How often do you go all-in during NLHE cash games (1 Viewer)

Question, to see whether your players understand some elements:

Pot starts with two BB (you're playing a game with one BB in the Small and the Big.)

Let's say four people limp in. Then someone raises to make the bet 4 BB.

Next person wants to 3-bet, putting in a half-pot raise. How much should they put up?

It's early for math, but that's 2 for the blinds, 4 for the limpers and 4 for the raise, so 10. Then a half pot raise would be 9?, 4, then half the pot (5) because they cannot raise by one (5 total, 4+1) because that is not a min raise?

Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

I don't know for a fact that we have been enforcing a min raise rule, so there might be a few times post flop that people are not raising that much, which would in turn mean the pots are smaller then they would be if the rule were enforced and less worth shoving for.
 
The hope is that a couple are going to start playing more aggressively. The game is very passive, and although I don't think I am making mistakes that would cost me chips at a casino because I know I would need to tighten up, I am getting away with far more steals then I would if other consistently played back at me.

I think that if you've played 25 hours and haven't gone all in at least once, playing even tighter might cause your body's cells to collapse on themselves and form a singularity.
 
It's early for math, but that's 2 for the blinds, 4 for the limpers and 4 for the raise, so 10. Then a half pot raise would be 9?, 4, then half the pot (5) because they cannot raise by one (5 total, 4+1) because that is not a min raise?

Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

I don't know for a fact that we have been enforcing a min raise rule, so there might be a few times post flop that people are not raising that much, which would in turn mean the pots are smaller then they would be if the rule were enforced and less worth shoving for.

I say this with all possible kindness. Unless you run as hot as the sun, you're going to get slaughtered in your first casino 2/5 session.
 
I say this with all possible kindness. Unless you run as hot as the sun, you're going to get slaughtered in your first casino 2/5 session.

Why do you say that? Because I don't understand something?

I don't plan on playing in a casino any time soon because I don't think I'm ready. This thread seems to be confirming that.

Think I'm gonna start posting my hands and get reviews. Assuming we get a game this weekend.
 
You want to be building pots pre flop and on the flop so that you are able to make an ALL-IN bet when you are very strong. Most money made/lost in Hold'em can be traced to a few big hands during a session. Maximizing your profit when you make the occasional strong hand is very important to being a winning player.

You also need to bet ALL-IN as a bluff sometimes to mix up your play so that you aren't easily exploited. If the only time you are betting all in is when you have a monster you won't be getting called very often when you want to be called.

Learning the right spots to bluff ALL IN is not easy and takes a lot of table time to develop.
 
Learning the right spots to bluff ALL IN is not easy and takes a lot of table time to develop.

Sometimes it's just a matter of knowing when your buddy is weak.
Unfortunately sometimes he knows you're weak too, and you end up winning or losing an all-in with a high card.
Good stuff
 
You want to be building pots pre flop and on the flop so that you are able to make an ALL-IN bet when you are very strong. Most money made/lost in Hold'em can be traced to a few big hands during a session. Maximizing your profit when you make the occasional strong hand is very important to being a winning player.

You also need to bet ALL-IN as a bluff sometimes to mix up your play so that you aren't easily exploited. If the only time you are betting all in is when you have a monster you won't be getting called very often when you want to be called.

Learning the right spots to bluff ALL IN is not easy and takes a lot of table time to develop.

I know that I need to be preflop betting more, posting here is helpful.

I do bluff, but it's usually 1/3 pot, maybe a little more when it's gets checked to me. I could not imagine going all in on a bluff, but can see how that be very powerful in the right situation, pushing someone off of a decent hand because you can represent so many other hands that beat it.
 
I know that I need to be preflop betting more, posting here is helpful.

I do bluff, but it's usually 1/3 pot, maybe a little more when it's gets checked to me. I could not imagine going all in on a bluff, but can see how that be very powerful in the right situation, pushing someone off of a decent hand because you can represent so many other hands that beat it.

Where this comes into play is making sure you know your opponents. I will rarely attempt to bluff the bad players. In our home games I will rarely bluff John. However, I can make a move against @mike32 or @ThePunk because their solid players.

I really need to stop trying to bluff @ChaosRock . I think he can read my soul :)
 
I say this with all possible kindness. Unless you run as hot as the sun, you're going to get slaughtered in your first casino 2/5 session.

Why do you say that? Because I don't understand something?

I agree with Bergs, but it's not because of a particular thing you don't understand...

although I don't think I am making mistakes that would cost me chips at a casino because I know I would need to tighten up, I am getting away with far more steals then I would if other consistently played back at me.

I'd propose that you won't be able to do well in a typical casino game by taking the techniques you're refining in this ultra-passive game and "tightening up" or, for that matter, making any other basic refinement.

I believe that you are simply cannot get good at the "casino game" because the game in which you're practicing is too different. There are a wide variety of behaviors which you're doing that are profitable or don't hurt you because of your passive table... and another set of behaviors you don't do do because they don't pay off at your passive table, but which you need to be learning and practicing. You are practicing against a set of behaviors that are completely unlike the behaviors you'll face in more typical poker games.

Simply put, it's like you're practicing a whole different game!

It's a bit like playing tennis with a group of people whose goal is to get the ball over the net. Sure, you're keeping score and playing tennis, but if you go up against a serious tennis player, you should expect to fare poorly. Your skills cannot improve until your opponents improve. The reasons are simple: you really have no idea what your weaknesses are, because nobody has probed them... and you have no idea how to play into tough opponents, because you haven't faced one. Maybe one of the players you're with are capable of playing hard against you, and then you can both learn, but until you both start playing hard, neither of you learn.

It's early for math, but that's 2 for the blinds, 4 for the limpers and 4 for the raise, so 10. Then a half pot raise would be 9?, 4, then half the pot (5)...

Please correct me if I am wrong on this.

Sorry, but you are incorrect.

Blinds posted: pot is 2.
Four people limp: pot is 6.
Person raises to 4: pot is 10.
Making a half-pot raise: you must bet 11.

Why? Remember, in that position, if you chose to call - that is, to raise by zero - you'd put up 4. The first four isn't part of a raise at all. So you need to put up 4 as a call, and then calculate the raise. Your 4 makes the pot 14; a half-pot raise is 7. Your call of 4 plus your raise of 7 is a total of 11.

We all seem to know that saying "I call your four and raise you 7" is an illegal string bet... but many of us seem to forget that although saying that is illegal, it is, in fact, the correct logical way to calculate the bets!

If you doubt that the answer of 11 is correct... assume all the limpers fold and it goes back around do the first raiser. You've made a total bet of 11, increasing the pot to 21. They already have 4 in front of them; to call, they need to put up 7 more. So they need to put up 7/21 of the pot - or 1/3. A 1/3 pot call. Isn't that what you'd face after a half-pot bet?

If that's still troubling, think of a simpler situation; no raises at all. Assume the pot was 14 pre-flop because of the action. After the flop, someone leads out with a half-pot bet of 7. The next person is deciding whether or not to call 7, given a pot of 21. That's a 1/3 pot call because of a 1/2 pot bet.

Making a half-pot raise need to put your opponent into that same calling situation.

Going back to the original example, what happens if your bet is 9? That's a call of 4 plus a raise of 5, and it increases the total pot from 10 to 19. Assume the limpers fold and it's back to that raiser. How much is it to call? They already have 4 in front of them, so it's 5 to call... and the pot is 19. They only need to pay about 26% of the pot to call. They're getting in cheap. And, in many cases, your weak raise may mean they are correct to call.

You don't make money at poker making bets which are correct for your opponent to call!

In general, I'll guess that you're already among the most aggressive bettors at the table. But even your betting is passive compared to what you think you're betting. As a consequence, the pots don't grow as they properly should in a no-limit game. As Rhodeman77 said,

You want to be building pots pre flop and on the flop so that you are able to make an ALL-IN bet when you are very strong.

Just so! If you and the other players are not betting and raising proper fractions of the pot, the pots will almost never grow big enough that all-in bets are correct, as all-in calls, or all-in raises, etc. But once you and a few others learn to properly bet according to the pot size, then you'll be playing no-limit poker.

One other fine point:

because they cannot raise by one (5 total, 4+1) because that is not a min raise?

If the blind is 1 and the first raiser made it 4, they have raised by 3. (They have increased the bet by 3; in other words, they called 1 and raised 3.) Your minimum raise is another 3. So you could, if you wanted to, bet 7. (Calling four and raising it by another 3.)
 
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I agree with Bergs, but it's not because of a particular thing you don't understand...



I'd propose that you won't be able to do well in a typical casino game by taking the techniques you're refining in this ultra-passive game and "tightening up" or, for that matter, making any other basic refinement.

I believe that you are simply cannot get good at the "casino game" because the game in which you're practicing is too different. There are a wide variety of behaviors which you're doing that are profitable or don't hurt you because of your passive table... and another set of behaviors you don't do do because they don't pay off at your passive table, but which you need to be learning and practicing. You are practicing against a set of behaviors that are completely unlike the behaviors you'll face in more typical poker games.

Simply put, it's like you're practicing a whole different game!

It's a bit like playing tennis with a group of people whose goal is to get the ball over the net. Sure, you're keeping score and playing tennis, but if you go up against a serious tennis player, you should expect to fare poorly. Your skills cannot improve until your opponents improve. The reasons are simple: you really have no idea what your weaknesses are, because nobody is strong enough to probe them... and you have no idea how to play into tough opponents, because you haven't had many (any?)



Sorry, but you are incorrect.

Blinds posted: pot is 2.
Four people limp: pot is 6.
Person raises to 4: pot is 10.
Making a half-pot raise: you must bet 11.

Why? Remember, in that position, if you chose to call - that is, to raise by zero - you'd put up 4. The first four isn't part of a raise at all. So you need to put up 4 as a call, and then calculate the raise. Your 4 makes the pot 14; a half-pot raise is 7. Your call of 4 plus your raise of 7 is a total of 11.

We all seem to know that saying "I call your four and raise you 7" is an illegal string bet... but many of us seem to forget that although saying that is illegal, it is, in fact, the correct logical way to calculate the bets!

If you doubt that the answer of 11 is incorrect... assume all the limpers fold and it goes back around do the first raiser. You've made a total bet of 11, increasing the pot to 21. They already have 4 in front of them; to call, they need to put up 7 more. So they need to put up 7/21 of the pot - or 1/3. A 1/3 pot call. Isn't that what you'd face after a half-pot bet?

If that's still troubling, think of a simpler situation; no raises at all. Assume the pot was 14 pre-flop because of the action. After the flop, someone leads out with a half-pot bet of 7. The next person is deciding whether or not to call 7, given a pot of 21. That's a 1/3 pot call because of a 1/2 pot bet.

Making a half-pot raise need to put your opponent into that same calling situation.

Going back to the original example, what happens if your bet is 9? That's a call of 4 plus a raise of 5, and it increases the total pot from 10 to 19. Assume the limpers fold and it's back to that raiser. How much is it to call? They already have 4 in front of them, so it's 5 to call... and the pot is 19. They only need to pay about 26% of the pot to call. They're getting in cheap. And, in many cases, your weak raise may mean they are correct to call.

You don't make money at poker making bets which are correct for your opponent to call!

In general, I'll guess that you're already among the most aggressive bettors at the table. But even your betting is passive compared to what you thing you're betting. As a consequence, the pots don't grow as they properly should in a no-limit game. As Rhodeman77 said,



Just so! If you and the other players are not betting and raising proper fractions of the pot, the pots will almost never grow big enough that all-in bets are correct, as all-in calls, or all-in raises, etc. But once you and a few others learn to properly bet according to the pot size, then you'll be playing no-limit poker.

One other fine point:



If the blind is 1 and the first raiser made it 4, they have raised by 3. (They have increased the bet by 3; in other words, they called 1 and raised 3.) Your minimum raise is another 3. So you could, if you wanted to, bet 7. (Calling four and raising it by another 3.)

Its good to see you posting again :) Work finally slow down for you?
 
I agree with Bergs, but it's not because of a particular thing you don't understand...



I'd propose that you won't be able to do well in a typical casino game by taking the techniques you're refining in this ultra-passive game and "tightening up" or, for that matter, making any other basic refinement.

I believe that you are simply cannot get good at the "casino game" because the game in which you're practicing is too different. There are a wide variety of behaviors which you're doing that are profitable or don't hurt you because of your passive table... and another set of behaviors you don't do do because they don't pay off at your passive table, but which you need to be learning and practicing. You are practicing against a set of behaviors that are completely unlike the behaviors you'll face in more typical poker games.

Simply put, it's like you're practicing a whole different game!

It's a bit like playing tennis with a group of people whose goal is to get the ball over the net. Sure, you're keeping score and playing tennis, but if you go up against a serious tennis player, you should expect to fare poorly. Your skills cannot improve until your opponents improve. The reasons are simple: you really have no idea what your weaknesses are, because nobody has probed them... and you have no idea how to play into tough opponents, because you haven't faced one. Maybe one of the players you're with are capable of playing hard against you, and then you can both learn, but until you both start playing hard, neither of you learn.



Sorry, but you are incorrect.

Blinds posted: pot is 2.
Four people limp: pot is 6.
Person raises to 4: pot is 10.
Making a half-pot raise: you must bet 11.

Why? Remember, in that position, if you chose to call - that is, to raise by zero - you'd put up 4. The first four isn't part of a raise at all. So you need to put up 4 as a call, and then calculate the raise. Your 4 makes the pot 14; a half-pot raise is 7. Your call of 4 plus your raise of 7 is a total of 11.

We all seem to know that saying "I call your four and raise you 7" is an illegal string bet... but many of us seem to forget that although saying that is illegal, it is, in fact, the correct logical way to calculate the bets!

If you doubt that the answer of 11 is correct... assume all the limpers fold and it goes back around do the first raiser. You've made a total bet of 11, increasing the pot to 21. They already have 4 in front of them; to call, they need to put up 7 more. So they need to put up 7/21 of the pot - or 1/3. A 1/3 pot call. Isn't that what you'd face after a half-pot bet?

If that's still troubling, think of a simpler situation; no raises at all. Assume the pot was 14 pre-flop because of the action. After the flop, someone leads out with a half-pot bet of 7. The next person is deciding whether or not to call 7, given a pot of 21. That's a 1/3 pot call because of a 1/2 pot bet.

Making a half-pot raise need to put your opponent into that same calling situation.

Going back to the original example, what happens if your bet is 9? That's a call of 4 plus a raise of 5, and it increases the total pot from 10 to 19. Assume the limpers fold and it's back to that raiser. How much is it to call? They already have 4 in front of them, so it's 5 to call... and the pot is 19. They only need to pay about 26% of the pot to call. They're getting in cheap. And, in many cases, your weak raise may mean they are correct to call.

You don't make money at poker making bets which are correct for your opponent to call!

In general, I'll guess that you're already among the most aggressive bettors at the table. But even your betting is passive compared to what you think you're betting. As a consequence, the pots don't grow as they properly should in a no-limit game. As Rhodeman77 said,



Just so! If you and the other players are not betting and raising proper fractions of the pot, the pots will almost never grow big enough that all-in bets are correct, as all-in calls, or all-in raises, etc. But once you and a few others learn to properly bet according to the pot size, then you'll be playing no-limit poker.

One other fine point:



If the blind is 1 and the first raiser made it 4, they have raised by 3. (They have increased the bet by 3; in other words, they called 1 and raised 3.) Your minimum raise is another 3. So you could, if you wanted to, bet 7. (Calling four and raising it by another 3.)

Thank you for pointing out why I am struggling with figuring out what I am doing wrong. I need better opponents. That makes a lot of sense when you explained it.

Thank you for correcting my math. Looks like I am forgetting to add the raise to the pot before figuring out the raise amount.
 
Also, remember scared money is dead money. If you are afraid to lose it, don't play at those stakes. You have to remember when playing in a casino that you need to play the hand for what it is. Get your money in ahead, but if you lose, it happens. Don't make decisions based on what you could lose.. do the math and make the right play. Variance happens, and you have to understand it.
 
Thank you for pointing out why I am struggling with figuring out what I am doing wrong. I need better opponents. That makes a lot of sense when you explained it.

The question now is, do you look for better opponents? Or do you work on making your current opponents better?

I think the latter is more fun, as long as you're talking about friends in a nickel game or a two-bit game.

Then you can all build skills that apply in the casino at $1/$2, as long as (as @krafiticus points out) you have the stomach for 40 times the size/variance of your nickel game!
 
Also, remember scared money is dead money. If you are afraid to lose it, don't play at those stakes. You have to remember when playing in a casino that you need to play the hand for what it is. Get your money in ahead, but if you lose, it happens. Don't make decisions based on what you could lose.. do the math and make the right play. Variance happens, and you have to understand it.

There are a lot of great posts in this thread. This is one of them. If I sense someone in my game is playing scared. I do my best within reason to try and get involved in as many pots with as possible. You can almost always push them off non nut hands.
 
as @Mental Nomad said raising the level of your groups play will make you a better player. The group I am part of has a core group of 20+ players that are high level players, they study the game and play multiple times per week and it shows when we end up in Vegas.

Here is a link I posted about a few of the players in the group I'm part of and how well they did in the last few months at tournaments in Vegas

https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/my-friend-and-local-pro-made-another-deep-run-in-wsop.21122/

When I first joined the CPMG (Cleveland Poker Meetup Group) I knew I was better than all of my friends already but didn't known if that meant anything in the real casino world. Once I joined this group my game became much better over the years and I feel I can sit in any card room/casino and feel that I can win at the stakes I play.
 
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Its also good to know when you are the 7th best player out of 7 players. Lets just say that I didn't last very long at that table (actually, I only dropped 80, but it was a great time).

My stack with a glass of scotch (thanks for sharing @Payback and @ChaosRock .

Starting to the left of my stack is @inca911 @ChaosRock @Ronoh @bentax1978 @Payback @Ben Actually, I think I was the 8th best player at the table. The glass of scotch probably could make better decisions than I
 
Sometimes though, playing in a game with a murderer's row of a lineup is a great way to test yourself. You should try to do so when you don't have very meaningful money in play so that the lesson isn't too painful if you do go broke. I tried this in home games and at the casino playing 10/20 limit once in awhile and the experience can be well worth it. Just don't make a habit of it and try to play in softer games when you can!
 
Back when we actually played NLHE, we had a series of "learning games" where we played normal NLHE to the best of our ability, but anyone could table their hand and ask for feedback after the action was over. The biggest two leaks that we had were a) improper bet sizing and b) not betting thin for value. This type of format is helpful if everyone is reasonably experienced and knowledgeable, has casino experience playing, has read some books on NLHE cash game strategy, etc.
 
Back when we actually played NLHE, we had a series of "learning games" where we played normal NLHE to the best of our ability, but anyone could table their hand and ask for feedback after the action was over. The biggest two leaks that we had were a) improper bet sizing and b) not betting thin for value. This type of format is helpful if everyone is reasonably experienced and knowledgeable, has casino experience playing, has read some books on NLHE cash game strategy, etc.

I put together a small group to do pretty much the same thing for PLO before the casino opened here several years ago. We played 5c/10c and after each hand we would show our cards and discuss the hand. It definitely helped!
 
This is a 1/2 game where $12 raises pre fold everyone out but $9 pre gets callers?

Where is this game? Is it on Earth?
It is a .50/1 game and the max starting stack is 60 bucks. So yeah it is hard game to win alot in but it is a easy game to win 60 to 100 every time you go.
 
Also, remember scared money is dead money. If you are afraid to lose it, don't play at those stakes. You have to remember when playing in a casino that you need to play the hand for what it is. Get your money in ahead, but if you lose, it happens. Don't make decisions based on what you could lose.. do the math and make the right play. Variance happens, and you have to understand it.

I understand variance, I'm playing nickel blinds cause I'm broke! Things should change in a couple months.

I had a chance to play at the Kennel club at Daytona but decided against it because I knew I would be worried about losing $200 buy in for their lowest table. I could have spared the money but my mind was thinking about other things I should be doing with it.

I plan on building my bank roll until I can have 10 buy ins for the stakes I play at the house and two 100 bb buy ins for a casino/card room. So at this point $450.
 
Sometimes though, playing in a game with a murderer's row of a lineup is a great way to test yourself. You should try to do so when you don't have very meaningful money in play so that the lesson isn't too painful if you do go broke. I tried this in home games and at the casino playing 10/20 limit once in awhile and the experience can be well worth it. Just don't make a habit of it and try to play in softer games when you can!


I know a few people who have played in casinos and claimed to have done well, just have been able to match schedules yet. I would gladly spend a few $5 buy ins to test my game and find leaks! Beats $200 at a card room for $1/$2 poker.
 

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