Must-move tabletop & topper (1 Viewer)

[Taghkanic]

[Skip to the pics in the next posts below if you don’t want/need to hear the backstory...]


I decided to build a simple tabletop and topper for a small must-move/overflow table for my cash game. This is needed because I have been getting 12-13 people showing up pretty regularly over the course of the evening—not all at once. (If I was getting more like 14-16, then I would just build a second full table.)

Generally, 6-8 guys show up at on time at 7:30 pm and the game kicks off once there are at least six. By 9:30 the main table is always full—and I don’t like to play more than 9 if I can help it, considering 7-8 handed ideal for a fun, action-y cash game. Over the next hour or two, another 3-4 people show up, and have to wait for someone to leave to get a seat.

So my thought was to build a small table that could fit 2-6 players, so that late arrivals can get some hands in before the main table opens up. Realistically, this will seldom be more than 2-4 people.

But I did not want even more furniture in my poker space, which is also a gallery/workshop for me and my partner, where she builds sculpture and makes paintings, and I do woodworking projects.

I looked around and my eye fell on an antique side table, 24" x 36", which sits between two easy chairs near the entrance. Since I wanted this must-move table to stow away in a storage area without taking up a lot of space, I decided to use this side table as the stand for a slightly larger topper. Pics and build details in the next post...

 

[Taghkanic]

Here’s the antique side table, pulled out from its usual spot on the wall behind where I’m standing... The top is 2 ft. x 3 ft.

 

[Taghkanic]

I got a 48" x 48" 3/4" plywood board at a big box store, and since cutting was free, had them cut this down to 36" x 48".

When laid over the base of the antique table, this gives a 6" overhang on each side—enough for some added leg room, but not so much that there is likely to be any sag when someone leans on the aged. The design of the table is such that there are cut-ins for the centerpiece tying the legs together, so there is already some legroom under the table.

Then I used a 5-gallon bucket to cut round curves on the corners of the table with a jigsaw, to dress it up a bit, and make it less likely someone bumps the corners.

Next, I cut some 1" x 1" square dowels from some scrap wood I had in my shop to hold the top in place on the table. To make sure it fit, I just put the board on the ground, and turned the table upside-down on it to screw in the dowels in place for a perfect, snug hold.

 

[Taghkanic]

Next, I painted the top, in case I want to use this for some other purpose (such as serving lunch or drinks for a studio visit), and tested out how it worked. It’s not too wobbly—if anything, the weight of the topper effectively pushes down to make the table more secure—but I may fabricate some flat metal braces if my regs put a lot of stress on the antique table.

 

[Taghkanic]

The final step was to cut the pieces for a simple topper, for which I am just letting the surface fabric drape over the edge... I feel this is fine for a small, must-move type table, where no one is likely to spend more than 30-60 minutes at a time. I could in theory add a bolt-on rail for the topper, though I doubt I will.

Here is a shot of the underside, for which I used a remnant of some sort of faux-leather or naugahyde material from the local big box fabric store, which I’ve used on toppers before to reduce slipping. I used 3M 77 spray adhesive, sprayed on both surfaces and allowed to get tacky, to attach both it and my surface fabric to 1/4" closed cell foam from Brybelly.

For the naugahyde and foam, I traced the shape off the topper...

 

[Taghkanic]

Note: I found a device at a hardware store, I guess used for marking lumber, which is a wooden handle that holds an orange crayon-like material. This turned out to be great for marking the fabric shapes that everything would line up nicely. I used a Sharpie to trace the foam.

 

[Taghkanic]

Lastly, I adhered the fabric I prefer for my tables (a waterproof outdoor fabric with a light texture, which can be easily wiped down if it gets dirty) to the other side of the 1/4" closed cell foam, using the marker mentioned above to delineate the area to spray. I then trimmed the fabric to hang down evenly around the table, and that’s it!

I might trim it again for less of an overhang. Right now it’s about 10".

 

[Taghkanic]

BTW, in setting up the shot above, I randomly dealt a hand, which turned out pretty wild:

I mean, really? Two players flopped a straight. Another flopped a gutshot to the nut straight, with two overs. The last (at bottom) flopped a gutshot and a backdoor flush, then turned a straight. The eight pairing on the end raises the specter of a full house beating one of the three straights... But knowing my crew, all four would have been in the hand to the end, with only the QJ folding to river raises.

Shoulda added a faux splash pot. Oh well.

 

[Taghkanic]

P.S. After building this small topper, another use for it occurred to me... Shooting pics for chip pr0n or sales...

This is about as basic a table “build” as it gets... But it was satisfying and should prove useful.

 

[Taghkanic]

P.P.S. I never mentioned the height of the table. Since the side table was 29.5" tall, with the board, naugahyde, fabric and foam the surface winds up around 30-5/8" inches high. A tiny bit high, but serviceable. My Thonet bentwood chairs sit up a bit, so it’s really kind of perfect.

 

[Machine]

BTW, in setting up the shot above, I randomly dealt a hand, which turned out pretty wild:

View attachment 961291

I mean, really? Two players flopped a straight. Another flopped a gutshot to the nut straight, with two overs. The last (at bottom) flopped a gutshot and a backdoor flush, then turned a straight. The eight pairing on the end raises the specter of a full house beating one of the three straights... But knowing my crew, all four would have been in the hand to the end, with only the QJ folding to river raises.

Shoulda added a faux splash pot. Oh well.

You holdem guys have a tame since of 'Wild'

enjoyed the post!

 

[timinater]

Very similar to the topper I built for the same reasons. I went with a 3" rail and a 48" round setup. I just pop it on a folding card table and Robert's your father's brother.

I had a similar idea as well about the dowel on the bottom to register it to the table, but haven't added that yet, nice to see it in action.

Edit: I'd be tempted to sew an elastic or otherwise tie down or secure that table cloth. Makes me nervous that someone might get up and drag the cloth with them.

 

[Taghkanic]

I had a similar idea as well about the dowel on the bottom to register it to the table, but haven't added that yet, nice to see it in action.

It’s really quick and easy, per above. Just put the top face down on the floor, turn the table over onto the underside of the top, cut square dowels or really any narrow boards to 12-24", place them along each side, and screw into the top (being sure to use a screw short enough that it won’t go through!

I placed these stops maybe a millimeter each back of the table edge, just so there was a tiny amount of “play” and no need to mash the top over the table to get it to fit. It effectively does not move.

Edit: I'd be tempted to sew an elastic or otherwise tie down or secure that table cloth. Makes me nervous that someone might get up and drag the cloth with them.

I guess anything can happen, but someone would have to try pretty hard to do that. The faux-leather adhered to the foam feels a little tacky, and really does not want to move. Plus you’ve got stacks of chips and the other players’ elbows holding it down as a rule.

But if I trim it to a shorter drape, more like 5" instead of 10", that would probably reduce the risk you mention even more.

 

[Taghkanic]

(In theory I could probably squeeze 6 players onto this side table, but ideally that will never happen.)

 

[Taghkanic]

FWIW the outdoor fabric I’ve been using on tables and toppers instead of speedcloth or gaming felt is Richloom Solarium outdoor, here in Rave Black. They have a ton of solid colors, and many patterns, though few patterns I think would work for poker.

It has a subtle crosshatched texture, but quite flat. Others might disagree, but I feel it has the right combination of slide and grippiness.

Easily vacuumed, and cleans up even better wipes down with a microfiber cloth. Spillproof!

The standard width is 54 inches, and it’s sold by the yard. They sometimes have some colors at Joann Fabric.