Edge Spots : Function vs. Aesthetic (1 Viewer)

Trihonda makes a great point. If you like the design, and you want the same basic design for both, one other thing you could do is use the same color labels for one (cash for example), and a different color or colors for tournament chips. Then even if you used the same values, the chips are easily distinguishable.
 
Your set is quite dark also
... team colours tend to be quite vibrant, whereas CPC colours tend to be a little dull (although the dayglo colours have been vastly improved over the years).

Yes I definitely imagine some of the base colors changing slightly once I receive the sample chips... Good to know that they can run a little dark.

For the $1 chip, I purposely went a little darker, because I wasn't sure how close the brighter blue would be to the $500 and $5000 chips. I do like the lighter color as well, and will design one and compare.

For the $5 chip, I like a more saturated red than the reds I typically see in sets and at casinos. I really want this chip to feel more unique than a typical $5.

The other colors from @BGinGA 's mockup are great and I have been using those, in addition to my original ideas, to finish up the set design. My $500 chip uses his exact colors, and I'm almost sure my $5000 chip will as well.
 
Welcome... but I’d strongly caution against having cash chips AND tourney chips in the same set UNLESS the chips will never ever cross over. If your cash game will never use $25 chips, then fine, but chip migration is a thing, and it’s sometimes intentional and sometimes by accident. Your T25 chips has very little value alone in the tourney, but if it makes its way into the cash game afterwards, you’re stuck... if you think you’ll ever use/need a bigger cash chip, then I’d also design a $20 chip.

I agree, and thanks for the feedback. Truth is, I'm not sure yet if I want to use this set primarily for cash or tourney (though I am leaning towards tourney), but regardless I will use a different set for the alternating game (i.e. this set for tourney, the other set for cash).

I am creating all the denominations to kinda help me determine which color combos I like better. I might order all 8 and use this set for both tourney and cash, but never on the same day.

If I were to create another denomination (like the $20)... would it be weird to instead create a $50 chip and use that as my small blind for the tourney (50/50 first level, 50/100 next level, etc)? I prefer $25 chips in cash games, but I know I am not normal lol!
 
Your set is quite dark also...

Another thing I remembered about the blue chips (and why it has taken me 5x the amount of time on the $1 chip than the other chips) is that my playing surface is BLUE. Uploaded 3 shades of blue starting with my darker blue ending with your lighter blue.... On a white background I prefer #2 in the middle, but on blue I can't tell.....

My brain is melting. Gonna take a day off and come back with fresh eyes.

d97c02ef-20b3-44b0-9e0c-d0a1172c7b98.png
 
Another thing I remembered about the blue chips (and why it has taken me 5x the amount of time on the $1 chip than the other chips) is that my playing surface is BLUE. Uploaded 3 shades of blue starting with my darker blue ending with your lighter blue.... On a white background I prefer #2 in the middle, but on blue I can't tell.....

My brain is melting. Gonna take a day off and come back with fresh eyes.

View attachment 154548

Make sure to get samples like others have said. The CPC blues particularly, to me, look very different live than they do on the computer screen. Same with the oranges.

Had a similar situation as in my customs I was trying to map to country flags, and basically every country flag has at least 2 of red, white, or blue. White was a big problem for me. In all cases though, I realized large edge spots were going to cause me problems due to the repeating colors, so I played around a bit and did things like have my quarter chip on a neutral charcoal background, with the country flag fully embodied in the edge spots, and others like my 5 show the horizontal stripes in the Cuban flag a bit.

Agree with the comments about most of the chips being dark. And almost all the CPC reds are pretty deep/dark, IMO.
 
Another thing I remembered about the blue chips (and why it has taken me 5x the amount of time on the $1 chip than the other chips) is that my playing surface is BLUE
Hey, get your priorities straight -- everybody knows that chips trump felt, and usually cost a whole bunch more, too. This isn't PokerFeltForum, ya know. :D

Get your chips totally sorted out, then design a new felt that really compliments and showcases them properly. That's how it's done. ;)
 
Hey, get your priorities straight -- everybody knows that chips trump felt, and usually cost a whole bunch more, too. This isn't PokerFeltForum, ya know. :D

Get your chips totally sorted out, then design a new felt that really compliments and showcases them properly. That's how it's done. ;)

ROTFL :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: - sir yes sir!

Now I really can't wait to receive the samples... How long do they usually take to ship?
 
Your chips look awesome! I really like the A-crest even more now!

Do you ever feel the retro blue is too close to the black $20's? Or do they stand apart when in a pot?

Thank you, and as for the A-mold, My last name starts with A and my grandfather (who built the music shack), His first name was Arthur.
I almost got the Scroll mold just for the oversize chip, then David (CPC) and I talked about the A-mold and BAM, A-mold it is..

NO, the blue dose not blend too much, at least know on complaints, in some ways I think I might have liked the peacock for the base better, but I have no issues.

1123162257a.jpg
 
Thank you, and as for the A-mold, My last name starts with A and my grandfather (who built the music shack), His first name was Arthur.
I almost got the Scroll mold just for the oversize chip, then David (CPC) and I talked about the A-mold and BAM, A-mold it is..

NO, the blue dose not blend too much, at least know on complaints, in some ways I think I might have liked the peacock for the base better, but I have no issues.

View attachment 154725
My first name starts with A and so did both of my grandfathers... crazy connection!

Thanks for the feedback. I can tell them apart in the photos, and you've helped me make a decision regarding my $1 chip!
 
This is what I've come up with for the whole set. I feel each chip looks unique and alike to the team colors, while the edge spots are unique enough to distinguish in a splashed pot. The only chips that I'm not sure about, in terms of confusing alike colors, is the $25 and $1000 chip using the same shade of yellow. After I receive my samples I'll be able to determine better if a different shade is possible...

29b3272f-9c31-4d0c-9729-3a67ef24871e.png
 
Love your inlays! I notice the bottom colour of the inlay is the base colour of the chip except for the 25c and $1000 chips... yes I realize the base colour of the 25c is black as per the CDT but your chip is predominantly orange. I think reversing the colours on those two inlays would not only make them more consistent with the set but also help them stand out more on their own.
 
I like it, overall. The 100 is quite dark, though. Any chance to move the ocean colour on that chip up on the grey scale a tiny bit, just to get more definition?

This is a good suggestion. I'll try this out... though I wonder if the contrast will remain with the gradient changing from gray to white...

Love your inlays! I notice the bottom colour of the inlay is the base colour of the chip except for the 25c and $1000 chips... yes I realize the base colour of the 25c is black as per the CDT but your chip is predominantly orange. I think reversing the colours on those two inlays would not only make them more consistent with the set but also help them stand out more on their own.

Thanks! For the $1000 chip, I tried a yellow color that did not gel with the overall look of the chip... I may need a different shade of yellow to work.

For both those chips, the lighter color transitioning to a darker sky didn't look right to me. The 25¢ chip would essentially transition to a black sky... closer to the $5 chip...

I'll try those out.
 
So I just played the Tangier's chip set from Old West this weekend, RIP Sal. One of my players is color blind and made the comment that he loved the chips not only because of the colors but also that edge pattern was completely different for each denomination. So I guess I did good picking those out. I guess that makes me in the functional camp.
20180212_151545.jpg
 
So I just played the Tangier's chip set from Old West this weekend, RIP Sal. One of my players is color blind and made the comment that he loved the chips not only because of the colors but also that edge pattern was completely different for each denomination. So I guess I did good picking those out. I guess that makes me in the functional camp.
View attachment 155225
Nice looking chips! Thanks for the feedback. Didn’t realize it would be as difficult as it is to design a functional chip set, but I’ve learned a lot and appreciate the input.
 
1) This is a great thread—a model of how an online community can help and inform each other.

2) Whenever I fiddle with custom designs (have not pulled the trigger yet) my preference is to have some of the outside portions of the inlay match up with the base chip color. I try to create a seamless transition from the body to the interior... rather than the inlay feeling like a totally separate element.

Others may feel the opposite—that they want their inlay or label to jump out from the background.

On these chips, it seems many of the interior colors are close to the base colors, and others are just in the ballpark. Are you shooting for a particular direction? To me, the main thing is some consistency in the plan.

3) Does CPC provide a key which allows you to color match the base to actual printed colors? I may have missed it on the site. I could use the eyedropper in Photoshop to pull the screen colors, but these are invariably different than samples, and print quality/saturation is an even bigger wildcard.
 
3) Does CPC provide a key which allows you to color match the base to actual printed colors? I may have missed it on the site. I could use the eyedropper in Photoshop to pull the screen colors, but these are invariably different than samples, and print quality/saturation is an even bigger wildcard.

David provided me with CMYK colors for better color matching to the actual clay color upon request. They will however do final tweaking on the supplied artwork to match it as closely as possible.

When I do my mockups etc. during early and middle design phases, I use the RGB colors I pulled straight from the online chip designer for approximation. These perfectly match the chip base colors in the rendered mockups (colors are off when you upload CMYK artwork) so it's absolutely sufficient for working on the design. Just need to swap them once when you are ready to submit the artwork files for production.
 
The $25 and $1,000 may have problems with dirty stacks if they are both in play at the same time.
 
Here’s two photos of some CPC A-mold samples. Some toddlers made off with two others, one of which I believe was navy blue, but FWIW... Note that this includes both weighted an unweighted chips (the unweighted ones generally being more vibrant colors).

As always, make allowances for the color vagaries of photography and screens...

39DBE4AA-E2E9-46A5-851F-5B6ABE6CDE51.jpeg
 
Last edited:
1) This is a great thread—a model of how an online community can help and inform each other.

2) Whenever I fiddle with custom designs (have not pulled the trigger yet) my preference is to have some of the outside portions of the inlay match up with the base chip color. I try to create a seamless transition from the body to the interior... rather than the inlay feeling like a totally separate element.

Others may feel the opposite—that they want their inlay or label to jump out from the background.

On these chips, it seems many of the interior colors are close to the base colors, and others are just in the ballpark. Are you shooting for a particular direction? To me, the main thing is some consistency in the plan.

3) Does CPC provide a key which allows you to color match the base to actual printed colors? I may have missed it on the site. I could use the eyedropper in Photoshop to pull the screen colors, but these are invariably different than samples, and print quality/saturation is an even bigger wildcard.

Hi Taghkanic,

I’ve pretty much abandoned this idea for a new cash and tournament set. My tourney set has been ordered and can be found in my signature.

My cash set is a work in progress: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/royal-class-cash-set.29455/#post-552826

To answer your question about inlay color, originally I was playing the color by ear, but currently I am matching the chip colors by importing the chip tool rendered files into photoshop, using the color picker to choose the chip color, and using that as the background or gradient color. This works best for approximating the chip color and viewing what an exact color match would look like in the artwork.
 

Create an account or login to comment

You must be a member in order to leave a comment

Create account

Create an account and join our community. It's easy!

Log in

Already have an account? Log in here.

Back
Top Bottom