Fat Tire Lighted Rail Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[BGinGA]

Personally, I'd place the leg center-point half-way distance between the table edge and the table center-line. In other words, each leg is centered on it's half of the table. A little closer to the edge wouldn't hurt any, but I wouldn't go more than an inch outboard from the above measurement.

 

[Zathras]

I'd center them over the arc centers, or close to it. Where you have them in your pic looks good. The stretcher diagram in the next post which I think comes from Adams showing 24" separation seems way too close imo, for a full sized poker table.

 

[Trihonda]

Well. It's done. Here's the final spread. Attached via t-nuts/bolts with some gorilla glue. If I had to do it all over again, I might go 1" further towards the outter edge. It's about equa-distance from the center to the edge (as BG's post suggested), but it could be a tad wider? I think it'll be stable enough, but if I wanted to, now would be the time to re-position. I'd need new t-bolts though. Actually, the way it's set up, I could always remove the play surface (since I used t-nuts), and re-drill for the peds at a later date (if desired).

It's rock solid (leaning on the side), but when I lean on the ends, I get a little bend. However, this will probably be greatly reduced once the play surface and rail are bolted on.

 

[BGinGA]

Looks fine, and is allowing for plenty of leg room at the ends where under-the-table space is at a premium because of the extra feet involved. Another inch outwards wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's necessary.

 

[Trihonda]

Looks fine, and is allowing for plenty of leg room at the ends where under-the-table space is at a premium because of the extra feet involved. Another inch outwards wouldn't hurt but I don't think it's necessary.

Leg room was a consideration in my placement, and if you all don't think an extra inch is necessary, then I won't go to the trouble (unless the table exhibits unsteadiness down the road).

 

[BGinGA]

Might try heavily leaning on one of the ends now to see how much flex you have. Adding the rail later will provide extra rigidity.

 

[Trihonda]

Fitted the cloth to the play surface to test sizing. Very pleased.

Also. Once the play surface is bolted down that will add to the rigidity

.

 

[Trihonda]

Another decision to make is how to route the LED power cable. I'm not exactly sure if I want the white transmitter unit behind the white mesh (it would fit). Or if I want to mount under the table as suggested by the builder. He indicates that if you ever wish to remove the legs then you would need to disassemble the rail to reach the White transmitter. My concern with mounting the transmitter under the table would be someone's knees hitting it.

 

[Trihonda]

Painting the pedis and bottom of the table. I plan on two coats of flat black, followed by a coat of poly acrylic in semigloss.

 

[Tommy]

. My concern with mounting the transmitter under the table would be someone's knees hitting it.

Mine is inside the rail. There is a small hole under the table to plug the power cable in.

 

[Trihonda]

Mine is inside the rail. There is a small hole under the table to plug the power cable in.

Do you need to remove the rail (to unplug the wiring) if you are removing the legs (for transport)?

 

[Tommy]

Nope. The hole is just a few inches from the edge. Everything is self contained inside the rail. I can take a pic when I get home in about an hour.

 

[Tommy]

Where do you plan to put the IR?

 

[Tommy]

 

[BukNaked36]

Tables looking great! Really like the fat tire theme - you might have to get some matching chips made up.

 

[Tommy]

Builder sent me a pic from the last table he did.

 

[Trihonda]

Pedestal and base painted (first coat). Channel routed for power cable. Next steps, second coat of black, then poly.

I'm leaning towards placing the white RF unit in the rail and running power out the bottom of the rail, under the base plate, to the pedestal, then tack it in place. I can house the transformer in the pedestal and run a power cord out the base. I'm running the power out the end of the table, which rarely sees use. Then I'll buy some sort of floor cord guard of some sort?

 

[Trihonda]

Builder sent me a pic from the last table he did.

View attachment 11986

My rail isn't set up to make this possible. However I might be able to cut a hole in the rail bottom and install the rf right next to it? Or even ramp the opening and install the RF at an angle?

 

[Trihonda]

Second coat of black applied. And tho it's not dry I can already tell I'll be sanding the top of the base/foot board and doing a third coat. The first coat was actually smoother. The paint was drying too quickly as I was pointing them. And I didn't paint the sections in the same order as the first coat. I only need to sand and redo the one section so I expect decent results. Then I'll let it cure overnight and poly tomorrow. Then onto routing the led cables and installing the leds.

One ped is marginally acceptable. Second isnt close. (granted these are close ups, and it doesn't actually look that bad at first glance)

 

[Trihonda]

Final paint coat looks good. Waiting to poly. Also tossed on one of the steel accent pieces to see how it will look. Excited.

 

[Zathras]

Looking really good!

 

[Payback]

Love the accent piece. Keep up the good work. Looks amazing. Can't wait to play on it at MTTD3

 

[Trihonda]

Seriously wishing I would've just paid the builder to pre-finish the pedestals. It would've saved me a ton of heartache. I'm having a difficult time getting the polyacrylic to finish nicely

 

[Mental Nomad]

EDITED...

I'm late to the game here, but I like where you have the pedestals and think it's good to leave a little extra space outside for the crowded end players - also lets the end players belly-up to the rail to reach pots and cards.

 

[Trihonda]

Gave up on trying to finish the peds. Turned them over to my cousins husband who plays my game from time to time. He works for a furniture cabinet company and has a coworker that is going to spray paint and poly them up nice. Here's my first attempt at a selfie with the peds in back of my van

 

[Bloody Marvelous]

Gave up on trying to finish the peds. Turned them over to my cousins husband who plays my game from time to time. He works for a furniture cabinet company and has a coworker that is going to spray paint and poly them up nice. Here's my first attempt at a selfie with the peds in back of my van

View attachment 12150

Love that look of defeat on your face

 

[NiceShot]

Gave up on trying to finish the peds. Turned them over to my cousins husband who plays my game from time to time. He works for a furniture cabinet company and has a coworker that is going to spray paint and poly them up nice. Here's my first attempt at a selfie with the peds in back of my van

View attachment 12150

The water based stuff can be annoying and I have had best results in multiple thin coats.

I prefer oil based even though it is harder to clean up because it doesn't leave the white marks if you accidentally drip or lay it on too thick. On some pieces however depending on the color you are sealing there can be yellowing over time.

Luckily you have connections with an experienced cabinet maker with the right tools ftw.

 

[Mental Nomad]

Gave up on trying to finish the peds. Turned them over to my cousins husband...

There's nothing wrong with knowing when you need help. The right tools, the right materials, the right experience... the right result.

 

[abby99]

A wise decision. You want the best result, and it doesn't matter how you get there.

BTW, I hope you were stopped at a light when you took your selfie.

 

[Trihonda]

A wise decision. You want the best result, and it doesn't matter how you get there.

BTW, I hope you were stopped at a light when you took your selfie.

I got skillz. Ha. Also it's only costing me some beer. Price hard to argue with.