Table Build Starting...well, asking too many questions first (1 Viewer)

[TheDirtMerchant]

Planning to use 3/4 4x8 Birch Plywood (which is currently $81/ at my local big orange store.
However, they also have Sande Plywood at $71/, it is noted as not true 3/4". It's .709" instead of .75".
Googs tells me that Sande is marine grade, which is nice...and not really much else.

Has anyone used this to build their table? See any issues with using it?

 

[Darson]

Sandeplywood is a Home Depot Exclusive. Every piece meets the highest grading standard for strength and appearance. Sandeply is a hardwood plywood designed for interior applications.

Careful where you google! Definitely not marine grade. I've not seen this before at big orange - I think it may be a recent addition given the stupid prices of hardwood plywood.

 

[Thomacetti]

Planning to use 3/4 4x8 Birch Plywood (which is currently $81/ at my local big orange store.
However, they also have Sande Plywood at $71/, it is noted as not true 3/4". It's .709" instead of .75".
Googs tells me that Sande is marine grade, which is nice...and not really much else.

Has anyone used this to build their table? See any issues with using it?

The difference in price on the end total does not stack up to a well build table.
Don’t cut corners and you will have a table that will last a looooooooot of games

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

What is this stuff then? Just a cheaper lower grade plywood?
Fine...$81/ it is. Ugh.

 

[Darson]

Take a sec to see if there is a real lumber store near you. The big box stuff can be quite random in quality. If you do go to big orange, feel free to leaf through their stock to get a choice piece or two.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

What is this stuff then? Just a cheaper lower grade plywood?
Fine...$81/ it is. Ugh.

Aaaannd it's $89/
That's what I get for waiting

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Anyone have a nice, simple, easy to follow and exhaustive step by step plan to cut the plywood
for a raised rail with LED lights with a diffusor on a regular oval poker table?

https://buildyourownpokertables.com/wood-work-to-build-a-lighted-poker-table/

I have the plans from buildyourownpokertable.com, but...they don't properly allow for a LED light and diffusor (that I'm ordering from Chanman).
And...I know for sure I'm not smart enough to adjust on the fly and know what I'm doing. I need instruction!
I REALLY don't want to waste a $90 piece of plywood (+time +$ for getting it home) because I misjudged and made incorrect cuts
or cut the wrong piece(s).

 

[Machine]

What are other shapes that tables are made of? Do you have 9/10 players or will it typically be 7 / 8?

What is the optimal table height, where will you get the legs?

Ovals are easy to cut, do you plan to use a jig?

 

[BGinGA]

Planning to use 3/4 4x8 Birch Plywood (which is currently $81/ at my local big orange store.
However, they also have Sande Plywood at $71/, it is noted as not true 3/4". It's .709" instead of .75".
Googs tells me that Sande is marine grade, which is nice...and not really much else.

Has anyone used this to build their table? See any issues with using it?

I used 3/4" birch plywood for my first table build. It weighs a frickin' ton.

All tables I've built since have used 11/16" sandply. Just as stable as an end-product, but lighter, easier to work with, and less expensive.

You can get by with 9/16" sandply for the rail, saving a bit more weight and money. No issues here with warping or flatness.

Just avoid OSB, MDF, or 1/2" plywood.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

I used 3/4" birch plywood for my first table build. It weighs a frickin' ton.

All tables I've built since have used 11/16" sandply. Just as stable as an end-product, but lighter, easier to work with, and less expensive.

You can get by with 9/16" sandply for the rail, saving a bit more weight and money. No issues here with warping or flatness.

Just avoid OSB, MDF, or 1/2" plywood.

Are you saying 23/32 sanded pine plywood (which is the only sanded plywood I can find in the local big box stores)
Or the Sande stuff I mentioned in my initial post?

 

[BGinGA]

I haven't purchased poker table wood in a while, but iirc it was G-P sandply (23/32" sounds right) from The Home Depot.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

3 pieces of Maple 3/4" 4x8 Plywood purchased.
$83/
I have a plunge router and plan to use a DIY Jig for the ends and a jig saw or circular for the long straights.
I bought a pnematic stapler
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-Pneumatic-18-Gauge-3-8-in-Crown-Stapler-TS056/204460975,
1/2" staples

Closed cell surface foam, rail foam and rail *suede* from Chanman was delivered a few months ago.

I have no idea when the weather will cooperate and that good weather will coincide with my free time to do the cuts.
My guess March or April at best.
But, I think I have most everything I need.
Once I get the table cut up and together and have my measurements set, I'll put in the order for some Chanman Custom Felt and get some 3M adhesive.

Also...legs. Really haven't thought about that yet, but when I get to the point of ordering felt, that will become important.
At the moment I'm thinking maybe some black gasline piping and large flanges at the top/bottom and painting them?
Or maybe just the Gorilla Gaming Legs. Not really thinking about it quite yet.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

My...how time flies. Its only been 8 months. Sheesh.
Wood still sitting in the garage.

Hmmm the rail foam and playing surface foam are still rolled up...is that bad? Do I need to let them flatten out? Will they flatten out?

OK, more questions.
I like the idea of under-table attached cupholders with the built in channel and carriage bolts: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/round-table-with-adjustable-swing-out-cup-holders.93934/
^^^ That seems to have the channel for the bolts routered into the base/playing surface...which is all 1 layer. But...with a with a raised rail, the base is on the bottom, with no breaks/openings and the playing surface/rail base...are completely covered by the base (see cross section of table...smaller image on right side) How/where am i putting the channel in for the bolts on a table like this?

EDIT: I can't paste the image here...

Post 2 in this thread:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...s-for-a-1st-timer-attempting-to-build.107980/

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

Does anyone know if the Jasper Circle Jig(s) will fit on the Harbor Freight Hercules Routers?!

 

[T_Chan]

Hmmm the rail foam and playing surface foam are still rolled up...is that bad? Do I need to let them flatten out? Will they flatten out?

I would open up the foams and let them flatten out to breathe. The rail foam might take a few days to rebound. The playing surface foam too, however it depends on what you bought. If it's closed cell, and it has any wrinkles in it, they won't come out.

Regarding the cup holder channel, you may want to add a second layer of plywood to the underside of your table for the T-track. If you cut that track into the base sheet and that's your only layer supporting the rail, it could break if you don't leave enough meat at the top.

 

[TheDirtMerchant]

I would open up the foams and let them flatten out to breathe. The rail foam might take a few days to rebound. The playing surface foam too, however it depends on what you bought. If it's closed cell, and it has any wrinkles in it, they won't come out.

Regarding the cup holder channel, you may want to add a second layer of plywood to the underside of your table for the T-track. If you cut that track into the base sheet and that's your only layer supporting the rail, it could break if you don't leave enough meat at the top.

Thankfully, open cell foam.

Another layer of plywood = weight + cost. This is under consideration or cupholder side tables. Hmmm

 

[Thorn]

No need for another sheet of plywood. The groove is routed into the underside of the top rail piece. I'll add some better pics to my thread later today.

 

[Thorn]

So I need to work on reading comprehension. Didn't realize you were talking about a raised-rail build. My approach is for a standard rail. I've updated my original thread with a diagram to help clarify. Including it here in case it helps give inspiration on how you might modify it for a raised-rail.

I should know better than to comment in a table build thread after @T_Chan -- incredible craftsmanship on your tables, sir.