That IS tricky. I'll have to give it some thought. But a yard of SSC is around $16, you need three. Rail material can be cheaper, anywhere from 5-15 a yard, and you need three. You'll also need foam. You might be able to get it under budget for materials, it's the BUILD part that I'm having trouble visualizing,
If you're serious, I have some samples of rail vinyls and SCC at home. You can swing by and grab them on one game night if you like.
I used the Brybelly Two Tone cloth and have nothing bad to say about it, but it's not a ton cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/section-two-...1488223407&sr=8-5&keywords=suited+speed+cloth
yourautotrim.com is probably the best source for vinyl and foam. You'll need surface foam as well, typically headliner or volara. If you need to preserve the fold in the table, there's not much point in doing a one piece rail foam or vinyl cut. I got away with a 54" square of rail foam for my folding topper by nesting the pieces before I cut them out (
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/folding-topper-with-rail.14256/). The vinyl pieces need much more area for stretching and stapling (2-2.5 yards). I'd strongly consider slide under cupholders if you are ok with them.
How bad is the bow at the hinge? Mine was coming apart, so I added glue in all the open gaps, replaced the hinge screws circled in blue with longer ones that went into the MDF and put a screw into each of the locations with the red arrows.
Step by step, this is how I might tackle it:
1. Remove the rail pieces (they look like machine screws into t-nuts, which is great).
2. Reinforce the hinge blocks to correct the bow, or just to prevent future damage (screws and maybe glue)
3. Strip and scrape the old green playing surface and foam (big PITA, in my experience)
4. Strip the vinyl off the 6 existing rail segments and number them and the table under them in case the holes aren't interchangable.
5. Use a bearing trim bit in a router to duplicate the rail pieces (which are 1/4" flimsy ply on my table) out of 3/8" ply or MDF. Push out the existing t-nuts if possible, use the existing holes as guides for the new pieces, and reuse the old nuts. use a roundover bit to ease the edges of the rail pieces (not at the joints). You could also lay out two new u-shaped rail pieces, rather than the existing six piece design.
6. Glue the foam to the table and trim it to shape (0.5" to 1" overlap under the rail, I'd guess).
7. Staple the SSC to the table, folding the cut edge under in the seam but leaving it where the rail covers things. It can go 1" past the foam, but avoid the screw holes for the rail.
8. Glue the foam to the new rail pieces with t-nuts.
9. Stretch and staple the vinyl over the rail pieces
10. Shuffle up and deal
The rail is rather tool heavy, unfortunately. The existing pieces are so light that I'd worry about reusing them for stretched vinyl (where you really want to pull as hard as you possibly can on it). What steps on that list are sounding the worst to you?