Round Table Top Build (1 Viewer)

bsdunbar1

4 of a Kind
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I haven't seen many complete table build threads for a while so i figured I would throw this up here. This table build is not much different than a typical round table, with the exception of the trim ring around the bottom. None the less, I’ll share the build for anyone interested.

The objective of the build was to build a round table to fit over the top of an existing glass octagon dining table.

The first step was to make a trim ring to fit the bottom of the poker table so when it is placed on the dining table it sits securely in place, centered, supported, etc. The dimensions of the octagon table would determine the final size of the round poker table. This would make this table approx. 62”. A bit larger than the ideal round table but the functionality to fit over the existing dining table was the #1 priority.

The trim ring was made and fitted to make sure it would fit the exact dimensions of the octagon. I made it large enough that I could keep the inside octagon shape and also cut a round outer shape. Once the inside dimensions were correct it was time to cut out the ring.

1.jpg


My Lewin router jig was not large enough to cut a 62” diameter circle so I had to make a jig. It's not sexy, but it did its job in guiding a round circle.

2.jpg


The outer diameter was cut and I had my trim ring for the bottom of the poker table.

3.jpg



The playing surface was going to have to be pieced together since it was 62” diameter. I had a bunch of cut out pieces from other oval tables so it was time to put them to good use. If I would have started with 2 fresh sheets I could have made this in 2 pieces, but using prior scraps resulted in doweling 4 pieces. Once doweled together it would all be the same anyways.

4.jpg 6.jpg 7.jpg 8.jpg 9f.jpg


For the rail instead of piecing sheets of plywood together I made an octagon with 12" wide pieces to cut out my 6” rail. I doweled the pieces together and used my same highly advanced circle jig to cut the inside and outside diameters of the rail.

9a.jpg 9b.jpg 9d.jpg 9e.jpg


With the rail & playing surface cut it is time to install the t-nuts which will hold it all together. (No pics, but had to install the trim ring while lining this all up because the bolts/t-nuts will bolt together the trim ring, playing surface & rail)

9f.jpg


T-nuts installed lining up all three pieces. The trim ring is not installed in this pic, once I drilled the holes for the bolts I left the trim ring out of the way until I needed it. I didn't want to take the chance of damaging the joints moving it around unnecessarily.

9g.jpg


T-nuts installed, now it is time to cut the cup holder holes. Cup holder holes are made easy with the jasper jig.

9h.jpg 9i.jpg


Time to glue on the cup holder rings.

9j.jpg


That pretty much concluded the construction part of the build. I prefer the woodwork part of the build but the upholstery is pretty much a necessary evil I guess.
T-Chan printed us a cloth. The center graphic is not my favorite but I really do like the outer diameter design with the suits, the stripes, and it all fading to black around the outside.

9k.jpg


I put black felt on the underside of the playing surface since this will be sitting directly on the glass dining table top. The jumbo cup holders won’t stick through the bottom of the table so I left the felt cover the holes. Once the bottom trim ring is attached it should have a nice clean look with no cup holder holes exposed.

9l.jpg


Playing surface foam & cloth installed

9m.jpg 9n.jpg


A test fit/sneak peek with the rail. Those stripes and the fade turned out really cool.

9o.jpg


Back to the trim ring –
It was painted black and edge banded with decorative nails installed.
The very first time I tried installing decorative nails I knew I would never be able to get them exact enough so at that time I made a little jig to get the spacing exact and to keep the nail centered on the ¾" edge.

9p.jpg


This is a different table, but a close up of my jig.

9q.jpg


Because of the diameter of the table I also had to piece together the rail foam. Many good suggestions/ideas were given on how to try and get this done in one piece but @ 62" I couldn't find a way to make it work. I think it will be irrelevant anyways because I put the 2 seams down the middle of the cup holders. 1) Minimal exposure, 2) Your arm will never be resting on the seam to feel anything any different.

9r.jpg



Rail completed. Foam seam looks and feels fine, it is out of the way with the cup holders. I may have been more concerned with this seam if I didn't have the cup holders to "camouflage" it, but none the less it turned out fine.

9s.jpg


Rail flipped over and the playing surface lined up and installed

9t.jpg


Bottom trim ring installed with connector bolts

9u.jpg

And the finished product

20180228_234917843_iOS.jpg 20180228_234908710_iOS.jpg
 

Attachments

  • 9.jpg
    9.jpg
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This is beautiful. I have a 8 to 10 person oval but since we always do self delts games I've wanted round since I can remember. I've noticed a lot of Builders don't add the extra wood ring for their cup holders do you notice a big difference with yours?
 
This is beautiful. I have a 8 to 10 person oval but since we always do self delts games I've wanted round since I can remember. I've noticed a lot of Builders don't add the extra wood ring for their cup holders do you notice a big difference with yours?

Are you referring to the trim ring on the bottom? If so, it serves no purpose other than to orientate the table on top of the octagon, and the nail heads add a bit of style.
 
Out of curiosity, how much does it weigh?

Not sure of actual weight. Its not too bad to move by yourself, it is more awkward than anything without being able to put any sort of handle on the bottom.
It is actually not as heavy as I thought it would be.
 
The chip holder rings in picture 16. I think it's like an almost identical layout (without a center graphic. What does something like that run from @T_Chan?
 
This is beautiful. I have a 8 to 10 person oval but since we always do self delts games I've wanted round since I can remember. I've noticed a lot of Builders don't add the extra wood ring for their cup holders do you notice a big difference with yours?

The rings on the rail to support the cup holders - Got it. I have never put cup holders in the rail without the rings so I don't know how it would be without them. They do firmly support the cup holder so there is no crush or movement.
 
I haven't seen many complete table build threads for a while so i figured I would throw this up here. This table build is not much different than a typical round table, with the exception of the trim ring around the bottom. None the less, I’ll share the build for anyone interested.

The objective of the build was to build a round table to fit over the top of an existing glass octagon dining table.

The first step was to make a trim ring to fit the bottom of the poker table so when it is placed on the dining table it sits securely in place, centered, supported, etc. The dimensions of the octagon table would determine the final size of the round poker table. This would make this table approx. 62”. A bit larger than the ideal round table but the functionality to fit over the existing dining table was the #1 priority.

The trim ring was made and fitted to make sure it would fit the exact dimensions of the octagon. I made it large enough that I could keep the inside octagon shape and also cut a round outer shape. Once the inside dimensions were correct it was time to cut out the ring.

View attachment 157875


My Lewin router jig was not large enough to cut a 62” diameter circle so I had to make a jig. It's not sexy, but it did its job in guiding a round circle.

View attachment 157876


The outer diameter was cut and I had my trim ring for the bottom of the poker table.

View attachment 157877



The playing surface was going to have to be pieced together since it was 62” diameter. I had a bunch of cut out pieces from other oval tables so it was time to put them to good use. If I would have started with 2 fresh sheets I could have made this in 2 pieces, but using prior scraps resulted in doweling 4 pieces. Once doweled together it would all be the same anyways.

View attachment 157878 View attachment 157880 View attachment 157881 View attachment 157882 View attachment 157889


For the rail instead of piecing sheets of plywood together I made an octagon with 12" wide pieces to cut out my 6” rail. I doweled the pieces together and used my same highly advanced circle jig to cut the inside and outside diameters of the rail.

View attachment 157884 View attachment 157885 View attachment 157887 View attachment 157888


With the rail & playing surface cut it is time to install the t-nuts which will hold it all together. (No pics, but had to install the trim ring while lining this all up because the bolts/t-nuts will bolt together the trim ring, playing surface & rail)

View attachment 157889


T-nuts installed lining up all three pieces. The trim ring is not installed in this pic, once I drilled the holes for the bolts I left the trim ring out of the way until I needed it. I didn't want to take the chance of damaging the joints moving it around unnecessarily.

View attachment 157890


T-nuts installed, now it is time to cut the cup holder holes. Cup holder holes are made easy with the jasper jig.

View attachment 157891 View attachment 157892


Time to glue on the cup holder rings.

View attachment 157893


That pretty much concluded the construction part of the build. I prefer the woodwork part of the build but the upholstery is pretty much a necessary evil I guess.
T-Chan printed us a cloth. The center graphic is not my favorite but I really do like the outer diameter design with the suits, the stripes, and it all fading to black around the outside.

View attachment 157894


I put black felt on the underside of the playing surface since this will be sitting directly on the glass dining table top. The jumbo cup holders won’t stick through the bottom of the table so I left the felt cover the holes. Once the bottom trim ring is attached it should have a nice clean look with no cup holder holes exposed.

View attachment 157895


Playing surface foam & cloth installed

View attachment 157896 View attachment 157897


A test fit/sneak peek with the rail. Those stripes and the fade turned out really cool.

View attachment 157898


Back to the trim ring –
It was painted black and edge banded with decorative nails installed.
The very first time I tried installing decorative nails I knew I would never be able to get them exact enough so at that time I made a little jig to get the spacing exact and to keep the nail centered on the ¾" edge.

View attachment 157899


This is a different table, but a close up of my jig.

View attachment 157900


Because of the diameter of the table I also had to piece together the rail foam. Many good suggestions/ideas were given on how to try and get this done in one piece but @ 62" I couldn't find a way to make it work. I think it will be irrelevant anyways because I put the 2 seams down the middle of the cup holders. 1) Minimal exposure, 2) Your arm will never be resting on the seam to feel anything any different.

View attachment 157901



Rail completed. Foam seam looks and feels fine, it is out of the way with the cup holders. I may have been more concerned with this seam if I didn't have the cup holders to "camouflage" it, but none the less it turned out fine.

View attachment 157903


Rail flipped over and the playing surface lined up and installed

View attachment 157904


Bottom trim ring installed with connector bolts

View attachment 157906

And the finished product

View attachment 157907 View attachment 157909

i like the jig you are using to set the nails. Did you make that yourself?
 
Nice build!! How did you get the vinyl stretched over the wide 62” circle?
 
I take the vinyl to an auto upholstery shop and they sew it together.
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but I’m in the early stages of planning a 60” round. Vinyl here only comes in 54” width as well.

When you got the auto upholstery shop to sew it together, did you get them to sew the whole length together? Or just the rail width at each end of the piece because you’ll be cutting out triangles from the inner part anyway.

And I’m guessing its best to sew two 30” width lengths together rather than a 54” width and a 6” width piece so the seam falls in the middle of the rail?

I hope my question makes sense.
 
Get two pieces of vinyl about 72" x 54" long. Then have your auto upholstery shop sew the two pieces together along the 72" side, giving a new piece of vinyl that is about 72" x 108". My upholstery shop used what they called a French seam with backing tape. It is very strong. Then just install the vinyl aligning the seam at the center of your rail.

This pic may help. Just something I found on the internet. Good luck.

French Seam.jpg
 
Get two pieces of vinyl about 72" x 54" long. Then have your auto upholstery shop sew the two pieces together along the 72" side, giving a new piece of vinyl that is about 72" x 108". My upholstery shop used what they called a French seam with backing tape. It is very strong. Then just install the vinyl aligning the seam at the center of your rail.

This pic may help. Just something I found on the internet. Good luck.

View attachment 1228771
That’s very helpful, thank you sir!
 
Beautiful table! How many people do you usually use it with? 6-8?
 

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