Proposed build - Large(ish) dismantleable topper with raised rail and leds (1 Viewer)

Nymor

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Picking my wood up Monday coming so for now it's all about the supporting cast.

Metal work now joined by some 3M 77, some clamps and a spanner :)

AMfYpHZ.png


I have a sproket set but it only goes up to 13mm and the bolts are 17mm so decided just to get a simple spanner.

The clamps are really strong so I'm going to have no problem keeping the tension in the cloth while adding the rail. No need for eyelets or velcro so it's going to be really easy doing that part.

Not yet decided if/when adhesive will be used on the playing surface but will certainly be needed for the rail foam.

And talking of foam - it's a regular old foam party here...

uqpqXpJ.png


(top to bottom)
Single piece of 6mm HD foam for the playing surface. Might get split in 2 if I do glue it down but 1 piece in case I go the roll-it-up route.
4 pieces of 6mm HD for the "skirt" - see below.
8 pieces of 1" HD for the rail sections. (These are a bit bigger than they need to be but better that than too small and thinking about now I should have just got a big sheet but whatever)
8 strips closed cell for LED diffuser. Longest length available was 1m so opted for a length per rail section ~610mm instead. They're slightly oversided on height so they will fit really snuggly between the rail overhang and the surface. They'll look good whether the LEDs are on or off and provide a little bit of bounce for overpitched cards rather than then slamming into perspex (for example)


The "Skirt"

Earlier in the thread I proposed some system to hide the cloth excess and cover the outside wood that involved faux leather and poppers attached to the underside of the table. That was a bit complicated I think and the leather (sample) was a bit thick and therefore more difficult to work with than the suede that's being used for the rail. So I've changed that a bit.

Now I'm still having the skirt but it will be out of the same fabric as the rail and have a thin layer of foam to give a bit of a cushion. Rather than attach it to the table with poppers I'm going to be making use of these

cC0b2FZ.jpg

(lace hooks with rivets)

and some paracord to pull it all tight. I'll also be able to hide all this by adding it all on the top side of the skirt. I think it will work pretty well.
 

Dezmond

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Picking my wood up Monday coming so for now it's all about the supporting cast.

Metal work now joined by some 3M 77, some clamps and a spanner :)

AMfYpHZ.png


I have a sproket set but it only goes up to 13mm and the bolts are 17mm so decided just to get a simple spanner.

The clamps are really strong so I'm going to have no problem keeping the tension in the cloth while adding the rail. No need for eyelets or velcro so it's going to be really easy doing that part.

Not yet decided if/when adhesive will be used on the playing surface but will certainly be needed for the rail foam.

And talking of foam - it's a regular old foam party here...

uqpqXpJ.png


(top to bottom)
Single piece of 6mm HD foam for the playing surface. Might get split in 2 if I do glue it down but 1 piece in case I go the roll-it-up route.
4 pieces of 6mm HD for the "skirt" - see below.
8 pieces of 1" HD for the rail sections. (These are a bit bigger than they need to be but better that than too small and thinking about now I should have just got a big sheet but whatever)
8 strips closed cell for LED diffuser. Longest length available was 1m so opted for a length per rail section ~610mm instead. They're slightly oversided on height so they will fit really snuggly between the rail overhang and the surface. They'll look good whether the LEDs are on or off and provide a little bit of bounce for overpitched cards rather than then slamming into perspex (for example)


The "Skirt"

Earlier in the thread I proposed some system to hide the cloth excess and cover the outside wood that involved faux leather and poppers attached to the underside of the table. That was a bit complicated I think and the leather (sample) was a bit thick and therefore more difficult to work with than the suede that's being used for the rail. So I've changed that a bit.

Now I'm still having the skirt but it will be out of the same fabric as the rail and have a thin layer of foam to give a bit of a cushion. Rather than attach it to the table with poppers I'm going to be making use of these

cC0b2FZ.jpg

(lace hooks with rivets)

and some paracord to pull it all tight. I'll also be able to hide all this by adding it all on the top side of the skirt. I think it will work pretty well.
Very nice! It almost looks like you are making this an ikea kit! Heheheheh. It’s good to
Be organized for sure.
 

London24

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I know the chips are the star of the show at PCF, but I'm also here for THIS

Looking forward to seeing this all come together, if it's a success you should consider selling on the DXF files as I'd imagine you've done most of the hard yards in the build just getting to this point
 

London24

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Nice! when's it all being put together?

Particularly interested in your project as I'm also thinking about a modular build that breaks down for storage and has both 8 and 10 seat configs (my design has 3 sections and works with or without the middle).

Also predictably stuck on the eternal question of cup holders in the rail or flip-outs, and LEDs or no LEDs.
 

Nymor

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Nice! when's it all being put together?

I've got everything but the fabric - which was ordered over the weekend so should be here this week. (Black and terracota faux suede).

Going to sand everything down first to tidy everything up. Damp cloth to raise the grain first and then smooth it down. I'll spend a bit more time on the side tables as they are going to be stained (and maybe varnished) and I'm probably going to stain the underside of the base for aesthetic reasons but the rest I'll leave as none of it is visible.

The upholstery part is the big bit but if I take my time and pay attention I should be able to get that complete over the next couple of weeks.

There's still a lot to do - chips and Chanman cloth amongst them - but I'm hoping to get a game in before Christmas.

Particularly interested in your project as I'm also thinking about a modular build that breaks down for storage and has both 8 and 10 seat configs (my design has 3 sections and works with or without the middle).

That's more of a challenge but if you have a separate cloth for each setup I can see it working. As mentioned earlier in this thread my no.1 requirement was for a single uninterrupted playing surface and everything just fell out from that. if you set your key priorities and don't allow compromise on those then you'll end up where you want to be. I hope my journey helps in some way.

Also predictably stuck on the eternal question of cup holders in the rail or flip-outs, and LEDs or no LEDs.

My 2nd core requirement was "no shit on the table" - so cup holders, both cup only and cup + table, are bolt-ons. Drinks, phones and whatever else people want near them are going on them. (Didn't really have room for trolleys and I'm not a big fan of them anyway).

I'm going for a simple warm white soft glow from my LEDs - the coloured individually addressable ones controlled by a Raspberry PI and hooked into tournament software will have to wait :)


Good luck with your build. I have very limited DIY experience so if I can do it ....
 

JP1984

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London24

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Agree that an uninterrupted playing surface is crucial - my solution is, once the table has been assembled for the night (that is, the rail has been plonked on the base), a topper from @rjdev7 hides the patchwork below.

So the base is relatively simple, maybe just 2mm uncovered foam, maybe completely bare, removing one element of the foam / glue / cloth nightmare that's giving me second thoughts about starting in the first place.

I'm kind of comfortable with the construction bit - especially going down the CNC route - it's the upholstery I'm worried about
 

Dezmond

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Can't wait to see assembly work started!!!! This is an amazing build... Would like to hear if anything isn't exact or if you have to change anything for fit and finish.. Make sure to post any bad with the good k?

Good Job!!!!
 

Nymor

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Lots to do before I put it all together but wanted to check it all lines up ok ...

Base

QDvfhfv.jpg


Rail Support

6ELD6eN.jpg


Rail

QiQL9Oj.jpg


A bit of the closed cell foam for LED diffuser - nice and snug without having to fix in place.

Lr61xcs.jpg


All holes lines up perfectly :) (as they should)

TjNyl3v.jpg



Would like to hear if anything isn't exact or if you have to change anything for fit and finish..

I had the M10 holes drilled at 10.1mm ... they're a little too tight and should have been 10.2/3 so have some sanding drums on the way to fix that. Could do it manually but it's ~50 holes so going to let my drill take the strain on that.

Back to the prep ...
 

Nymor

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All M10 holes now expanded to the correct size and all surfaces and edges sanded nicely.

Happier than I probably should be that the t-nuts fit perfectly :)

DgECIjL.jpg


Fabric has arrived so going to start on the upholstery this weekend. The black suede is fine - the terracota a bit brighter than anticipated - and I had samples - so I'll see what it looks like. If it looks rubbish then I'll do the whole rail black but I still like the idea of having alternate colours for each section as it adds an extra bit of spice. We'll see on that.

Only thing I've got to decide is whether I just have the foam on the top and sides (glued with 3M 77) or whether I extend the wrap and staple to the bottom.

1XifLwZ.jpg


I'd originally planned the latter but I see more examples of the former. I just think there's a likelihood of the foam slipping up the side over time with the first style.

A fun w/e ahead - but beers and food are on the agenda for tonight now. (Also got to sort my wildcard out in FPL - Salah or no Salah that is the question...)
 

OfficerLovejoy

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If you wanna know what the most accomplished table builder on this site thinks about this - I've asked him this very question before building my table.
Here you see another one of my highly advanced technical drawings.

IMG_20221021_192359.jpg

IMG_20221021_192824.jpg
 

Nymor

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Went with the above advice - and started the upholstery.

First thing I found out was that the 1mm gap between the rail sections was way too small - needed to be 3 at least - so I had to shave the section ends a bit. Started will sandpaper but soon realised that was going to take forever so bought a rasp and chewed though it.

I'll give myself a B for my subsequent efforts ...

UGpbIYt.jpg


(big toe slipping in there ... for scale :) )

with tidy underside also

6VVVBmB.jpg


(1 & 2 were the first - I then decided I didn't need quite so many staples on the lining part.)

I got the ends as square as I could

2hxEYEC.jpg


The colour is a bit washed out on the above image but below shows it better. I wasn't sure I was going to like the alternating black/maroon thing but I think it's alright. (Each section is ~70cm on the outside rail)

Rail with cup-holders (and diffuser foam)

Jk4L0fa.jpg


and with cup holder/table, with small silicon mat for non-slipness

RJC9oX5.jpg


The (6in) rail feels really good but where the sections meet is something I'd like to improve somehow. It's not awful - and probably close to the best I can expect.
(except the inside left hand end of the closest straight black section - I can see from here that needs an extra staple to pull it down a bit)

PAlWhKI.jpg


but I hink I can make it cleaner. One thought is the have an extra piece of (nicely seamed) fabric wrapped around. A couple of scraps show one way (roughly) - same suede same colours or reversed etc.

roFT0G2.jpg


Loads of options there to play around to make that look better while still being completely take-apart-able.


After taking the above photos ... disaster :oops: . Undoing the bolts and one just wouldn't come out.

Took me a while to realise one of the t-nuts had come lose and was now just turning with the bolt as I tried to undo it. How could that happen? those things dig in. Feeling through the rail foam I could tell the t-nut was still flush so the teeth must have broken - which turns out to have been the case. I don't think I overtightened the bolt but that's the only way I can see that the teeth broke off. Bit of a concern going forward - will just have to be careful.

But anyway there I am trying to get this bolt out with a spinning t-nut. I tried holding it still through the foam but it seemed fairly well jammed onto the bolt and 20 mins of struggle got me nowhere. It was time for something drastic. I was going to have to get in there to replace the t-nut anyway but need to get this bolt out before I can do anything else. So out came a blade.

Some keyhole surgery and the bolt is freed and a new t-nut is in place. The fabric was lost but the foam was saved - clean cut and some 3M 77 did the job there.

N2wv04K.jpg


I have spare fabric so I'm just redoing that but I don't have any spare foam so glad I managed to avoid ordering more.


In other news ...

I'm going to be dying the sidetables and underside of the base and have got a couple of samples on the way to get a good deep red for those. I don't want black as the cup holders are black and there's enough black elsewhere also so a bit of contrast on the tables will work better I think.

Got to do the skirt ... and get going on the cloth which I've not really started yet - sigh.
 
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Nymor

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I really do need to get my cloth ordered from Chanman and I want to try and get as much done before I start to use up the 2 free hours design time Tony offers. I'm pretty sure that should be reserved for implementation in the correct format and final tweaks to the design rather than starting with a completely blank canvas.

From my chips thread the last mockup I had was this

tiySA9N.png


I like the main components - tug of war between angel and devil over Brighton - but need to tone it down a bit (or a lot) as it's a poker cloth that needs to be played on.

I'm pretty happy with the outer part

IrJ6xrE.png


with a devil and angel imp/icon replacing the traditional suits

qhcHcpn.png


Maybe that will change but I think that's about right - relatively dark and borrowing colours from my 2-colour rail.

V4Gv17N.png


It's the middle I need to finalise a bit more. I'm at this point now with the liberal use of emboss filters

aacu5bP.png


but it still needs some work. I certainly want to add some gradients - just outside the betting line and also within the center section itself. Maybe fade it even more and/or introduce more variation on the maroon and greyscale. I like the way these 2 cloths work for example.

EarVFrQ.png
DJ0m6v2.png


My center needs to be brighter maybe.

ramble ramble ...

Any thoughts most welcome.
 

OfficerLovejoy

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I really do need to get my cloth ordered from Chanman and I want to try and get as much done before I start to use up the 2 free hours design time Tony offers. I'm pretty sure that should be reserved for implementation in the correct format and final tweaks to the design rather than starting with a completely blank canvas.

From my chips thread the last mockup I had was this

tiySA9N.png


I like the main components - tug of war between angel and devil over Brighton - but need to tone it down a bit (or a lot) as it's a poker cloth that needs to be played on.

I'm pretty happy with the outer part

IrJ6xrE.png


with a devil and angel imp/icon replacing the traditional suits

qhcHcpn.png


Maybe that will change but I think that's about right - relatively dark and borrowing colours from my 2-colour rail.

V4Gv17N.png


It's the middle I need to finalise a bit more. I'm at this point now with the liberal use of emboss filters

aacu5bP.png


but it still needs some work. I certainly want to add some gradients - just outside the betting line and also within the center section itself. Maybe fade it even more and/or introduce more variation on the maroon and greyscale. I like the way these 2 cloths work for example.

EarVFrQ.png
DJ0m6v2.png


My center needs to be brighter maybe.

ramble ramble ...

Any thoughts most welcome.
Personally, I like a brighter center. :tup:
 

Nymor

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Personally, I like a brighter center. :tup:

Hmm ... I just feel that if it's too busy/colourful it would be distracting. Also one of my friends thinks the angel/devil is a bit homoerotica - which I just don't see - so was trying to tone that down for her sake. But then again it's Brighton
kkeGEAa.png


There are also many versions of that Brighton skyline available
https://fineartamerica.com/profiles/michael-tompsett/art/digital+art/brighton
(the ones without the wheel as that is no longer there)
so I could really go to town on the colours but greyscale or single colour variations are still favourite I think.

I made contact with the artist and I can get a licensed digital copy to use for £10 - which will give me as good a start point as possible and keep everything above board copyright-wise for Tony. Was about to get the greyscale one but will hold off until I know which direction I'm going.

(The devil/angel image is from DeviantArt and free for personal use.)

So many options - but I've got to make a decision soonest as I'm not going to get a game in before Christmas which is what I'm aiming for.
 
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Dezmond

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Don't rush it!!! It's looking awesome so far.. I like the darker colours but will the chips stand out on cloth? Just thinking if any one them blend it, it could be hard to see the chips denom, etc.?? Maybe not though....

In the end, it's yours and you have to like it...
 

Nymor

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A couple more on the more colourful end of the spectrum.

uL4Cx8B.png


c6YRWWJ.png



I quite like these but am worried that the chips will get lost against them.
 

Nymor

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Kicked off the Chanman cloth process :D

With a number of things still outstanding on the parts of the build that would really benefit from a needle and thread I've also just ordered a sewing machine o_O ... and a few other support items to help me cut and hem straight edges.

I've been umming and aring about whether I should do this for a couple of weeks but trying to do the outside skirt part with press studs and iron-on seams really wasn't going to cut it. Got a good black friday deal on a decent beginners machine and am confident I can get to grips with the basic functions I need for what I'm getting it for.

I'm also getting to 3D print a few useful items at last - clam/jam(?) cleats and/or paracord tensioners plus some little coin display stands for the photos of my chips - some of which I got a peak at from Tina :)
 

NeoViny23

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Love to see the progress on this build…

but am worried that the chips will get lost against them.
..haha, yeah, I thought the same as I saw the center of that felt… The contrast between the chips and the felt underlines the pot in a big way….
 
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