Starting on my New Year's resolution

arch3r

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#1
My plan this year is to design and produce a custom tourney set. The inlay design is still up in the air, but I started playing with the chip design tool to come up with colors and spot progression. This is the first set, after dozens of attempts, that I kinda like. T25, T100, T500, T1000, T5000, and T25000. Not sure if I would do a full six denoms, but did them all for completeness. I did shaped inlays in this design but not sure if it will make the final cut, but it looks cool. Any and all comments or suggestions, both positive and negative, are welcome.

Option 1. All dual spots.
tourneySet_v1.png


Option 2. Swap between dual spots and single spots
tourneySet_v2.png


Trying to keep all chips to 3 colors, base and two spot colors ( except the grey (T100) in option 2 ).

I think for the most part the set looks good, but the blue (T5000) chip kinda feels out of place when I look at the entire set together. Especially in option 2, the grey and blue chips sorta look too similar. I also mocked up an orange chip to replace the blue.

a533ba2d-8183-4cf9-a949-957f9e4837ec.png


I'm just afraid that the orange and pink next to each other are too close?

Anyway, have at it and let me know what y'all think. Thanks.
 
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#2
Hell of a resolution!

I like what you've got going on here. MD-50, shaped inlay, AND 1/8" spots? Bold move. (y) :thumbsup: You're definitely not pulling any punches here. I love 1/8" spots but I do like the vary up the progression if you're going for high end. I like the option 2 better, myself.

You've got some good color combos here. I see you've been studying!
 

BSteck

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#4
One vote for Option 1. I really like that subtle, cohesive spot progression - especially for a tourney set. Very nice.

The two chips that didn't work for me are the yellow and the blue. The other chips have great modern color schemes with day-glow accents.... but those yellow and blue chips use more muted (drab'ish - sorry) colors. Maybe DG tiger instead of the red spot in the yellow chip? And for the blue chip, maybe switch the base from retro blue to light blue then DG peacock instead of the gray spot or maybe DG peach instead of the butterscotch?

And just a little tweak... looks like you have the pink chip in option 1 using the 1/8 spots instead of the 1/6 spots of the rest of the set.
 

arch3r

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#5
Ok I ditched the blue in favor of the orange and tweeked the colors a bit.
tourneySet_v3.png


or

tourneySet_v4.png



Still not happy with the orange or pink spot colors. And I'm thinking too much yellow in the set from the purple chip to the pink?
 
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#7
Ok I ditched the blue in favor of the orange and tweeked the colors a bit. View attachment 146218

or

View attachment 146219


Still not happy with the orange or pink spot colors. And I'm thinking too much yellow in the set from the purple chip to the pink?
I like the look of the top set a bit more than the bottom set. How about exchanging the spot colours between your orange and pink? Or maybe go to a brighter (colder) yellow on your base colour?
 

arch3r

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#8
OK. Spent some ( way too much ) time with the design tool an this is the current iteration, taking your suggestions and comments into account.

tourneySet_v5.png


I decided to only continue with option 1, using all the 1/6 spots. I just rotate the spots to give the appearance of changes from chips 1 to 2, 3 to 4 and 5 to 6. Went with a slightly different spot color pattern on the pink chip and I think it works well.

Also added the orange, completely different spot pattern, in case I decide I need a bounty chip. Plus I needed to see what how a base color orange chip might look with the set if I go with the suggestion to replace the grey chip with orange instead but then I was struggling with what spot colors I would use on that chip. If I go that way, I may have to reorder all the chips to make them work well.
 
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#9
The actual orange is way darker than in the designer. I would go with a dayglo tiger. If you don't have a color sample set I highly recommend it. I had to change a lot of my colors once I got my sample set.
 

Trihonda

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#11
Color sample on the way so I'm sure things will change a bit once I get it in hand.
Beat me to it, yes, absolutely need a color sample set. The colors in real life book vastly different than they do on screen. On my tournament so, I made a ton of changes since the chip colors in real life were so different. On my recently ordered cash set design, the chips I marked up don’t look nearly as nice as the ones that I have in real life.
 

arch3r

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#12
Beat me to it, yes, absolutely need a color sample set. The colors in real life book vastly different than they do on screen. On my tournament so, I made a ton of changes since the chip colors in real life were so different. On my recently ordered cash set design, the chips I marked up don’t look nearly as nice as the ones that I have in real life.
Like I said I have a color sample set coming. But for right now, I do have about 100 CPC chips from various member custom sets and stock CPC sets in hand so I have some idea on how the colors look in real life and how they will work together. But the full sample set will help.
 
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#13
I am assuming you fully plan to have a dark inlay, hence the black blank rather than a white. If however, this is not decided yet, I suggest you mock it up with a light inlay too. This can drastically change the overall look of the chip.
 

arch3r

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#15
I am assuming you fully plan to have a dark inlay, hence the black blank rather than a white. If however, this is not decided yet, I suggest you mock it up with a light inlay too. This can drastically change the overall look of the chip.
The inlay has yet to be designed. I just tend to think tourney chips have either black or color matching inlays and cash chips have white, so I mocked them up with black. But yes, once I get going on the inlay, I'll try every combo I can. This is going to be a big investment so I'm going to take my time and make sure I totally love every aspect of every chip before I pull the trigger. But I appreciate you guys checking my progress and encouraging me not to make a common mistake or just go something stupid. :D
 

arch3r

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#16
I like where you are going. That charcoal chip is just screaming for a DG tiger spot though.. :)
That chip is giving me problems. I go from charcoal to black to making it orange and forgetting about the orange bounty, although that option veers maybe too much from the 'standard colors'. But yes, the Dayglo Tiger would look great on either the charcoal or black. But since I'm trying ( and maybe its dumb ) to not reuse colors, I would have to change the Dayglo Tiger on the blue to Dayglo Orange then, and I am really liking how that blue looks now. I'll have to keep playing around with it and see how it looks.

Damn, designing this set is such a time sink. o_O:p:D
 

arch3r

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#17
Latest version based on suggestions and my constant tweeking.

tourneySet_v6.png


Changed the spot colors on the green, purple and yellow. Swapped the Dayglo Tiger and Dayglo Orange spots on the blue and charcoal. And dropped ( for now ) the orange bounty chip.
 

krafticus

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#18
Latest version based on suggestions and my constant tweeking.

View attachment 146580

Changed the spot colors on the green, purple and yellow. Swapped the Dayglo Tiger and Dayglo Orange spots on the blue and charcoal. And dropped ( for now ) the orange bounty chip.
I think you are getting there. I know you mentioned that you didn't want to use the same color twice, but I see that you have the same color pattern on repeating chips. So, you have DG peach, and then DG tiger. Then, Saturn, Canary, Arc Yellow.

IMHO, the green chip and the yellow chips can be the most difficult to mock. It seems that the colors have a hard time "meshing" on those bases. Dark bases, bright colors generally work great. Blue is an easy chip too. I cannot access the chip tool at the office, otherwise I would take a stab too.

Mark
 

arch3r

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#19
IMHO, the green chip and the yellow chips can be the most difficult to mock. It seems that the colors have a hard time "meshing" on those bases. Dark bases, bright colors generally work great. Blue is an easy chip too. I cannot access the chip tool at the office, otherwise I would take a stab too.
I'd be interested what you come up with.
 

arch3r

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#21
rushed through it, didn't give it enough thought (home with the kids trying to do too many things at once)

View attachment 146618

Interesting. Some of the selections you chose were the same I did pre-first cut. As I have continued, I have set some guidelines that I have tried to follow to help scale down some of the color options.

1. All base colors must be a weighted color
2. All spot colors must be an unweighted color
3. No color can be used more than once.
4. No spot should be in the same (immediate) color family as the base

Not sure if these are good guidelines to follow (too limiting??) or if I will ultimately totally adhere to them, but they have at least helped with the way too many combinations. I think in my last posted iteration, I used one weighted color (white) as a spot so I'm already breaking one of them. No wonder I'm always in trouble, I can't follow the rules, even when I set them for myself.

I think you are getting there. I know you mentioned that you didn't want to use the same color twice, but I see that you have the same color pattern on repeating chips. So, you have DG peach, and then DG tiger. Then, Saturn, Canary, Arc Yellow.
Yea, I see that but the DG colors are bright and pop and IMO make great spots so that is unavoidable, and in my case, kinda what I am going for. But maybe I've been doing this for too long? Think I may have to take a day or two off and then give it a fresh look. When I have done that in the past, I usually wind up hating over half the chips I designed. :confused:

Anyway, here is yet another cut following all the guidelines above...

tourneySet_v7.png


Thanks for the continuing feedback.
 
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#22
My plan this year is to design and produce a custom tourney set.
.
.
.
Anyway, have at it and let me know what y'all think. Thanks.
The Blue with DGArYellow and RRed looks really awesome. Plus, I like the simplicity of the Charcoal with the bright, contrasting spots.
 
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#24
Interesting. Some of the selections you chose were the same I did pre-first cut. As I have continued, I have set some guidelines that I have tried to follow to help scale down some of the color options.

1. All base colors must be a weighted color
2. All spot colors must be an unweighted color
3. No color can be used more than once.
4. No spot should be in the same (immediate) color family as the base

Not sure if these are good guidelines to follow (too limiting??) or if I will ultimately totally adhere to them, but they have at least helped with the way too many combinations. I think in my last posted iteration, I used one weighted color (white) as a spot so I'm already breaking one of them. No wonder I'm always in trouble, I can't follow the rules, even when I set them for myself.
.
Well, the first rule really is "there are no rules", but I understand how most would want to adhere to some sort of guidelines. Different sets of guidelines tend to clash when designing, though. I think I am/will be going through the same thoughts and troubles you are when I commit to my own design. But here is where I would modify your "rules" to make it more flexible:

1. and 2. If a base colour is weighted, the edgespots should tend toward the unweighted. If the base colour is unweighted, then the edgespots should tend toward the weighted.
3. and 4. No colour should be repeated in a chip series that is likely to be used in great quantities in simultaneous play.

For me, the point of 1. and 2. are to make sure that we give some darker and brighter base colour options that can be played side-by-side. Not all base colours should be dark/dull, or the splashed pot would also look dull. There should be a reasonable balance between alternating light and dark base colours and adhering to any standard denomination progression you would want to use. Edgespots look pretty, but also provide contrast, as will the felt/surface that you play on.

The point of 3. and 4. is to allow some repetition of colours within reason. Your 1's and 100's will probably not see much time together on the table, so you are more free to repeat colours here between base and edgespot. Same with your 5's and 500's, 25's and 1000's, etcetera. This is another reason why it's harder to design with more denominations, since many more chips will see play together.

Another point about 4. by itself is that you can have a very lovely chip with different shades of the same colour in it. For example, half-pies and quarter-pies look great with dark-light or dark-light-bright shades, and then you won't necessarily require edgespots for these because the contrast is already built in to the base.

Keep at it, I'm sure you will come to an iteration that you like above all. I just hope your final design doesn't exceed the capacity of your wallet to make it real!
 
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#25
Also, remember, you can make your inlay design work for you as a central "spot". You can vary the base inlay colour between denominations if you want, as well as the shape. If your chips have high contrast between them then you can tie it all together with a more neutral common design.
 

arch3r

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#26
So I took some time off designing this set. If not, I would have driven myself crazy constantly tweeking them. And to my surprise, I still like them. So I decided to try my hand at photoshop and add in some inlays. Currently, I leaning towards an old-school style so I just tossed in random inlays from old chips to see how they would look. Ignore the denominations, my photoshop skills are beginner level at best.

Initial thoughts are that the Circus Circus inlay colors could be tweeked to match the colors of the chip? Anyway, thought?

tourneySet_v8.png


I also dropped one of the chips because I don't think I need a 6-chip tourney set. 25/100/500/1000/5000 should cover it just dandy. If I do a 6th chip, it'll be a bounty chip.
 

arch3r

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#30
Tweaked some colors after playing with my color sample set. It really makes a difference seeing the chips and colors in person. Things that don't look great on screen work look awesome with the samples.


6b445846-b9a3-447a-8fe6-cad6e03103a1.png


Case in point, I think the 100 as charcoal looks better on screen but the black works better in person. And the canary 1000 looks blown out with the bright spots, but no when you put them together with samples in hand, looks great

IMG_20180206_213225.jpg
.

I know everyone says get a color sample set and I kinda got why. But now I am a total believer. Get a color sample set people. Well worth the investment. You will not be disappointed.


Still working on the inlays. I want an colorful old school look and feel so I'm using the Circus Circus as a holder, but its really growing on me. Almost thinking turning this set into a tribute set? Once I engage a graphics artist I'm sure it'll change. But for now it helps see how the chips may look.

Anyway - comments, suggestions?
 
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