Long time poker player, first time poker table builder. So far I have tried twice and failed. Table needs to be portable, prefer no more than 60 -75 lbs. 10-person seating with cup holders (racetrack is optional). First table 1/2" ply for the base, 3/4" birch for the racetrack and playing surface, 3/4" birch for rail ring and 1/2" ply for the rail top. OMG it weighed in at over 120 lbs! Second table I cut the vinyl too far in the curves and the foam showed (DAMN!) I gave both tables away (yeah, I know). So my search for the perfect combination of light weight, sturdy and good looking continues. After reviewing numerous posts on here I am seeing some interesting ideas so I am looking forward to learning more! Your thoughts, experiences and wisdom on how to complete my quest is appreciated........
Search for nirvana in a poker table...... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Jonny Tre
- Start date
The weight you listed for the size of table is borderline unrealistic for a good quality poker table. I build basic poker tables which are pretty bare bones which weigh 80lbs for 8 player size and 90lbs for 10 player size. They're not unmanagable though, I carry them around on my own on a regular basis as I run a rental business as well where I carry 8-10 poker tables in and out of venues, including up and down stairs. I add handles to the underside of the table making them easier to maneuver and carry around.
I'm no power lifter or anything either, I'm 5'7" and 150lbs.
I'm no power lifter or anything either, I'm 5'7" and 150lbs.
Of pure muscle....
Build a 84" x 40" table-top with gravity rail -- use 3/4" plywood for the base and lower rail section, and cheaper 5/8" sandply for the upper rail section.
A 6" rail looks good with those table dimensions, and half-on/half-off puts overall rail dimensions 90" x 46" (23-3/4" linear space per player with 10 players) with a manageable 78" x 34" center playing area.
Covered with foam and surface, the table-top will come in under 55 lbs. or so, with the easily-removable rail at around 15-20 lbs. Add four 6" 2x4 braces underneath to keep it centered on a 5- or 6-foot folding banquet table that has wide-stance legs (around $50).
Stable, lightweight, portable, relatively inexpensive, and easy to construct. Go with jumbo slide-under cup-holders, and ditch the racetrack idea.
slisk250
Straight Flush
Yeah, right. I remember you refusing help from both Kurt and I when you brought tables 2 years ago. Tony throws those 80 pound tables around like frisbees.
To get down to the <75lb range then using thinner plywood would be the way to do it. There's some sacrifice in structural integrity but it'll do the job.
It's the Kung Fu Grip of Death technique that he has perfected when carrying large semi-oval objects.
Edit: Oh yeah, to the OP, Hello and welcome!
^^ X2 ^^
The top portion of my main permanent table pops off for when we have games outside on the back deck. It's composed of a single sheet of 3/4" plywood for the base sheet, and two 3/4" thick pieces for the rail (it has a 3/4" raised rail). It weighs 90lbs:
It has two spring loaded flip out handles (like the ones used on big speaker equipment) on the underside that make it really easy to move around:
A very good rule of thumb is a 4x8 sheet of plywood weighs 25 lbs per 1/4" of thickness (so a 3/4" 4x8 sheet weighs ~75lbs). Assuming a 90"x42" table, the base sheet weighs ~55lbs and 5" wide rail (single sheet) would be ~18lbs, so the whole table would be about 75lbs. The table works great, it's obviously not as sturdy as a table with oak pedestals, but it's light years better than a cheapo eBay table. Moving to 1/2" for the base sheet would get you to ~50lbs total but I wouldn't recommend it - not only would it flex more, but you'll have "bumping" issues with a table that light - i.e. if someone bumps it with their elbow or knee getting up or reaching for a beer, the whole table will shake and send chip stacks tumbling. It's amazing how much an extra 20-30 pounds helps to make the table feel more solid.
If if were me, I'd go with the single 3/4" base sheet and a single 3/4" (or maybe 1/2") rail piece. Then add two braces under the table with the main sheet cutoffs to help stiffen the table, kind of like this (this table had different style legs, you'll need to put the braces on the outside of the folding legs):
Good sturdy folding legs (i.e. not the ones from home depot or harbor freight) will also go a long way in making the table stable. Good ones will run you $80-$120. I usually get mine from MetalKraft, and others have used the nice ones from Rockler with success (should be a thread somewhere around here with more info).
Great info, thanks guys. I love the fold out handles. I'm going to get wood today.
moose
4 of a Kind
That's the best looking bottom of a poker table I've ever seen.
OK, so I came back with a sheet of 3/4" poplar for the base and a sheet of 1/2" sandy for the rail. I was already thinking about the support pieces and Chan's photo confirmed that for me (thanks). No legs as this will be a topper. I'm putting together with table starting in 5 bars. A couple of my dealers are small girls (seriously, one weighs 90 lbs. soaking wet) and they need to be able to pack the table away in storage in the bar at the end of the night. That's why I'm searching for the perfect balance between looks, function, weight and stability. As always, new ideas and suggestions are encouraged!
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