the topper has a tendency to lift up in the middle where the sections of the topper meet. I know you have built many of these -- do the eye hooks and bungee cords prevent this issue and allow people to lean on the padded rail a bit?
Yes, they help quite a bit, as does the bi-fold design (making the center section 50% of overall length with each end at 25%).

You can also design the rail sections to overlap the table underneath at the table's hinge points, making it very difficult to raise the surface at those places when downward pressure is applied to the ends. I've sometimes used swivel pieces to 'lock down' the rail at strategic locations (rail is placed in position, then swivel pieces underneath are rotated 90 degrees under the table to lock the piece down).
 
Yes, they help quite a bit, as does the bi-fold design (making the center section 50% of overall length with each end at 25%).

You can also design the rail sections to overlap the table underneath at the table's hinge points, making it very difficult to raise the surface at those places when downward pressure is applied to the ends. I've sometimes used swivel pieces to 'lock down' the rail at strategic locations (rail is placed in position, then swivel pieces underneath are rotated 90 degrees under the table to lock the piece down).
Sounds very interesting. Do you have a picture of this functionality?
 
I was thinking of building one of these (bi-folding topper with a modular padded rail) to fit on top of a 6-foot Lifetime table from costco (the kind that both legs fold but also the table surface itself folds in half). I know some other people mentioned that when you use a folding topper that has an overhang, sometimes when people lean against the padded modular rail, the topper has a tendency to lift up in the middle where the sections of the topper meet. I know you have built many of these -- do the eye hooks and bungee cords prevent this issue and allow people to lean on the padded rail a bit?
I want to do exactly this. I drew up plans pre-COVID and then stopped hosting games. I’ve had a few games now and thinking about doing a build this spring. Any progress and or pro tips to share @joshuagb ??
 
I want to do exactly this. I drew up plans pre-COVID and then stopped hosting games. I’ve had a few games now and thinking about doing a build this spring. Any progress and or pro tips to share @joshuagb ??

I was working on this last summer and got as far as getting the folding playing surface with the gorilla tape hinges made. It looks pretty good and could actually work on its own on top of the table in a pinch. The next step is building the padded modular rail, but I haven't made any cuts yet. I'm new to using a router for arc cuts. I've only used a jig saw, very carefully. I have the plunge router, I just haven't used it yet. Fingers crossed I do it this weekend.
 
Let's just hijack this one. Here's the original thread that was the inspiration, and that one was I think adapted from an earlier plan created by @BGinGA. Here's a few photos I snapped tonight to show the progress.
 

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Looks good. I just ordered a whole bunch of materials from YAT.com.

What are your dimensions? My plans called for 40x88.

The rails seem to be the hard part. Good luck!

What if you did no rails? My notes seem to suggest just putting rubber around the edges, I think like the stuff you use to baby proof the coffee table.
 
Looks good. I just ordered a whole bunch of materials from YAT.com.

What are your dimensions? My plans called for 40x88.

The rails seem to be the hard part. Good luck!

What if you did no rails? My notes seem to suggest just putting rubber around the edges, I think like the stuff you use to baby proof the coffee table.
If I don’t get it done before the next game, it will be no rails!

I measured out the playing surface at 83.75 long and 42 wide. I was probably going for 84 long but lost a little with the cuts. The rail will sit on top of that, probably 3 inches sitting on the surface, 2 hanging off like that original thread showed.
 

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