Partial Table Build: Questions (1 Viewer)

[Pointaker101]

Anyone have experience with “building” a table using one of the 60” lifetime folding tables from Sam’s?

https://m.samsclub.com/ip/60-in-round-table-new-stackable-design/prod9650110

Limited space so I can’t really do a traditional oval table, unfortunately. I actually have a 48” folding poker table now, but looking to have between 7-9 players this coming weekend and feel that we would feel much more comfortable on a 60”.

I’m thinking of simply buying some table foam and speed cloth and “making” a table. Could potentially also buy some plywood to make a rail, but wanted some input.

I like heaviness of the Sam’s table...would prevent stacks getting knocked down easily.

 

[Trihonda]

Please use a plywood base sheet for the play surface. Do not apply foam and SSc directly to the plastic. I would make this like a table topper, that you can remove from the folding table easily.

 

[Pointaker101]

Please use a plywood base sheet for the play surface. Do not apply foam and SSc directly to the plastic. I would make this like a table topper, that you can remove from the folding table easily.

Thanks for the input...may I ask why applying to the plastic is frowned upon?

 

[Trihonda]

Thanks for the input...may I ask why applying to the plastic is frowned upon?

Plastic is by its nature (on those tales) curvy, and tends to bow in. A nice sheet of ply will keep th8ngs looking and feeling flat.

 

[WedgeRock]

A bit of a tangent, but I've considered building a quick and dirty table using two 48" round tables, slapping a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood on top, then build a rail to sit on top. Because the rail lip would sit *outside* of the 48" round table, you either need to piece it together from smaller strips, or buy a larger piece of plywood. Either way, with a 1" lip, the final produce would be 98" x 50". Only issue would be two sets of legs (not that it would be a terrible thing).

 

[Pointaker101]

A bit of a tangent, but I've considered building a quick and dirty table using two 48" round tables, slapping a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood on top, then build a rail to sit on top. Because the rail lip would sit *outside* of the 48" round table, you either need to piece it together from smaller strips, or buy a larger piece of plywood. Either way, with a 1" lip, the final produce would be 98" x 50". Only issue would be two sets of legs (not that it would be a terrible thing).

View attachment 135218

Thanks for the input. I have a large table already, but due to the space of this particular game, was going for a smaller footprint.

Your plans are interesting though...may be a fun project.

 

[WedgeRock]

It actually might be harder than a full table build. As I said, the lip will be just slightly larger than a 4x8 sheet of plywood, which means you'd need to piece together rail parts (unless you buy a larger piece of plywood, but if you are gonna blow your budget, just build a table) and unless you are really good, you are probably going to have some wobble and give.

I guess you could use a 4x8 sheet for the playing surface and then use two 5x5 pieces for the rail, only having to join them in the middle rather than join them in 4 spots.

42" tables would make a quick and dirty project so much easier.

As for your project, it would be substantially easier than what I propose, but you have the same issue with needing just a little more than a standard 4x8 sheet would allow. Two 5x5 sheets would get it done. I think you just lay the table upside down on one sheet and trace the lip. I'd leave a notch somewhere in that circle so you can always line the lip up with the playing surface in the same spot (unless you have the tools to cut a perfect circle such that lining up the circle won't be necessary).

Once you have the lip traced, cut the upper rail and the lip with the same pass so they are identical. Cut out the inner rail/playing surface. Upholster.

Thinking out loud, if you cut the inner rail and use that cutout as your infield as is standard, this really will just be a topper. The rail won't lock in around the table. My only issue there is that it'll slide/won't be solid. Two solutions.

1.) use a thin veneer for the infield rather than the cutout from the inside cut of the rail lip (as is standard). That way, the rail lip sits a little lower below the playing surface and grips the sides of the table.

2.) Double up the rail lip (so that it hangs down and grips the side of the table). Now you have a *third* piece of 5x5, though.

 

[Trihonda]

Or by using two peieces of 5x5 ply. One for the play surface, one for the rail. IF you upholster under the rail, wrapping the vinyl and foam under the rail, the foam will creat a “lip”around the circumference that will act to hold the table in place.

Edited, nevermind. The 5’ ply sheet equals a 60” round Table. Unless the table wee a tad shy of 60”, my method wouldn’t work. I’d still opt for a removable topper. You could include a couple of t-nuts into the bottom of the topper, and drill a few holes in the tables to match. A couple short t bolts to secure and bam!

 

[WedgeRock]

Or by using two peieces of 5x5 ply. One for the play surface, one for the rail. IF you upholster under the rail, wrapping the vinyl and foam under the rail, the foam will creat a “lip”around the circumference that will act to hold the table in place.

Edited, nevermind. The 5’ ply sheet equals a 60” round Table. Unless the table wee a tad shy of 60”, my method wouldn’t work. I’d still opt for a removable topper. You could include a couple of t-nuts into the bottom of the topper, and drill a few holes in the tables to match. A couple short t bolts to secure and bam!

I think a topper is a good idea too, but I'd want a topper that stays in place and doesn't slide. Not sure that t-bolts through a plastic table would hold it in place. I'd worry about the holes through the plastic table becoming sloppy over time.

Maybe someone has done this before (which is what the OP was asking) and they will say that the weight of the topper is more than enough to hold it in place.

If you didnt care about the table (no plans to use it as a table when it doesn't have a topper), you cut trim part of the rounded side to make it flat and then attached a 2x3 to catch that flat side and hold the table in place.

Edit: I guess to be sure, you'd need at least three points of contact...

 

[Trihonda]

T bolts with some wing nuts would hold it in place just fine. I’ve also built toppers with rubberized shelving liners adhered to the underside too.

 

[Meddler2]

I’ve also built toppers with rubberized shelving liners adhered to the underside too.

I've done this for all my toppers and they stay in place.
Plus all the weight from my fat friends arms and fat stomachs leaning in on the topper hold it in place

 

[BGinGA]

Don't need plywood for the topper, just use 1/4" MDF (epoxy-painted, both sides and edges) with a 1/2" strip in the middle -- allowing it to fold in half. Use Gorilla tape for the seam hinge, then apply foam and fabric, with shelving liner underneath. Rail optional, but you can build a sectional low-rider rail that is highly functional and stores easily.

 

[BGinGA]

I've considered building a quick and dirty table using two 48" round tables, slapping a 4' x 8' sheet of plywood on top

I've done this before using two 36" square folding-leg card tables with an oval-cut 72x36 plywood topper on top (with full rail). I've built a bunch of 36x72 tables and toppers, it's a pretty popular size for small spaces and fits eight players easily with folding chairs.

 

[WedgeRock]

I've done this before using two 36" square folding-leg card tables with an oval-cut 72x36 plywood topper on top (with full rail).

Why not just one long table, like this 6' x 30" table?

Do you secure the topper to the table? I think Trihonda's rubber shelving liner (attached or not) is a good option rather than permanently installing.

 

[BGinGA]

Why not just one long table, like this 6' x 30" table?

It was an impromptu third table needed at the last minute -- I had the topper and he had two card tables (came with his chairs ). I now have two white folding tables I keep in the truck -- a 72" x 36" and a 48" round -- that are used with my folding portable toppers and sectional low-rider rails when needed on the road.

Do you secure the topper to the table? I think Trihonda's rubber shelving liner (attached or not) is a good option rather than permanently installing.

The round topper is secured to the table by the overhanging rail - so no movement of either piece there. The rail is assembled using metal dowel/pins with a locking mechanism (don't recall the name of the hardware).

The oval topper has short 1" x 1/2" wood rails underneath that keep it square and immobilized on the rectangular table. That sectional rail is held in place with hidden velcro and bungee cords underneath the table.

I also have toppers that use rubberized shelf liner underneath for protection and non-movement when placed on kitchen or dining tables.