Standard chip denomination (1 Viewer)

jclee706

High Hand
Joined
Sep 18, 2022
Messages
70
Reaction score
71
Location
Atlanta, GA
Working to build a 500 PC set. Just something for 5 or 6 to play comfortably. How many of each denom chips do I need? I'm thinking

100 -1s, 100 -5s, 50 -10s, 100- 25s, 50-100s, 50 -500s, 50-1000s

What do you all think?
 
That's a very inefficient breakdown. Dump the 10s and the 50s. They just add clutter without any real benefit. You probably won't need the 1000's.

Are you playing a 1/2 cash game? What will be a typical buy-in, and how many rebuys or add-ons are typical?

Something like this should work:
$1 x 100
$5 x 200
$25 x 150
$100 x 50

That's a bank of nearly $10,000.
 
First, define your game.

If cash, what are the blinds? How much money do you think will be in the table on the biggest night?

If tournament, what are your starting stacks? How many rebuys and top ups are you expecting? Do you have enough extra chips for colour up? Do you need to consider expansion to a 2nd table in the future?
 
We discuss this topic about 4 times a week ;) and I have an in-depth post with links to other conversations that provide information on chip counts, denoms, and so many more topics, you can find the link in my signature.

While I put the post together, so many people have contributed to it, its a great starting point!

Here is my suggested break down, but I look through the lens of a PLO game:

Frac - 60
1 - 200
5 - 200
20 - 40 (60 if you don't plan to use 100s)
100 - 20

I run a .25/.50 PLO game and this break down would also work for a NLH game. Start with blinds, multiply by 300 add max players and you have a ballpark for the size of the bank you need, then you can calculate chip needs and starting stacks.


Welcome!
Click Here
(Mobile landscape)
|
|
\/​
 
Last edited:
We discuss this topic about 4 times a week ;) and I have an in-depth post with links to other conversations that provide information on chip counts, denoms, and so many more topics, you can find the link in my signature.

While I put the post together, so many people have contributed to it, its a great starting point!

Here is my suggested break down, but I look through the lens of a PLO game:

Frac - 60
1 - 200
5 - 200
20 - 40 (60 if you don't plan to use 100s)
100 - 20

I run a .25/.50 PLO game and this break down would also work for a NLH game. Start with blinds, multiply by 300 add max players and you have a ballpark for the size of the bank you need, then you can calculate chip needs and starting stacks.


Welcome!
Click Here
(Mobile landscape)
|
|
\/​

I'd suggest ordering $0.25 cent chips in multiples of 4 so suggest 80 or 120 for a 10 player set up with the odd spare for loss.
 
hat do you all think?
1663775386426.jpeg
 
I'll add some vocabulary to what DeusEx said.

You need a "change chip" which is your small blind denomination. You need a "work horse" chip which is probably your big blind or a size up from a big blind. E.g a $5 chip in a 1/2 cash game. You need to calculate what your "bank" needs to be. For that you need to define how many players, how many tables, and how many re-buys are permitted. For re-buys, not everyone will re-buy so assign a probability of re-buy (60% probability?) if you want to spend a little less money on your chip set. There is a huge amount of posts on this topic so poke around.

All of the above gets more complicated for a tournament. You'll have to figure out your "blind schedule" and your "color-ups."

And ditch the 10s and 50s. There is a good concept in using 4 times and 5 times increments in your denominations. The 10s and 50s introduce 2 times increments which is not terribly useful.
 
That's a very inefficient breakdown. Dump the 10s and the 50s. They just add clutter without any real benefit. You probably won't need the 1000's.

Are you playing a 1/2 cash game? What will be a typical buy-in, and how many rebuys or add-ons are typical?

Something like this should work:
$1 x 100
$5 x 200
$25 x 150
$100 x 50

That's a bank of nearly $10,000.
Not entirely sure on the last two questions. I guess no cash game and no rebuys. I'm just getting together with 5 of my friends( 6 total) every month and play until the last man standing. 600 chips is what I'm looking to buy.
 
First, define your game.

If cash, what are the blinds? How much money do you think will be in the table on the biggest night?

If tournament, what are your starting stacks? How many rebuys and top ups are you expecting? Do you have enough extra chips for colour up? Do you need to consider expansion to a 2nd table in the future?
Not entirely sure on the questions. I guess no cash game and no rebuys. I'm just getting together with 5 of my friends( 6 total) every month and play until the last man standing. 600 chips is what I'm looking to buy.
 
Not entirely sure on the last two questions. I guess no cash game and no rebuys. I'm just getting together with 5 of my friends( 6 total) every month and play until the last man standing. 600 chips is what I'm looking to buy.
In a cash game, the chips represent actual cash value. For example, a $25 chip represents 25 actual dollars. Generally, in a cash game, players can buy in for varying amounts between a minimum and maximum, and rebuy or add on as they like. Showing up late or leaving early isn’t *generally a problem. For example, a game might be 25¢/50¢ blinds, minimum buy-in $20, maximum $100.

In a tournament, everyone gets the same amount of no cash value chips, for a specified amount of money. For example, $50 buy-in, and everyone gets 10,000 in chips. Rebuys might be allowed for the first hour or two. Blinds start at 25/50, and increase every 20 minutes till someone has all the chips. With 9 players, top 3 finishers would get paid.

These are just generalities, of course.
 
Not entirely sure on the last two questions. I guess no cash game and no rebuys. I'm just getting together with 5 of my friends( 6 total) every month and play until the last man standing. 600 chips is what I'm looking to buy.

Ok, so your playing a freeze-out tournament with 6 people. You won't need 600 chips. You can get away with much less, which helps stretch your budget farther.

For example, let's say each starting stack is 10000 value (or T10k). Each person can start with 12x T25, 12x T100, 5x T500, and 6x T1000 chips. So you will need 72x T25, 72x T100, 30x T500 and 36x T1000 to start. You can use extra 18x T500 to colour up all the T25 and T100.

Final total, with rounding to multiples of 25 per denom:
75x T25
75x T100
50x T500
50x T1000
Total 250 chips, less than half of what you estimated.
 
Don’t get fracs. They are useless to anyone except for chippers who are fascinated with micro stakes cash games and just use them as an excuse to buy more chips, not that there is anything wrong with that.
 
Ok, so your playing a freeze-out tournament with 6 people. You won't need 600 chips. You can get away with much less, which helps stretch your budget farther.

For example, let's say each starting stack is 10000 value (or T10k). Each person can start with 12x T25, 12x T100, 5x T500, and 6x T1000 chips. So you will need 72x T25, 72x T100, 30x T500 and 36x T1000 to start. You can use extra 18x T500 to colour up all the T25 and T100.

Final total, with rounding to multiples of 25 per denom:
75x T25
75x T100
50x T500
50x T1000
Total 250 chips, less than half of what you estimated.
Thanks a lot for this! This helps a lot. I'm thinking if I want to add more people, I could just increase the chip count accordingly per player. Again, not playing for money or anything, just the chips and good laughs.
 
Thanks a lot for this! This helps a lot. I'm thinking if I want to add more people, I could just increase the chip count accordingly per player. Again, not playing for money or anything, just the chips and good laughs.

We generally like to classify "1 full table" as 10 persons. So a T25 base T10k structure above would be

125x T25
125x T100
75x T500
75x T1000
Using the extra T500 and T1000 to do all the colour ups. Still only 400 chips and will still be adequate for 10-person freeze out with a few extra chips to cover losses and damage.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom