Edge spots on CM Tina's, do we get to choose? (1 Viewer)

tooth_doc

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I have a quick question on the next GB. When we get to the point on picking chips, do we get to choose edge pots/stripes? Or is that already set by TINA?
I'm getting artwork done and I'm SUPER excited to jump on the next GB
Thanks in advance.
 
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I work backwards from the length of the rolling edge. If I have 4 spots and they all have the same width, I subtract that from the total width of the edge. The remainder divided by 4 is the space between.
In Adobe Illustrator you can have it show you how long your curve is from point to point. Very helpful.
 
To be clear, since these are ceramic chips, you need to design the whole thing— edge to edge, including the fake edge spots if you want them. It sounds like you’re working with a designer; you might want to have a conversation about whether they’re designing you an inlay or a whole chip. If I understand correctly, you can’t go to Tina with just an inlay and request spots.
 
To be clear, since these are ceramic chips, you need to design the whole thing— edge to edge, including the fake edge spots if you want them. It sounds like you’re working with a designer; you might want to have a conversation about whether they’re designing you an inlay or a whole chip. If I understand correctly, you can’t go to Tina with just an inlay and request spots.
Cool,
I am working w/ a guy. Looking at Tina's CM w/ inlay. (not ceramic). I played around w/ Paulsons chip creator. Kind a fun.
 
The way that I always do edge spots on ceramic chips is creating the face artwork first and then I move to the edge spots. At first I had a really hard time, but I finally seem to have figured it out. I tend to stick to more simple edge spot patterns that wouldn't take long to get right. Let's say you have 6 sets of 2 (bear claw) type spots on the face. You'd then want to have those same type of stripes on the edge, space them equally apart so they go equally across that edge file, if that's how you have it setup (that's how I have it) and then change the colors as you'd like.

It takes some time to figure it out, but once you got it down you should be able to do anything!
 
By my calculation, a 39 mm diameter chip has a circumference of 122.5 mm (circumf = 2 x pi x r, or 2 x 3.14 x 19.5). So that’s your rolling edge length when designing it.

A 43 mm chip would have a 135 mm long rolling edge design.

@Colquhoun and @Okku , once you create your rolling edge with spots:

1) Does Tina automatically line them up with the face spots?

2) I’ve heard it’s best to not have the printing start/stop right on the beginning of an edge spot… better to do that in the space between the spots in case of a slight “over-run” during printing… do you agree?

3) What is the thickness (in mm) of the cards mold chip?…. and are “no mold” chips the same?
 
Looking at Tina's CM w/ inlay. (not ceramic).

I played around w/ Paulsons chip creator.
Not sure what you mean by this ^. To be clear:

All of the Tina chips are ceramic. Their plain mold chips are ceramic, full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge. Their card mold chips are ceramics, also full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge.

There is no separate inlay or label -- the card mold chip is merely designed with debossed areas to ~look~ like it has an inlay if using appropriate design trickery.

But it is not an actual inlay or label -- the entire design is totally printed on the entire ceramic chip face in a single step.
 
By my calculation, a 39 mm diameter chip has a circumference of 122.5 mm (circumf = 2 x pi x r, or 2 x 3.14 x 19.5). So that’s your rolling edge length when designing it.

A 43 mm chip would have a 135 mm long rolling edge design.

@Colquhoun and @Okku , once you create your rolling edge with spots:

1) Does Tina automatically line them up with the face spots?

2) I’ve heard it’s best to not have the printing start/stop right on the beginning of an edge spot… better to do that in the space between the spots in case of a slight “over-run” during printing… do you agree?

3) What is the thickness (in mm) of the cards mold chip?…. and are “no mold” chips the same?
Yes, those circumference are correct.
I always design so that the beginning (or seam) of the rolling edge is the very top, the 12 o’clock position. The edge of an edgespot would never fall on that position. You’re either splitting an edgespot in half, or equally between spots when you set it at the 12 o’clock position.
 
Theoretically, you want that seam line to be at tbe edge of a spot so that it is less noticeable. It's much more of a visible distraction when splitting a spot or in the middle of a solid color stretch.
 
Theoretically, you want that seam line to be at tbe edge of a spot so that it is less noticeable. It's much more of a visible distraction when splitting a spot or in the middle of a solid color stretch.
I understand that theory...but I think putting the seam at the edge of a spot may make the seam more prominent.
Of the CM samples I have, the seam is very subtle. It's a very thin line, which might be ok if your edgespot was squared off, but if doing a rolling edge with clay-like spots, it might produce undesirable results.
9FDCE97A-085A-4EFD-A700-312119A46638.jpeg
 
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I have a quick question on the next GB. When we get to the point on picking chips, do we get to choose edge pots/stripes? Or is that already set by TINA?
I'm getting artwork done and I'm SUPER excited to jump on the next GB
Thanks in advance.
NO
You can only have ONE LINE and it will be SQUIGGLY!!!
 
I understand that theory...but I think putting the seam at the edge of a spot may make the seam more prominent.
Of the CM samples I have, the seam is very subtle. It's a very thin line, which might be ok if your edgespot was squared off, but if doing a rolling edge with clay-like spots, it might produce undesirable results.
View attachment 1050127
Great info and visuals!! Very helpful.
 
I'd also recommend making the edgespots on the faces and rolling edges slightly wavy and not straight. It will help when the face and the edge arent perfectly aligned (which is inevitable), as the small variation will be less noticeable. Like clay spots:
rolling edge closeup.jpg
 
I understand that theory...but I think putting the seam at the edge of a spot may make the seam more prominent.
Of the CM samples I have, the seam is very subtle. It's a very thin line, which might be ok if your edgespot was squared off, but if doing a rolling edge with clay-like spots, it might produce undesirable results.
View attachment 1050127
Yes, you'd want a straight vertical line border, such as found with BJ/B&G style spots. Probably not gonna find that on a chip with well-designed (i.e., irregular) clay-style spots.

Placing the seam in/on a darker color (even splitting a dark spot) will make it less noticeable, too.
 
Not sure what you mean by this ^. To be clear:

All of the Tina chips are ceramic. Their plain mold chips are ceramic, full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge. Their card mold chips are ceramics, also full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge.

There is no separate inlay or label -- the card mold chip is merely designed with debossed areas to ~look~ like it has an inlay if using appropriate design trickery.

But it is not an actual inlay or label -- the entire design is totally printed on the entire ceramic chip face in a single step.
AHAH....I was under the impression that they could be printed ceramic or in the style of the old china clays. Good info. Thanks for setting me str8. Now I have to spend all day researching PCR..instead of just half the day. Thanks again for the info.
Happy New Year
Charlie
 
Not sure what you mean by this ^. To be clear:

All of the Tina chips are ceramic. Their plain mold chips are ceramic, full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge. Their card mold chips are ceramics, also full-face printed on both sides and printed on the rolling edge.

There is no separate inlay or label -- the card mold chip is merely designed with debossed areas to ~look~ like it has an inlay if using appropriate design trickery.

But it is not an actual inlay or label -- the entire design is totally printed on the entire ceramic chip face in a single step.
He may be referring to the hybrids.
 
He may be referring to the hybrids.
I have been looking at the recent GB. The CM 'look' like clays. They definitely don't look ceramic. But I am a total newbie. Off to do more homework. But this is a fun kind of homework.
 
I have been looking at the recent GB. The CM 'look' like clays. They definitely don't look ceramic. But I am a total newbie. Off to do more homework. But this is a fun kind of homework.
They do look like ceramic to the more trained eye. They definitely feel ceramic, but the mold is a good option for replicating the look of clay chips. They are good, not great chips, even for ceramics, but they are clearly a great value for fully custom chips.

"Hybrids" just refer to a ceramic chip with a recessed center are for a sticker label (not an inlay--there is a difference).

You really should get your hand on a stack of actual clay chips, whether Paulson or CPC. But fair warning, it could lead to an expensive obsession. :)
 
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They do look like ceramic to the more trained eye. They definitely feel ceramic, but the mold is a good option for replicating the look of clay chips. They are good, not great chips, even for ceramics, but they are clearly a great value for fully custom chips.

"Hybrids" just refer to a ceramic chip with a recessed center are for a sticker label (not an inlay--there is a difference).

You really should get your hand on a stack of actual clay chips, whether Paulson or CPC. But fair warning, it could lead to an expensive obsession. :)
Oh I know it. I have some Paulson samples from years ago. Maybe 4 or 5. SOOOOOO nice. I have a full set of PGI private cardroom that is getting a little old. Some chips are breaking. (rough players tho). I've looked at the CPC site. That could be dangerous. Are there ever any GB with a clay or china clay type chip. I do have some samples on the way for tinas chip. Excited to get my hands on them.
 
Are there ever any GB with a clay or china clay type chip.
CPC doesn't offer quantity discounts, so generally speaking, a group buy for their clay chips makes little sense. Only if a group of folks were wanting to share the cost of new hot-stamp dies does it make sense.

There have been past group buys for china clays, but none recently.
 
CPC doesn't offer quantity discounts, so generally speaking, a group buy for their clay chips makes little sense. Only if a group of folks were wanting to share the cost of new hot-stamp dies does it make sense.

There have been past group buys for china clays, but none recently.
Thanks for all the info. You are definitely helping wade thru this GB thing. The bad thing is I have spent almost all of my vacation on PCF.... The rabbit hole is real.
 
They do look like ceramic to the more trained eye. They definitely feel ceramic, but the mold is a good option for replicating the look of clay chips. They are good, not great chips, even for ceramics, but they are clearly a great value for fully custom chips.

"Hybrids" just refer to a ceramic chip with a recessed center are for a sticker label (not an inlay--there is a difference).

You really should get your hand on a stack of actual clay chips, whether Paulson or CPC. But fair warning, it could lead to an expensive obsession. :)
What are your reasons for referring to them as "good, not great chips, even for ceramics?" So far all I've read is that some people prefer Sunfly chips over them and others prefer these over Sunfly. I'm just curious about your opinion.
 
What are your reasons for referring to them as "good, not great chips, even for ceramics?" So far all I've read is that some people prefer Sunfly chips over them and others prefer these over Sunfly. I'm just curious about your opinion.
The main downside about them is that there is a significant number of spinners. I’d say 10% of mine. It’s not horrible, but I’d prefer they stack better. I’ve never handled the Sunfly version, but by all accounts they stack like bricks.

However, huge advantage to the Tina version for colors. The colors can be really vibrant. Sunfly offers a limited palette, but that also insures color consistency from batch to batch.

Also worth considering is the fact that the Tina CM’s are half the price of Sunflys.
 

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