Railing preference?

PokerNoob

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what method do you use and why? Does your differ? I personally like the one on the bottom that gives you a nicer flush outside ring. Cuts down on that "mushroom top" look. The middle setup I use for more minimal styles. While the top one is what I feel like most people/youtube video's tend to follow.
 

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yone

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I’m not sure which one I have. I didn’t build it, I bought it from rye park. I’m going to have a game tomorrow, so I will go check when I take off the dining tops. Now I interested to know. I think I have one of the bottom 2.
 

72o

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This was my raised rail construction (the screwed together rail is made up of pieces 1, 2b and 3b):

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yone

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I think mine is probably the middle one without the padding going on the edge. I like it, I don’t think I ever really make contact with the edges of the railing. The pics I have are old not focusing on the railing. I love the faux leather that they used for the railing.

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This is my table now. Will take close ups of rail later.

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Poker Zombie

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My rail is completely different, and is the way I have seen in casinos.

The rail sits on the table surface. Gravity keeps it down. Because the rail goes around the table, it has no lateral movement capability. It quickly disassembles by lifting the rail straight up.
 

Irish

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Top pic for me, padding on the inner & outer portion of the rail. The foam really compresses at the free corners, so while the sides do "mushroom" a bit, the rail should come flush to the table edge where they meet:

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The extent of the mushroom depends on what vinyl & foam you're using, how tall the rail is, and how hard you pull and compress the foam.

Have you built a table using the bottom setup? Since the foam compresses at the bottom corner, I would think that approach would result in the bottom piece actually sticking out a bit. The only way to get a truly "flush" look is the middle pic, I just find this approach isn't as comfortable, I prefer to have that outer corner padded.
 

PokerNoob

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All good input. I like the pictures to help visualize what that will do. Nice tables by the way, thats a killer looking mid mod looking top. I planned on just going with a whisper vinyl fabric and 1" foam from Chanman, and a configuration similar to the black railing your showing there. Thanks for the input.

I'll end up going with this setup in that case.

My rail is completely different, and is the way I have seen in casinos.

The rail sits on the table surface. Gravity keeps it down. Because the rail goes around the table, it has no lateral movement capability. It quickly disassembles by lifting the rail straight up.
So nothing supporting any horizontal movement? I've tried this with a wood racetrack design but found it to be mildly inconvenient when a card happens to slip under the edge.
 

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Poker Zombie

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All good input. I like the pictures to help visualize what that will do. Nice tables by the way, thats a killer looking mid mod looking top. I planned on just going with a whisper vinyl fabric and 1" foam from Chanman, and a configuration similar to the black railing your showing there. Thanks for the input.

I'll end up going with this setup in that case.



So nothing supporting any horizontal movement? I've tried this with a wood racetrack design but found it to be mildly inconvenient when a card happens to slip under the edge.
I've never had a card get underneath - not even a little. The table is padded all the way to the end, so the rail sits and ever so slightly presses into the foam, effectively creating a seal.

I need better pics, but this was a cellphone shot from 2012. Here you see the padded playing surface. On the right you can see the underside of the rail ready to go on.
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The rail consists of 2 bits of wood. One is from a sheet of plywood with an oval cut out of the center (creating the ring). The second is a 1.5" cut from the circumference of the playing surface, which is screwed to the ring, forming the rail. When the rail is set onto the playing surface, the outer circumference surrounds the play surface from whence it was cut. The only possibility for horizontal movement is the distance of the width of a jigsaw blade - and that is filled in by the fabric of the table, the table foam (it wraps under the play surface), and the fabric on the rail.
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Irish

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I've never had a card get underneath - not even a little. The table is padded all the way to the end, so the rail sits and ever so slightly presses into the foam, effectively creating a seal.

I need better pics, but this was a cellphone shot from 2012. Here you see the padded playing surface. On the right you can see the underside of the rail ready to go on.
View attachment 242454

The rail consists of 2 bits of wood. One is from a sheet of plywood with an oval cut out of the center (creating the ring). The second is a 1.5" cut from the circumference of the playing surface, which is screwed to the ring, forming the rail. When the rail is set onto the playing surface, the outer circumference surrounds the play surface from whence it was cut. The only possibility for horizontal movement is the distance of the width of a jigsaw blade - and that is filled in by the fabric of the table, the table foam (it wraps under the play surface), and the fabric on the rail.
View attachment 242466
That's pretty much the same construction as what's pictured in the OP - the only difference is the OP has a full size base sheet underneath your setup, so you get the effect of having the rail sitting on a wood table.
 

Poker Zombie

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That's pretty much the same construction as what's pictured in the OP - the only difference is the OP has a full size base sheet underneath your setup, so you get the effect of having the rail sitting on a wood table.
I think that's the problem with that design though. If the rail sits on a base, the possibility of a card (or worse, a chip) getting underneath increases exponentially.

Beyond that, I used OP #3. I sanded the top edges to round the corners a bit, and 2 people pulling/stapling. Zero "mushroom" effect.
 

72o

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Yes the base sheet underneath would probably allow for cards to slide under the rail. Dunno. I bolt my rail down to the table so there is no way for cards to slide under. Plus I like the added support and look of that extra piece under the table.
 

Poker Zombie

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As long as the table is permanent, slide under cup holders (if you use them) have enough room to slide in, and the slide-unders dont bump into the screws, than that is fine. I just think bolting is an unnecessary step.

However, the look you can get with the extra board and decorative nails (like the table Irish posted) is exceedingly sweet.
 

Irish

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I think that's the problem with that design though. If the rail sits on a base, the possibility of a card (or worse, a chip) getting underneath increases exponentially.

Beyond that, I used OP #3. I sanded the top edges to round the corners a bit, and 2 people pulling/stapling. Zero "mushroom" effect.
As long as the plywood spacer sandwiched in the rail is slightly thinner than the foam, you shouldn't have an issue with cards sneaking under the rail. Foam is typically 1/4", I've used both 1/8" hardboard and 7/32" BC sanded ply without an issue. I also typically bolt down my rails but most of my tables have had the cups built into the rails, they didn't utilize the slide unders.

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72o

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As long as the plywood spacer sandwiched in the rail is slightly thinner than the foam, you shouldn't have an issue with cards sneaking under the rail. Foam is typically 1/4", I've used both 1/8" hardboard and 7/32" BC sanded ply without an issue. I also typically bolt down my rails but most of my tables have had the cups built into the rails, they didn't utilize the slide unders.

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Yup 1/8" hardboard is what I used too.
 

Darson

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I can't believe most of you guys have a double layer playing surface. That must be super heavy. Mine's single layer yet I still find it heavy to move around. Here's how I built mine - all 3/4" plywood. I didn't show it but the playing surface is screwed to the rail.

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Poker Zombie

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I can't believe most of you guys have a double layer playing surface. That must be super heavy. Mine's single layer yet I still find it heavy to move around. Here's how I built mine - all 3/4" plywood. I didn't show it but the playing surface is screwed to the rail.

View attachment 242576
I need pics of that translucent dice table - that looks awesome!
 

Trihonda

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To the OP, the bottom example won’t work. The rail foam will compress and the lower table surface will jut out at you weirdly.
 
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