First table build (1 Viewer)

[IaHawk]

Technically, it's not my first table build but it will be the first one I've built for myself. The others were very basic and were done 10+ years ago. This will be my 1st attempt at building one with a rail as well, not doing cup holders. Right now, I'm using a hand me down poker table my buddy gave me and it doesn't have much time left on this earth...it's had a good life.

Build list:
Speed Cloth: YAT...Burgundy, Navy or Black....leaning towards Burgundy https://www.yourautotrim.com/hcasucl.html
Vinyl: Whisper Vinyl from Joanns - http://www.joann.com/whisper-vinyl/prd23670.html#q=whisper+vinyl&start=1
Table Foam: 1/4" High Density foam - https://www.yourautotrim.com/1thfopahidef.html
Rail Foam: 1" HD foam - https://www.yourautotrim.com/1x54x1060hdr.html
Plywood: 3/4 inch for playing surface and 5/8 for rail. I'll pick that up from Lowes or Home Depot.
Spray Adhesive: Haven't looked this up yet.
Legs: I haven't decided on these yet. Open for any recommendations, must be folding.

Tools: I should be set on tools, the only thing I do not have is a router but I do have a jig saw...should be fine there. I have an air compressor with a staple gun, so that will come in handy for the vinyl. I saw one post recommend getting an electric blade/knife to trim the excess foam on the table...not sure if I'll do that or not.

Things I'm still trying to figure out:
- Rail size...learning towards 5"
- Speed cloth - anyone compared suited and mini-suited speed cloth? mini suited is about $5 more a yard. Wasnt sure what the "norm" was.
- Dimensions - the regular game is 8 guys but would like to fit 9 comfortably...and 10 uncomfortably. Was thinking 92x42 or 92x44.
- attaching the rail - I've seen a few people use/recommend t bolts. Still not sure on that process...but I'll figure it out.

I've already had some great input from @Trihonda but if anyone else has some advice, pointers, etc...feel free to share.

I'll do my best to document the build.

 

[Gameface]

I think 3M 77 spray adhesive is the universal choice here.

 

[Trihonda]

If you have the ability to borrow a router, it works supremely better at the cuts, especially the round ones (cleaner edges). The other benefits are it leaves a 1/4” channel, which allows for the play surface fabric to get wrapped around (in between), and allows for some wiggle room. That 1/4” is just about perfect in my experience.

Also, the electric knife makes the foam cutting so much cleaner and easier. They can be had cheap new, but I found mine at a garage sale for $1. The cuts are cleaner and I’d argue this will help with upholstery. Having rough foam edges has some potential to show through the vinyl or produce inconsistent results on the inside wrap...

 

[brains613]

Mini suited speed cloth from YAT is really nice. I'd suggest ordering sample rings if you're considering the mini, the difference is striking. (In a good way.)

 

[Poker Zombie]

I built my table without a router (using a jigsaw) and you can't tell. The inconsistencies are lost when the rail is padded as the foam compresses/expands to hide my crafting ability of a 6-year old.

Unless space is a concern, I'd just make the table the full 4'. I built one (8 player) table that is narrower, but it actually makes dealing harder. People not paying attention get their hands in the way more often causing cards to flip, and pulling a large pot blocks a greater percentage of the table. Also, you are making cuts in the plywood that you don't need to do if it is 4' wide.

I know you say "must be folding" regarding the legs, but have you considered detachable legs? I use legs similar to these. Very easy to take on and off, and they look nicer than folding legs. For one of my tables, I found a couple Ikea tables on Craigslist, removed the legs (and the leg base) and just tossed the table top. 8 legs for $40 is tough to beat, and they look nice.

 

[doughboy63]

Bought these legs for a 10 man table. They have 37 in spread if you go 48” wide too.

https://www.casinosupply.com/products/heavy-duty-folding-poker-table-legs-31-inch-wide-pkg-3

Solid as a rock. Did have to cut the feet down some to get the height right, but extremely study. Do not buy the $25 folding legs that Home Depot carries. Super wobbly.

 

[chipjoker]

Just FYI, this vinyl is great. I picked up 6 yards of this because it was a good deal, then when I got it, I could not believe how great this is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042TOBM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Legs, I look on graigslist and offerup for tables, I bout a table for $30 and the legs are great (standard legs). You can look for folding table and get the legs for 5-20 bucks. I have T-nuts in the table so I can remove the legs if I need to (claw foot legs).

3M 77 Adhesive
Use staples, not nails.

T-nuts in the top of the rail, through hole in the table (Counter bore the t-nut, then drill the hole through both pieces at the same time).

My table is 96x44 5" rail.

Good luck with the build.

T-nut assembly..

 

[doughboy63]

If you are tight on space, I just made a ten man 84.5x42, rail foam adds about 1/2” on all dimensions. Finished circumference is almost 220” exactly, 22” per player ten man. Comfortable for ten luxurious for 9.

The small width is sometimes an issue when pitching cards for guys on the end but width was an issue for my space.

 

[Gameface]

The two tables I built have a removable rail, as in it just sits on the table and can be removed without any bolts, screws or whatever else having to be taken off.

I see many advocate for the use of T-nuts, but I've never had a problem without them and it adds a considerable amount of work.

Has anyone done both? If so, do you have strong opinions on the T-nut thing?

 

[Trihonda]

T-nuts are easy. Adds stability. Removable. Drill holes, insert bolts/nutz. Done

 

[Gameface]

T-nuts are easy. Adds stability. Removable. Drill holes, insert bolts/nutz. Done

Not saying it's hard, but the alternative is to not do that at all, which is like 100% easier. I've never had stability problems.

I'm going to be replacing the table cloth and rail vinyl on at least one of my tables in a month or two. I could add T-nuts, but not sure there's any reason to.

 

[Poker Zombie]

I have one play-surface that drops in, replaced with corkboard when not used for poker, as it doubles as a sewing table. It has T-bolt tie-downs.

I haven't used the tie downs since the first game. Gravity + friction is a wonderful thing.

I've also crawled under casino tables (f**king gross, do not recommend ). They just drop the rail on as well, no tie-downs.