Making your own inlay stickers (3 Viewers)

[Poker Zombie]

To say that T50s are inefficient is as simple as looking in your pocket change. How many 50¢ pieces do you have? The US Mint still produces them, but they seldom get used. Why?

They're inefficient.

OK, so you like the looks of them. Would the lack of T50s break your game? Do you play in a casino and gripe "I wish they had T50s?" Would your players cease to show because you had better chips, but no T50s?

Just because you've been doing it a certain way for years does not make it better, or even good. I've been to long-running games that didn't even use a blind structure, the just doubled the blinds ever time a player was eliminated. Do you think that's right? They certainly did. Even after I approached them with a decent structure, they responded with "We've always done it this way. We aren't trying to be a casino. We like it".

But it was inefficient, and wrong. The game may still be running, I don't know. Even though it was profitable and the people were fun, it was irreparably broken, so I quit going.

 

[allforcharity]

Hey, but moar chips is moar chips, right? (y) :thumbsup:

 

[Moxie Mike]

So how did a productive discussion of DIY labels devolve into a pissing match about his choice of denominations?

 

[Poker Zombie]

So how did a productive discussion of DIY labels devolve into a pissing match about his choice of denominations?

The very first line of the OP. The first 5 words were, "I dont have the money".

Optimizing a set breakdown opens up the money.

The "pissing" occured because the OP got defensive. Yes BG can be abrasive. I don't always agree with him. Use the search function, and every time I post about 25/75 blinds I take a cheap shot at him. I don't use or like the 25/75 blind, but I would never devolve to calling BG a "closed-minded, egotistical, bigot", because as much as I don't like 25/75, BG's is right - it is a better M progression.

 

[allforcharity]

but I would never devolve to calling BG a "closed-minded, egotistical, bigot",.

Scene change - Courtroom Interior

Prosecuting Attorney - "So, you admit to having THOUGHT as much, you just didn't SAY it out loud!"

(much gasping from the public gallery)

 

[Poker Zombie]

...well, I never thought he was a bigot.

 

[Annorax]

I use the printable vinyl sheets for my SNES repro cart labels and out-of-region carts. They look great, but they definitely need a laminate of some form sprayed on to protect the ink; without that, ink will start rubbing off eventually.

I wish I'd thought of the 24mm punch before buying paper labels for my ancient PGI Great Wall solids though... FML.

 

[Taghkanic]

I use vinyl waterproof full-sheet labels to print small batches (relabeling a barrel or two for seating chips, for example). Obviously for bigger jobs, people here will go to the site’s pro, and should.

I’m interested to know how the heck anyone ever manages to get Avery or other precut labels to align properly on an inkjet printer. I use a hand punch because despite being pretty good with printing, and having a relatively high-end Canon, the tolerances for aligning symmetrical designs within a circle this size are really tight.

Also: I see those Cricut machines every time I have to go to my Unfriendly Neighborhood Big Box Craft Store. Every time I get tempted. They have a zillion models now it seems... Anyone have specifics on their pros/cons for labeling projects?

 

[Annorax]

I get the generic precut labels to work with a Photoshop template and learning the margin adjustments for my particular printer through trial and error (which took about 50 sheets to get right). I'd still prefer to go to Gear, but I can't afford to do that for projects the size of what I'm doing with the Cattery set.

 

[ekricket]

A few years back I made my own labels with sheets of label stock and a punch. These were for some nexgen chips I had laying around
I printed the labels on the vinyl sheets, then took the sheets to Staples and had them laminated - but in a special way. I took two sheets of labels back to back and had them laminated together. Then I trimmed off the excess right up against the edges, and then you can seperate the two sheets, leaving only the faces laminated but the backs still Peelable. Then using a punch I bought from hobby lobby I punched out the labels and applied. Cheap laminated labels. I’m sure you could do this with paper labels as well, using the thinnest laminate they have.
Peeling tiny circles is a pain in the ass though, so I’ve always went Gear labels since then, peeling them off a sheet is much much easer.

 

[Taghkanic]

With the hole punch, I found a type where I can see the alignment by turning it upside down.

Once it’s adjusted in place, I lightly press the lever so it is just putting enough pressure to hold it there.

Then I can carefully flip it over onto a hard surface and get a clean, well-aligned punch.

There is still some loss (maybe one label in 10), but for a small job this works fine.

 

[Taghkanic]

P.S.: The punches do get dull pretty fast. They aren’t terribly expensive, so I bought two. @allforcharity I think gave me the tip that punching tin foil helps sharpen the punch. I’ve tried it, but can’t say for sure if it helps. Hasn’t seemed to hurt.

 

[zo121179]

I’m interested to know how the heck anyone ever manages to get Avery or other precut labels to align properly on an inkjet printer. I use a hand punch because despite being pretty good with printing, and having a relatively high-end Canon, the tolerances for aligning symmetrical designs within a circle this size are really tight.

*Using Avery.com* I found that copying and pasting a picture into the software none of the labels would line up. With trial and error I've learned the best method is to use as many of the avery.com tools as you can. Now the only import into the software is my inlay shape (which I find a shape I like, edit it with paint 3d to just the shape on a transparent PNG file) and my "casino logo" I want. From there I use avery.com for colors and text. For some reason avery does not like JPEG files.

Using that method I might have 1 row slightly off but not enough to throw them away. I also use a clear rustoleum spray for art to help protect the ink. Coupled with a laser and not inkjet printer my tournament set I made gets lots of use and ZERO ink transfer or fade.

Also: I see those Cricut machines every time I have to go to my Unfriendly Neighborhood Big Box Craft Store. Every time I get tempted. They have a zillion models now it seems... Anyone have specifics on their pros/cons for labeling projects?

My 8V set I had to use the cricut. These I used sticker paper (not recommended if you want to change your mind) and what I constantly use now vinyl sheets with the same clear rustoleum spray. The cricut is far superior to any pre made labels because you can cut to any size. Plus the wife helps out with projects which she enjoys doing.

Maybe one day when I can afford a nice set I'll go with gear, but as long as my budget only allows for plastic and some ceramics I'll be doing to work.

 

[liftapint]

Mellagio!!

 

[Kid_Eastwood]

Well the design idea I have is actually just gray scale, so ink cost wouldn’t be a major factor. Here is a mockup, inspired directly from the Bellagio:

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I already got sample sets of the Milanos and Majestics, I took photos of the chip colors I’d get and photoshopped the inlays on them to see what they look like:

The Milanos
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The Majesctics
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I don’t know if Mellagio means something. If the goal is to just use another name for copyright reasons, I would suggest to use « Menaggio » instead and « Como Lake » instead of Las Vegas, Nevada.

Menaggio is a small town on the border of the Como Lake, just in front of another town called... Bellagio... on the other side of the lake. ;-)

We’ve a house in this region, really amazing place.

Menaggio

 

[Fishmonger]

I know this is an old thread but I used an auto wrap place to print my inlays for my 8v set that I bought from ABC. I wanted a cheap alternative to cheap chips. But didn't want to try to print my own. Because I know I would of messed that up. I paid $50 for 2000 inlays. So for 2.5 cents an inlay, im real happy with the results. He used 3M scotchcal vinyl. Found him on eBay.

 

[BEANO52]

Mellagio!!

Hmm . . . You've given me a Great idea !

Ménage-à-troisio

 

[Taghkanic]

I know this is an old thread but I used an auto wrap place to print my inlays for my 8v set that I bought from ABC.

Did they cut them for you as well?

 

[Fishmonger]

Did they cut them for you as well?

Yes. Gave him the de

Did they cut them for you as well?

Yeah, they were cut to my specifications. There is no choice of textured vinyl. The vinyl that its printed on most closely resembles " glossy vinyl smooth laminate". And they are fairly thin. So it will show imperfections in the inlay area. I posted pics because all the 8vs have a ring on one side. But I just made it like a border for the text.

 

[Jake14mw]

I've had superb success printing my own labels using the avery.com template and round labels. The print quality has never been an issue and if a few labels don't look right, you can easily reprint from your saved project on Avery. As far as using up your ink, it doesn't take much ink to print out 2000 labels and now that HP printers can accept non HP cartridges, price is not an issue. I got a 4-pack of color and B&W extra capacity for under $25 on Amazon. The only issue is finding the right size label for the recess area. You may not be able to find ones that fit as perfectly as Gearx etc but will find something close enough.
As far as durability goes, I haven't noticed any color fading or wear from shuffling etc.; and liguid doesn't seem to make them smear or smudge either. But if it's a concern for you, I've also had great success spraying each sheet (after printing) with a light coat of clear high gloss enamel. Just let them dry for several hours to a day before applying. Good luck!

Can you give me a little more advice regarding this? So, did you buy Avery circular labels, and just use the template online and print them yourself? How do you get the colors right? I had my custom labels for my Nexgens printed for me over 10 years ago, and I'm looking to print some more of my own now. My existing labels are 1". This is for a small amount of cash game chips. I have a feeling I will want to upgrade to nicer chips soon, so I don't want to spend much on labels now. Thanks for any advice you or anyone has.

 

[Meddler2]

Can you give me a little more advice regarding this? So, did you buy Avery circular labels, and just use the template online and print them yourself? How do you get the colors right? I had my custom labels for my Nexgens printed for me over 10 years ago, and I'm looking to print some more of my own now. My existing labels are 1". This is for a small amount of cash game chips. I have a feeling I will want to upgrade to nicer chips soon, so I don't want to spend much on labels now. Thanks for any advice you or anyone has.

Yes Avery round labels and just matched color in ppt. Be willing to accept imperfection.

 

[Jake14mw]

I wonder if using clear labels would work? Then I would not have to worry about exact color matching. Not sure about that though

 

[juankay20]

Is it worth the time to customize labels? I'm pretty new to this, so i'm feeling out the best options. I'm looking at ceramics, because i'm not too thrilled with the CCs designs - the higher end clays are out of my range right now. Wondering if it would be worth replacing some of the CC labels with a custom job.

 

[Poker Zombie]

Is it worth the time to customize labels? I'm pretty new to this, so i'm feeling out the best options. I'm looking at ceramics, because i'm not too thrilled with the CCs designs - the higher end clays are out of my range right now. Wondering if it would be worth replacing some of the CC labels with a custom job.

I've customized 3600+ China Clay chips. To me, the custom aspect is worth every penny. I could also tout the improved security aspect of chips than cannot have forgeries easily purchased, but most home games aren't concerned about security at that level.

But there are more special aspects too, like being able to add commemoratives to a set:

Sometimes you just want to get your inner geek on. Customs to the rescue!

Sometimes you want a easily replaceable chip, because of the very real possibility that one will get lost hundreds of miles from home. Sure it's 30 cents more on a 10 cent chip... but it's just 30 cents to replace a lost chip!

Sometimes you just want a micro-stakes game. Good luck finding a really good nickle without customizing.

I believe customizing allows you to enjoy your chips more, because they are personal. Here we have both a concept, and Mrs Zombie's and my initials. You just won't get that at the store.

Now some will describe the act of customizing a cheap chip "throwing good money after bad".

They don't have pics though.

 

[juankay20]

I've customized 3600+ China Clay chips. To me, the custom aspect is worth every penny. I could also tout the improved security aspect of chips than cannot have forgeries easily purchased, but most home games aren't concerned about security at that level.

But there are more special aspects too, like being able to add commemoratives to a set:
View attachment 423215

Sometimes you just want to get your inner geek on. Customs to the rescue!
View attachment 423218

Sometimes you want a easily replaceable chip, because of the very real possibility that one will get lost hundreds of miles from home. Sure it's 30 cents more on a 10 cent chip... but it's just 30 cents to replace a lost chip!
View attachment 423219

Sometimes you just want a micro-stakes game. Good luck finding a really good nickle without customizing.
View attachment 423220

I believe customizing allows you to enjoy your chips more, because they are personal. Here we have both a concept, and Mrs Zombie's and my initials. You just won't get that at the store.
View attachment 423221

Now some will describe the act of customizing a cheap chip "throwing good money after bad".

They don't have pics though.

Those look amazing! Where did you get the labels, and what supplies did you need (i.e. glue type, vendor for the labels, etc.)?

 

[Poker Zombie]

Those look amazing! Where did you get the labels, and what supplies did you need (i.e. glue type, vendor for the labels, etc.)?

Gear Labels. The labels are self adhesive, just peel and stick.

The labels come on big sheets.

Application is painlessly easy.

 

[Raphmivey]

I was going to start my own thread but it looks like this one is already going. I'm going to share my story because it could answer a lot of unanswered questions.

For starters I love your design. I'm not a very creative and am not very good with photoshop or paint. Plus I'm a father of 3 young kids. I don't have either the time or the money to get a quality product. So a year back I started watching @Hobbyphilic and scored on the NEXGEN Pro's from Amazon. I bought a 1,000 chip set and a 650 chip set Oct of last year when on amazon there were $$65-75/set. I joined the forum and started looking for help and everyone said to go to @Gear. Being a DIY'er I wanted to at least try to make my own. You'd be surprised how fast a year goes by and how much money goes with it getting pissed off. Being a stubborn SOB I wasn't going to fail.

About the time I finally settled on both a cash set design and tourney set design I found another great deal on a real pretty looking set of the cheap Desert Palms non denoms. 595 chips for $60 is a helluva good deal for this site, so I jumped on them. Thanks again @Mace. I went from printing my labels on paper and punching them all out just to have the ink run when they got wet. (That really sucked and pissed me off) Then I had my wife teach me how to use a cricut and began making labels on sticker vinyl. This is by far the best quality especially when you coat the labels with matte modge podge. It give the sticker a nice feel and protects the ink from wetness and use. Plus it's cheap.. The paper I went a step further because I hated using my wife's cricut. I began using Avery 6450 1" white labels. The software at avery.com is very simple to use and you can save your work in case you fuck up. The bitch about this is getting your printer to line up with your work. This is a process but once you get it's super slick. I did waste about $25 in paper trying to learn, 11 months of my life learning how to get a good (not great) product that I'm happy with.

For me it was something to do. A hobby. Not an easy way out. I wish I had the dough to buy from gear and buy a nice set of Paulsons but I don't. I only have about $40 a paycheck to have fun with. Sure I could have saved and I would saved a lot of heart ache but my kids got involved, I learned a new trade and at my future home game I won't be using those damn dice chips. Cash set isn't done yet but were just a few weeks away. If you have any questions please feel free to PM at any time.

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Great post thank you. So finally the chips used are the desert palm correct? I'll try the avery site.

 

[RudysNYC]

Relative newbie and coming here just to share the cheapo method I used on my first set. Found very cheap Claysmiths online, and had 1" vinyl stickers printed up at Online Labels. The chips were cheap as hell, and having the "inlays" printed up on weatherproof PET cost total just over 10¢ a chip, shipping and everything considered.

Obviously I'd expect most people here at PCF to be able to identify off the bat that they're not proper inlays, but they didn't affect stackability at all and seem to be really durable. Not trying to take away from any of the hardworking vendors here, I just feel it's a decent option for people who know what they want printed and are looking to really skimp and save!

 

[allforcharity]

Relative newbie and coming here just to share the cheapo method I used on my first set. Found very cheap Claysmiths online, and had 1" vinyl stickers printed up at Online Labels. The chips were cheap as hell, and having the "inlays" printed up on weatherproof PET cost total just over 10¢ a chip, shipping and everything considered.

Obviously I'd expect most people here at PCF to be able to identify off the bat that they're not proper inlays, but they didn't affect stackability at all and seem to be really durable. Not trying to take away from any of the hardworking vendors here, I just feel it's a decent option for people who know what they want printed and are looking to really skimp and save!

This is probably a very good option for a lot of people. To me, it certainly doesn't make sense to spend 30+ cents to label a mass-produced 38 cent chip, especially if it's not going to be a forever set, unless you're creating something totally new or choices are extremely limited.

High end chips, however, deserve high end labels.

 

[Poker Zombie]

Relative newbie and coming here just to share the cheapo method I used on my first set. Found very cheap Claysmiths online, and had 1" vinyl stickers printed up at Online Labels. The chips were cheap as hell, and having the "inlays" printed up on weatherproof PET cost total just over 10¢ a chip, shipping and everything considered.

Obviously I'd expect most people here at PCF to be able to identify off the bat that they're not proper inlays, but they didn't affect stackability at all and seem to be really durable. Not trying to take away from any of the hardworking vendors here, I just feel it's a decent option for people who know what they want printed and are looking to really skimp and save!

Key point of distinction: Inlays are made as a part of the chip production process. A label is an adhesive sticker. As a self-proclaimed newbie, you wouldn't know (I probably also made the same mistake early on). I haven't seen it come up in quite a while, so you just won the free information prize.

That said, I have added/replaced labels on over 3000 "cheap" chips. The cheapest chips I have, I purchased at a steal of 5¢/chip. As much as I would like to relabel them all, it would be unreasonable to spend 4x more on those. So I both agree and disagree with @allforcharity 's point. Sometimes it makes sence, sometimes it doesn't.