Table build question…? (1 Viewer)

Trihonda

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OK, I think I know what I am going to do, but I wanted to toss out this nugget in case I’m overlooking something..

We are building a game table for our new cabin up north. we are retrofitting an existing 48” wide solid table to install a play surface and rail. I usually like doing a lip to hide the edge of the play surface, but that requires me finding lumber (plywood) wider than 48”…. Ugh. Lumber is crazy right now.

So I’m considering just putting a 48” rail on top of the table…. But I know I will like the look of a wider rail that can hide the edge.

ps. black whisper vinyl, black SSC, 1/4 volora foam play surface. 65lb 1” HD rail foam.

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CraigT78

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I used 5x5 Baltic Birch when I built my round tables. It was $50/sheet delivered from a craft lumbar store.
 

Trihonda

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I used 5x5 Baltic Birch when I built my round tables. It was $50/sheet delivered from a craft lumbar store.
I called around and couldn’t find anything. I’m tempted to buy two sheets and mate a couple sections together, just staggering the joints of the various layers for stability.
 

Al Azouri

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I called around and couldn’t find anything. I’m tempted to buy two sheets and mate a couple sections together, just staggering the joints of the various layers for stability.
If you do that, make sure you double up the main rail, not the lip. You can use 3/8 plywood glues together with staggered seams. You’d be surprised how strong that can be, but it’s precision work. The lip wouldn’t need to be layered and could be done in sections. I’ve done that before when trying to maximize a sheet of ply.

I haven’t layed it out, but see if you can get away with a single sheet of 3/8 for the main rail.
 

DoubleEagle

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I called around and couldn’t find anything. I’m tempted to buy two sheets and mate a couple sections together, just staggering the joints of the various layers for stability.
I join my sheets with biscuits.
 

RedRider52

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I called around and couldn’t find anything. I’m tempted to buy two sheets and mate a couple sections together, just staggering the joints of the various layers for stability.
Biscuit joiner works well for joining 2 sheets. The biscuits and glue make a very strong joint as long as the sheets are not warped.
 

RedRider52

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Found mine cheap off of FB Marketplace and they are crazy easy to use
 

kmccormick100

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Just a thought, but have you considered trimming down the base table top to like 46” diameter to allow for a lip overhang?
 

Darson

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I would say that you don't even need to join the pieces with biscuits etc as you have the existing table top to aid with alignment. Just cut yourself a 5ft rail in two pieces and then screw them to the table - they join should be flush as the table top will keep everything level. You'll have plenty from a 4x8 sheet to make this and the rail lip.

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And with a flush trim bit on the router, the rail lip can be trimmed up perfectly, even though it's made from lots of bits of offcut.

Not quite the same but you can see my lip was made of janky off-cuts but trimmed up nice:

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Trihonda

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Just a thought, but have you considered trimming down the base table top to like 46” diameter to allow for a lip overhang?

yes, but it’s only like 5/8” avail to remove, and that’s certainly not enough for a feasible “lip” for the rail
 
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I used 5x5 Baltic Birch

I called around and couldn’t find anything

I used this for my tables as well. I just built one for my buddy this spring. I special ordered it at Home Depot, it was just under $50. It only took a couple days to get it. If you're still looking I can try to track down my receipt so you can tell them exactly what you need. I'll find out what the going rate is tomorrow.
 

Trihonda

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I used this for my tables as well. I just built one for my buddy this spring. I special ordered it at Home Depot, it was just under $50. It only took a couple days to get it. If you're still looking I can try to track down my receipt so you can tell them exactly what you need. I'll find out what the going rate is tomorrow.

Ooooh, that'd be great. I never thought about special ordering a larger piece from HD... I mean, this solves a lot of problems for me. I can easily make lower trim pieces out of scraps to create the lower lip. If you have a solid piece for the top, it'll add structure and stability, rather than melding two pieces together. I was really stuck on this.

Edit

I am currently on the phone with the HD "pro-desk" (for an solid 20 minutes now....), while the "pro" has asked me 20+ times if I wanted 5'x5' or if a 4x8 sheet would work and they could cut it down... or if I wanted 5' or 5", or if I wanted 5x ply... For a while he was trying to sell me 5"x 5" peel and ply stickers. Not only do I not need stickers, but they're only 5 inches across...

Then when someone else comes around to lend an opinion, the "pro" has to relay the entire conversation to them, of course getting it completely wrong, having to ask me the above questions ALL over again...

I've been crystal clear I'm building a ROUND top that requires 60"x60" or 5'x5'.

Edit #2

I was placed on hold for yet another 10 minutes, the pro comes back and says he's called around and can't find the product I want, but he checked with the various "lumber experts" who insist they can cut down a full sheet or ply to get my 5'x5' sheet I need. OMFG! I'm trying to explain to the pro that the 4x8 sheet of ply will have to be magical if they can cut it down to 5x5.. The pro just isn't understanding that a full sheet of ply is 4x8 (after I've explained it to him several times)... Total elapsed call time was 30 minutes. And tbh, the frustration was offset by the entertainment value.

OMG, Mrs Honda is listening in and is losing her freaking mind... LOL

I'm usually very compassionate and understanding, but I'm having a hard time understanding how this person is employed, much less being a Pro at the pro desk... or even surviving trip from his car to the front door... (parking lots are scary).

It doesn't sound like they are able to find the product without the sku...
 
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Oh my, what a disaster! Hopefully this will help...
Vender: Bluelinx
sku:1000-016-598
mdl# RUB3455IBBBB
Description: 18mm 5x5 Russian Birch BB/BB Cabinet Grade
Current Price: $60.67 per sheet

When I bought mine in March 2021 it was $39.16, but I got a deal and only paid $32.11. When I built my first two tables back in 2015 and 2016 it was in the high $40's
 

Trihonda

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Ugh…. I have an issue.. I’ve gotten further into this build now, but I fear my volara play surface foam is toast? I’ve used this stuff a lot, but I’ve never seen a crease like this that has lasted so long. It actually shipped a while back from YAT and was in a rolll with the speed cloth and rail foam. It was rolled up as a group, so I wasn’t in a huge rush to unpack it all. I figured that “rolled” (not folded) was a safe way to,store it.. this is sat for a few weeks before I unrolled it all. The volara had all these crazy creases in the foam.. WTF. It’s sat for around a week and it hasn’t smoothed out. Sucks, because I need the volara foam now….

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oh well, on with the update…

I ordered the birch, and after a while it came in. my son and I spent some time making the circle cuts and cutting/gluing the rail lip. I’ve done some sanding, but now it’s time for upholstery. The total diameter is 51” from edge to edge. I’m using a 5” rail width. The vinyl and speed cloth will both be black.

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CraigT78

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Ugh…. I have an issue.. I’ve gotten further into this build now, but I fear my volara play surface foam is toast? I’ve used this stuff a lot, but I’ve never seen a crease like this that has lasted so long. It actually shipped a while back from YAT and was in a rolll with the speed cloth and rail foam. It was rolled up as a group, so I wasn’t in a huge rush to unpack it all. I figured that “rolled” (not folded) was a safe way to,store it.. this is sat for a few weeks before I unrolled it all. The volara had all these crazy creases in the foam.. WTF. It’s sat for around a week and it hasn’t smoothed out. Sucks, because I need the volara foam now….

View attachment 815376

oh well, on with the update…

I ordered the birch, and after a while it came in. my son and I spent some time making the circle cuts and cutting/gluing the rail lip. I’ve done some sanding, but now it’s time for upholstery. The total diameter is 51” from edge to edge. I’m using a 5” rail width. The vinyl and speed cloth will both be black.

View attachment 815372View attachment 815373View attachment 815374View attachment 815375
Yes, toast on the valora.
 

Trihonda

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I have the table set up in its final resting position, but need to upholster it. I also need to round over the edges (which I always do), and install t-nuts and bolts to secure to rail.

one issue is I have is the vinyl is 54” wide, yet the diameter of the rail is 51“. Plus 1.5 edge height means I’d need all 54 inches just to reach the lower lip, and This doesn’t factor in that I’ll need to wrap around the lower lip…. It’ll stretch ..some.. but probably not enough.

normally I’d stretch the outer edges first, then cut and wrap the inside edge. I am thinking I might need to cut a small 12” long slit in the center of the vinyl as I’m stretching it, to allow it give enough to stretch…? Anyone ever done this?

here’s the location and table. Vinyl is black, SSC is black. :)

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Trihonda

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For rail stretching. Air stapler is your friend.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/58-round-build-slow-burn.76846/post-1573640
Loving the thread by the way

ya, I’ve got a pneumatic crown stapler I’ve used for other builds.

But the lower lip is 1.5” tall and 1.25” wide.. If I have to stretch it all the way around, that’s like 2.5” of stretch I need to create.. I’ve got vinyl puller pliers too, but I can’t imagine good results without cutting a small relief cut coinciding with the narrowest part of the vinyl piece I have…. Just never done such a cut…. Not sure if people think it’ll cause bad results?
 
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Relief cuts worked for me. 60" vinyl. 58" diameter table plus 2x(1.5" of ply thickness, 1" foam thickness, ~1.5" back for stapling each side)
Toughest part I found was doing an even stretch when wrapping the inside of the rail.
 

T_Chan

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Whisper vinyl will stretch. I wrap 56" wide rails with a 5" lip and 1" wrap around underneath.
 

DoubleEagle

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I have the table set up in its final resting position, but need to upholster it. I also need to round over the edges (which I always do), and install t-nuts and bolts to secure to rail.

one issue is I have is the vinyl is 54” wide, yet the diameter of the rail is 51“. Plus 1.5 edge height means I’d need all 54 inches just to reach the lower lip, and This doesn’t factor in that I’ll need to wrap around the lower lip…. It’ll stretch ..some.. but probably not enough.

normally I’d stretch the outer edges first, then cut and wrap the inside edge. I am thinking I might need to cut a small 12” long slit in the center of the vinyl as I’m stretching it, to allow it give enough to stretch…? Anyone ever done this?

here’s the location and table. Vinyl is black, SSC is black. :)

View attachment 819158View attachment 819159View attachment 819160
@Quads has experience with this.
 
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