Folding Topper with Rail (1 Viewer)

atomiktoaster

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I had some requests to post a thread with pics of my folding topper with a modular rail. Here's the playing surface, completed in 2014:

IMG_20140414_070402_259.jpg

20160213_082649-min.jpg


@BGinGA @Ellasdaddy @BPTDirector
 
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Materials for the topper:
1 sheet of 1/4" plywood (I used sandeply from HD).
3 yds of headliner foam (got mine from Jo-ann's Fabric)
black Gorilla tape
a box of wide crown staples
3M spray adhesive (I used the 90, I think)
some black fabric ribbon or other soft material to cover the staples

Tools:
Router with straight bit, circle jig and long straight guide
Hand stapler (I like air staples for full tables, but the thin ply might not stand up to force)
Sharp knife and scissors
Optional, a circular saw or table saw can make the straight cuts a little quicker
Optional clamps for holding the SSC while you staple

High level instructions:
1. Cut the shape of the topper out of the plywood like you would a regular table, router (and saw). My dimensions were 40"x92, which I probably wouldn't repeat.
2. Cut the hinge pieces so that it can fold in thirds. You need one that's 1/2" wide and one that's 1" wide
3. Construct the hinges (there used to be a BGinGA drawing of this design):
a. Lay all 5 pieces down push them together flush.
b. Tape across both of the hinge areas with long pieces of tape. This side will be covered with the foam and SSC
c. Carefully fold each of the 4 hinge areas completely over 180 degrees and cover with a long piece of tape, wrapping around both corners. When unfolded for play, these pieces of tape will be pinched in the gaps
4. Cover the hinged base with one piece of headliner foam attached with spray glue, fabric side up, and trim
5. Pull the SSC tight around the topper and staple along the edges into the underside. I think it works best to start at the middle, do both sides to ensure good tension and work toward the ends. Folding over around the curve is a bit of trial and error. I didn't glue down the SSC on mine.
6. Cut the SSC where the hinges are to allow the table to fold and trim the excess
7. Glue on ribbon to cover the staples.

Materials for the Rail:
1 sheet 3/4" plywood (I used sandeply from HD).
1/2 sheet of 1" 65lb foam from YAT (it was very tight on the foam margins, even with being able to arrange the pieces as close as possible).
3 yds whisper vinyl (used all of it, despite being enough for a one piece rail. Wrapping the ends under takes a lot of extra.)
3M Spray adhesive
1/2" narrow crown staples
24 5/16" t-nuts (YAT)
24 5/16" x 1" truss head machine screws

Tools:
Router with 1/2" straight bit, flush trim bit, 1/4" roundover bit, circle jig and long straight edge.
Jigsaw
Drill press and forstner bit
Air stapler
Electric knife (wish I had bought one, but I hacked at the foam with scissors and a long razor blade)
Hole punch bits for cutting through the SSC and table foam (http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-hollow-punch-set-67030.html they work, but dull quickly)
Scissors
Chalk/other marking tool
Helpful spouse / other person. Wrapping the rail really requires you to sit on it and pull super hard while a second person staples.

General Instructions:

1. Cut one rail piece with the router and guide tools (I did 21" x 46.5", for a final dimension of 42" x 93")
2. Rough cut the other three pieces with a jig saw and flush trim them to identical dimensions.
3. Lay out all 4 pieces under the topper, and mark the overlap. Be sure to leave a 1/4" gap for the vinyl to fold over between pieces.
4. Drill holes through stacked rail pieces so the t-nuts will line up exactly.
5. Move the drilled pieces back over the topper and mark the hole locations with chalk or whatever.
6. Hole punch through the SCC and then drill through the topper material.
7. Counterbore the rail pieces for the t-nuts and round over the inner/outer edges
8. Set the t-nuts and glue if desired
9. Try to get the rail screwed on to the topper, using a drill/file to massage the hole locations
10. Glue the rail pieces to the foam, and trim, leaving about 1.5" of foam overhanging the inside and outside.
11. Wrap and staple the vinyl, starting at the outside, then the inside, then folding over each end. Sit on the rail to compress the foam and pull as hard as you can.
12. Screw the rail pieces on, shuffle and deal.

Lots of details left out, but in most cases general table building advice applies. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to help out.
 
@atomiktoaster i might build just about this exact thing. How's it holding up? Anything you would change?

I'm going for 40x84 ish. Going to place on top of a 30x72 folding table. Considering some kind of brace on the underside to kinda lock it in place. Maybe slightly thicker plywood so I don't have to worry about cracking the overhang.

Any thoughts advice greatly appreciated.
 
It's been good, but hasn't seen a ton of use. One of the best things to do for stiffness would be to add rails. You could also move up to 3/8" ply, but the portability might suffer. The problem you'll run into before cracking is lifting the center of the table by leaning on an edge. At some point, you should just build a folding table rather than a topper.
 
That's an interesting point about it lifting up. Maybe the brace needs to hook into the folding table To hold it down. Right now it’s planned to be as small as possible and still completely cover the table below.
 
Here's a recreation of the drawing for the tape hinges used in the table. @BGinGA might have been the original designer of the post on CT, but memory fails me. As pictured above you can't wrap the cloth around the bottom of the hinges, since it can't stretch to allow folding.


Hinge.JPG
 
I also apply tape directly to the wood (or MDF) pieces separately, so that the tape hinge itself is adhering to a taped surface and not wood. It holds up long-term much better.
 

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