Shahnuli’s raised rail table build (1 Viewer)

shahnuli

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Thought I’d share with you all my build process and progress.
This forum has been a fantastic resource for me and I hope this post helps someone else out down the line.

Overview: I have almost zero woodworking skills nor did I have many of the tools. So my build‘s checklist and costs will include that for people who may be in the same boat as me.

Table features list:
1. 10 person oval table. Room space is not issue so I went with a larger sizing: 96 x 44. We usually always have 9-10 people at our time game and I wanted everyone to have plenty of space. if people have to pass cards/chips to people at either ends of the table...no biggie. Initially was thinking of 96x48 but then Tony advised against this and it made sense to go with a shorter width.
2. Wide rail. Thanks to Tony’s kind advice I went with 6 in rails (instead of my original plan of 4.5 in). I love Tony’s table proportions from an aesthetic standpoint and I bet it’s as comfortable as it looks. Note: my first option was to go with a table from Tony. But for the table specs I wanted the price of his awesome tables was beyond what the wife would green light at the moment (but still will probably end up going that route down the road).
3. Custom cloth from Tony. I actually picked a design from one of the existing Chanman builds I saw on the forum. Looking forward to seeing it in person!
4. Raised rail. Love the look of raised rails. To me, it transforms a poker table from purely a functional entity to a decorative furniture piece (important for wife approval lol!).
5. Pedestal legs. Scoured craigslist and found a fantastic option for $30. Will need to refinish. Will post pics tomorrow.
6. No cup holders. My wife and poker buddies are notorious for spilling drinks. So I want minimize the risk to the table. Will probably get some drinks carts instead.
7. Rail type: whisper vinyl. Was contemplating suede but then decided to keep it simple for cleanup etc.

I’ll upload progress pics tomorrow (woodworking is done!) as well as my shopping list and sourcing info.

_
Shah
 
I like all of your decisions. I would be interested in hearing about the argument against 48 inch width. I think wider and shorter plays better than longer and narrower generally, but each case is different. Sounds like it's going to be a great table!
 
Ok. Here's the shopping list:

From: Chanman
- custom table topper was ~$250 shipped.

From: BuildYourOwnPokerTable.com
- 70lb 1" Rail - Premium Poker Table Rail Foam - $69.36
- 1/4" Playing Surface - Premium Poker Table Playing Surface Foam - $21.99
Note: I did look at YAT for these things but I decided to give my dollars to this site since their info was also helpful during my research.
Total - $91.35

From Amazon
- Black and Decker Jig Saw - $33.67
- Black and Decker Random Orbital Sander: $29
- Canvass Pliers - $11.96
- Forstener Bit - $8.97
- Ryobi Router (Not necessary for this project from what I've read, but I thought I'd round off some of the edges and thought I may want this for the oval arcs etc. - but i did end up just using the Jig for the big arcs in the end so i may end up returning this) - $86.73
Total: $170.33

From: Home Depot (big list)
Sawhorse (2 pk - cheap plastic ones)$24.97
RIDGID 9 GAL WET/DRY VAC - (this was optional, but since its winter and I needed to build in my basement, definitely worth it)$59.97
2x2 Scrap Plywood (for attaching to pedestal legs)$10.76
Numerous length wood screws~$12
3M Respirator $5.47
Sandpaper (220 and 150)$9
HUSKY 14 IN 1 PAINTER'S TOOL7.47
BOSCH 4x T-SHANK JIG SAW BLADE spares$8.97
Brush for Staining7.97
Espresso Stain and Poly 13.68
3M HIGH STRENGTH 90 SPRAY 17.6 OZ
12.97
3x 3/4" 4X8 MAPLE PLYWOOD (I may have spent a little more than what I could have but figured why not...i think i saw some cheaper plywood for $40/sheet)
$167.94

Total$353.37

From Craigslist
- Pedestal Legs - $30

Total So Far: $895.05

I'll upload some pics later today...

-
Shah
 
I like all of your decisions. I would be interested in hearing about the argument against 48 inch width. I think wider and shorter plays better than longer and narrower generally, but each case is different. Sounds like it's going to be a great table!
Good question. I don't think there'll be a right/wrong answer on this one. The general guideline from this forum does seem to be that 44" is probably better. And then I tried to apply that to my situation. I think I was going the 96" length anyway since I am already used to playing on our dining table (which is 98"). So length was not an issue in my mind. People would need to pass chips to each other if sitting at the ends even with a 84" length, so I went for the 'more space per person' route. For the width: my dining table is 48" and it definitely didn't need to be that wide during play, I observed that there was a lot of 'blank space' width wise if that makes sense. And with the way my basement area is where the table is going to go (more long than wide) I figured having the table be narrower would leave more space for drink carts etc.
 
Pic of the pedestal legs that I found on Craigslist. The plan is to learn how to remove the current stain and restain it to a darker color.
326850B8-5975-43FA-A15F-171024BA64DD.jpeg
 
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Thinking out load:
Some things I'm trying to figure out/make a decision on (any input from you experts out there would be very welcome):
- Going with T Nuts/bolts - definitely will go this direction, trying to find a good diagram/plan in order to not make a mistake
- Stupid question: for the rail foam overhang I was going to go with leaving 3" on the outside and 2" on the inside. Does this sound right?
- How exactly to attach the pedestal legs. I'll concentrate on this more when I get closer to that point.
 
Good luck with the build! Looking forward to seeing your progress!!
 
Good question. I don't think there'll be a right/wrong answer on this one. The general guideline from this forum does seem to be that 44" is probably better. And then I tried to apply that to my situation. I think I was going the 96" length anyway since I am already used to playing on our dining table (which is 98"). So length was not an issue in my mind. People would need to pass chips to each other if sitting at the ends even with a 84" length, so I went for the 'more space per person' route. For the width: my dining table is 48" and it definitely didn't need to be that wide during play, I observed that there was a lot of 'blank space' width wise if that makes sense. And with the way my basement area is where the table is going to go (more long than wide) I figured having the table be narrower would leave more space for drink carts etc.
I am curious what lead to the decision on that specific width? it is basically 2 inches less per side. That is clearly enough to ease game play and cut out dead space, but does it cut out all of it? Would, say, 40 be too tight? I'm curious.

Secondly, while I appreciate all the time and effort of documenting and the generosity of your openly sharing here, I would love it if you included pics of things you are referring to and perhaps compare / contrast pics for you decisions, such as a photo of a 48" width and a 44" width when you have the table width cut. so it is easy to see the direct comparison to what you are comparing in your mind.
 
pic of circular jig I made for the jig saw (amalgamation of some tutorials from YouTube):
02E4117A-F705-4326-8541-6FEAA977CD3D.jpeg

Definitely made things easier and more accurate for all the damned semi circles I had to draw :)
fyi: this is the first time for me using a jig, router and everything else. I did make a mistake on my first cut. I’ll get a pic of that in a bit.
 
I am curious what lead to the decision on that specific width? it is basically 2 inches less per side. That is clearly enough to ease game play and cut out dead space, but does it cut out all of it? Would, say, 40 be too tight? I'm curious.

Secondly, while I appreciate all the time and effort of documenting and the generosity of your openly sharing here, I would love it if you included pics of things you are referring to and perhaps compare / contrast pics for you decisions, such as a photo of a 48" width and a 44" width when you have the table width cut. so it is easy to see the direct comparison to what you are comparing in your mind.
Since this is my first table, no idea if 40 would be too tight :D
This is a 'make it and see how it turns out' build (with some research of course!).

In a similar vain, I only have the wood pieces I have so cant compare/contrast for you unfortunately.

-
Shah
 
Very nice. Looks like the jig helped you make some very smooth cuts using a jigsaw!
Thanks! Yeah the jigsaw cuts weren't too bad at all (even the straight sections). Not too shabby for under 34 bucks!. Of course some sanding is definitely going to be needed to even out the layers outside/inside since my OCD is screaming inside me to just get a CNC machine to do the cutting perfectly...but I am trying to resist and just get it 'close enough' and move on :).

-
Shah
 
- How exactly to attach the pedestal legs. I'll concentrate on this more when I get closer to that point.
On the top layer of your base (right under the playing surface) drill out extra large holes for the studs already in the pedestals. The extra large holes will provide enough room for washer, lock washer, and nut. Cut the studs to length (might have to clean up the threads after cutting).
 
On the top layer of your base (right under the playing surface) drill out extra large holes for the studs already in the pedestals. The extra large holes will provide enough room for washer, lock washer, and nut. Cut the studs to length (might have to clean up the threads after cutting).
I think I’m going this route thx! I may modify it slightly by using flush mounted T nuts instead of regular nuts since I have a bunch laying around.
 
I think I’m going this route thx! I may modify it slightly by using flush mounted T nuts instead of regular nuts since I have a bunch laying around.
If you are using existing studs, t nuts may be hard, can't rotate table on all 6...

Definitely +1 for t nuts on rail and playing surface tho
 
Pic of the pedestal legs that I found on Craigslist. The plan is to learn how to remove the current stain and restain it to a darker color.
View attachment 400016
Awesome find....I bought 10" pedestals with 2 claw feet per leg and a stretcher (sanded but unstained) and it ran me $460. sometimes the key is finding rando $hit online...tools especially. Nailers, saw horses etc...going to be awesome to watch this come together. I've been doing the same...but will likely post all at once.
 
How exactly to attach the pedestal legs. I'll concentrate on this more when I get closer to that point.

Here's how I do it. I make a round disk of plywood about 24" in diameter. After attaching the pedestal bolts to the round disk, you will need to use a spade bit or a forstner bit to make a recess for the pedestal bolts and nuts in the underside of your table sub-base. Cut the excess bolt length flush with the top of the nut.

Note that I got lazy after I moved this table and didn't screw all of the furniture bolts back in. Probably had too many anyway. I would suggest you alter the spacing on one of the furniture bolt holes so you will be able to easily line up the holes when attaching the pedestal.

Note that I use threaded inserts to attach the pedestal assembly to the sub-base, not t-bolts.



IMG_5930.jpg
IMG_5932.jpg


Threaded Inserts.jpg
 
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Here's how I do it. I make a round disk of plywood about 24" in diameter. After attaching the pedestal bolts to the round disk, you will need to use a spade bit or a forstner bit to make a recess for the pedestal bolts and nuts in the underside of your table sub-base. Cut the excess bolt length flush with the top of the nut.

Note that I got lazy after I moved this table and didn't screw all of the furniture bolts back in. Probably had too many anyway. I would suggest you alter the spacing on one of the furniture bolt holes so you will be able to easily line up the holes when attaching the pedestal.

Note that I use threaded inserts to attach the pedestal assembly to the sub-base, not t-bolts.



View attachment 400637View attachment 400638

View attachment 400652
Fantastic! Thank you. Looks great and straightforward. Pics are specially helpful.
 
Awesome find....I bought 10" pedestals with 2 claw feet per leg and a stretcher (sanded but unstained) and it ran me $460. sometimes the key is finding rando $hit online...tools especially. Nailers, saw horses etc...going to be awesome to watch this come together. I've been doing the same...but will likely post all at once.
Yeah. I saw the prices online for the pedestals and they were in the 450-500 range. Tools I wasn’t sure about secondhand. Since I don’t know much about them I wasn’t confident that I’d be able to tell the good ones from the almost broken ones :)
 
If you are using existing studs, t nuts may be hard, can't rotate table on all 6...

Definitely +1 for t nuts on rail and playing surface tho
Good point re existing studs. I did a practice run yesterday on leftover wood and now I see what you mean.
 
Here's how I do it. I make a round disk of plywood about 24" in diameter. After attaching the pedestal bolts to the round disk, you will need to use a spade bit or a forstner bit to make a recess for the pedestal bolts and nuts in the underside of your table sub-base. Cut the excess bolt length flush with the top of the nut.

Note that I got lazy after I moved this table and didn't screw all of the furniture bolts back in. Probably had too many anyway. I would suggest you alter the spacing on one of the furniture bolt holes so you will be able to easily line up the holes when attaching the pedestal.

Note that I use threaded inserts to attach the pedestal assembly to the sub-base, not t-bolts.



View attachment 400637View attachment 400638

View attachment 400652
Only modification I’ll probably be able to make do with square 24” plywood. Less cutting to do. Yaaay.
 
Only modification I’ll probably be able to make do with square 24” plywood. Less cutting to do. Yaaay.
I just think the circle looks nicer. I have had a surprising number of comments from people I built tables for that they appreciate the detail put into the underside.
 
+1 for threaded inserts as well, t nuts have there place but as far as attaching the table to the base, threaded inserts are far superior. But work with what your comfortable with. There are easy tricks to install the inserts, just a simple bolt with a nut is the way to go when pressing/threading them in to the wood. Just YouTube it, tons of easy ways to install them.
 
+1 for threaded inserts as well, t nuts have there place but as far as attaching the table to the base, threaded inserts are far superior. But work with what your comfortable with. There are easy tricks to install the inserts, just a simple bolt with a nut is the way to go when pressing/threading them in to the wood. Just YouTube it, tons of easy ways to install them.
:tup:
 
Used Volara plus another softer layer for the table top foam. The volara by itself was too hard and the other foam from byotp just was too soft. Both together worked like a charm. Tested it out by stacking 40 paulsons and there was minimum wobble. At 20x chip stacks there was zero wobble.
B2F42BFB-3A03-4608-A69D-22E470BC16B0.jpeg

E925DFC1-EAA3-469C-B8AA-3E62008848C4.jpeg
 

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