Materials for the topper:
1 sheet of 1/4" plywood (I used sandeply from HD).
3 yds of headliner foam (got mine from Jo-ann's Fabric)
black Gorilla tape
a box of wide crown staples
3M spray adhesive (I used the 90, I think)
some black fabric ribbon or other soft material to cover the staples
Tools:
Router with straight bit, circle jig and long straight guide
Hand stapler (I like air staples for full tables, but the thin ply might not stand up to force)
Sharp knife and scissors
Optional, a circular saw or table saw can make the straight cuts a little quicker
Optional clamps for holding the SSC while you staple
High level instructions:
1. Cut the shape of the topper out of the plywood like you would a regular table, router (and saw). My dimensions were 40"x92, which I probably wouldn't repeat.
2. Cut the hinge pieces so that it can fold in thirds. You need one that's 1/2" wide and one that's 1" wide
3. Construct the hinges (there used to be a BGinGA drawing of this design):
a. Lay all 5 pieces down push them together flush.
b. Tape across both of the hinge areas with long pieces of tape. This side will be covered with the foam and SSC
c. Carefully fold each of the 4 hinge areas completely over 180 degrees and cover with a long piece of tape, wrapping around both corners. When unfolded for play, these pieces of tape will be pinched in the gaps
4. Cover the hinged base with one piece of headliner foam attached with spray glue, fabric side up, and trim
5. Pull the SSC tight around the topper and staple along the edges into the underside. I think it works best to start at the middle, do both sides to ensure good tension and work toward the ends. Folding over around the curve is a bit of trial and error. I didn't glue down the SSC on mine.
6. Cut the SSC where the hinges are to allow the table to fold and trim the excess
7. Glue on ribbon to cover the staples.
Materials for the Rail:
1 sheet 3/4" plywood (I used sandeply from HD).
1/2 sheet of 1" 65lb foam from YAT (it was very tight on the foam margins, even with being able to arrange the pieces as close as possible).
3 yds whisper vinyl (used all of it, despite being enough for a one piece rail. Wrapping the ends under takes a lot of extra.)
3M Spray adhesive
1/2" narrow crown staples
24 5/16" t-nuts (YAT)
24 5/16" x 1" truss head machine screws
Tools:
Router with 1/2" straight bit, flush trim bit, 1/4" roundover bit, circle jig and long straight edge.
Jigsaw
Drill press and forstner bit
Air stapler
Electric knife (wish I had bought one, but I hacked at the foam with scissors and a long razor blade)
Hole punch bits for cutting through the SSC and table foam (
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-piece-hollow-punch-set-67030.html they work, but dull quickly)
Scissors
Chalk/other marking tool
Helpful spouse / other person. Wrapping the rail really requires you to sit on it and pull super hard while a second person staples.
General Instructions:
1. Cut one rail piece with the router and guide tools (I did 21" x 46.5", for a final dimension of 42" x 93")
2. Rough cut the other three pieces with a jig saw and flush trim them to identical dimensions.
3. Lay out all 4 pieces under the topper, and mark the overlap. Be sure to leave a 1/4" gap for the vinyl to fold over between pieces.
4. Drill holes through stacked rail pieces so the t-nuts will line up exactly.
5. Move the drilled pieces back over the topper and mark the hole locations with chalk or whatever.
6. Hole punch through the SCC and then drill through the topper material.
7. Counterbore the rail pieces for the t-nuts and round over the inner/outer edges
8. Set the t-nuts and glue if desired
9. Try to get the rail screwed on to the topper, using a drill/file to massage the hole locations
10. Glue the rail pieces to the foam, and trim, leaving about 1.5" of foam overhanging the inside and outside.
11. Wrap and staple the vinyl, starting at the outside, then the inside, then folding over each end. Sit on the rail to compress the foam and pull as hard as you can.
12. Screw the rail pieces on, shuffle and deal.
Lots of details left out, but in most cases general table building advice applies. Let me know if you have any questions. I'm happy to help out.